CHE for basking
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tyguy35 said:
If he's outdoors for the summer, its debatable if he needs any UV during the winter months at all.
If it were me, and this was my situation, I would just stick with a CHE running 24/7 and just use a tube florescent during the winter
Again, debatable.
Tube florescents are indeed second-rate to a mercury vapor bulb in terms of simple UVB emissions, but they're not a completely useless product altogether simply because the MVB is believed to be better. And when you take into account those recent studies regarding the basking behaviors of tortoises, and the effects of basking lamps in general, MVBs are just not the most ideal heat source for a tortoise IMHO. Great for high-temp-loving lizards like Uromastyx and bearded dragons. I just wouldn't use them for tortoises.Tube florescents DO emit adequate amounts of UVA/UVB if you mount them properly at the correct distances. The 5.0 typically only reach about 12" while the 10.0s will hit about 18." Their main disadvantages is that they do not give off heat (not necessarily a disadvantage depending on your lighting/heating needs), and they don't last as long as MVBs (6 months compared to the 8-12 months of a MVB).
The only tube florescent bulbs to stay away from are the T-5's (really skinny ones). These are too intense and can cause blindness like the compact florescents.
The standard diameter tube bulbs T-8s and T-10s are fine.
tyguy35 said:
Exactly! Thank you!
I mean, in most cases, having both bulbs on simultaneously produces too much heat, and/or takes too much effort to calibrate and achieve the proper basking temps. So if you have to have the CHE anyway for nighttime heat, it just makes logical sense to have it on 24/7 and have a separate light exclusively for UV.
I wish more people would realize this. The convenience of the "two-in-one" (UVB+heat) factor of a MVB is also its curse. You can't have it on at night, so one way or another you going to end up having TWO light fixtures. Like I said, they work for some reptiles, but in my personal opinion, not for tortoises...at least not in most cases.
I dont think the tube florescents are adequate as a sole source of UV for people who live in areas with frozen winters. In my experience, they are not enough to prevent MBD.
As far as too much heat from a MVB, this is a simple fix. Raise the bulb, and use a bigger enclosure. The sun is also an "all in one" deal. Heat, light and UV.
As far as "calibrating" a CHE, simply use a thermostat. Set it, check it and forget it. Some species don't need any night heat in a normal house anyway.
Different species, ages and individual situations all might need some different equipment. I wouldn't want to see any potentially helpful tools eliminated. The CHE/florescent tube system seems like a good choice for some redfoot keepers, but a MVB on a timer alone is often a good choice for russian keepers. For leopards or sulcatas I think the MVB/CHE combo is a good one.
As far as too much heat from a MVB, this is a simple fix. Raise the bulb, and use a bigger enclosure. The sun is also an "all in one" deal. Heat, light and UV.
As far as "calibrating" a CHE, simply use a thermostat. Set it, check it and forget it. Some species don't need any night heat in a normal house anyway.
Different species, ages and individual situations all might need some different equipment. I wouldn't want to see any potentially helpful tools eliminated. The CHE/florescent tube system seems like a good choice for some redfoot keepers, but a MVB on a timer alone is often a good choice for russian keepers. For leopards or sulcatas I think the MVB/CHE combo is a good one.
I go up an inch and it drops to cold for a basking I think I have it right at 93 for now.
we will see the weather is whats killing me. the basking area has been perfect for over a year till now.
could I raise the bulb to the point of its heat having no effect only its uv? then use the che for heat
we will see the weather is whats killing me. the basking area has been perfect for over a year till now.
could I raise the bulb to the point of its heat having no effect only its uv? then use the che for heat
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I had that problem with MVB's too. In an enclosed enclosure they want to turn everything into a flat 95 degrees, instead of giving me a proper 110 degree basking spot. That's why I just use halogen, but I am in florida where UVB isn't hard to come by
What are the new MVB studies?
What are the new MVB studies?
Tom said:
I believe the OP mentioned his tort would be outdoors during the summer, which was why I was pushing the tubes.
EKLC said:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-New-Research-on-Basking-Lamps-from-TT#axzz234iEGmxo
Which led to a similar discussion here: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-IS-THE-MVB-REALLY-BETTER-STRAIGHT-DOWN#axzz239yq9bmA
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StudentoftheReptile said:
Thanks, interesting read. To me, this is not an attack on the MVB, as they are not doubting its ability to produce UVB, but evidence that enclosure design is a very important factor. If you insulate your enclosure and keep your MVB at a proper height, the ambient temperature will not be 62 F and the tortoise will get a more even bask.
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