Dimmer switches?

Elohi

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Can I put a higher wattage mvb (160w exo terra) on a dimmer switch?
I'm planning on put the CHE on a thermostat.
 

abclements

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I've heard mvbs don't work well with dimmer switches. But I've never actually tried
 

jaizei

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MVBs need line voltage so trying to use a dimmer with one isn't a good idea.
 

Elohi

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Ah ok, that makes sense. Thank you both very much.
 

Tom

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If your 160 is too hot, try raising it, or using a lower wattage.
 

Elohi

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Do y'all think a 100w mvb would keep a 54 gallon closed chamber too warm or warm enough with a CHE on a thermostat? And any insight on what wattage of CHE I will need for this size of chamber? I have a 60w now and I don't see it keeping 54 gallons warm enough at night for a leopard hatchling.
It is however doing a fabulous job of keeping the temp just right in her temp box. That's why I doubt it will be warm enough for 54 g.
Thanks!


Oh and I'm using pretty thick plexiglas for my top/lid. I thought about putting weather stripping between the big tub and the plexiglas...good idea or no? What about ventilation? It's actually a massive 54 gallon tote and the handles are molded into the structure of the tote, and it's has slits for air. Is that enough? Maybe I should provide pictures when I have it mostly set up.
 

Tom

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No way to know. You've just gotta try it out and watch your thermometers. Depends on a lot of variables. I can't run 100 watt bulbs in my 4x8' chambers. Too hot. I run 65s.

The CHE on the thermostat will always maintain your ambient.

For basking and UV you might find that a florescent UV tube in combination with a lower wattage flood bulb will work the best for you. If your tortoise get regular sunshine most of the year, you really don't "need" indoor UV. If they go for two or three weeks in the winter without sunshine during a cold spell, it will do no harm.
 

Elohi

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I've been going back on forth on what will work best, tube for uv, plus regular bulb for heat... or mvb for uv and heat and risk having to raise it, opening myself up for challenges like letting my humidity escape, since the domes will be placed atop the plexiglas with holes cut for each lamp.


And up until a few days ago, I only had my little ornate, and she did great with visits outdoors to soak up some rays. But it's been cold and rainy most of the week and it's still cold today. I live south Texas so I'm not thrilled with the cold snap. I like my heat and so does my ornate. So she hasn't been able to go out and I don't dare take the tiny hatchling out. It's 61f :-/
I'm paranoid, I would be devastated if my hatchling were to get sick because of a decision I made or something that could have been prevented.


You know what I find ironic? I did a TON of research on my ornate and obviously that led me to this forum a whole lot of the time (lol) but I read elsewhere that ornate's are tricky and tend to not do well as captives due to their needs compared to other box turtles...but she's been a dream. She isn't difficult to care for at all. She loves live food, the wigglier and crunchier the better and she does her own thing on her own schedule. I just provide the outdoors, indoors (until her garden is built) and she adjusted beautifully. She thinks the big tongs are her best friend and she LOVES her turtle cave above all else in the universe. Is she an exception maybe? I have gone WAY off topic, I apologize lol. (I ramble a little..okkkkk a lot) ;-)
 
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