Indent on bottom shell
- Thread starter Jg1
- Start date
Hello! I don't see anything wrong. The dark area in the middle is where yolk sac was attached and absorbed - it should get a normal look soon. You can circle the concerning area, maybe I'm looking at the wrong spot 
How old is your redfoot, how much does it weight now?
How old is your redfoot, how much does it weight now?
Hi thank you so much I was main concern about the spot that I circled with the dots and the indent on the shell, and roughly around 2 months and 70 gramsHello! I don't see anything wrong. The dark area in the middle is where yolk sac was attached and absorbed - it should get a normal look soon. You can circle the concerning area, maybe I'm looking at the wrong spot
How old is your redfoot, how much does it weight now?
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It's better seen now. I can't tell for sure, but these spots look like a normal pigmentation to me. Indents between scutes look normal to me too.
Weight is fine. Keep a weekly track to make sure it's increasing.
Calling @ZEROPILOT to the rescue
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the forum! Your baby is adorable and I agree that nothing looks too concerning here!
I don’t suppose you mind giving us a little information on how you’re keeping your baby? I only ask because it’s great for us to know how new members are raising them and I’m always interested in seeing people’s red foot set ups
I’m adding a bit of information on the correct equipment because I know how easy it is for pet stores to have potentially sold you the wrong stuff when starting a new baby, not saying that’s the case here, just like to cover all bases in case it helps
What kind of lighting is it you’re using? If using a light emitting heat source it should be an incandescent floodlight.
Always avoid anything labelled halogen or mercury vapour
What’s your uv situation? T5 fluorescent tube lights are what’s recommend, the trouble with the compact/coil uv bulbs is they don’t give out enough uv and can actually hurt the tortoises eyes. Uv can be on a separate 4hour timer from noon
How’s their diet been? I’ve got a great list I could share with you if you need help with some ideas for variety! We definitely found it handy when coming up with a meal plan for ours
Red foot’s don’t necessarily need a ‘basking area’ they aren’t typically a basking species coming from the forest floor(some do though, it depends on the individual) it’s better to have an overall ambient temperature range of 80-86(82-84 being optimal)temps shouldn’t go below 80 for one as young as yours both night&day.
Personally we rely on CHE’s(ceramic heat emitters) as our heat source 24/7, on thermostats, then have some ambient lighting on a 12hour timer, we’ve found it’s easier in keeping temps nice and stable so thought I’d mention it
Obviously your little one needs 80% humidity 24/7 to thrive, the right substrate and a good closed chamber set up goes a long way in making this work.
We personally keep our red foot on orchid bark, we focus on the under layer of the substrate being nice and damp to create the humidity, then the top layer being dry, though to stop that top layer getting too dry because you don’t want dusty substrate, we mix it now n then, which also helps gives a humidity boost without extra waterto maintain our humidity we simply pour some lukewarm water into the corners of the substrate, not loads! Just enough to dampen the whole under layer. You can keep an eye on your monitors&substrate to do the pours as and when needed, which in a good closed chamber set up, you shouldn’t have to do loadsspraying the top only ever focuses on getting that top layer wet, which can then leave them more vulnerable to fungal infections.
Substrate wise never add any kind of moss, that’s something some stores think nothing of, but it can actually be pretty dangerous.
I’d love to see a pic of your set up if you didn’t mind?
Hopefully you find some of this helpful, let me know if you fancy taking a look at the food list and if you’re interested in looking at any of the products I’ve mentioned, I can add those for you too
I don’t suppose you mind giving us a little information on how you’re keeping your baby? I only ask because it’s great for us to know how new members are raising them and I’m always interested in seeing people’s red foot set ups
I’m adding a bit of information on the correct equipment because I know how easy it is for pet stores to have potentially sold you the wrong stuff when starting a new baby, not saying that’s the case here, just like to cover all bases in case it helps
What kind of lighting is it you’re using? If using a light emitting heat source it should be an incandescent floodlight.
Always avoid anything labelled halogen or mercury vapour
What’s your uv situation? T5 fluorescent tube lights are what’s recommend, the trouble with the compact/coil uv bulbs is they don’t give out enough uv and can actually hurt the tortoises eyes. Uv can be on a separate 4hour timer from noon
How’s their diet been? I’ve got a great list I could share with you if you need help with some ideas for variety! We definitely found it handy when coming up with a meal plan for ours
Red foot’s don’t necessarily need a ‘basking area’ they aren’t typically a basking species coming from the forest floor(some do though, it depends on the individual) it’s better to have an overall ambient temperature range of 80-86(82-84 being optimal)temps shouldn’t go below 80 for one as young as yours both night&day.
Personally we rely on CHE’s(ceramic heat emitters) as our heat source 24/7, on thermostats, then have some ambient lighting on a 12hour timer, we’ve found it’s easier in keeping temps nice and stable so thought I’d mention it
Obviously your little one needs 80% humidity 24/7 to thrive, the right substrate and a good closed chamber set up goes a long way in making this work.
We personally keep our red foot on orchid bark, we focus on the under layer of the substrate being nice and damp to create the humidity, then the top layer being dry, though to stop that top layer getting too dry because you don’t want dusty substrate, we mix it now n then, which also helps gives a humidity boost without extra water
to maintain our humidity we simply pour some lukewarm water into the corners of the substrate, not loads! Just enough to dampen the whole under layer. You can keep an eye on your monitors&substrate to do the pours as and when needed, which in a good closed chamber set up, you shouldn’t have to do loadsspraying the top only ever focuses on getting that top layer wet, which can then leave them more vulnerable to fungal infections.Substrate wise never add any kind of moss, that’s something some stores think nothing of, but it can actually be pretty dangerous.
I’d love to see a pic of your set up if you didn’t mind?
Hopefully you find some of this helpful, let me know if you fancy taking a look at the food list and if you’re interested in looking at any of the products I’ve mentioned, I can add those for you too
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Babies do need time to form what will be the final shape of their shells.
I've had some severely "smooshed" looking Babies end up beautifully formed tortoises.
At this stage of development I wouldn't worry at all as long as the tortoise is eating well and doesn't show any signs of stress or illness
I've had some severely "smooshed" looking Babies end up beautifully formed tortoises.
At this stage of development I wouldn't worry at all as long as the tortoise is eating well and doesn't show any signs of stress or illness
