First Red Foot Enclosure - Advice Appreciated

[ShelbyMc]

Hello everyone! First time posting here, and I apologize because it’s a long one. I am currently working towards getting a red foot tortoise. I don’t have one currently but have been doing research for years on and off, knowing I would one day be getting one. I found this forum a little while ago and have learned a lot through the various posts I’ve read, so thank you all for that! My reason for posting is to get some advice/critique on my current set up for my future tortoise. I have attached pictures as well so you know what I am referring to below.

The base of the enclosure is a 4ft x 3ft x 1ft high wooden box lined with a shower pan liner (very thick vinyl). It then has a pvc frame covered in clear shower curtain liners to create a closed chamber. I recognize it’s not the prettiest enclosure, but I think it will be ok for the first few years of growth, at which point I will build a larger pen.

As far as heating, lighting, etc., I have a 100W flood bulb on the left that is on for 13 hours during the day, a 100W CHE that is on at all times, a ReptiSun 5.0 UVB T5 HO Fluorescent Bulb - 22" (Zoo Med) that is on for 13 hours during the day, a heat mat on the underside of the roof of the hide in the corner, and a humidifier that is on at all times.

The basking bulb and UVB are on a timer, so day length is consistent. The CHE and heat mat are both on a thermostat that keeps temperatures in a safe range (see temps below). I would also like to make it very clear that the heat mat is on the underside of the lid of the hide, and thus a tortoise could not come in contact with it in any way. It simply radiates heat down into the hide to keep the hide more consistently warm. Prior to the heat mat, the hide only got up to 75°F, and I wanted it at 80°F. The humidifier automatically maintains a set humidity, as it turns itself on and off as needed to maintain humidity.

Substrate is an inch of coco coir at the bottom to hold moisture under the substrate, topped with 3 inches of cypress mulch. The substrate is dry to the touch on top, but with the humidifier, humidity is still maintained.

During the day:

• Ambient air temperature: 80°F (very consistent with the thermostat)
• Basking spot maximum temperature on the stone: 96°F
• Basking spot average temperature: 94°F
• Temperature within main hide: 80°F (very consistent with the thermostat)
• Humidity at tortoise level: 85-95% (I have the humidifier set to 90%, but it swings 5% in either direction)

At night:

• Ambient air temperature on right side: 80°F (very consistent with the thermostat)
• Ambient air temperature on left side: 72°F
• Temperature within main hide: 80°F (very consistent with the thermostat)
• Humidity at tortoise level: 85-95% (I have the humidifier set to 90%, but it swings 5% in either direction)

Currently for decor, there is a wooden hide in the corner to function as the main hide. The back, longest sides of the hide are both 18 inches long. So, it is an 18in x 18in square, with the front corner cut off at a 45° angle. That wood is sealed in finish and left to cure for multiple weeks. There is a tile under the basking bulb, but I may replace it with a smaller tile, as this one is just one I had and it is a bit large in the enclosure. I also have two terracotta saucers, the larger for water and the smaller for food. I have another cave on the way and plan to place it in the back left corner for another hide option. I would also like to add plants in the future, but I need to wait a few months to ensure they are pesticide-free and safe if the tortoise were to nibble on them.

A bit about me and my current situation: I am a grad student in middle Tennessee getting a master’s in biology where my emphasis is in herpetology. (My thesis is eastern box turtle research) I currently live in an apartment, and the lawn around my apartment is regularly sprayed with pesticides, so this would be a strictly indoor tortoise, but being a young one, I imagine that is best anyway. I graduate in May and will move to wherever my post-graduation job takes me, so this apartment is not long term by any means. I completely understand that this set up is not a forever-home and I have every intention of expanding as the tortoise grows, but this is my starting point.

I really want to do what is best and have tried my best to create an environment that is good for a little red foot. Please give any and all critique. I respect others’ years of experience in captive tortoises and would appreciate any recommendations you have. I want things to be as stable and correct as possible prior to bringing an animal into my life.

Thank you!

Shelby

 

[wellington]

It actually looks nice.
The average temp should be closer to 84. RF don't really bask, so not sure you need the flood. They do like more coverage so add some tortoise safe plants.
Uvb only needs to be on 4 hours a day.
No humidifier is needed and can cause health issues. Dampen the substrate from the bottom, by pouring warm water into the corners. This will help keep top layer dry to prevent shell rot but dampen the lower substrate which will give the humidity needed.
@ZEROPILOT can help you further.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

I'd only ad a few reccomendations:
1) With high humidity, keep an eye on that wooden box. There's a good chance it'll get moldy.
2) Replace that flood light with a CHE. They provide heat day and night without harsh light.
3) Use you uvb a few hours a day. For the rest of the day cycle, use a standard florescent tube or some led lights. These will provide light for the day cycle (12 hours) with no bright light.
4) Do as Wellington said with pouring the water into the corners. Evaporation will provide the humidity. You'll need to see how much water and how often you need to ad it. But probably once every 5 to 7 days. Get rid of the mister/fogger. It's a complexity that you won't need.
5) By positioning your CHE, get the temperature between 80 and 84 throughout the enclosure. 76 to 86 would be my upper and lower limit in situations like this where we are able to be in charge of the temperature.
6) Get an inexpensive digital food type scale for monthly weight. It'll be a good indicator of health.
7) Get a non contact thermometer to check the temperatures. They're between $15 and $30 and will last forever.
I'm sure I'll think of other things. But it's been a long day.
What I see in your pictures is impressive. It doesn't need much.
Welcome to the forum

 

[ShelbyMc]

It actually looks nice.
The average temp should be closer to 84. RF don't really bask, so not sure you need the flood. They do like more coverage so add some tortoise safe plants.
Uvb only needs to be on 4 hours a day.
No humidifier is needed and can cause health issues. Dampen the substrate from the bottom, by pouring warm water into the corners. This will help keep top layer dry to prevent shell rot but dampen the lower substrate which will give the humidity needed.
@ZEROPILOT can help you further.

Thank you!! I appreciate the advice!

 

[ShelbyMc]

I'd only ad a few reccomendations:
1) With high humidity, keep an eye on that wooden box. There's a good chance it'll get moldy.
2) Replace that flood light with a CHE. They provide heat day and night without harsh light.
3) Use you uvb a few hours a day. For the rest of the day cycle, use a standard florescent tube or some led lights. These will provide light for the day cycle (12 hours) with no bright light.
4) Do as Wellington said with pouring the water into the corners. Evaporation will provide the humidity. You'll need to see how much water and how often you need to ad it. But probably once every 5 to 7 days. Get rid of the mister/fogger. It's a complexity that you won't need.
5) By positioning your CHE, get the temperature between 80 and 84 throughout the enclosure. 76 to 86 would be my upper and lower limit in situations like this where we are able to be in charge of the temperature.
6) Get an inexpensive digital food type scale for monthly weight. It'll be a good indicator of health.
7) Get a non contact thermometer to check the temperatures. They're between $15 and $30 and will last forever.
I'm sure I'll think of other things. But it's been a long day.
What I see in your pictures is impressive. It doesn't need much.
Welcome to the forum

Thank you!! I appreciate the advice!

 

[wellington]

If you want to save the box from molding and rotting, you can try to line it with plastic. The easiest way would be to push the substrate to one end, lay the plastic then push the substrate on to the plastic you just laid and lay more on the other side.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

The wooden hide can get mold or rot, especially from the inside (where it's dark, cool and humid). It depends on the wood type and treatment, but chances are high.

Otherwise the enclosure looks fine to me (some good tweaks have been already suggested to make it near perfect).