General Marginated Tortoise Help.

[Secretos]

Hey everyone this is my first post on this forum I do apologise if this post is somewhat of a duplicate and if another one does exist.

I currently have a marginated tortoise that was bought in a pet shop however I’ve read the beginner guide on the forum which states they tend to lie/don’t know what the tortoise needs and just try to sell products.

I’ve got a couple questions I would say I’m a beginner not a lot of knowledge I’ve researched online yet they tend to differ information based on each website.

My tortoise named george is about 1 in a half years old.
(Lil geroge!)

I currently have a heat lamp which is timed based on actual time shuts off at 12 midnight and back on at 12 midday (This is what I was told at the pet shop and websites differ heavily)
It is also based on a temperature sensor which is in the middle of his 3ft tank set at around 29 celsius which shuts off at this temperature to avoid over heating. His lamp is also set at the same time 12 midday and 12 midnight. If this is wrong and I should change please let me know.

I also feed him daily I was told to feed him food that is around the size of his shell but was told he shouldn’t overeat. His diet currently consists of Kale, Dandelions, spinach rarely and a treat such as strawberries watermelon etc, on a rare occasion. I’ve recently bought two products which I will link here.

Product 1
Product 2

I have been told this will be good for his diet health etc.

I was told at the pet shop to bath him weekly which I found very strange. Being a college student managing assignments part time work etc It has been difficult to bath him more then this. If this is heavily needed please let me know and I will try to bath him more.

For his enclosure layout the setup is this. His house is on the cold side along with his water. Food is in the middle and his basking spot is under the lap this is what I have been told I will attach and image below.
Please ignore messy cables I’m currently redoing cables for a tidier look.

Last thing before I end. I haven’t taken him to a vet due to the closest exotic animal vet is around 1 in a half hours away and I wouldn’t be too comfortable driving him that long. If I should take him please let me know the best way to do so.

I apologise again if this is a repost and look forward for everyone’s help. George also says hello and looks forward to yous!

Thanks for reading!

 

[tortturt]

Is that sand substrate? because if it is you should change it into coco coir since tortoises tend to eat the sand with the food

 

[tortturt]

and your current food is good

 

[tortturt]

no need for those but get calicum powder FOR TORTS OR REPTILES NOT HUMAN

 

[tortturt]

also you need a uvb bulb for healthy shell growth

 

[Secretos]

Okay thank you, I will change the bedding. Sorry I also do have some calcium and have the UVB bulb set up aswell for him. Thanks for the help.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Hey everyone this is my first post on this forum I do apologise if this post is somewhat of a duplicate and if another one does exist.

I currently have a marginated tortoise that was bought in a pet shop however I’ve read the beginner guide on the forum which states they tend to lie/don’t know what the tortoise needs and just try to sell products.

I’ve got a couple questions I would say I’m a beginner not a lot of knowledge I’ve researched online yet they tend to differ information based on each website.

My tortoise named george is about 1 in a half years old. View attachment 397832
(Lil geroge!)

I currently have a heat lamp which is timed based on actual time shuts off at 12 midnight and back on at 12 midday (This is what I was told at the pet shop and websites differ heavily)
It is also based on a temperature sensor which is in the middle of his 3ft tank set at around 29 celsius which shuts off at this temperature to avoid over heating. His lamp is also set at the same time 12 midday and 12 midnight. If this is wrong and I should change please let me know.

I also feed him daily I was told to feed him food that is around the size of his shell but was told he shouldn’t overeat. His diet currently consists of Kale, Dandelions, spinach rarely and a treat such as strawberries watermelon etc, on a rare occasion. I’ve recently bought two products which I will link here.

Product 1
Product 2

I have been told this will be good for his diet health etc.

I was told at the pet shop to bath him weekly which I found very strange. Being a college student managing assignments part time work etc It has been difficult to bath him more then this. If this is heavily needed please let me know and I will try to bath him more.

For his enclosure layout the setup is this. His house is on the cold side along with his water. Food is in the middle and his basking spot is under the lap this is what I have been told I will attach and image below.View attachment 397833
Please ignore messy cables I’m currently redoing cables for a tidier look.

Last thing before I end. I haven’t taken him to a vet due to the closest exotic animal vet is around 1 in a half hours away and I wouldn’t be too comfortable driving him that long. If I should take him please let me know the best way to do so.

I apologise again if this is a repost and look forward for everyone’s help. George also says hello and looks forward to yous!

Thanks for reading!

Hey! It’s great you found your way to the tortoise forum! It’s the best place to be for all the most up to date care information

First up with lighting double check the basking bulb type you have is a flood bulb and not a spotthe basking bulb is usually best to be off of a thermostat, it’s acting as your ‘sun’, so ideally you don’t want it dimming in and off all day, it’s better if you’re able to get the right height and watt to create the desired basking temperature.

What kind of uvb do you use?

3ft is a bit smaller than the recommended starter size, ideally go for 4x2

Those diet products are great additions! I’d avoid feeding any fruits, even as a treat, if you are going to, stick with very low sugar content

At his size and age he would actually benefit from daily soaks, helps keeping them well hydrated1-2 times a week is fine after the age of 2/3.

Vets unfortunately are often giving out outdated care information, if an illness arises or there’s an injury a vet can certainly help, but I don’t see the use in bringing a healthy baby in.

Oh just a little heads up, I’d switch out the substrate you’re using, those mixes unfortunately are mixed with sand which poses it own risk in captivity, they sometimes try to eat those little white pieces and it creates a rather horrible consistency that sticks to everything when trying to add the moisture you need. If wanting a soil like substrate, go for damp coco coir, or you you like fine grade orchid bark, some use a mix of both.

Hopefully you might find these threads a good read! I know the first one says Herman’s and Russians, but care is virtually the same

lighting etc), correct levels, importance of a closed chamber for younger tortoises(only way to maintain the humidity you need), appropriately maintaining the humidity, safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, a diet list and a really handy diet link to check out! If going with a greenhouse, the lower the ceiling height, whilst still allowing for recommended bulb height, the better! but The viv you have is actually top notch choice for efficiency

Housing young Russian/Herman

Hello there! In this thread, I’m going to include some information on an effective way to tackle a starter set up/a way you can build a bigger size once your baby is an adult. I know it looks a lot to go over, I like to make sure all bases are covered, I’m happy to break down any information...

tortoiseforum.org

This covers a bunch of different closed chamber options, vivs are definitely the best choice

Visual inspiration

Hi guys! I’ve had some lovely messages complimenting me on my care sheets I made for all the visuals they include! That makes me so happy because as a visual learner myself, that was my goal🥰 I’ve recently had some requests for some more visual inspiration for set ups that can house babies/...

tortoiseforum.org

This one here is really good to go over and keep on hand, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying

Common keeping errors

Hello everyone! I’d been a long time lurker on this site long before joining just under a year ago now, over that time I’ve seen these husbandry issues come up time and time again, sometimes with dire consequences☹️ I thought this thread might serve as a good visual guide for these common...

tortoiseforum.org

Hope this all comes in useful! Welcome to the forum

 

[Secretos]

Hey! It’s great you found your way to the tortoise forum! It’s the best place to be for all the most up to date care information

First up with lighting double check the basking bulb type you have is a flood bulb and not a spotthe basking bulb is usually best to be off of a thermostat, it’s acting as your ‘sun’, so ideally you don’t want it dimming in and off all day, it’s better if you’re able to get the right height and watt to create the desired basking temperature.

What kind of uvb do you use?

3ft is a bit smaller than the recommended starter size, ideally go for 4x2

Those diet products are great additions! I’d avoid feeding any fruits, even as a treat, if you are going to, stick with very low sugar content

At his size and age he would actually benefit from daily soaks, helps keeping them well hydrated1-2 times a week is fine after the age of 2/3.

Vets unfortunately are often giving out outdated care information, if an illness arises or there’s an injury a vet can certainly help, but I don’t see the use in bringing a healthy baby in.

Oh just a little heads up, I’d switch out the substrate you’re using, those mixes unfortunately are mixed with sand which poses it own risk in captivity, they sometimes try to eat those little white pieces and it creates a rather horrible consistency that sticks to everything when trying to add the moisture you need. If wanting a soil like substrate, go for damp coco coir, or you you like fine grade orchid bark, some use a mix of both.

Hopefully you might find these threads a good read! I know the first one says Herman’s and Russians, but care is virtually the same

lighting etc), correct levels, importance of a closed chamber for younger tortoises(only way to maintain the humidity you need), appropriately maintaining the humidity, safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, a diet list and a really handy diet link to check out! If going with a greenhouse, the lower the ceiling height, whilst still allowing for recommended bulb height, the better! but The viv you have is actually top notch choice for efficiency

Housing young Russian/Herman

Hello there! In this thread, I’m going to include some information on an effective way to tackle a starter set up/a way you can build a bigger size once your baby is an adult. I know it looks a lot to go over, I like to make sure all bases are covered, I’m happy to break down any information...

tortoiseforum.org

This covers a bunch of different closed chamber options, vivs are definitely the best choice

Visual inspiration

Hi guys! I’ve had some lovely messages complimenting me on my care sheets I made for all the visuals they include! That makes me so happy because as a visual learner myself, that was my goal🥰 I’ve recently had some requests for some more visual inspiration for set ups that can house babies/...

tortoiseforum.org

This one here is really good to go over and keep on hand, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying

Common keeping errors

Hello everyone! I’d been a long time lurker on this site long before joining just under a year ago now, over that time I’ve seen these husbandry issues come up time and time again, sometimes with dire consequences☹️ I thought this thread might serve as a good visual guide for these common...

tortoiseforum.org

Hope this all comes in useful! Welcome to the forum

Okay Thank you. I do think my bulb is a 100W as of now.

However I am scared of having him overheat hence why I have the temperature shut off, how could I avoid this? Reducing the wattage of the lamp or just simply raise the lamp in the enclosure.

I will have a look at those threads you’ve linked and I really appreciate the help thank you so much!

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Okay Thank you. I do think my bulb is a 100W as of now.

However I am scared of having him overheat hence why I have the temperature shut off, how could I avoid this? Reducing the wattage of the lamp or just simply raise the lamp in the enclosure.

I will have a look at those threads you’ve linked and I really appreciate the help thank you so much!

If the bulb is being dimmed to a small extent and temperature stays within the recommended range, it’s probably not a big issue(is it a dimmer it’s on and not an on/off thermostat?)It's not totally natural (when ambient temperature in the enclosure rises, the basking lamp is being dimmed more - opposite to what's happening under the sun). The wrong thing to do is to have a 150W basking bulb in a small enclosure dimmed to 20% of nominal wattage. That isn’t the case here, but you could potentially try the watt down off of the stat and see if it stays in range without it

 

[Secretos]

If the bulb is being dimmed to a small extent and temperature stays within the recommended range, it’s probably not a big issue(is it a dimmer it’s on and not an on/off thermostat?)It's not totally natural (when ambient temperature in the enclosure rises, the basking lamp is being dimmed more - opposite to what's happening under the sun). The wrong thing to do is to have a 150W basking bulb in a small enclosure dimmed to 20% of nominal wattage. That isn’t the case here, but you could potentially try the watt down off of the stat and see if it stays in range without it

It doesn’t dim it turns it off the heat lamp off while it drops temperature to avoid overheating.

The uv light stays on majority of the day though.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

It doesn’t dim it turns it off the heat lamp off while it drops temperature to avoid overheating.

The uv light stays on majority of the day though.

You definitely don’t want your basking bulb on a on&off thermostat, if you’re going to use one, go for a dimmer.

For uvb, every other source of information will tell you 12hours. This is essentially an old fashioned rule that has stuck with a lot of keepers, it stems from the presumption that once the basking light or ambient lighting is on, ie the ‘sun’, that uv must coexist the same amount of hours. Fact is, uv rays only peak for a few hours a day, anyone with a uv meter will confirm this. No tortoise is blasted with 12 hours of uv in the wild, therefore it’s not necessary in captivity. Whilst not necessarily dangerous, it’s potentially annoying to the tortoise to have 12hours on uv in the enclosure.
The right uv bulbs are much more expensive to replace once their uv strength diminishes, so it’s definitely best having it on a 4 hour timer that provides them with all the uv they need, saving your bulb life.
Then some cheaper led lighting for your ambient 12 hour light cycle as well as the basking light on the same 12hrs, your ceramics(if needed) will run 24/7 on a thermostat, hope that all makes sense
The most recommended up to date indoor uv option is t5 tube fluorescent bulbs, Recommended brands are Arcadia proT5 kit 12% or zoo med reptisun t5 10.0(hood usually sold separate), we prefer the Arcadia

 

[Secretos]

You definitely don’t want your basking bulb on a on&off thermostat, if you’re going to use one, go for a dimmer.

For uvb, every other source of information will tell you 12hours. This is essentially an old fashioned rule that has stuck with a lot of keepers, it stems from the presumption that once the basking light or ambient lighting is on, ie the ‘sun’, that uv must coexist the same amount of hours. Fact is, uv rays only peak for a few hours a day, anyone with a uv meter will confirm this. No tortoise is blasted with 12 hours of uv in the wild, therefore it’s not necessary in captivity. Whilst not necessarily dangerous, it’s potentially annoying to the tortoise to have 12hours on uv in the enclosure.
The right uv bulbs are much more expensive to replace once their uv strength diminishes, so it’s definitely best having it on a 4 hour timer that provides them with all the uv they need, saving your bulb life.
Then some cheaper led lighting for your ambient 12 hour light cycle as well as the basking light on the same 12hrs, your ceramics(if needed) will run 24/7 on a thermostat, hope that all makes sense
The most recommended up to date indoor uv option is t5 tube fluorescent bulbs, Recommended brands are Arcadia proT5 kit 12% or zoo med reptisun t5 10.0(hood usually sold separate), we prefer the Arcadia

Okay Thank you. I am currently changing the substrate I have coco coir that is drying out so it’s not too wet and just damp. I’m going to cover it with a little bit of bark.

To answer the bulb question it is currently a spot bulb which I will change to a flood one.

And you mean to add some sort of just cheap lights leds or alike in the enclosure just to stop him having a lot of UV. And am I able to just buy a certain thermostat that dims the heat lamp or is it a certain bulb?

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Okay Thank you. I am currently changing the substrate I have coco coir that is drying out so it’s not too wet and just damp. I’m going to cover it with a little bit of bark.

To answer the bulb question it is currently a spot bulb which I will change to a flood one.

And you mean to add some sort of just cheap lights leds or alike in the enclosure just to stop him having a lot of UV. And am I able to just buy a certain thermostat that dims the heat lamp or is it a certain bulb?

Thanks again for the help.

Yeah any leds in the colour range 5500-6500k is finewe personally use the white python brand but you can definitely find cheaper ones. It’s essentially to keep the enclosure nice and well lit once the uvb is off for the day, it helps with activity levels.

You can buy dimming thermostats for your flood, we’ve personally always got along with the microclimate brand

 

[Secretos]

Yeah any leds in the colour range 5500-6500k is finewe personally use the white python brand but you can definitely find cheaper ones. It’s essentially to keep the enclosure nice and well lit once the uvb is off for the day, it helps with activity levels.

You can buy dimming thermostats for your flood, we’ve personally always got along with the microclimate brand

Hey, thank you. I've changed out his sand to a coco coir base and some coconut terrain bark. He is eating it, but I've heard that's normal, and it's normal for it to stick to him while it settles.

I will have a look for that dimming thermostat, as for some reason I can't get the one you linked to me shipped over to Ireland. (Edit - Found it)

Also, what temperature should I have the bulb at to keep him comfortable?

Thanks again. George and I really appreciate it.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Hey, thank you. I've changed out his sand to a coco coir base and some coconut terrain bark. He is eating it, but I've heard that's normal, and it's normal for it to stick to him while it settles.

I will have a look for that dimming thermostat, as for some reason I can't get the one you linked to me shipped over to Ireland. (Edit - Found it)

Also, what temperature should I have the bulb at to keep him comfortable?

Thanks again. George and I really appreciate it.

Fab! Yeah to avoid it sticking to him so much you can give it all a really good push down with your hand so it’s all firmly packed, when he goes digging it’ll stick lol, but it’ll stop it happening as much as he walks aboutas it’s new he’s likely giving it a curiosity taste, any he eats will pass so don’t worry, he should stop once he realises it’s not food.

So directly underneath you want a reading of 35-37c, ‘warmer end’ will range 29-32ish, middle 26-29, ‘cooler end’, around 23c. To achieve this on a dimmer, you can either set the thermostat around 23-24 and place the probe in the cooler end, or set it as high as you want it to go(35-37) and place the probe under the basking bulb, you can check the two positions and see which works best for you temperature ranges

 

[Secretos]

Fab! Yeah to avoid it sticking to him so much you can give it all a really good push down with your hand so it’s all firmly packed, when he goes digging it’ll stick lol, but it’ll stop it happening as much as he walks aboutas it’s new he’s likely giving it a curiosity taste, any he eats will pass so don’t worry, he should stop once he realises it’s not food.

So directly underneath you want a reading of 35-37c, ‘warmer end’ will range 29-32ish, middle 26-29, ‘cooler end’, around 23c. To achieve this on a dimmer, you can either set the thermostat around 23-24 and place the probe in the cooler end, or set it as high as you want it to go(35-37) and place the probe under the basking bulb, you can check the two positions and see which works best for you temperature ranges

No bother.

Thanks again for the information I really do appreciate it. Thanks for everything!

 

[COmtnLady]

It is NOT good that he is eating the bark. It doesn't digest and can cause gastric obstructions while trying to move through your tortoise's system. Coconut Bark has long fibers that can wrap around bits of the intestines, damaging the walls, too. Also, if he's eating bark he's not getting enough actual food.

All tortoise species NEED it to be warm and humid for the first two to three years of life. Yours is still in that stage.



Here is a copy of an answer from a different thread, explaining substrate construction to make consistent high humidity easier to maintain. The coco coir and fir bark are recommended because they have a many year record of safety.

I buy the coco coir in the 3-brick packages which are a little cheaper and store more easily than the loose type. I also do NOT buy the loose stuff because it is harder to get it soaked the first time , plus there is a "dusty" factor when you try to get it damp (that can cause you to cough like a fool for a bit - think what dusty coco coir does to the poor tortoises who are trying to live on it!). It also takes up a lot more space to store it in that form.

Then I use a very clean, definitely does not have any soap or other type of residue, five gallon bucket (I have two five gallon buckets dedicated to only tortoise substrate, nothing else).

Fill it about half-to-2/3 full of warm water and submerge one of the bricks. Allow it to soak until it has completely fallen apart, with no hard lumps left. You may have to add more water if it expands above the waterline.

Hand-wring-out as much of the water as possible and pack it tightly by hand into the bottom of the enclosure. Begin at one end and work your way to the other end, so that you can see if you got enough of the water out. Pack it tightly. You don't want standing water visible, especially not when you are finished.

Pack the coco coir about three inches deep.

Next put a two to three inch layer of Orchid Bark/Fir Bark on top and pat it down - this doesn't have to be packed as firmly, but pat it down until it feels even and solid. Some use Cyprus Mulch instead, which is just as good, but I don't care for the swampy smell of the Cyprus Mulch, or the longer splinters.

Close your enclosure up tight and let it acclimate for several hours, then measure the humidity and heat. If it is too humid when you check, vent it until it is in the range that's best for you tortoise with the lid closed. If not humid enough (usually 84% and 84F or higher for hatchlings of all species) add more warm water in the corners. Any time your gauges say the humidity is a percentage or two lower than you want, add some warm water to the corners again.

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

Hey, thank you. I've changed out his sand to a coco coir base and some coconut terrain bark. He is eating it, but I've heard that's normal, and it's normal for it to stick to him while it settles.

While it could be nothing, it could also be caused by problems in mineral balance. What are you feeding him and how do you supplement calcium? What kind of UVB do you have?

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

It is NOT good that he is eating the bark. It doesn't digest and can cause gastric obstructions while trying to move through your tortoise's system. Coconut Bark has long fibers that can wrap around bits of the intestines, damaging the walls, too. Also, if he's eating bark he's not getting enough actual food.

All tortoise species NEED it to be warm and humid for the first two to three years of life. Yours is still in that stage.



Here is a copy of an answer from a different thread, explaining substrate construction to make consistent high humidity easier to maintain. The coco coir and fir bark are recommended because they have a many year record of safety.

I believe it’s coir they’re using, not bark, obviously not ideal to be eating either way, but I’m hoping it’s just cause it’s new, I know so many like to give it a taste test lol

 

[COmtnLady]

... coco coir base and some coconut terrain bark.

The coconut bark is not good to eat. It has long fibers that damage internal things when swallowed, and it can cause impactions.

It needs to be FIR bark or Orchid Bark, or cypress bark. Not coconut bark.