Cypress mulch wetness

[ryan57]

 

[Fire_bug80]

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Wow. Amazing growth

 

[ryan57]

Wow. Amazing growth

Truth be told, it was because of the information on this site in large part. Tom's care guide is spot on. The only issue I take with these folks is the approach that something is the "best" way. The best way not to get his by a bus it to remain in a lead cage all your life. I agree. Just because something is the conceptual "best" does not mean that it will work for everyone and that there are not other ways.

 

[Fire_bug80]

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So... stump has an enclosure outside, kind of a winter house that will be moved outside come spring, the doggie bed where he is spending about 1/3 to 1/2 of his nights and the muggy box where he is every morning, until he goes out or all day/night. Tomorrow he's in the muggy box all day and won't come out except to eat.

Can I see a better view of your lighting. I see the heater is on a stand. What about the basking light?

 

[Fire_bug80]

I took all the advice. Just set it up. Already at 85% humidity and 83 at his hide. Thanks again. Hopefully he will thrive now. 😬

 

[Fire_bug80]

Well humidity dropped down to 75%. Temp is at around 78

 

[Avuwyy]

Live plants are great for humidity if you’re struggling to keep it above 80% (Though it shouldn’t be too difficult with closed chambers, and keeping the substrate damp). Something to think about to assist in keeping the humidity up Just make sure the plants you’re putting in are tortoise-safe if so.

 

[Fire_bug80]

Live plants are great for humidity if you’re struggling to keep it above 80% (Though it shouldn’t be too difficult with closed chambers, and keeping the substrate damp). Something to think about to assist in keeping the humidity up Just make sure the plants you’re putting in are tortoise-safe if so.

It’s been holding at 80/80. That’s good enough, correct?

 

[wellington]

Well humidity dropped down to 75%. Temp is at around 78

There will be adjusting in the beginning. It's not a true closed chamber so more adjustments will be needed. Also don't forget, each time you open the lid or move a light/heat source you will lose some humidity. Also be sure the substrate is really wet but not dripping or floating in water.

 

[Fire_bug80]

There will be adjusting in the beginning. It's not a true closed chamber so more adjustments will be needed. Also don't forget, each time you open the lid or move a light/heat source you will lose some humidity. Also be sure the substrate is really wet but not dripping or floating in water.

Another question. I know I have to turn off the basking side. So Also the uvb same time?

 

[wellington]

Another question. I know I have to turn off the basking side. So Also the uvb same time?

Yes dark at night. Be sure to have a no light heating for night though. Either ceramic heat emitter or radiant heat panel. The temp has to always stay at 80-85 never lower.

 

[Tom]

Another question. I know I have to turn off the basking side. So Also the uvb same time?

Most of the care info found online and from pet shops is all wrong. Its the same wrong info that has been repeated for years. Here is the my lighting info breakdown:
There are four elements to heating and lighting:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.

 

[Fire_bug80]

Most of the care info found online and from pet shops is all wrong. Its the same wrong info that has been repeated for years. Here is the my lighting info breakdown:
There are four elements to heating and lighting:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.

Thanks Tom. I have a 100w zoo med basking light I just bought last week. After that I’m using the 65 watt lights u recommended My new setup has been bumping 80/80 and he’s been active all day! Never has he done that since I’ve had him!!

 

[Fire_bug80]

Truth be told, it was because of the information on this site in large part. Tom's care guide is spot on. The only issue I take with these folks is the approach that something is the "best" way. The best way not to get his by a bus it to remain in a lead cage all your life. I agree. Just because something is the conceptual "best" does not mean that it will work for everyone and that there are not other ways.

What hygrometer do u have in your muggy box? And where do I get endive, escarole,??

 

[Fire_bug80]

I’ve had my humid box set up for a month now. I added another CHE today and my humidity dropped to 77% from 83%! It only added around 5 degrees warmer. My temps were 84 during the day then dropping to 75 at night. Why would it go down? I even added more water

 

[ryan57]

The relation between humidity and temperature formula simply says they are
inversely proportional. If temperature increases it will lead to a decrease in relative
humidity, thus the air will become drier; whereas, when temperature decreases,
the air will become wet, which means the relative humidity will increase.

The Relationship Between Temperature and Relative Humidity - Oklahoma State University

Do you ever have trouble at home with someone lowering the thermostat during the summer to the point that your windows fog up on the outside? If so, then you may find this topic rather interesting.

fm.okstate.edu

If your room stays the same temperature the temp and humidity in the enclosure will remain constant.

 

[Fire_bug80]

The relation between humidity and temperature formula simply says they are
inversely proportional. If temperature increases it will lead to a decrease in relative
humidity, thus the air will become drier; whereas, when temperature decreases,
the air will become wet, which means the relative humidity will increase.

The Relationship Between Temperature and Relative Humidity - Oklahoma State University

Do you ever have trouble at home with someone lowering the thermostat during the summer to the point that your windows fog up on the outside? If so, then you may find this topic rather interesting.

fm.okstate.edu

If your room stays the same temperature the temp and humidity in the enclosure will remain constant.

So how do I get the 84/84 you keep?

 

[Mrs.Jennifer]

So how do I get the 84/84 you keep?Hel6

So how do I get the 84/84 you keep?

Hello! The way to up humidity is adding moisture. Keep adding water to the substrate. It will be quite wet underneath, but the surface will remain dry.

 

[ryan57]

So how do I get the 84/84 you keep?

For me it takes about 1/2 gallon every 2 days, the room is 68-70 deg and I have 100watts of ceramic heating elements. 40w and 60w

 

[Fire_bug80]

For me it takes about 1/2 gallon every 2 days, the room is 68-70 deg and I have 100watts of ceramic heating elements. 40w and 60w

Can you send a pic