I adopted a grown leopard

Roy's Mom

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I adopted a leopard this past summer from the San Diego Tortoise Society. They did not have a history on him and are guessing he's around 14 years old.
I did so much research before getting him and continue to do so. He did fantastic from August through October and then developed an upper respiratory infection. After 3 weeks of baytril injections and soaks he recovered (thank goodness!) But lately he has progressively become more lethargic and I have been trying to figure out why. I landed on this forum just the other day and have finally found all my answers!! It is so challenging to find accurate information and this forum has seemed to nail it. Until I found you guys, everything I read said that a temperature between 70-80 degrees was appropriate. No wonder he is not himself!
I want this little man to thrive and live a long, happy life. I am so excited to have found this resource.

Diet: When he first arrived I had planted his outdoor enclosure with native grasses, hibiscus, succulents, cactus, roses and also offered him a mix of Bermuda grass hay, mixed leaf (grocery store), dandelions. He would eat all of those items and graze in the yard. I sprinkle calcium powder on his food twice a week.
He has gradually gone from eating all those items to strictly romaine every few days. But after reading the posts (for the past straight 36 hours) I realize it is because his enclosure is completely inappropriate. I feel awful! But I am on the move to fix it.

Habitat: He is currently in our garage, in a wood pen with an electrical heater on the outside of it. He has 2 bulbs over the enclosure. One is a red heat lamp for night and the other is (I think) a 100 or 120 watt for the day. Part of the enclosure is covered and the substrate is Bermuda hay which he burrows under.

Changes to be made: Everything! We are going to build a hidebox such as the one Tom posted. I don't want this single post to get too long, so I will post additional ones with specific questions and pictures of the progress.
Thank you all so much for your insight and experience. I have attached the only picture I could find at the moment. This is Roy this past summer.
Does anyone know what type of leopard he is? Do you think he is around 14 years old? He is 10.5 inches long and due to his pyramiding, is about 7 inches in height.

IMG_2450_sRGB.JPG
 
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Yvonne G

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He's a beauty, isn't he? You're lucky to have adopted him.

One thing to keep in mind. Some leopard tortoises are allergic to Baytril, but since Roy has been through the whole treatment, he's obviously not.

It is my experience that SOME leopards hibernate and most do not. It's a diverse area where they come from, and some of them come from the colder parts. I have one that was given to me by a zoo keeper when she retired and moved into an apartment. She told me that "Tortellini" always snuggled into a corner of her kitchen and stayed there all winter. Naturally, this isn't an ideal spot to hibernate. She does almost the same thing here. She picks the coolest corner of the leopard shed and just stays there all winter. I've had her for about 5 years now, and this is what she does every winter. She seems perfectly healthy and has a good weight.

What I'm trying to say is maybe Roy is one of those whose line comes from the colder climate. But since he's been through R.I. it really isn't a good idea to allow him to not eat and be inactive. Do everything you can to encourage him to stay awake and active. And because he has an affinity for romaine, stop including it in his diet. We normally allow a dip in temperature at night, but because you're trying to keep him up and active, try to keep his nighttime temperature up in the 80's.

Good luck with Roy, and please keep us informed as to his progress. I'd love to see some current pictures of him too.
 

Kasia

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I adopted a leopard this past summer from the San Diego Tortoise Society. They did not have a history on him and are guessing he's around 14 years old.
I did so much research before getting him and continue to do so. He did fantastic from August through October and then developed an upper respiratory infection. After 3 weeks of baytril injections and soaks he recovered (thank goodness!) But lately he has progressively become more lethargic and I have been trying to figure out why. I landed on this forum just the other day and have finally found all my answers!! It is so challenging to find accurate information and this forum has seemed to nail it. Until I found you guys, everything I read said that a temperature between 70-80 degrees was appropriate. No wonder he is not himself!
I want this little man to thrive and live a long, happy life. I am so excited to have found this resource.

Diet: When he first arrived I had planted his outdoor enclosure with native grasses, hibiscus, succulents, cactus, roses and also offered him a mix of Bermuda grass hay, mixed leaf (grocery store), dandelions. He would eat all of those items and graze in the yard. I sprinkle calcium powder on his food twice a week.
He has gradually gone from eating all those items to strictly romaine every few days. But after reading the posts (for the past straight 36 hours) I realize it is because his enclosure is completely inappropriate. I feel awful! But I am on the move to fix it.

Habitat: He is currently in our garage, in a wood pen with an electrical heater on the outside of it. He has 2 bulbs over the enclosure. One is a red heat lamp for night and the other is (I think) a 100 or 120 watt for the day. Part of the enclosure is covered and the substrate is Bermuda hay which he burrows under.

Changes to be made: Everything! We are going to build a hidebox such as the one Tom posted. I don't want this single post to get too long, so I will post additional ones with specific questions and pictures of the progress.
Thank you all so much for your insight and experience. I have attached the only picture I could find at the moment. This is Roy this past summer.
Does anyone know what type of leopard he is? Do you think he is around 14 years old? He is 10.5 inches long and due to his pyramiding, is about 7 inches in height.

View attachment 198518
I agree with Yvonne, your leo is a beauty and I would say he is quite smooth looking:) Glad that your a good keeper and you`re willing to make appropriate changes, wish you all the best, keep him warm and us updated. If raising temps will not help I would advise a Vet visit. Maybe his got respiratory infection again. Does he have troubles breathing?:)
 

Gillian M

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Sorry, can't help you much but one thing I can say: you have an adorable tort.:D GOD bless.
 

wellington

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I have a female like Yvonne is talking about. However, I wouldn't call it hibernating as its more like a slow down. She does sleep more and eat less, but she is still awake and will eat, drink and roam some, just not as much as my males and not always on a daily basis. I would not treat a leopard as if it's hibernating or let/force a leopard to hibernate.
 

Slow and steady

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I have no advice for you, as you seem to be addressing the situation, and the others have covered the rest. I would like to say congratulations on your adoption, and welcome to the forum. Like you, I've found it to be an invaluable resource. Thank you forum and members!
 

beachylivin

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Hi there! I am an animal keeper, I also have a leopard tortoise at home, three deserts where I work and live in San Diego. One thing I'd want to address right away is that if your tortoise is in your garage for any extended period of time (2 weeks+) it will need a power sun bulb- something that emits UVA, UVB, visible light and heat. Power sun is a brand but there are other brands that sell the exact same bulbs. They are expensive ($50-$70) but are a necesssity to have if your tortoise is inside. It will not be able to metabolize food or more importantly, it's calcium powder properly, without UVA/UVB. Also, it will be lethargic without UV. I live in east county, right now it is far too cold for a non-hibernating tortoise to be outside, mine is in a large space in my guest room with a power sun AND a separate heat lamp that is on at night. Invest in light timers, they make things so much easier!

Leopard tortoises should not be hibernating. They may slow down but should not hibernate. As long as your tortoise has proper heat it should eat throughout winter. Since your tortoise is not eating, may I ask if X-rays were done? Did your tortoise have access to small pebbles or stones/grit while outside? Tortoise baths should be 15minutes long at 86-90 degrees. In the past my personal tortoise has stopped eating due to eating pebbles, which is natural, and a bath does the trick. I also have three desert tortoises at work. One really loves to slow down during winter but we make sure to wake him up daily. He skips a couple meals a week, but eats and poops regularly.

It sounds like you give him a great diet! I would make sure in your mixed greens that there are no spinach. My leopard loves greens but needs to eat more grasses/hays so we constantly battle when it comes to that. Also, look in to Mazuri brand pellets. That is what professional zoos and aquariums add to tortoise food because it essentially ensures they are getting the nutrients they need. I add it to my tortoise food daily.

I would prioritize your tortoise ALWAYS having access to a warm dry spot at night, every night. Make sure not to put houses on concrete or other cold surfaces like that unless it has an outdoor approved heat pad. Working with animals, tortoises included, I've experienced just about everything that can happen with these guys. Best of luck and private message me if needed! Your tortoise is beautiful and seems like it lucked out with such a caring owner!!
 

beachylivin

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Romaine lettuce has little nutritional value to reptiles that require high fiber and/or dark leafy diets. It causes watery, loose stools and often times tortoises want romaine over the greens that are actually good for them and it can be hard to ween them off. It is best not to feed romaine unless you are weaning your tortoise onto a different, better diet. Most reputable zoos do NOT and will not feed romaine to tortoises unless they are working with Galapagos tortoise species. However you will see romaine fed in pet stores as it's usually less expensive than quality greens in larger amounts. I work with sea turtles as well, sea turtles LOVE squid, but it is high in phosphorous and low in calcium so it's usually not regularly fed unless you are trying to get calories into a rehabbing animal. Tricky shells I tell ya!

Although desert and leopards are from different continents, it might be worth it to take a look at US fish and wildlife captive care and husbandry requirement for desert tortoises. The care is almost identical.


Also, being in the animal care field, I have learned that although we have wonderful vets in San Diego I cannot stress how important it is that your exoctic animal (tortoise) is taken to an exotic vet.
 

cmacusa3

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Romaine lettuce has little nutritional value to reptiles that require high fiber and/or dark leafy diets. It causes watery, loose stools and often times tortoises want romaine over the greens that are actually good for them and it can be hard to ween them off. It is best not to feed romaine unless you are weaning your tortoise onto a different, better diet. Most reputable zoos do NOT and will not feed romaine to tortoises unless they are working with Galapagos tortoise species. However you will see romaine fed in pet stores as it's usually less expensive than quality greens in larger amounts. I work with sea turtles as well, sea turtles LOVE squid, but it is high in phosphorous and low in calcium so it's usually not regularly fed unless you are trying to get calories into a rehabbing animal. Tricky shells I tell ya!

Although desert and leopards are from different continents, it might be worth it to take a look at US fish and wildlife captive care and husbandry requirement for desert tortoises. The care is almost identical.


Also, being in the animal care field, I have learned that although we have wonderful vets in San Diego I cannot stress how important it is that your exoctic animal (tortoise) is taken to an exotic vet.
Thank you, I mix it in with my greens and haven't had any issues. Mine eat any all all food I put in front of them. All they are fed is greens, grass and weeds. I've never given any fruit.
 
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Slow and steady

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Beachylivin, I've always understood everything you mention to be associated with iceberg lettuce, not romaine. Until finding this forum a few months back, my first leopard's supplemental diet consisted primarily of romaine, with other greens and veggies making up the rest. I say supplemental because she has free grazed the back yard for the past 10 years. Her diet, and that of my new additions has changed to a healthier, varied diet, but I still incorporate romaine. Thanks for your explanation.
 

Roy's Mom

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Wow! Thank you everyone for the above information and continued advice. I really appreciate it, as does Roy!
 
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