Enclosure size for baby hermann
Hello!
It's a normal size enclosure for a hatchling/yearling. I would make a move when he will reach size of 4 inches - at this size rapid growth stage is probably over and he can be housed in open top enclosure. As all tortoises grow at different rate, there is no need to rush now but start planning when he reaches 3 inches - decide on space, shape (L-shaped, double-decker etc.), materials and such while targeting size of 4x8 ft.
If you can provide an outdoor space and willing to brumate him in winter then enclosure upgrade may be unnecessary at all. However, outdoor pen has to be built with a "greenhouse" zone to extend outdoor time.
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
Yeah Alex has provided all the info you need here, essentially once your tortoise reaches the size he mentions, they’re going to need roughly an 8x4 foot space to roam comfortably
We can talk you through some cost effective ways to do so when the time comes! Being from the uk myself, I know how unpredictable our weather is, so honestly to play it safe, I’d always have a good indoor set up
We can talk you through some cost effective ways to do so when the time comes! Being from the uk myself, I know how unpredictable our weather is, so honestly to play it safe, I’d always have a good indoor set up
They all grow at wildly different rates and for a wide variety of reasons. At 7 months they could be 20 grams or 200 grams. We need to know the size of the tortoise. Either length or weight.
In most cases, a 2x4 foot enclosures should last at least a year for a baby hermanni. For slow growers that are kept too dry and underfed, which is sadly the norm, an enclosure that size might last 3 or 4 years.
Hi!Yeah Alex has provided all the info you need here, essentially once your tortoise reaches the size he mentions, they’re going to need roughly an 8x4 foot space to roam comfortably
We can talk you through some cost effective ways to do so when the time comes! Being from the uk myself, I know how unpredictable our weather is, so honestly to play it safe, I’d always have a good indoor set up
My hermann is probably
HiYeah Alex has provided all the info you need here, essentially once your tortoise reaches the size he mentions, they’re going to need roughly an 8x4 foot space to roam comfortably
We can talk you through some cost effective ways to do so when the time comes! Being from the uk myself, I know how unpredictable our weather is, so honestly to play it safe, I’d always have a good indoor set up
My Hermann (Shelly) is probably approaching the size that we need to upgrade her enclosure. Also from the UK here, would you be happy to share those cost effective tips please!
Thank you
Hello and welcome!Hi!
My hermann is probably
Hi
My Hermann (Shelly) is probably approaching the size that we need to upgrade her enclosure. Also from the UK here, would you be happy to share those cost effective tips please!
Thank you
If you don't mind, you can start a thread in the Introductions section (or Tortoises Enclosures) and such. Tell us a bit more about Shelly - her age and size, where does she live now, post some photos. And then we'll try to sort the things out. Everyone's situation is different and a separate thread is easier to follow. This post on Reddit made by one of the forum members can give you some ideas to work with: https://www.reddit.com/r/tortoise/s/u55E8pM0Ab
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
Yes absolutely! You can start a new thread like Alex suggested, but I’ll put the information for you here too, hope it helps!Hi!
My hermann is probably
Hi
My Hermann (Shelly) is probably approaching the size that we need to upgrade her enclosure. Also from the UK here, would you be happy to share those cost effective tips please!
Thank you
Obviously there’s a few things that are an unavoidable expense with the equipment side of things, but set up wise, you can do things pretty cost effective
I’m going to include some information below on an example of an appropriate indoor set up, it includes the correct levels and equipment etc, including the appropriate indoor uv
Basking light should be an incandescent floodlight(example attached) on a 12 hour timer.
Basking temperature directly under the floodlight should be 95-100f. The rest of the enclosure should be ranging 75-80 during the day.
You may also wish to add ambient lighting on the same timer, providing shady areas with hides and safe plants.
Then CHE/CHE’s(ceramic heat emitters) always on a thermostat, for night heat if your house drops below 60’s at night. Set the thermostat for a night temperature place the probe in their cooler end, plug the che into it and the thermostat into the mains, it’ll be plugged in 24/7 but will only turn on when the temperature drops. We’re a cooler climate so I think you’ll most likely need these, especially in winter if you aren’t planning to brumate.
Large wide(not deep) dome fittings will help project the heat down, just don’t solely rely on the clamps they come with, always hang securely
Indoor Uv should be a t5 fluorescent tube, avoid the compact and coil uv bulbs, they don’t give out enough uv and can hurt the tortoises eyes. The uv can be on a 4 hour timer from noon. I’ve attached examples of the two brands to go for and some examples of how to mount them. I’d personally go with the Arcadia proT5 kit 12% because it comes with the reflector fitting, the reptisun needs its buying separately.
With lighting always avoid anything labelled halogen or mercury vapour.
For substrates, either coco coir, dampened and packed down by hand as a base, with a layer of orchid(fir not pine) bark or forest floor on top, or just the orchid bark/forest floor. Never use anything with sand mixed in, no top soils and no kinds of moss. The problem with top soil is unless you’ve composted it yourself, you don’t know what kind of plants have gone into it, it could be something toxic. Sand can irritate the eyes and be an impaction risk, moss is an impaction risk too.
You want to aim to have the bottom layer of substrate damp, to do this pour lukewarm water into the corners, not loads but enough to dampen the entire bottom layer. To stop that top layer getting a little too dry/dusty, mix the substrate now n then. Check your monitors and substrate to do the pours as and when needed.
I’d personally recommend you make your own base to go as big as you possibly can for the space you have. The closer you can get to an 8x4 size the better and there’s multiple savy ways to do so
When making your base, just make sure the material is safe, some use flower beds, or take a large bookcase, take out the shelves and lie flat, or just make their own, for all these options I’d line with cheap pond liner to protect the base, making sure the liner goes up the sides too and make sure those sides are deep enough! They can be professional escape artists
I’ve also included examples of stands people make/buy to hang their lighting, use a temperature gun to determine how high the basking bulb needs to be, the uv I suggested needs to be mounted 18-20 inches from the substrate for the Arcadia.
For a water dish a shallow terracotta saucer is considered safest, they have grip in the event your tortoise flips themselves, most pet store options are a known hazard.
I’d also always recommend getting your hands on a temp gun, they’re SO handy when setting up a new environment or for checking your monitors are correct
Some of these examples are small but hopefully they give you a good idea, I think the shelf unit or something similar is a really good way to keep cost down and give them more space
