Heating a large enclosure?

leigti

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Hello, I am setting up a new enclosure and I needed some suggestions on heat because what I'm trying so far hasn't worked. The enclosure is roughly 5' x 3' x 20" tall. I have tried 150 W incandescent bulb and I have tried CHE neither have worked. I know I will probably need to heat sources, my UV source is a strip light. It is an open topped enclosure. My goal is to keep one third of it at about 80 to 90°. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Oh and by the way I prefer not to hang the lights any lower, so they will be about 15 inches above the tortoise. Thank you.
 

G-stars

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Try a closed chamber. It will keep your heat and humidity inside. You will also save on your electric bill. Use a thermostat so it can shut itself off at the desired temperatures.
 

leigti

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Try a closed chamber. It will keep your heat and humidity inside. You will also save on your electric bill. Use a thermostat so it can shut itself off at the desired temperatures.
I thought about doing that, I thought about putting plexiglass down with holes for the lights. But how do you cut the Plexiglas? And should the fixtures touch the Plexiglas at all or will it melt it?
 

G-stars

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Plexiglass won't melt until +200F. So you should be ok there. I would put everything inside and not make holes for the lights. Also is this inside or outdoors?
 

G-stars

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I've also heard of people using aluminum foil on top to make an enclosed chamber. Although plexiglass would look nicer.
 

leigti

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Plexiglass won't melt until +200F. So you should be ok there. I would put everything inside and not make holes for the lights. Also is this inside or outdoors?
Indoors. 300 made money I would like to keep the lights outside up higher to take advantage of the increased height of the closure.
 

wellington

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The CHE or mvb will melt the plexi sitting on them. Line your cut outs with tinfoil. This will keep the plexi from melting. Those things are very hot when you put a temp gun right on them. Sitting that close to plexi, I wouldn't take the chance of them not melting.
 

Tom

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What species are you housing in this?

Quite simply, if you're temps are too cool you'll need to raise the wattage, lower the fixture, or raise the room temp.

A closed chamber easily solves all of these issues, but making a stock tank into a closed chamber isn't easy or attractive in most cases.
 

leigti

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What species are you housing in this?

Quite simply, if you're temps are too cool you'll need to raise the wattage, lower the fixture, or raise the room temp.

A closed chamber easily solves all of these issues, but making a stock tank into a closed chamber isn't easy or attractive in most cases.
One is for your Russian tortoise and the other one is for a Boxturtle. I was getting higher readings with 150 W incandesce sent "blue daylight" then with the CHP. I get confused with the spotlight versus floodlight versus incandescent.
 

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I recommend flood bulbs as they project the heat downward, but over a wider area. Spot bulbs concentrate the heat too much in one small spot and this can lead to carapace desiccation. Regular round bulbs can also work, but I'm able to use lower wattage bulbs with the floods since the heat is directed downward.

All three of the above are incandescent bulbs.

I don't like "colored" bulbs day or night, but "color corrected" bulbs that simulate real sunshine are fine for day time.

When you say CHP, are you talking about ceramic heating elements, or the CA Highway Patrol? Ha! Kidding...

I don't know what your reason is for wanting the bulbs to be at 15", but lowering them should solve your problem. If you don't want to lower them, you'll need higher wattage. Are you using the bulbs in aluminum domes to direct the heat and light downward?
 

Cowboy_Ken

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CHE's are not limited to 100watt. I've seen them up to 300watt. I have closed cambers simply for the ease of temp and humidity control, with the added benifits of storing my reptile books on top. ImageUploadedByTortoise Forum1410655241.751411.jpg
 

lismar79

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I have a pc of foam insulation board on mine for a lid. Works great and is light. I have a 3x6 enclosure and use one che, one 160 w powersun, and a solar rapter uv light for my sully. No areas are under 83.
 

leigti

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I recommend flood bulbs as they project the heat downward, but over a wider area. Spot bulbs concentrate the heat too much in one small spot and this can lead to carapace desiccation. Regular round bulbs can also work, but I'm able to use lower wattage bulbs with the floods since the heat is directed downward.

All three of the above are incandescent bulbs.

I don't like "colored" bulbs day or night, but "color corrected" bulbs that simulate real sunshine are fine for day time.

When you say CHP, are you talking about ceramic heating elements, or the CA Highway Patrol? Ha! Kidding...

I don't know what your reason is for wanting the bulbs to be at 15", but lowering them should solve your problem. If you don't want to lower them, you'll need higher wattage. Are you using the bulbs in aluminum domes to direct the heat and light downward?
Here's a picture of the work in progress. I didn't want to lower the bulb because I was afraid the dome would be blocking a lot of the UV. Maybe I'm just overly worried about something that doesn't really matter I don't know. I thought about putting to heat bulbs in one on either side of the UVB strip light.[what you said about spotlight versus floodlight is what I had thought, but of course then the guy at the pet shop tries to disband that idea. He also said that halogen spotlights or halogen floodlights do not give off heat while other people have told me they give off a lot of heat. I'm getting a little tired of buying things just to try them out and find out they don't work but I do realize that that is the way it's going to have to be until I get it right. Keep the suggestions coming everybody I really appreciate it. ATTACH=full]95755[/ATTACH]
 

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G-stars

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UVB bulbs are really an inconvenience in my opinion. I just take my guys out all day when weather permits and let them soak in free heating and uv rays. Now I'm guessing you probably can't or your weather isn't ideal for your tortoise. But I have read some people say that a couple of hours, twice a week is sufficient for their needs.
 

leigti

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UVB bulbs are really an inconvenience in my opinion. I just take my guys out all day when weather permits and let them soak in free heating and uv rays. Now I'm guessing you probably can't or your weather isn't ideal for your tortoise. But I have read some people say that a couple of hours, twice a week is sufficient for their needs.
I can take them out in the spring and summer and sometimes in the fall, but definitely not the winter. Otherwise I wouldn't bother with UVB bulbs either. But they can't make it five months without them so that's what I have to do unless I plan on moving to Florida and I don't.
 

Tom

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I didn't want to lower the bulb because I was afraid the dome would be blocking a lot of the UV.

what you said about spotlight versus floodlight is what I had thought, but of course then the guy at the pet shop tries to disband that idea. He also said that halogen spotlights or halogen floodlights do not give off heat while other people have told me they give off a lot of heat. I'm getting a little tired of buying things just to try them out and find out they don't work but I do realize that that is the way it's going to have to be until I get it right. Keep the suggestions coming everybody I really appreciate it.


Seriously??? You've been here almost a year and you are still taking advice from "the guy at the pet store". I feel like such a failure...


Of course halogen light bulbs give off heat. Has this pet store guy every raised a smooth tortoise? Any tortoise at all? Did he show you pics of how healthy his tortoise is?


You don't need to worry about the dome blocking some UV. It will be fine. However if that is not an HO bulb, its way too high to do any good anyway. Have you got a UV meter?
 
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