Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
Expanding on what the others have mentioned here, I do agree that those rocks are going to be too abrasive on your tortoises plastron, smooth river rocks will be a much better choice for you, easily fixedAnd also for right now I still am using the box I’m trying to go and get the gray storage bin like I said but have barely enough time
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I also appreciate you giving your tortoise a nice big soaking area, the trouble with the tub is not only will you find it difficult to keep taking out to clean, but there’s also no grip to it, I know your tortoise isn’t a small hatchling anymore but they’re still able to trip on the sides of things and potentially flip, a terracotta has grip in the event that happens to give your tortoise a better chance to right themselves, don’t worry the terracottas are cheap so that’s another easy fixmaybe even add two large ones
All that said I do agree with @COmtnLady that if possible, if the beam isn’t part of the structure it would be good to remove, that way you can have appropriate substrate throughout the enclosure instead of being sectioned off, also seeing that it’s bare wood and you’ve not added a liner, I would be worried rot could eventually set inI’m seeing the substrate on the bare wooden edges too, the bottom of your enclosure has the potential to get ruined hence I recommend a pond liner, again you can find them pretty cheap and it’ll save you in the long run
If you can’t remove that divide, that’s ok, but I’d suggest getting the substrate on both sides, if that’s a humidifier in the enclosure it definitely needs removing.
As for the application of the substrate, I do think coir will act better as a base, I wouldn’t use it on its own personally, that top layer is going to dry very quickly and you’ll end up with dusty coir your tortoise could breath in.
Some folks do use it on its own, however I think it’s potentially more maintenance, if timing is an issue for you this won’t work in your favour, it could get overlooked when you aren’t there.
It needs to be dampened, mix thoroughly so it’s not lumpy, then firmly pack it down with your hands, if left fluffy it will also dry out faster.
I’d then get yourself some orchid bark or forest floor(mulch) to layer on top, to maintain your humidity keep the bottom layer nice and damp(not muddy)by pouring some lukewarm water into the corners of your substrate, you shouldn’t have to do this too often in a closed chamber, just check your substrate and monitors to do as and when needed.
I wouldn’t feel comfortable attempting these pours until you have some lining for fear you’re going to wreck the wooden beams of your enclosure, but the pours are what you need to do, a humidifier inside an enclosure isn’t appropriate, and spraying/misting only lasts so long.
Out of interest, do you know what your temperatures are directly under your bulbs? I only ask because the beam they’re on appears a little low in the photos, however that could just be the perception of the picture, are the fittings screwed into the beams? That’s definitely safest.
If you haven’t already I’d definitely recommend you get your hands on a temperature gun, they’re SO handy to read all your ground temps, and making sure your monitors are correct
Also just so you don’t get confused with anything maggie has mentioned above, yes they definitely have lower uv needs, but because your guy is housed indoors and has never received any, it’s still vital to get the indoor uv installed we talked about, and when she mentions the lighting coming through the window, she doesn't mean uv light, she’s talking about ambient lighting. Just wanted to make sure there’s no crossed wires there for you.
As always, any further questions, please do ask, I know my answers can be a bit long, but I want to try and give you all the information you need, take your time going over it, I hope it helps
Keep up with the positive changes, you’ve got this!I’m glad you’re sticking with us! It’ll be wonderful once you start seeing the benefits