Bulb recommendation?

[JoeyA95]

My tort is in a tub that’s 3ft long and 1 1/2 feet wide and 8 inches tall. Would this be a good light?View attachment 222135

 

[Tom]

My tort is in a tub that’s 3ft long and 1 1/2 feet wide and 8 inches tall. Would this be a good light?View attachment 222135

It gives me an error message when I click your link.

Here is what I do for lighting:
I use four things for heating and lighting:
1. Basking bulb. I use regular 65 watt incandescent flood bulbs form the hardware store in a ceramic based fixture. I adjust the height up or down to get the correct temperature, and run it on a digital timer for about 12 hours a day.
2. A regular florescent tube in the 5000-6500K color range. A regular 10.0 UV tube will work for this too. I run this one on the same timer as the heat lamp.
3. Arcadia 12% HO tube in a reflector hood. I run this one for only 3-4 hours mid day on its on timer, and mount it about 20" above the tortoise.
4. Ceramic heating elelment set on a thermostat to keep ambient above 80 day and night.

What species and size tortoise are you asking about?

 

[JoeyA95]

It gives me an error message when I click your link.

Here is what I do for lighting:
I use four things for heating and lighting:
1. Basking bulb. I use regular 65 watt incandescent flood bulbs form the hardware store in a ceramic based fixture. I adjust the height up or down to get the correct temperature, and run it on a digital timer for about 12 hours a day.
2. A regular florescent tube in the 5000-6500K color range. A regular 10.0 UV tube will work for this too. I run this one on the same timer as the heat lamp.
3. Arcadia 12% HO tube in a reflector hood. I run this one for only 3-4 hours mid day on its on timer, and mount it about 20" above the tortoise.
4. Ceramic heating elelment set on a thermostat to keep ambient above 80 day and night.

What species and size tortoise are you asking about?

Wow that’s a lot! Is all that necessary? Leopard tortoise and she’s only a few inches long. Here is the light I was thinking about getting, hopefully it loads now. View attachment 222138

 

[JoeyA95]

Wow that’s a lot! Is all that necessary? Leopard tortoise and she’s only a few inches long. The light I wanted to get was an Exo terra solar glo all in one. So it provides heat and uv from one bulb. It’s a 125 watt.

 

[Yvonne G]

I do it differently from Tom. Depending upon where I'm using it, I use one of two types - a 100 watt Zoo Med Powersun OR a 22" fluorescent UVB tube light. Because the powersun puts out so much heat, I use it in larger enclosures.

I have a 2' x 3' (appx) tort table built on one wall of the leopard shed for a young leopard. I use the fluorescent bulb over the center of that. Then at one end there's a fixture with a 60 watt black incandescent bulb for heat that I leave on day and night. One could use a CHE here instead.

You really have to experiment and see what gives you the result you're looking for.

 

[Tom]

Wow that’s a lot! Is all that necessary? Leopard tortoise and she’s only a few inches long. Here is the light I was thinking about getting, hopefully it loads now. View attachment 222138

• The basking lamp is a necessity. They've got to be able to warm up during the day.
• If you lived in a warm sunny climate and your tortoise could get sun year round, you could skip the indoor UV, but since you don't, you'll need something for winter.
• If the whole room is heated to 80 degrees 24/7, you won't need the CHE and thermostat. If the room drops below 80 at any time, you need something for heat, and the CHE with a thermostat works well for that.
• If the room where your enclosure sits get plenty of natural light from windows and it doesn't look like a cave in there, then you don't need the additional florescent tube. More light tends to help with appetite and general well being. It should look like daytime, but this one is not "necessary".

 

[JoeyA95]

• The basking lamp is a necessity. They've got to be able to warm up during the day.
• If you lived in a warm sunny climate and your tortoise could get sun year round, you could skip the indoor UV, but since you don't, you'll need something for winter.
• If the whole room is heated to 80 degrees 24/7, you won't need the CHE and thermostat. If the room drops below 80 at any time, you need something for heat, and the CHE with a thermostat works well for that.
• If the room where your enclosure sits get plenty of natural light from windows and it doesn't look like a cave in there, then you don't need the additional florescent tube. More light tends to help with appetite and general well being. It should look like daytime, but this one is not "necessary".

Thanks

 

[JoeyA95]

I do it differently from Tom. Depending upon where I'm using it, I use one of two types - a 100 watt Zoo Med Powersun OR a 22" fluorescent UVB tube light. Because the powersun puts out so much heat, I use it in larger enclosures.

I have a 2' x 3' (appx) tort table built on one wall of the leopard shed for a young leopard. I use the fluorescent bulb over the center of that. Then at one end there's a fixture with a 60 watt black incandescent bulb for heat that I leave on day and night. One could use a CHE here instead.

You really have to experiment and see what gives you the result you're looking for.

Thank you