Confirm this is a sulcata please :)

leopard777

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was the 6 year sulcata raise by them? the ivory and the normal one look ok to me
 

Amanda81

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Oh I missed his age. At what age are they past the danger of "failing" if their started wrong?
 

leopard777

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Given a choice I would start off with a older sulcata, few months ones are proving quite difficult to me
 
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Maggie Cummings

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Oh I missed his age. At what age are they past the danger of "failing" if their started wrong?

It's called "hatchling failure syndrome". He's NOT a hatching...He's 18 months old. He's ok now if he does not have MBD, he'll be fine. Just a slow grower, and if the op raises him correctly, the pyramiding will look less and less as the new growth comes in smooth...
 

Tom

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Oh I missed his age. At what age are they past the danger of "failing" if their started wrong?

In my experience, if they make it past the 100 gram mark, they are usually going to make it. Its not a time thing, its more of a size thing. This does not mean that a 98 gram one couldn't die from chronic dehydration related issues, or that a 102 gram one is bulletproof forever. Its more of a general guideline. An arbitrary mile maker, if you will. Usually if they are growing well enough to hit 100, they are fine.
 

Tom

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Given a choice I would start off with a older sulcata, few months ones are proving quite difficult to me
This really depends on how hatchlings have been started. And as far as starting with an older one, it really depends on how they've been housed and cared for too.
 

leopard777

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At least I see a big dish of water in the enclosure, and seem like a enclose one too, I seen worse, no water dish, open air, just a tub to hold them or bird cages.
And sad to say usually it's like monkey see monkey do, a non experience keeper would just follow the shop style of housing one..
 
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Tom

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At least I see a big dish of water in the enclosure, and seem like a enclose one too, I seen worse, no water dish, open air, just a tub to hold them or bird cages.
And sad to say usually it's like monkey see monkey do, a non experience keeper would just follow the shop style of housing one..

Agreed. Certainly not the worst I've seen either.
 

jmill

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Ok so looks like they had sold the little fella even though we paid a deposit. Had a good few words ... sounds like it went through one ear out the other.

We cane away with this little one

2014-11-08 14.24.44.jpg
 

Yvonne G

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Please read the pinned threads at the top of the Sulcata section. Keeping your new baby on those pellets is not healthy. He needs a substrate you can moisten.
 

jmill

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Ah missed that one. I know sand and soil is a good mix and had planned to put that in. I will swap this over next week
 

TortMomma

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Sand and soil is no longer considered a good mix as the sand can cause impaction problems if accidentally ingested. Soil on it's own is good, Eco earth or coconut coir, peat moss, and orchard bark are also good. I know there are some other good options too, which I'm sure someone will chime in with.
 

jmill

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That's quite a turn around from most things I have read. Be interested to hear what most people use?
 

TortMomma

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I personally use Eco earth bricks (aka coconut coir) mainly because I'm familiar with it and it's cheaper than jungle bedding.
 

Gab5150

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I also use Eco Earth. It holds humidity well and doesn't mold when exposed to high levels of moisture (unlike the pellets).

And your little sully is adorable, by the way! :)
 

Tom

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That's quite a turn around from most things I have read. Be interested to hear what most people use?

What you've been reading is the same old outdated info that has been circulating for decades. It is based on incorrect assumptions, omission of the rainy season, and temperature readings taken 6 feet off the ground where no sulcata would ever be. They should have taken temperature reading from 6 feet under ground.

Here is the current info and a few more that might help:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.79895/

http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/the-end-of-pyramiding.15137/

Your new baby has had a very dry start. This is bad. Dry substrate and red bulbs are also bad. The threads above will help.
 

leigti

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Before I got my tortoise and for sometime after I continue to do research on various sites. So learning from experience let me save you some time :) stick to this site. otherwise it just gets very confusing. There are some different opinions on things here, minor contradictions, but over all great information.
 
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Maggie Cummings

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Please please, read Tom and Dean S's care sheets on Sulcata. Put him in a "closed chamber" and get him 80% humidity. He needs a moist substrate, I like orchid bark or cypress mulch. Top soil works too. So does coir. A little sand in topsoil won't hurt. The rabbit pellets will cause splay leg because it does not provide a firm walking surface...or at least one that doesn't roll away. Hatchlings are VERY hard to raise so you need to do a bunch of research on TFO, also show us pix of your enclosure so we can advise you there...:)
 

jmill

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Hi Maggie,

I have been reading lots of toms articles and I plan on making some changes to his/hers environment this weekend.

It is a closed chamber so thats all good.

I am going to see if I can pick up some coconut coir. I also plan on getting a ceramic bulb to replace the red one.

Oh and he isn't a hatching, he is 18 months old. The good news is, he has settled by the looks of it.. he is feeding well so far.
 

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