humidity question

[hpfirework]

What is the optimal humidity for a 4 month old Greek tortoise?

Many people stress the importance of not getting too dry, but is it like the damper the better? My tortoise is shedding skin. Relatively large pieces from the skin close to the shell. The new skin under it is lighter in color. I don't know if it's too damp. The hygrometer says 80%.

 

[GBtortoises]

Much of it depends upon how damp you mean. A hygrometer will only measure ambient air humidity, not the moisture content in the substrate. Moisture meters that can be used to check substrate moisture content are available and range in price from very cheap to very expensive. I cna't speak for their accuracy because I have never used one to check substrate moisture. I go by touch and feel.
80% ambient humidity is fine occasionally if good air exchange is present. Consistently damp air without fresh air exchange will eventually lead to fungal and mold problems, along with the tortoise developing possible respiratory problems.
Most Greeks will do fine within a humidity range of 55-70%. This can usually be acheived by misting the substrate once or twice daily and stirring it up and heavily misting it once or twice a week.
The tortoise shouldn't be kept on a constantly damp substrate, but it also shouldn't become so dry that it's dusty either. Another good way to ensure that the tortoise is exposed to some moist substrate is to have a hide box that is somewhat damp inside, along with one that is dryer so that the tortoise can use whichever one it feels the need to.
The skin color doesn't have as much to do with dampness as it does being new growth, especially in a very young tortoise.
I also wouldn't rely completely on what the hygrometer is reading and go more by touch and feel when it comes to substrate moisture and to some extent, humidity content in the air. The hygrometer can only measure humidity within the immediate area that it is located in. Some types are notorious for being inaccurate by as much as 10% either way, sometimes more. They can be used to give a good general idea of conditions but it's better to learn how the substrate feels when dry and moist and to have an idea of what the ambient humidity is in the room or general area where your tortoise is being kept. It's difficult to maintain humidity and temperatures at levels much different than the room or outdoor area that the tortoises enclosure is located in.

 

[firework]

Thanks, this is very helpful

 

[GBtortoises]

Anytime! Hopefully some other Greek keepers will chime in too and give their opinion. I think it's always good to get some different views and use a combination of what you feel works best for you.

 

[firework]

By the way, does your torts like Cactus?

Mine is a bit picky on food. He doesn't like stems, only eat the leafy parts of greens. He doesn't like calsuim powder on his food, he avoids the white specks. He doesn't like Cactus. I drove half an hour to the nearest hispanic food store just to get him some Cactus pads. He simply refused to taste it.

Anytime! Hopefully some other Greek keepers will chime in too and give their opinion. I think it's always good to get some different views and use a combination of what you feel works best for you.

 

[GBtortoises]

Most of mine will eat cactus pads but for the most part, like most foods, it seems to come down to individual preferences. Some of mine devour cactus, others take a nibble and move on.

With young and small tortoises I cut the pads lengthwise in narrow strips. This seems to entice many of them to at least try it. It probably brings out the scent better when the inside of the pad is exposed.

Most tortoises do eat just the leaves and leave thicker stems, that's perfectly normal. Often times adult tortoises will devour an entire plant but young tortoises usually will just eat the leaves, maybe occasionally trying some bites of a stem too.

You can easily grow your own cactus from a pad rather than constantly buying it. It does take a while for a pad to take hold and grow large enough to supply several pads but once it starts there always seem to be plenty of pads available to feed.

Calcium is very important to a young growing tortoise so it should be offered somehow. If not on their food then at least in a shallow dish for them to consume on their own. That is actually the only way it's offered to mine of all species, in a seperate dish. They consume it as they need it in the amount that they need.
If neither works you may want to make a thin milky solution out of water and calcium powder and dip some of the tortoises food in it. In this way the calcium is a very thin coating on the food, not dry and chalky and the tortoise will often eat it without noticing much of a difference. I've done it in the occasional situation where a tortoise won't eat any calcium at all by other means. Might be worth a try if it become necessary.