Age estimate for baby redfoot

[eisea]

Hello,
I’ve had my baby redfoot for a month now and am wondering if its age is the same as what the breeder told me.
Breeder stated it hatched February; no specific hatch day, meaning it was about 3 months when I received it, so about 4 months old now. It’s not that I don’t believe the breeder, I’m just wanting independent evaluation. Attached are some pictures from the first few days after it arrived.
Also when exactly does a hatchling no longer classify as a hatchling?
Thanks

 

[mojo_1]

Hello,
I’ve had my baby redfoot for a month now and am wondering if its age is the same as what the breeder told me.
Breeder stated it hatched February; no specific hatch day, meaning it was about 3 months when I received it, so about 4 months old now. It’s not that I don’t believe the breeder, I’m just wanting independent evaluation. Attached are some pictures from the first few days after it arrived.
Also when exactly does a hatchling no longer classify as a hatchling?
Thanks

Is that little tort about 45 to 60 grams?
It really depends on size but I believe it's roughly 2 year then they're considered juveniles.

 

[mojo_1]

Can you please post some pictures of you torts enclosure. And the type of lights and heat sources,as well as temperatures and UV bulbs. We like to make sure you're on the right track to give that little cutie the best tort life possible.

 

[eisea]

Can you please post some pictures of you torts enclosure. And the type of lights and heat sources,as well as temperatures and UV bulbs. We like to make sure you're on the right track to give that little cutie the best tort life possible.

Thank you for the reply!
I have not weighed the little one, which I can do once I’m able later today. Same for pictures of the enclosure. I can tell you about the enclosure and lamps though. I didn’t want to weigh it as soon as I got it since I didn’t want to stress it even more. I’ve been trying not to handle it too much so that it can acclimate, it does explore the enclosure now so I think it’s acclimated to its new home.
I’m using a plastic tub that’s 12 tall x 32 long x 16 wide, substrate is peat moss with some sphagnum moss in different locations. Two 4 in terracotta saucers for water source and three different sized hides.
Lights I got the zoomed Tropical kit which has reptisun 5.0 UVB and a daylight uva. I also have a ceramic heat emitter.
Temps are around 80-90 during the day but at night 75. I’ve ordered an overhead heat panel and thermostat in hopes of keeping the temp higher at night.
Humidity is 85% fairly consistently.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Welcome to the forum! Your baby is adorable!! Not sure on exact age but they look a hatchling to me on the photos😊

I don’t suppose you mind giving us a little information on how you’re keeping your baby? I only ask because it’s great for us to know how new members are raising them and I’m always interested in seeing people’s red foot set ups😊
I’m adding a bit of information on the correct equipment because I know how easy it is for pet stores to have potentially sold you the wrong stuff when starting a new baby, not saying that’s the case here, just like to cover all bases in case it helps🙂

What kind of lighting is it you’re using? If using a light emitting heat source it should be an incandescent floodlight.

Always avoid anything labelled halogen or mercury vapour👍

What’s your uv situation? T5 fluorescent tube lights are what’s recommend, the trouble with the compact/coil uv bulbs is they don’t give out enough uv and can actually hurt the tortoises eyes. Uv can be on a separate 4hour timer from noon🙂

How’s their diet been? I’ve got a great list I could share with you if you need help with some ideas for variety! We definitely found it handy when coming up with a meal plan for ours🙂

Red foot’s don’t necessarily need a ‘basking area’ they aren’t typically a basking species coming from the forest floor(some do though, it depends on the individual) it’s better to have an overall ambient temperature range of 80-86(82-84 being optimal)temps shouldn’t go below 80 for one as young as yours both night&day.
Personally we rely on CHE’s(ceramic heat emitters) as our heat source 24/7, on thermostats, then have some ambient lighting on a 12hour timer, we’ve found it’s easier in keeping temps nice and stable so thought I’d mention it😊

Obviously your little one needs 80% humidity 24/7 to thrive, the right substrate and a good closed chamber set up goes a long way in making this work.
We personally keep our red foot on orchid bark, we focus on the under layer of the substrate being nice and damp to create the humidity, then the top layer being dry, though to stop that top layer getting too dry because you don’t want dusty substrate, we mix it now n then, which also helps gives a humidity boost without extra water🙂to maintain our humidity we simply pour some lukewarm water into the corners of the substrate, not loads! Just enough to dampen the whole under layer. You can keep an eye on your monitors&substrate to do the pours as and when needed, which in a good closed chamber set up, you shouldn’t have to do loads😊spraying the top only ever focuses on getting that top layer wet, which can then leave them more vulnerable to fungal infections.
Substrate wise never add any kind of moss, that’s something some stores think nothing of, but it can actually be pretty dangerous.

I’d love to see a pic of your set up if you didn’t mind?🥰

Hopefully you find some of this helpful, let me know if you fancy taking a look at the food list and if you’re interested in looking at any of the products I’ve mentioned, I can add those for you too😁

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Thank you for the reply!
I have not weighed the little one, which I can do once I’m able later today. Same for pictures of the enclosure. I can tell you about the enclosure and lamps though. I didn’t want to weigh it as soon as I got it since I didn’t want to stress it even more. I’ve been trying not to handle it too much so that it can acclimate, it does explore the enclosure now so I think it’s acclimated to its new home.
I’m using a plastic tub that’s 12 tall x 32 long x 16 wide, substrate is peat moss with some sphagnum moss in different locations. Two 4 in terracotta saucers for water source and three different sized hides.
Lights I got the zoomed Tropical kit which has reptisun 5.0 UVB and a daylight uva. I also have a ceramic heat emitter.
Temps are around 80-90 during the day but at night 75. I’ve ordered an overhead heat panel and thermostat in hopes of keeping the temp higher at night.
Humidity is 85% fairly consistently.

All moss definitely needs to be removed immediately, it can cause serious impaction if swallowed, many have tried eating it.

I’m not too sure that’s the right uv either, have you got a photo or a screenshot of the packaging?
I wouldn’t bother with the daylight bulb, to keep your temperatures consistent I’d recommend sticking with just the ceramics for you heat source, temps shouldn’t be going below 80 for a baby like yours, temperature can stay the same range of 80-86 24/7, 82-84 being optimal👍
Just add some ambient lighting on a 12 hour timer and create shady areas with hides and plants.
UV can be on a separate 4 hour timer from noon

 

[mojo_1]

Thank you for the reply!
I have not weighed the little one, which I can do once I’m able later today. Same for pictures of the enclosure. I can tell you about the enclosure and lamps though. I didn’t want to weigh it as soon as I got it since I didn’t want to stress it even more. I’ve been trying not to handle it too much so that it can acclimate, it does explore the enclosure now so I think it’s acclimated to its new home.
I’m using a plastic tub that’s 12 tall x 32 long x 16 wide, substrate is peat moss with some sphagnum moss in different locations. Two 4 in terracotta saucers for water source and three different sized hides.
Lights I got the zoomed Tropical kit which has reptisun 5.0 UVB and a daylight uva. I also have a ceramic heat emitter.
Temps are around 80-90 during the day but at night 75. I’ve ordered an overhead heat panel and thermostat in hopes of keeping the temp higher at night.
Humidity is 85% fairly consistently.

Ok. First thing is get rid of the moss. They can eat that and get impacted. The Uv light needs to be the long tube type T5. The daylight bulb can be a regular flood light bulb 5500K to 6500K. Keep temperature and around mid 80's at all times.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Here’s the right uv to be using, these are the brands recommended, knock offs are too unreliable

 

[eisea]

Yes I’ve also ordered the Arcadia to fix my lighting. You both mention removing the moss but didn’t offer an alternative.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Yes I’ve also ordered the Arcadia to fix my lighting. You both mention removing the moss but didn’t offer an alternative.

Apologies, I mentioned orchid bark on my first response but I should’ve expanded, be sure it’s fir not pine, you could also if you wish add coco coir underneath, provided it’s damp and firmly packed down by hand, but personally I think it’s messy and just the bark alone works fine, either the orchid bark(fir) or forest floor mulch😊👍
I talk about maintaining on my first reply🙂

 

[mojo_1]

Once a month it's good to weigh and measure the tort to track how they're doing and give them a good overall check. I use this to keep track of the progress. Another member on here came up with it. I made my own copy.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Once a month it's good to weigh and measure the tort to track how they're doing and give them a good overall check. I use this to keep track of the progress. Another member on here came up with it. I made my own copy. View attachment 372892View attachment 372893

Oh I love this!!🙌

 

[mojo_1]

Yes I’ve also ordered the Arcadia to fix my lighting. You both mention removing the moss but didn’t offer an alternative.

Yes Orchid bark or zoomed reptibark. Is best.

 

[eisea]

Forgive me if I’m not understanding. I do understand your concerns with the sphagnum. However you mention coco coir with the orchid bark, peat moss is the same consistency as coco coir so is there an issue with that or not?

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Forgive me if I’m not understanding. I do understand your concerns with the sphagnum. However you mention coco coir with the orchid bark, peat moss is the same consistency as coco coir so is there an issue with that or not?

Coco coir once damp and separated gives a soil like consistency(never use any kind of soil though, only coir) if they’re to accidentally swallow a little bit, it can pass through their system, whereas the moss can get stuck in their intestines.

Tbh though I’d recommend you just use the bark on its own, the coir was just an option to put under the bark, I think it’s too messy personally and if not kept on top of, it can get dusty which you don’t want

 

[mojo_1]

I use just the reptibark. Once setup correctly should hold humidity perfectly.

 

[eisea]

Coco coir once damp and separated gives a soil like consistency(never use any kind of soil though, only coir) if they’re to accidentally swallow a little bit, it can pass through their system, whereas the moss can get stuck in their intestines.

Tbh though I’d recommend you just use the bark on its own, the coir was just an option to put under the bark, I think it’s too messy personally and if not kept on top of, it can get dusty which you don’t want

I’m sorry I’m truly not understanding how the peat moss can get stuck but the coir cannot? Peat moss and coco coir are often used interchangeably in other areas. Peat moss is degraded and gives a soil like consistency as well, it’s used in commercial soils and also pressed like coco for plugs.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

I use just the reptibark. Once setup correctly should hold humidity perfectly.

We use the bark on its own, I think it works great too🙂

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

I’m sorry I’m truly not understanding how the peat moss can get stuck but the coir cannot? Peat moss and coco coir are often used interchangeably in other areas. Peat moss is degraded and gives a soil like consistency as well, it’s used in commercial soils and also pressed like coco for plugs.

Any kind of moss can cause impaction in tortoises, it’s suitable for other types of reptiles mixed with coir, but not tortoise. I do also think tortoise are more inclined to try eating moss than coir.
I don’t truly understand the science behind it myself on why the coir can pass but moss can’t, maybe someone like @Tom can give more answers to that. Either way though it’s not recommended to use, people who haven’t taken the warning on board have sometimes paid the price unfortunately😣some shops and breeders who don’t follow up to date care might tell you it’s not an issue, but it’s not a risk worth taking.

Bark is definitely the way to go🙂

 

[mojo_1]

I’m sorry I’m truly not understanding how the peat moss can get stuck but the coir cannot? Peat moss and coco coir are often used interchangeably in other areas. Peat moss is degraded and gives a soil like consistency as well, it’s used in commercial soils and also pressed like coco for plugs.

It's not that one's better the point is coco coir is supposed to stay under the bark. And is mess to deal with. Moss has a harder time going through the intestines. Coir is easier to break down and go through.