Is my redfooted dying?

lookalikehuuh

New Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Messages
10
Location (City and/or State)
San Diego, CA
Hello All,

Apologies in advance for the wall of text....

I am brand new to this forum, as I found it while frantically searching for answers for my son's little red footed tortoise. We acquired 2 baby red footed tortoises for my 9 year old son back in June of this year. My son is very responsible and is already in charge of feeding our 2 family dogs in the evenings. Initially they were both around the same size but one has definitely grown much faster than the other. They are named Deadpool (smaller one) and Wolverine (Larger one), kids picked the name

They both currently live in a zoo med Tortoise box. We have a bowl for their food, separate bowl with shallow amounts of purified drinking water that we soak them in 2x a day. There is a heater lamp with a small hiding area on one side and a UVB light in the middle of the mesh enclosure side. No heating pads or anything like that. We do have a "repti fogger" to help keep humidity levels up since we were struggling with keeping humidity above 50% even when spraying the substrate down multiple times a day.

Daily diet wise we provide them with lots of leavfy greens like Kale, green leaf lettuce etc, we also include a bit of yellow squash, bell peppers, cucumber, and a fruit like strawberries or blueberries (every other day for the fruit). About once every week we do provide them some protein, usually in the form of pre-packaged superworms. We would always sprinkle all of the food with the Rephasy superfoods superveggie powder. We also have a cuddlebone as well as a calcium block in the enclosure (although I have never seen them touch either of them).

On Monday based on recommendation from the same reptile shop where we purchased the tortoises we provided them with 2 frozen pinky mice instead of the superworms we usually feed for their protein. 1 of the pinkies was fully consumed and parts of the 2nd one were also consumed. We aren't sure which one of the 2 tortoises consumed the pinkies since we were out of the house dropping the kids off at school and when we returned both were back in their hideout digesting.

In the mornings we do water/food changes every day before the kids leave for school. As soon as Deadpool would see us remove the food bowl he would come out of the hideout and wait for the new food to be placed back in. My son would then soak both the tortoises and Deadpool would then bolt to the food while Wolverine woudl go back to his hideout and would come out later in the morning to eat. Yesterday we noticed that Deadpool wasn't actively moving around like he normally would in the morning. Deadpool is the early riser and Wolverine is the lazy haha! We just figured maybe he had a late night and would start moving around later. My son did his ritual of placing both tortoises in their shallow pool of water for their nightime soak but i noticed Deadpool had not moved from it. Usually he will soak for like 30sec to a min and runs out then immediately runs to the food bowl to eat, its his routine.

Since then Deadpool really hasn't moved from where we place him and his head/legs are just out of the shell and laying on the substrate. I did notice his shell is much softer than Wolverine's shell which I hadn't really noticed before, I've been doing some reading and it sounds like MBD, but its really strange that 1 of them is apparently thriving while the other is apparently near death. My wife did mention that Deadpools shell had felt somewhat soft about a week ago but when I went to feel it, it felt pretty hard to me. So maybe I missed something that day? I mean they eat the same foods, in the same enclosure, lighting, same schedule. Kind of racking my brain thinking of what we did wrong. The only thing that was different was those pinky mice we provided them on Monday, could that have caused Wolverine's issues maybe an intestinal blockage or something?

I am afraid it might be too late for us to save Deadpool, but can anyone suggest what we have done wrong so we can help keep Wolverine healthy for the long run? We are considering taking Wolverine to the vet to see if there is anything they can help us with but we also don't want to spend money needlessly if there isn't going to be anything a vet can do for Deadpool.

I've included 2 pics, 1 of the enclosure setup and another of the 2 tortoises next to each other. You can see Deadpool on top with his beak on the floor and his front legs just laying there. Below you see Wolverine wondering why I pulled him out of his comfy hiding spot.
 

Attachments

  • 20240918_095535.jpg
    20240918_095535.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 2
  • 20240918_095701.jpg
    20240918_095701.jpg
    574.6 KB · Views: 4

The_Four_Toed_Edward

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2024
Messages
1,783
Location (City and/or State)
Finland
Welcome to the forum!

It is sad that you have been given the wrong information, but don't give up yet. You are in the right place. First of all, separate the sick tortoise.
  • UVB bulbs aren't recommended, T5 HO 10.0 tubes are better.
  • Tortoises shouldn't be housed in pairs. This has caused a noticeable size difference between the two.
  • Foggers can cause respiratory problems. Instead babies should be housed in a closed chamber to maintain humidity.
This thread outlines these mistakes along with some others: https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/common-keeping-errors.217956/

Is Deadpool reacting to any stimuli? Are his eyes sunken? Are his limbs stiff?
 

Alex and the Redfoot

Well-Known Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Aug 21, 2023
Messages
3,045
Location (City and/or State)
Cyprus
Hello All,

Apologies in advance for the wall of text....

I am brand new to this forum, as I found it while frantically searching for answers for my son's little red footed tortoise. We acquired 2 baby red footed tortoises for my 9 year old son back in June of this year. My son is very responsible and is already in charge of feeding our 2 family dogs in the evenings. Initially they were both around the same size but one has definitely grown much faster than the other. They are named Deadpool (smaller one) and Wolverine (Larger one), kids picked the name

They both currently live in a zoo med Tortoise box. We have a bowl for their food, separate bowl with shallow amounts of purified drinking water that we soak them in 2x a day. There is a heater lamp with a small hiding area on one side and a UVB light in the middle of the mesh enclosure side. No heating pads or anything like that. We do have a "repti fogger" to help keep humidity levels up since we were struggling with keeping humidity above 50% even when spraying the substrate down multiple times a day.

Daily diet wise we provide them with lots of leavfy greens like Kale, green leaf lettuce etc, we also include a bit of yellow squash, bell peppers, cucumber, and a fruit like strawberries or blueberries (every other day for the fruit). About once every week we do provide them some protein, usually in the form of pre-packaged superworms. We would always sprinkle all of the food with the Rephasy superfoods superveggie powder. We also have a cuddlebone as well as a calcium block in the enclosure (although I have never seen them touch either of them).

On Monday based on recommendation from the same reptile shop where we purchased the tortoises we provided them with 2 frozen pinky mice instead of the superworms we usually feed for their protein. 1 of the pinkies was fully consumed and parts of the 2nd one were also consumed. We aren't sure which one of the 2 tortoises consumed the pinkies since we were out of the house dropping the kids off at school and when we returned both were back in their hideout digesting.

In the mornings we do water/food changes every day before the kids leave for school. As soon as Deadpool would see us remove the food bowl he would come out of the hideout and wait for the new food to be placed back in. My son would then soak both the tortoises and Deadpool would then bolt to the food while Wolverine woudl go back to his hideout and would come out later in the morning to eat. Yesterday we noticed that Deadpool wasn't actively moving around like he normally would in the morning. Deadpool is the early riser and Wolverine is the lazy haha! We just figured maybe he had a late night and would start moving around later. My son did his ritual of placing both tortoises in their shallow pool of water for their nightime soak but i noticed Deadpool had not moved from it. Usually he will soak for like 30sec to a min and runs out then immediately runs to the food bowl to eat, its his routine.

Since then Deadpool really hasn't moved from where we place him and his head/legs are just out of the shell and laying on the substrate. I did notice his shell is much softer than Wolverine's shell which I hadn't really noticed before, I've been doing some reading and it sounds like MBD, but its really strange that 1 of them is apparently thriving while the other is apparently near death. My wife did mention that Deadpools shell had felt somewhat soft about a week ago but when I went to feel it, it felt pretty hard to me. So maybe I missed something that day? I mean they eat the same foods, in the same enclosure, lighting, same schedule. Kind of racking my brain thinking of what we did wrong. The only thing that was different was those pinky mice we provided them on Monday, could that have caused Wolverine's issues maybe an intestinal blockage or something?

I am afraid it might be too late for us to save Deadpool, but can anyone suggest what we have done wrong so we can help keep Wolverine healthy for the long run? We are considering taking Wolverine to the vet to see if there is anything they can help us with but we also don't want to spend money needlessly if there isn't going to be anything a vet can do for Deadpool.

I've included 2 pics, 1 of the enclosure setup and another of the 2 tortoises next to each other. You can see Deadpool on top with his beak on the floor and his front legs just laying there. Below you see Wolverine wondering why I pulled him out of his comfy hiding spot.
Hello!

I'm sorry, you have to go through this.
1. You didn't mention temperatures in the enclosure - ambient day/night are especially important. Redfoots do much better with temperature range of 82-86F all day round.
2. Soft shell (if it's soft like a sponge, not like plastic box) is a sign of calcium deficiency. It can be related to bad husbandry (lack of UVB, low calcium diet) or related to kidney damage (dehydration, genetics). Just as a sidenote - daily soaking takes 15-30 minutes in lukewarm water.
3. Check if Deadpool tries to retract legs when you pull it, reacts to *very gentle* poking the eye with a Q-tip. If you can open Deadpool's mouth (very gently) - check if there is something stuck there.
If he's reacting, soak both tortoises in separate opaque containers with shallow water for 30-60 minutes. Keep water warm (e.g. place containers in the enclosure near heat lamp).
4. Does Wolverine acts as usual or there are any symptoms?
5. Can you post a closer photo of Deadpool? Are there any red/orange/pink areas on his plastron?
 

lookalikehuuh

New Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Messages
10
Location (City and/or State)
San Diego, CA
Welcome to the forum!

It is sad that you have been given the wrong information, but don't give up yet. You are in the right place. First of all, separate the sick tortoise.
  • UVB bulbs aren't recommended, T5 HO 10.0 tubes are better.
  • Tortoises shouldn't be housed in pairs. This has caused a noticeable size difference between the two.
  • Foggers can cause respiratory problems. Instead babies should be housed in a closed chamber to maintain humidity.
This thread outlines these mistakes along with some others: https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/common-keeping-errors.217956/

Is Deadpool reacting to any stimuli? Are his eyes sunken? Are his limbs stiff?
Hey Edward,

Thank you for replying back... It seems like we have gotten bad information all over the place...Im pretty disappointed that we were given bad information.

Deadpool doesn't have sunken eyes, his limbs are not stiff. As far as stimuli goes I did gently touch his foot and he pulled it away partially into his shell so i guess that is good?

I did confirm we have a D3 Reptile 6% UVB bulb installed in the light currently. The basking lamp bulb is a exo terra 50w intense spot basking bulb.

I turned off the fogger and removed it from the Tortoise house, I am going to go get a small aquarium or something to separate this Deadpool. For now should i place him in a bucket or tupperware container?
 

lookalikehuuh

New Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Messages
10
Location (City and/or State)
San Diego, CA
Hello!

I'm sorry, you have to go through this.
1. You didn't mention temperatures in the enclosure - ambient day/night are especially important. Redfoots do much better with temperature range of 82-86F all day round.
2. Soft shell (if it's soft like a sponge, not like plastic box) is a sign of calcium deficiency. It can be related to bad husbandry (lack of UVB, low calcium diet) or related to kidney damage (dehydration, genetics). Just as a sidenote - daily soaking takes 15-30 minutes in lukewarm water.
3. Check if Deadpool tries to retract legs when you pull it, reacts to *very gentle* poking the eye with a Q-tip. If you can open Deadpool's mouth (very gently) - check if there is something stuck there.
If he's reacting, soak both tortoises in separate opaque containers with shallow water for 30-60 minutes. Keep water warm (e.g. place containers in the enclosure near heat lamp).
4. Does Wolverine acts as usual or there are any symptoms?
5. Can you post a closer photo of Deadpool? Are there any red/orange/pink areas on his plastron?
Hey Alex,

thank you for the reply here is what I know currently.

1. The digital thermometer that we have a probe laying next to the food bowl says its 80F which is on the opposite side of the heat lamp basking area.
2. I had read about the lack of UVB but it didn't make sense to me because we have cuddlebone, supplement their food with an additive that the shop recommended. I did not realize the daily soaking needed to be that long. We will start doing that today.
3. He does retract his legs and moves his head when we get near.
4. Wolverine is acting normal as always. When I pulled him out to take that first picture he bolted back into the cool side hideout per usual.
5. I will get you a few close ups as soon as I am back from picking up the kids from school.
 

Alex and the Redfoot

Well-Known Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Aug 21, 2023
Messages
3,045
Location (City and/or State)
Cyprus
Hey Alex,

thank you for the reply here is what I know currently.

1. The digital thermometer that we have a probe laying next to the food bowl says its 80F which is on the opposite side of the heat lamp basking area.
2. I had read about the lack of UVB but it didn't make sense to me because we have cuddlebone, supplement their food with an additive that the shop recommended. I did not realize the daily soaking needed to be that long. We will start doing that today.
3. He does retract his legs and moves his head when we get near.
4. Wolverine is acting normal as always. When I pulled him out to take that first picture he bolted back into the cool side hideout per usual.
5. I will get you a few close ups as soon as I am back from picking up the kids from school.
That's really good news about Deadpool! I hope he will be fine.

1. 80F during daytime when basking lamp is on, probably means lower temperatures at night. A ceramic heat emitter with a thermostat will keep ambient temperature under control.
2. Tortoises need separate enclosures. You can get a large Sterlite bin as a quick temporary solution. If placed next to the existing enclosure you can use a single UVB lamp for both (not optimal but should work). Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lifetime-60053-Raised-Garden-Enclosure/dp/B0055FSKPW?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 can be a good option as well (you will need a pond liner or good tarp underneath). This type of enclosures (closed top) will help with maintaining humidity and temperatures.

Please, keep us updated!
 

lookalikehuuh

New Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Messages
10
Location (City and/or State)
San Diego, CA
That's really good news about Deadpool! I hope he will be fine.

1. 80F during daytime when basking lamp is on, probably means lower temperatures at night. A ceramic heat emitter with a thermostat will keep ambient temperature under control.
2. Tortoises need separate enclosures. You can get a large Sterlite bin as a quick temporary solution. If placed next to the existing enclosure you can use a single UVB lamp for both (not optimal but should work). Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lifetime-60053-Raised-Garden-Enclosure/dp/B0055FSKPW?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 can be a good option as well (you will need a pond liner or good tarp underneath). This type of enclosures (closed top) will help with maintaining humidity and temperatures.

Please, keep us updated!
Hey Alex,

typing this as I'm waiting for the kids to be released from school (minimum days today). We have actually been turning off the heat lamp at night since that is what the pet store owner told us to do. Just an assumption but night time temps were probably in the low 70s in their enclosure which sounds like its way too low. Sounds like we need to reconsider our entire setup for Deadpool and Wolverine.

Its pretty maddening because the reptile store specifically told us that Redfoot tortoises were the social species and needed to be kept in small groups, that's why we ended up with 2 of them...

I will pick up a Sterilite bin on the way home from her dentist appointment so we can separate them. Should we continue, or begin properly soaking Dealpool while he appears to not be feeling good?
 

TammyJ

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2016
Messages
7,928
Location (City and/or State)
Jamaica
Watching and hoping that with the good advice you've been given, things will begin to improve. Separation is most important! Good luck.
 

Alex and the Redfoot

Well-Known Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Aug 21, 2023
Messages
3,045
Location (City and/or State)
Cyprus
Hey Alex,

typing this as I'm waiting for the kids to be released from school (minimum days today). We have actually been turning off the heat lamp at night since that is what the pet store owner told us to do. Just an assumption but night time temps were probably in the low 70s in their enclosure which sounds like its way too low. Sounds like we need to reconsider our entire setup for Deadpool and Wolverine.

Its pretty maddening because the reptile store specifically told us that Redfoot tortoises were the social species and needed to be kept in small groups, that's why we ended up with 2 of them...

I will pick up a Sterilite bin on the way home from her dentist appointment so we can separate them. Should we continue, or begin properly soaking Dealpool while he appears to not be feeling good?
Redfoots can survive in 70F at night, but that's not an optimal temperature range for them. With high humidity they need it also increases risks of respiratory infection (they need "hot and humid", not "cold and damp").

Redfoots are "social" in sense that they better tolerate presence of others, not that they enjoy to hang out together. "Groups" means a well-balanced group (3+ tortoises) on a large territory. Pairs of tortoises behave differently to group, both are stressed out with one being constantly bullied by another.

Soaking in warm water, I believe, is beneficial for Deadpool either if he's dehydrated or has an intestinal blockage. So no need to postpone it.
 

wellington

Well-Known Member
Moderator
10 Year Member!
Tortoise Club
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Sep 6, 2011
Messages
52,097
Location (City and/or State)
Chicago, Illinois, USA
Welcome to the forum!

It is sad that you have been given the wrong information, but don't give up yet. You are in the right place. First of all, separate the sick tortoise.
  • UVB bulbs aren't recommended, T5 HO 10.0 tubes are better.
  • Tortoises shouldn't be housed in pairs. This has caused a noticeable size difference between the two.
  • Foggers can cause respiratory problems. Instead babies should be housed in a closed chamber to maintain humidity.
This thread outlines these mistakes along with some others: https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/common-keeping-errors.217956/

Is Deadpool reacting to any stimuli? Are his eyes sunken? Are his limbs stiff?
Uvb bulbs are recommended, but not the halogen, mercury or coil type
The T5HO 10.0 is the correct uvb bulb.
 

wellington

Well-Known Member
Moderator
10 Year Member!
Tortoise Club
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Sep 6, 2011
Messages
52,097
Location (City and/or State)
Chicago, Illinois, USA
Get them set up separately and in the right humid environment and don't take advice from the pet shop. They obviously don't know what they are doing, none of them usually do.
I would also use better proteins like boiled eggs, cooked chicken, etc
@ZEROPILOT can help further.
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2023
Messages
2,975
Location (City and/or State)
UK
Hello and welcome! Some great advice already!
As mentioned above, tortoise of any species should NEVER be housed in pairs under any circumstances, they’re incredibly territorial, behaviours that look cute to us really aren’t, following one another and sleeping huddled up is all bullying the the tortoise world, you’ll eventually see more extreme signs of aggression. Anyone who tells you pairs are fine, have no idea what they’re talking about.

Small groups are ok when there’s lots of land and the correct male to female ratio.

In this case, one is already stunting the other due to the stress😣

Foggers aren’t recommended as it isn’t good for them to be breathing in water droplets, it also focuses on getting the top layer constantly wet, which isn’t good for red foot’s as they’re particularly prone to fungal infections. The reason you’re unfortunately struggling with humidity is because it’s not a closed chamber.

I think you’ll find this thread I made useful to go through, I cover correct kind of equipment(including the need for a closed chamber) correct levels, appropriately maintaining humidity, there’s a good diet list and lots of visual examples for everything! They each need their own appropriately heated and lit enclosure, hopefully this helps give you an idea🙂

Also I’d go over the other ‘common keeping errors’ link to avoid the wrong kind of equipment and housing etc.

Hope this all helps! Please feel free to keep asking questions❤️
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2023
Messages
2,975
Location (City and/or State)
UK
Hey Edward,

Thank you for replying back... It seems like we have gotten bad information all over the place...Im pretty disappointed that we were given bad information.

Deadpool doesn't have sunken eyes, his limbs are not stiff. As far as stimuli goes I did gently touch his foot and he pulled it away partially into his shell so i guess that is good?

I did confirm we have a D3 Reptile 6% UVB bulb installed in the light currently. The basking lamp bulb is a exo terra 50w intense spot basking bulb.

I turned off the fogger and removed it from the Tortoise house, I am going to go get a small aquarium or something to separate this Deadpool. For now should i place him in a bucket or tupperware container?
Also moving forward, I’d go with the Arcadia proT5 12% instead of the 6%, while that is technically their uvi zone, the 6% bulbs won’t last you as long in terms of uv strength.

If using a light emitting heat source, get yourself an incandescent floodlight, spot bulbs are too intense. But tbh, I think CHE’s (ceramic heat emitters) work better as heating for red foots, far less desiccating on their shell, and your temps will stay nice and stable day&night, just make sure to run any ceramic bulbs on a thermostat, and get some regular led lighting to light your enclosure during the day🙂

I go more in depth on all this in the link above😊
 

ZEROPILOT

REDFOOT WRANGLER
Moderator
10 Year Member!
Tortoise Club
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Messages
29,507
Location (City and/or State)
South Eastern Florida (U.S.A.)/Rock Hill S.C.
Hey Edward,

Thank you for replying back... It seems like we have gotten bad information all over the place...Im pretty disappointed that we were given bad information.

Deadpool doesn't have sunken eyes, his limbs are not stiff. As far as stimuli goes I did gently touch his foot and he pulled it away partially into his shell so i guess that is good?

I did confirm we have a D3 Reptile 6% UVB bulb installed in the light currently. The basking lamp bulb is a exo terra 50w intense spot basking bulb.

I turned off the fogger and removed it from the Tortoise house, I am going to go get a small aquarium or something to separate this Deadpool. For now should i place him in a bucket or tupperware container?
Any screw-in type bulb is not the correct type bulb to use as a uvb source for your tortoises.
You need a T5 10.0 linear florescent strip tube type
 

ZEROPILOT

REDFOOT WRANGLER
Moderator
10 Year Member!
Tortoise Club
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Messages
29,507
Location (City and/or State)
South Eastern Florida (U.S.A.)/Rock Hill S.C.
Get them set up separately and in the right humid environment and don't take advice from the pet shop. They obviously don't know what they are doing, none of them usually do.
I would also use better proteins like boiled eggs, cooked chicken, etc
@ZEROPILOT can help further.
The pet shop didn't seem to give you any useable advice and of course sold you 2 tortoises and 100% incorrect everything.
Get these parameters good. They need to be taken care of asap;
Temperature: 80 to 85. 24/7.
Humidity: Over 70% 24/7.
Get them separated.
Get them hydrated.
Lack of a proper uv source won't kill them in short order. But other things will. Take care of the more serious issues now.
You'll need two closed chamber enclosures. Or at the very minimum. One that is devided so they cannot see one another.
Have you let them soak in some shallow, lukewarm water?
You'll need a che or two to provide warmth without light for night time. (And daytime) and some type of light to mimic daytime. But not a screw in uv bulb or a mercury vapor bulb.
The diet doesn't sound alarming. So we'll discuss that later.
Right now, my guess as to your more serious issues are temperatures too hot or too cold and lack of hydration.
Let's get them sorted out in the next 24 hours.
 

lookalikehuuh

New Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Messages
10
Location (City and/or State)
San Diego, CA
I have sad news to share, unfortunately Deadpool passed away while I was out picking the kids up. When we came back he was fully withdrawn into the shell and his eyes were sunken in. He wasn't responsive to any touch at all and was stiff.

We dug a little grave for him in the back yard and buried him with the help of the kids. My 9 year old was pretty devastated when he heard about Deadpool, he wanted to give Deadpool CPR but we told him it was too late and CPR doesn't necessarily work on Tortoises.

We are now going to focus on ensuring Wolverine is set up to thrive. We cleaned out the enclosure entirely and installed all new substrate in case its some type of disease so it won't spread. We are going to work on getting a more appropriate enclosure soon. For now we have removed the Repti Fogger.

Can you guys recommend a good CHE and thermometer controller that we can use for night time? For now should we just keep the heated bulb on overnight to provide Wolverine with enough heat? When everyone refers to the temperature range of 80-85F is that in the basking "hot" area or the "cool" area that we should be in that temp range?

@ZEROPILOT Do you have a good thread or advice for a proper diet for Wolverine?
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2023
Messages
2,975
Location (City and/or State)
UK
I have sad news to share, unfortunately Deadpool passed away while I was out picking the kids up. When we came back he was fully withdrawn into the shell and his eyes were sunken in. He wasn't responsive to any touch at all and was stiff.

We dug a little grave for him in the back yard and buried him with the help of the kids. My 9 year old was pretty devastated when he heard about Deadpool, he wanted to give Deadpool CPR but we told him it was too late and CPR doesn't necessarily work on Tortoises.

We are now going to focus on ensuring Wolverine is set up to thrive. We cleaned out the enclosure entirely and installed all new substrate in case its some type of disease so it won't spread. We are going to work on getting a more appropriate enclosure soon. For now we have removed the Repti Fogger.

Can you guys recommend a good CHE and thermometer controller that we can use for night time? For now should we just keep the heated bulb on overnight to provide Wolverine with enough heat? When everyone refers to the temperature range of 80-85F is that in the basking "hot" area or the "cool" area that we should be in that temp range?

@ZEROPILOT Do you have a good thread or advice for a proper diet for Wolverine?
Im so sorry for the loss, they do need complete darkness at night to sleep so the basking light being on isn’t ideal for night time, id make sure the room is being kept nice and warm with the heating on(as in your heating) I’d until you can get a CHE, with temperature range, we’re taking all over the enclosure, red foots don’t need a ‘warmer’ end and ‘cooler’ end, depending how big you go for their starter set up, one or two ceramics ran on a thermostat set to around 82-84 will do the trick. With the thermostat, you want to make sure the wattage it can take is at least double what you’re putting in, perhaps some folks will chime in with their recommendations for specific ones, but there’s lots out there.

You can always feel free to double check anything you’re buying here! Could save you some time and money!

If you give this thread a good read, it’s all covered.

I would also try familiarising yourself with this to avoid running into further issues

So sorry again❤️
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2023
Messages
2,975
Location (City and/or State)
UK
Also, this is tricky to say, but there’s been instances where they appear dead but aren’t, especially if he’s been poorly, the little one has likely passed based on your description, but sometimes it’s worth giving them a warm soak in shallow water and letting them warm up under the bulb(provided that bulb isn’t getting too hot underneath) though I understand you might be worried about some sort of cross contamination, perhaps if you have a spare bulb you could put them under? Idk I thought it might be worth mentioning as a last ditch effort, could be wishful thinking😞💔
 

lookalikehuuh

New Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Messages
10
Location (City and/or State)
San Diego, CA
Im so sorry for the loss, they do need complete darkness at night to sleep so the basking light being on isn’t ideal for night time, id make sure the room is being kept nice and warm with the heating on(as in your heating) I’d until you can get a CHE, with temperature range, we’re taking all over the enclosure, red foots don’t need a ‘warmer’ end and ‘cooler’ end, depending how big you go for their starter set up, one or two ceramics ran on a thermostat set to around 82-84 will do the trick. With the thermostat, you want to make sure the wattage it can take is at least double what you’re putting in, perhaps some folks will chime in with their recommendations for specific ones, but there’s lots out there.

You can always feel free to double check anything you’re buying here! Could save you some time and money!

If you give this thread a good read, it’s all covered.

I would also try familiarising yourself with this to avoid running into further issues

So sorry again❤️
Thank you again, I was just taking the time to read thru the entire thread and it answered a ton of questions. We have ordered a few things on Amazon and they will arrive tomorrow so we can get everything in order.

thank you all for help it has been like drinking from a firehose, but now I will take a ton of time reading thru these crazy useful thread you guys have authored!
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2023
Messages
2,975
Location (City and/or State)
UK
Thank you again, I was just taking the time to read thru the entire thread and it answered a ton of questions. We have ordered a few things on Amazon and they will arrive tomorrow so we can get everything in order.

thank you all for help it has been like drinking from a firehose, but now I will take a ton of time reading thru these crazy useful thread you guys have authored!
No problem at all, we all just want as many people to have a positive keeping experience as possible!🐢💚

I’m truly sorry you’ve experienced this, pet stores that sell them should be people we can trust! It’s so frustrating they aren’t😣but this isn’t your fault, I’m so glad you’ve made your way here to give your remaining baby the best chance at a long and healthy life❤️
 

New Posts

Top