Help With First Ever Eastern Hermanns Tortoise

Greatlakescity14

New Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2025
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Raleigh, NC
Hi,

My first ever tortoise will be arriving on Friday. I have gone down a rabbit hole and I keep seeing posts about their hatchling dying. I know that sometimes it can happen, but can I get all the advice y'all have to avoid this?

I am listing what I have bought so far and would love opinions....

-Tortoise table from Amazon
-Arcadia Reptile Pro T5 Kit, Desert 12% UVB (plan to put 15 inches above tort)
-Flukers 100W Basking Bulb (with dome sun reptile lamp)
-Coco coir and reptibark (plan to layer coco coir on bottom and reptibark on top)
-Multiple hides
-Cuttlebone, terracotta dishes, moss, slate tile for feeding, mazuri LS, infrared thermometer and mini thermometers for enclosure

Questions I have:

1. There is a dark area of the tortoise table that will have no light/heat, is that okay? Its like a built in hut in the table.... I attached a pic for reference.
2. Should I be getting a CHE for nighttime?
3. Do I leave the lights on for only 12 hours a day?
4. What are the main food staples? Do I really get weeds from outside?
5. If using a succulent from local hardware store that was grown in fertilized soil, is that dangerous?

Thank you in advance!!
 

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Littleredfootbigredheart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2023
Messages
7,679
Location (City and/or State)
UK
Hi,

My first ever tortoise will be arriving on Friday. I have gone down a rabbit hole and I keep seeing posts about their hatchling dying. I know that sometimes it can happen, but can I get all the advice y'all have to avoid this?

I am listing what I have bought so far and would love opinions....

-Tortoise table from Amazon
-Arcadia Reptile Pro T5 Kit, Desert 12% UVB (plan to put 15 inches above tort)
-Flukers 100W Basking Bulb (with dome sun reptile lamp)
-Coco coir and reptibark (plan to layer coco coir on bottom and reptibark on top)
-Multiple hides
-Cuttlebone, terracotta dishes, moss, slate tile for feeding, mazuri LS, infrared thermometer and mini thermometers for enclosure

Questions I have:

1. There is a dark area of the tortoise table that will have no light/heat, is that okay? Its like a built in hut in the table.... I attached a pic for reference.
2. Should I be getting a CHE for nighttime?
3. Do I leave the lights on for only 12 hours a day?
4. What are the main food staples? Do I really get weeds from outside?
5. If using a succulent from local hardware store that was grown in fertilized soil, is that dangerous?

Thank you in advance!!
Hello! I’ll try to address your points step by step;

Those wooden tortoise houses really aren’t worth the money, I wish you’d found this place sooner😣there are a few ways you can try to adapt it though to make it more suitable. Babies need much higher humidity than adults, those set ups aren’t built to maintain it.
Perfect uvb choice.
Could you attach a photo of the basking light packaging and bulb?
Perfect substrate choice.
Don’t use the moss, it’s an impaction hazard. What kind of monitors are they? Digital or analog?

To answer some of your initial questions;
1. This is another reason they aren’t ideal, you want your whole enclosure properly lit during the day, you use plants, hides etc to create shady areas.
2. CHE’s aren’t usually necessary for this species unless your house gets pretty cold at night. They can come in handy during winter months if you choose not to brumate though.
3. Yes, your basking light and ambient lighting will be on the same 12hour timer. Your uvb will be on a separate 4hour timer from noon,
with the uv timing, every other source of information will tell you 12hours of uv. This is essentially an old fashioned rule that has stuck with a lot of keepers, it stems from the presumption that once the basking light or ambient lighting is on, ie the ‘sun’, that uv must coexist the same amount of hours. Fact is, uv rays only peak for a few hours a day, anyone with a uv meter will confirm this. No tortoise is blasted with 12 hours of uv in the wild, therefore it’s not necessary in captivity. Whilst not necessarily dangerous, it’s potentially annoying to the tortoise to have 12hours on uv in the enclosure.
The right uv bulbs are much more expensive to replace once their uv strength diminishes, so it’s definitely best having it on a 4 hour timer that provides them with all the uv they need, saving your bulb life.
Then some cheaper led lighting for your ambient 12 hour light cycle as well as the basking light on the same 12hrs, your ceramics(if needed) will run 24/7 on a thermostat, hope that all makes sense🙂
4. Safe weeds and fresh greens are definitely the main staple, you can forage weeds from outside provided you’re sure wherever you’re picking them from hasn’t had any pesticides or fertilisers in the area, also avoid public pathways or by roads. It can be much safer growing your own, there’s lots of different seed mixes online sold for tortoises. This stuff is also great to mix in if you can get your hands on some, it’s pricey but lasts a while in our experience. you soak each cube in water(measurements on packaging), you can add a little bit onto the fresh feed
IMG_3049.jpeg
5. Any plants bought from the store need to be planted in your own organic soil and quarantined for 6-12months. Only feed new growth.

Hopefully you’ll find these links a good read if you haven’t already

A great one for new comers;

I made this thread based on the forums care information and added visual aids, it covers correct equipment(uvb, heating bulbs, lighting etc), correct levels, importance of a closed chamber for younger tortoises(only way to maintain the humidity you need), appropriately maintaining the humidity, safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, and a really handy diet link to check out! If going with a greenhouse, the lower the ceiling height, whilst still allowing for recommended bulb height, the better! But I’ll add some more ideas below for closed chambers

This includes different closed chamber options, some definitely work better than others

Perhaps this idea in particular might work for you if you can’t return this enclosure
074F64EF-E23D-4BDD-A9E4-99F265A2DF89.jpeg

Toms care guide

Lastly, this one here is good to go over and keep on hand, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying😊

Hope this all helps! Please feel free to ask any further questions! Welcome to the forum🐢💚
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
68,435
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
Hi,

My first ever tortoise will be arriving on Friday. I have gone down a rabbit hole and I keep seeing posts about their hatchling dying. I know that sometimes it can happen, but can I get all the advice y'all have to avoid this?

I am listing what I have bought so far and would love opinions....

-Tortoise table from Amazon
-Arcadia Reptile Pro T5 Kit, Desert 12% UVB (plan to put 15 inches above tort)
-Flukers 100W Basking Bulb (with dome sun reptile lamp)
-Coco coir and reptibark (plan to layer coco coir on bottom and reptibark on top)
-Multiple hides
-Cuttlebone, terracotta dishes, moss, slate tile for feeding, mazuri LS, infrared thermometer and mini thermometers for enclosure

Questions I have:

1. There is a dark area of the tortoise table that will have no light/heat, is that okay? Its like a built in hut in the table.... I attached a pic for reference.
2. Should I be getting a CHE for nighttime?
3. Do I leave the lights on for only 12 hours a day?
4. What are the main food staples? Do I really get weeds from outside?
5. If using a succulent from local hardware store that was grown in fertilized soil, is that dangerous?

Thank you in advance!!
Hello and welcome.
-The tortoise table is unsuitable. It's too small for an adult and too open for a hatching. You won't be able to maintain the correct temps and humid for a baby with an open table. The wood will also quickly rot with the constant moisture. You need a large closed chamber.
-That's the best UV tube, but mount it 18-20 inches over the tortoise, and it's best to use a meter to dial it in perfectly. Only run it on a time for 3-4 hours mid day.
-The Flukers bulb is fine, but 100 watts might be too much for a closed chamber. Your thermometer will tell you.
- I would go with coco coir for a baby and orchid bark for an adult. There is no need and no useful purpose for mixing them. There is also no harm in mixing them if that is just how you prefer to do it.
-Lots of hiding areas is good.
-Cuttle bone and terra cotta dishes are great. Use the slate under the basking lamp, and use another terra cotta saucer for the food. This helps keep the food out of the substrate more. No moss. It does nothing, it will be eaten, and it can cause impaction. Mazuri LS is a great food, but they usually don't like it, so it requires a lengthy introduction period. All tortoises will eat it, but it takes time and patience to get them to eat it.

Your questions:
1. Yes, a dark hide area is fine, but that enclosure isn't suitable for your tortoise.
2. Not needed as long as your house stays around 65 or higher.
3. Ambient light and basking light on for 12 hours. You may want to adjust this up or down when going in to or out of brumation. UV tube only needs a few hours mid day.
4. "Natural' foods like the right types of weeds, mulberry, hibiscus, kudzu, or grape leaves, spineless opuntia pads, and that sort of thing are best. If you can't provide that type of thing, then grocery store greens will work if you add the correct amendments. Also add in some prepared foods like Mazuri, Arcadia Optimized 52 and Hikari Mulberrific.
5. Fertilizers are not the problem. The problem with store bought decorative plants is systemic pesticides. These are taken up into the plant's tissues and cannot be washed away. It takes months after repotting in "clean" soil for the poisons to dissipate. Grow your own fro seed or from cutting off of long established plants.

More info here:
 

Greatlakescity14

New Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2025
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Raleigh, NC
Hello! I’ll try to address your points step by step;

Those wooden tortoise houses really aren’t worth the money, I wish you’d found this place sooner😣there are a few ways you can try to adapt it though to make it more suitable. Babies need much higher humidity than adults, those set ups aren’t built to maintain it.
Perfect uvb choice.
Could you attach a photo of the basking light packaging and bulb?
Perfect substrate choice.
Don’t use the moss, it’s an impaction hazard. What kind of monitors are they? Digital or analog?

To answer some of your initial questions;
1. This is another reason they aren’t ideal, you want your whole enclosure properly lit during the day, you use plants, hides etc to create shady areas.
2. CHE’s aren’t usually necessary for this species unless your house gets pretty cold at night. They can come in handy during winter months if you choose not to brumate though.
3. Yes, your basking light and ambient lighting will be on the same 12hour timer. Your uvb will be on a separate 4hour timer from noon,
with the uv timing, every other source of information will tell you 12hours of uv. This is essentially an old fashioned rule that has stuck with a lot of keepers, it stems from the presumption that once the basking light or ambient lighting is on, ie the ‘sun’, that uv must coexist the same amount of hours. Fact is, uv rays only peak for a few hours a day, anyone with a uv meter will confirm this. No tortoise is blasted with 12 hours of uv in the wild, therefore it’s not necessary in captivity. Whilst not necessarily dangerous, it’s potentially annoying to the tortoise to have 12hours on uv in the enclosure.
The right uv bulbs are much more expensive to replace once their uv strength diminishes, so it’s definitely best having it on a 4 hour timer that provides them with all the uv they need, saving your bulb life.
Then some cheaper led lighting for your ambient 12 hour light cycle as well as the basking light on the same 12hrs, your ceramics(if needed) will run 24/7 on a thermostat, hope that all makes sense🙂
4. Safe weeds and fresh greens are definitely the main staple, you can forage weeds from outside provided you’re sure wherever you’re picking them from hasn’t had any pesticides or fertilisers in the area, also avoid public pathways or by roads. It can be much safer growing your own, there’s lots of different seed mixes online sold for tortoises. This stuff is also great to mix in if you can get your hands on some, it’s pricey but lasts a while in our experience. you soak each cube in water(measurements on packaging), you can add a little bit onto the fresh feed
View attachment 392987
5. Any plants bought from the store need to be planted in your own organic soil and quarantined for 6-12months. Only feed new growth.

Hopefully you’ll find these links a good read if you haven’t already

A great one for new comers;

I made this thread based on the forums care information and added visual aids, it covers correct equipment(uvb, heating bulbs, lighting etc), correct levels, importance of a closed chamber for younger tortoises(only way to maintain the humidity you need), appropriately maintaining the humidity, safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, and a really handy diet link to check out! If going with a greenhouse, the lower the ceiling height, whilst still allowing for recommended bulb height, the better! But I’ll add some more ideas below for closed chambers

This includes different closed chamber options, some definitely work better than others

Perhaps this idea in particular might work for you if you can’t return this enclosure
View attachment 392988

Toms care guide

Lastly, this one here is good to go over and keep on hand, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying😊

Hope this all helps! Please feel free to ask any further questions! Welcome to the forum🐢💚
Thanks sooooo much for the reply.
I’m attaching the picture of the lamp and bulb. I’ve read that clamp lamps are no good on here. Can I still use this lamp but just hang it above the enclosure??
Also I got digital thermometers that will read humidity and temp. How do you feel about those?

Thanks again, you guys rock!
 

Greatlakescity14

New Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2025
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Raleigh, NC
Hello and welcome.
-The tortoise table is unsuitable. It's too small for an adult and too open for a hatching. You won't be able to maintain the correct temps and humid for a baby with an open table. The wood will also quickly rot with the constant moisture. You need a large closed chamber.
-That's the best UV tube, but mount it 18-20 inches over the tortoise, and it's best to use a meter to dial it in perfectly. Only run it on a time for 3-4 hours mid day.
-The Flukers bulb is fine, but 100 watts might be too much for a closed chamber. Your thermometer will tell you.
- I would go with coco coir for a baby and orchid bark for an adult. There is no need and no useful purpose for mixing them. There is also no harm in mixing them if that is just how you prefer to do it.
-Lots of hiding areas is good.
-Cuttle bone and terra cotta dishes are great. Use the slate under the basking lamp, and use another terra cotta saucer for the food. This helps keep the food out of the substrate more. No moss. It does nothing, it will be eaten, and it can cause impaction. Mazuri LS is a great food, but they usually don't like it, so it requires a lengthy introduction period. All tortoises will eat it, but it takes time and patience to get them to eat it.

Your questions:
1. Yes, a dark hide area is fine, but that enclosure isn't suitable for your tortoise.
2. Not needed as long as your house stays around 65 or higher.
3. Ambient light and basking light on for 12 hours. You may want to adjust this up or down when going in to or out of brumation. UV tube only needs a few hours mid day.
4. "Natural' foods like the right types of weeds, mulberry, hibiscus, kudzu, or grape leaves, spineless opuntia pads, and that sort of thing are best. If you can't provide that type of thing, then grocery store greens will work if you add the correct amendments. Also add in some prepared foods like Mazuri, Arcadia Optimized 52 and Hikari Mulberrific.
5. Fertilizers are not the problem. The problem with store bought decorative plants is systemic pesticides. These are taken up into the plant's tissues and cannot be washed away. It takes months after repotting in "clean" soil for the poisons to dissipate. Grow your own fro seed or from cutting off of long established plants.

More info here:
Thank you so so so much for all this info. I’m going to return the tortoise table…. What do you suggest I get for the baby? I’ve heard the glass aquarium like tanks keep in humidity but they go crazy trying to escape since they can see out. Could I get the glass aquarium but black out the sides or put something up so the baby can’t see out?

And for clarification…. The UVB light should only be on a 4 hour timer but basking light on a 12?
and i should be buying an additional ambient light?

thanks in advance!!!!
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2023
Messages
7,679
Location (City and/or State)
UK
Thanks sooooo much for the reply.
I’m attaching the picture of the lamp and bulb. I’ve read that clamp lamps are no good on here. Can I still use this lamp but just hang it above the enclosure??
Also I got digital thermometers that will read humidity and temp. How do you feel about those?

Thanks again, you guys rock!
No problem at all! The photo hasn’t attached but if it’s the bulb I’m thinking it is, it should be fine🙂as for the clamp lamps, you can still use them as fittings yes, just don’t solely rely on the clamp fixture, you definitely want it hung securely with something.
Yes digital is the way to go so no worries there!😊
Thank you so so so much for all this info. I’m going to return the tortoise table…. What do you suggest I get for the baby? I’ve heard the glass aquarium like tanks keep in humidity but they go crazy trying to escape since they can see out. Could I get the glass aquarium but black out the sides or put something up so the baby can’t see out?

And for clarification…. The UVB light should only be on a 4 hour timer but basking light on a 12?
and i should be buying an additional ambient light?

thanks in advance!!!!
Tanks do hold humidity better, but they’re still open top, so do need some sort of topper adding, it can be tricky creating a top that holds the lighting within the chamber itself for a glass tank, but not impossible, some place storage boxes over them, some people have even made closed chambers out of large storage bins, utilising the lid, that can be a cost effective alternative, perhaps you can check this out

Vivs are generally the best choice, but can be pricey/tricky to get your hands on depending where you are.
@Markw84 makes pvc smart enclosures, they’re as good as you can get.

Yes uvb on separate 4hour timer.

Basking light 12hours, with some ambient lighting on the same timer. You can use a regular screw in led or some strip lighting(colour range 5500-6500k) for the ambient light.🐢💚
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
68,435
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
Thank you so so so much for all this info. I’m going to return the tortoise table…. What do you suggest I get for the baby? I’ve heard the glass aquarium like tanks keep in humidity but they go crazy trying to escape since they can see out. Could I get the glass aquarium but black out the sides or put something up so the baby can’t see out?

And for clarification…. The UVB light should only be on a 4 hour timer but basking light on a 12?
and i should be buying an additional ambient light?

thanks in advance!!!!
To save money, you can make an enclosure out of a large tote or an aquarium and use a portable green house tent to close it all in. The main premise is that we are greatly reducing circulation so that we don't lose all of our heat and humidity up and into the room. All of the heating and lighting needs to be contained INSIDE the enclosure. The best possible way to do this is with a Smart Enclosure from MarkW. Animal Plastics also makes great enclosures, but the wait time is months.

Correct on your time question. 4 hours of UV is plenty. 12 hours for ambient and basking. Many people with temperate species, like me, prefer to mimic the natural day light cycles. So 14 hours in summer and down to 10 hours in winter leading into brumation. I adjust my timers as needed to mimic the day length outside.

Yes, you should be buying additional ambient lighting. Make it super bright and "sunny" in there.
 

Greatlakescity14

New Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2025
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Raleigh, NC
Hi,

My first ever tortoise will be arriving on Friday. I have gone down a rabbit hole and I keep seeing posts about their hatchling dying. I know that sometimes it can happen, but can I get all the advice y'all have to avoid this?

I am listing what I have bought so far and would love opinions....

-Tortoise table from Amazon
-Arcadia Reptile Pro T5 Kit, Desert 12% UVB (plan to put 15 inches above tort)
-Flukers 100W Basking Bulb (with dome sun reptile lamp)
-Coco coir and reptibark (plan to layer coco coir on bottom and reptibark on top)
-Multiple hides
-Cuttlebone, terracotta dishes, moss, slate tile for feeding, mazuri LS, infrared thermometer and mini thermometers for enclosure

Questions I have:

1. There is a dark area of the tortoise table that will have no light/heat, is that okay? Its like a built in hut in the table.... I attached a pic for reference.
2. Should I be getting a CHE for nighttime?
3. Do I leave the lights on for only 12 hours a day?
4. What are the main food staples? Do I really get weeds from outside?
5. If using a succulent from local hardware store that was grown in fertilized soil, is that dangerous?

Thank you in advance!!
Hi!! So I got my enclosure mostly set up. I am waiting to get a humidity hide today which will go in the more empty space.
I’m planning to hang the UVB light off to the side of the warm side. The big light closer to the UVB is the basking light & the smaller one on the other side is a LED light to make it more “sunny”
All suggestions are welcome!!!!!
@Tom @Littleredfootbigredheart
 

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Littleredfootbigredheart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2023
Messages
7,679
Location (City and/or State)
UK
Hi!! So I got my enclosure mostly set up. I am waiting to get a humidity hide today which will go in the more empty space.
I’m planning to hang the UVB light off to the side of the warm side. The big light closer to the UVB is the basking light & the smaller one on the other side is a LED light to make it more “sunny”
All suggestions are welcome!!!!!
@Tom @Littleredfootbigredheart
Yay nice! I think my only suggestion is to monitor how humidity is looking but if you’re struggling to maintain it you may need to look for a bigger base/box, one that preferably fits the cover a bit better, I’m thinking the ratio of cover to base might make humidity a bit of a battle because there’s a lot of empty space under there, the more substrate that fills the surface area the better, but this is already looking so much better than the original set up plan, temps are a bit low in the photos but I’m guessing that’s because you’ve had the cover open to take them, humidity is looking good for now, it’s certainly safe for a baby till you figure out a larger base at some point🐢💚
 

Greatlakescity14

New Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2025
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Raleigh, NC
Yay nice! I think my only suggestion is to monitor how humidity is looking but if you’re struggling to maintain it you may need to look for a bigger base/box, one that preferably fits the cover a bit better, I’m thinking the ratio of cover to base might make humidity a bit of a battle because there’s a lot of empty space under there, the more substrate that fills the surface area the better, but this is already looking so much better than the original set up plan, temps are a bit low in the photos but I’m guessing that’s because you’ve had the cover open to take them, humidity is looking good for now, it’s certainly safe for a baby till you figure out a larger base at some point🐢💚
Thank you sooo much for all of your help! I did have the top open so I think that may be why temps were a bit low. What are the recommended temps again on cool vs warm side? Should the humidity be the same on both sides as well?

I left it on overnight to monitor temps.... I did struggle a bit with humidity. Maybe I can find a smaller greenhouse top or get a longer plastic tub. You think thatll help, right?

Also, the temp under my basking bulb is reading about 101/102. Should I raise it a bit? I think I remember reading thats a bit too hot.

Thanks again!!!!
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
68,435
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
Thank you sooo much for all of your help! I did have the top open so I think that may be why temps were a bit low. What are the recommended temps again on cool vs warm side? Should the humidity be the same on both sides as well?

I left it on overnight to monitor temps.... I did struggle a bit with humidity. Maybe I can find a smaller greenhouse top or get a longer plastic tub. You think thatll help, right?

Also, the temp under my basking bulb is reading about 101/102. Should I raise it a bit? I think I remember reading thats a bit too hot.

Thanks again!!!!
All of this looks good. All bases covered. Nice job! 👍

I'd put a flat rock of some sort under the basking area. Check the basking temp by laying a digital thermometer on its back under the heat lamp and letting it cook for an hour or more. This will tell you how hot your tortoise's carapace is getting under the lamp.
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2023
Messages
7,679
Location (City and/or State)
UK
Thank you sooo much for all of your help! I did have the top open so I think that may be why temps were a bit low. What are the recommended temps again on cool vs warm side? Should the humidity be the same on both sides as well?

I left it on overnight to monitor temps.... I did struggle a bit with humidity. Maybe I can find a smaller greenhouse top or get a longer plastic tub. You think thatll help, right?

Also, the temp under my basking bulb is reading about 101/102. Should I raise it a bit? I think I remember reading thats a bit too hot.

Thanks again!!!!
No problem at all! That’s probably why yes but just to rehash, basking temperature(directly under bulb) 95-100f, warmer end will be around 85-90, middle 80, cooler end 75, then the whole thing can cool off to around 70 at night.

You could try raising bulb slightly, but I’d follow toms suggestion above with the monitor first.

Yeah a smaller cover or bigger base should help the humidity issue🐢💚
 
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