Please help (tortoise won't eat)

[BobbyJ]

hello guys so if you've read my other posts , I have a new redfoot named Tito , he hasn't eaten since I got him and no matter what I do he shows no interest in food . He likes to sleep a lot . At first I thought it was too cold In the tank so I purchased a 100 watt bulb . Right under the lamp , it is over 105 degrees ( which I know is too hot . But that like I said is only right under the light ,, he hangs out next to that spot in the 86 degree range ... The rest of the tank is About 80 degrees ... I don't know what to do to get this right .. He still won't eat , and now I've read that he's wayy to warm .. Any ideas ? All help is greatly appreciated ... I give him daily soaks and he drinks water .. Thanks

 

[BobbyJ]

Here are some pics

 

[Turtlepete]

The habitat is very bare. Sorry to say, that is simply not an acceptable habitat for long-term management of any animal……A quarantine tank at best. Improving on that would certainly help. Try to add more plants, rocks, substrate changes, a deeper substrate, 3" or so deep of peat moss and spaghnum that he can burrow into, etc.. Improving the environment really has an affect on the tortoises sense of security, which can be very important when acclimating them. Also, bump up the humidity as high as possible. I've found hatchlings to be most active and hungry when the humidity is nearing 100%.

Besides the above, offer as many different kinds of foods as possible. Usually soft fruits are eagerly taken, sometimes color has an affect. Mushy strawberries, papaya, banana, mushrooms, etc.. Also try some cooked chicken or turkey, he may show some interest.

Having a spot lamp at 105 degrees is dangerous. 86 degrees is slightly warm, around 80-82 would be better.

 

[tortdad]

What are you using to measure your temps?

 

[wellington]

@N2TORTS may be able to help confirm what was already posted or with what you are doing. I do know plants fake or real would help him to feel safe. They require a high humidity, with the top layer of substrate being dry, they are prone to shell rot. I can't really help with their temps. I do know some like to bask some not so much. Good luck. Fruit might help him to eat, but should not be a big part of their diet.

 

[crimson_lotus]

What have you been feeding him lately? I apologize if this has been asked before, and I'm sure it has...but have you tried feeding Mazuri?

Also humidity is very important for these guys, that open top (so the humidity escapes) and those hot temps are probably not good for him. Add some humidity and the temp should go down. His eyes are probably watering like crazy!

 

[BobbyJ]

What are you using to measure your temps?

A thermometer

 

[BobbyJ]

What have you been feeding him lately? I apologize if this has been asked before, and I'm sure it has...but have you tried feeding Mazuri?

Also humidity is very important for these guys, that open top (so the humidity escapes) and those hot temps are probably not good for him. Add some humidity and the temp should go down. His eyes are probably watering like crazy!

I've tried a bunch of veggies and some fruits .. He doesn't have to watery of eyes because like I said he stays in the area that is like 86 degrees ... It's on that hot in that one spot other than that it's86-87 degrees and 80 on the cool side

 

[tortdad]

A thermometer

Haha. I figure that much. What kind?

 

[BobbyJ]

Haha. I figure that much. What kind?

Just a reptile thermometer , I am going to get a 75 watt bulb .. I have a 100 watt now and it's too hot .. 75 watt will have a 95 degree basking spot but the rest of the enclosure is about 85 and on the cool side 80

 

[tortdad]

The odds are that reptile thermometer is not accurite. I'd get a digital one first before you go changing bulbs. Home Depot sells then for $10. I think I posted a link to it in your other thread.

 

[crimson_lotus]

Yeah Home Depot has an Acu-Rite hygrometer that measures both humidity AND temperature, and it's only $10

 

[BobbyJ]

The odds are that reptile thermometer is not accurite. I'd get a digital one first before you go changing bulbs. Home Depot sells then for $10. I think I posted a link to it in your other thread.

Ok... My idea is that , right under the lamp ,, the temp with a 75 watt is going to 95 ish ... But around the enclosure , ( where tito has spent all his time .. Right off the side of the hot spot) it's about 85 86 degrees .. Is that okay .. It's always going to be hot right under the bulb . All around the enclosed is anywhere from 80-85 degrees . Is that the right temp

 

[BobbyJ]

Yeah Home Depot has an Acu-Rite hygrometer that measures both humidity AND temperature, and it's only $10

He's currently sleeping for the night in a place that is 82 degrees

 

[crimson_lotus]

I have a much larger enclosure so I need 2 heat lamps..under them I have a hot spot of 90, cool side is low 80's. The humidity in there is 90%.

You could always adjust the temps by moving the lamp farther away. Do you have a mercury vapor bulb? If it has UVB output then it does need to be a certain distance away in order for it to be effective. I would also suggest getting rid of that clamp and buying/making a stand, those things fall down often.

I just want to clarify what you have for lighting - what kind of light is that? Does it emit UVB or just heat, or both? Do you turn it off at night? If so, do you not have a heat source for night time?

UVB is incredibly important, if you do not have a light that emits this, or if you do not expose your tortoise to sunshine, your tortoise will get metabolic bone disease. This is a very serious issue and can cause major problems later on. These lights need to be changed out every 6 months or so, maybe 12 depending on the type.

 

[BobbyJ]

I have a much larger enclosure so I need 2 heat lamps..under them I have a hot spot of 90, cool side is low 80's. The humidity in there is 90%.

You could always adjust the temps by moving the lamp farther away. Do you have a mercury vapor bulb? If it has UVB output then it does need to be a certain distance away in order for it to be effective. I would also suggest getting rid of that clamp and buying/making a stand, those things fall down often.

I just want to clarify what you have for lighting - what kind of light is that? Does it emit UVB or just heat, or both? Do you turn it off at night? If so, do you not have a heat source for night time?

UVB is incredibly important, if you do not have a light that emits this, or if you do not expose your tortoise to sunshine, your tortoise will get metabolic bone disease. This is a very serious issue and can cause major problems later on. These lights need to be changed out every 6 months or so, maybe 12 depending on the type.

I have both a uvb and a regular daylight bulb . The hot spot is reading over 90 in the hot spot , but the rest of the enclosure ( where he usualy sits ) is in the 80/s ... I'm going to see how he does here .. Also I'm going to upgrade this habitat soon . I'm probably going to build something because I'd like to get another tort while they're still young

 

[crimson_lotus]

Tortoises generally do not do well in pairs, and they prefer their solitude. If you were to get another one I would recommend housing them separately.

 

[BobbyJ]

For everyone that has been following this thread , tito has finnaly ate .. He ate a carrot , I know that's not the best thing but I've tried everything else so I figured I'd drop some chopped carrot in and sure enough he ate it

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Great news...Now I have one that hasn't eaten in over a week. I'm trying to find something she can't resist.

 

[BobbyJ]

Great news...Now I have one that hasn't eaten in over a week. I'm trying to find something she can't resist.

The only thing mine seems to like is romain lettuce