Red footed and yellow footed tortoises

[Mr.pacheco]

I meant to say far away and even more detail is that why he is under his heat lamp he will be trimming his nails and when he’s eating he will be stepping on the one that’s not close to the heat lamp

 

[Mr.pacheco]

It arrived finally I got other things to but this is the more important stuff thanks so much for the help🙃😃

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

It arrived finally I got other things to but this is the more important stuff thanks so much for the help🙃😃View attachment 372641

I’m glad your substrate has come but I’m afraid the bulbs you ordered aren’t correct indoor UV, as previously discussed it needs to be provided in the form of a t5 fluorescent tube light, these are the ones to choose between, mounted 18-21 inches from the substrate.

Also did you opt to keep a light emitting heat source? If so you need an incandescent floodlight which I’ll also include here.
But tbh a basking light isn’t necessary with red foots, I still do think you’d find it easier relying on ceramic heat emitters for your heat 24/7, they will need to be on a thermostat👍

 

[Mr.pacheco]

I do have ceramic heat for night and day right now but wants I instal the heat lamp and timers the UV light will be for day the ceramic one will be for night

 

[Mr.pacheco]

So he will have heat all night and day but have UV in day so it’s like out in the wild

 

[Mr.pacheco]

Bulbs I will do more digging and reaserch and look at the ones you posted thanks

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

I do have ceramic heat for night and day right now but wants I instal the heat lamp and timers the UV light will be for day the ceramic one will be for night

I would like to stress that the bulbs in the box are not UVB lamps - these are just basking heat lamps. They do not emit UV required for vitamin D3 synthesis.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

I do have ceramic heat for night and day right now but wants I instal the heat lamp and timers the UV light will be for day the ceramic one will be for night

No no, just use your ceramics for both night and day, coupled with ambient lighting on a 12hr timer for the daylight.

Uv is nothing to do with heat! Those tube lights are simply to provide indoor uv and need putting on a 4hour timer from noonish

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Bulbs I will do more digging and reaserch and look at the ones you posted thanks

Either the zoo med or Arcadia is the bulb you need for your indoor uv, don’t worry about buying another basking lamp, it isn’t needed if your CHE’s are keeping a good constant temperature, simply get a normal non heat led bulb for ambient lighting during the day🙂

 

[Mr.pacheco]

Ok

 

[Mr.pacheco]

I will order the bulbs but everything else is in

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

I will order the bulbs but everything else is in View attachment 372759

Looks nice! The border between "substrate" and "no substrate" areas looks tough to climb. You can gather more substrate near the border to make it easier to climb and add some large flat pebbles on the other side.

 

[Mr.pacheco]

Ok sounds good

 

[Mr.pacheco]

He’s still warming up to it

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

He’s still warming up to it

It’ll take some getting used to for him🙂well done getting it in there😊

 

[Mr.pacheco]

Thanks😊

 

[Mr.pacheco]

Bye the way you can’t see but the board is not all the way from end to end there’s a gap and I placed rocks small one that work as ramps and dividers to keep the soil out of the water and the other substrate

 

[Mr.pacheco]

And also for right now I still am using the box I’m trying to go and get the gray storage bin like I said but have barely enough time

 

[COmtnLady]

Those rocks at the end end of that two-by-four on the floor are too sharp to have in your tortoise's walkway. His plastron will get gouged and be scarred up. Get rid of sharp things. Smooth, rounded river rocks, or flat sheets ones with NO SHARP Corners or points are what you need.

Why is that two-by-four there? What purpose does it serve? It would be good to remove it if it isn't structural.

Did you soak the brick of coco coir, then break it apart, wring out the excess water, and pat it smoothly and snuggly into the floor of the habitat? It looks too fluffy and lumpy, like there isn't three inches of orchid bark on top of it. The coco coir is supposed to be a base, not an upper surface. Having that much of it open to air will will also make particulates that your tortoise will inhale - and cause breathing problems. Look back over the pictures others have shared with you to see what a better surface looks like.

That black plastic water container is a nice size BUT it will be really difficult to lift out daily to change the dirty water because it is too flimsy, too flexible. You need a terracotta saucer. They are perfect in all aspects, from cleaning, to not tipping, not flipping a smallish tortoise, and so forth.

What is that white tank in the corner? You don't need a mister or sprayer in the habitat, especially since it has a closed top and with damp substrate, that you pour water into the corners of when the humidity drops.

 

[Maggie3fan]

I'm having a problem with seeing the photos so my only comment has to do with heat and light for Redfoots the way I personally was taught. Redfoot tortoises live on the forest floor, they don't get/need much ubv. They don't like bright light...I have a CHE at one end of a 6 ft tort table and a chick brooder panel at the other end. The light comes in the window. Layla has a very good diet giving her most of the vitamins she needs, eating something different daily. I tried giving Layla some flowers and plants, but she's so destructive I don't think she deserves any shrubbery
she's giving me the stink eye...lol

Here is one meal for a 3 yr old Redfoot...different lettuces, 4 different kinds of berries, banannas, hardboiled egg and mushrooms...they are so easy to feed...