Red footed tortoise don't eat fruit and general eating problems

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Oh, poor guy... On these photos it is seen clearly what is the problem.

@Yvonne G @zovick Can you advise what to do? Can we use nail clippers to cut a part of lower beak ("the tooth")?

 

[zovick]

Oh, poor guy... On these photos it is seen clearly what is the problem.

@Yvonne G @zovick Can you advise what to do? Can we use nail clippers to cut a part of lower beak ("the tooth")?

It looks as though it could be snipped off with nail clippers. Be careful not to get the tongue when doing it, though. Probably taking the tortoise to a vet would be the safest option.

 

[Martellone]

Oh, poor guy... On these photos it is seen clearly what is the problem.

@Yvonne G @zovick Can you advise what to do? Can we use nail clippers to cut a part of lower beak ("the tooth")?

A big update!!

Sunday i snipped off by myself the "tooth" with nail clippers! Five minutes later he start to eat a lot..i think the tooth in addition to hindering the bites,it did not close the beak completely. Now are five days that he eat a lot. He has never eaten so much!!mushrooms , clover in the outside enclosure, melon, pineapple, scarole salad. He doesen't eat greens but mixed with mazuri yes..until he grow to 580 g (the weight of september 2023 before all the problems started) i want to give him a plus of 3-4 grams of mazuri to natural food every day to sustain growth. Obviously as soon as he reaches 580 g i will stop exaggerating and provide him with the right amount of food.

I note that he drink a lot now, more than before.probably to help digestion of food?

We are very very happy, a big problem solved..I think with those biggest quantity of food he restart to grow earlier.


Thank you very much guys for suggestions, in particular Alex. Thanks

Attached a picture after cut.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Wow! What a change! I'm happy to know that he is "usual self" now. You've been doing great with caring for him and courageous to clip the "tooth"!

He drinks a lot because he eats a lot and water is supporting digestion.

I think if you don't see any bleeding and rot - you may stop betadine (it slows down wounds regeneration).

By the way, where have you got Mazuri in EU? (I'm hesitating to order from US because of the price )

 

[Martellone]

Wow! What a change! I'm happy to know that he is "usual self" now. You've been doing great with caring for him and courageous to clip the "tooth"!

He drinks a lot because he eats a lot and water is supporting digestion.

I think if you don't see any bleeding and rot - you may stop betadine (it slows down wounds regeneration).

By the way, where have you got Mazuri in EU? (I'm hesitating to order from US because of the price )

In a shop in Romagna..the place where i take the tort 6 years ago..i think they have an online shop..minizoo rinaldi

 

[Martellone]

Wow! What a change! I'm happy to know that he is "usual self" now. You've been doing great with caring for him and courageous to clip the "tooth"!

He drinks a lot because he eats a lot and water is supporting digestion.

I think if you don't see any bleeding and rot - you may stop betadine (it slows down wounds regeneration).

By the way, where have you got Mazuri in EU? (I'm hesitating to order from US because of the price )

An update.
After the tooth cut, in the last three weeks he continued to eat a lot. Greens (a lot), endive, sugarloaf, pineapple, mushrooms, tomatoes, kiwi, mazuri, hybiscus flowers. He eat like a dragon!!!
The sustained diet made him gain 18% weight in 3 weeks!!!!
I think with the next week he will return to the weight before disease.
When he return to this weight i start to give him normal quantity to avoid overwheigt.
Another time, thank you very much.

Now he is in the outdoor enclosure and indoor in the night (because temperature drop to 17-18 during nights). Outdoor the humidity is more or less 70-75% in the morning and 50-60% in the afternoon..i irrigate with some water the enclosure to try tu sustain himidity at the morning. Those range may cause pyramiding? When we are at home we spray water on him one time a hour to maintain hydratation, but we are at home 2-3 days a week during day, and we give him a bath of 30 minutes every evening when we take him indoor.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Hello!
Such a good news! Thanks for the update!

50-60% humidity isn't critically low and is less problematic past extensive growth age. Around noon he, most likely, hides for a nap somewhere - and you can make him cool and humid shelter. Water dish in a shade of a leafy plant (like hosta, carex or small banana palm) or a muddy puddle will also help.

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

The update is wonderful news!

 

[Martellone]

Hello!
Such a good news! Thanks for the update!

50-60% humidity isn't critically low and is less problematic past extensive growth age. Around noon he, most likely, hides for a nap somewhere - and you can make him cool and humid shelter. Water dish in a shade of a leafy plant (like hosta, carex or small banana palm) or a muddy puddle will also help.

The enclosure..i hope two weeds in pots will grow during the season.
I remove the "house" because if he goes in he sleep in all day!!!

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

The enclosure..i hope two weeds in pots will grow during the season.
I remove the "house" because if he goes in he sleep in all day!!!

At the same time, if he has no hide he has to pace in stress for the whole day. In the wild they are active mostly during morning and afternoon hours (as the most tortoise species, actually). He needs a hide to feel safe. Later, he will get used to the environment and won't stay in the house for the whole day.

ZEROPILOT tells the same story - on some days his redfoots were staying in hides or pools for several days in a row, so he had to block the hide entrance. And my Besha today did a short walk (30 minutes at max) and then stayed for the rest of the day in her humid hide. Maybe tomorrow I'll block the hides for a while.

 

[Martellone]

At the same time, if he has no hide he has to pace in stress for the whole day. In the wild they are active mostly during morning and afternoon hours (as the most tortoise species, actually). He needs a hide to feel safe. Later, he will get used to the environment and won't stay in the house for the whole day.

ZEROPILOT tells the same story - on some days his redfoots were staying in hides or pools for several days in a row, so he had to block the hide entrance. And my Besha today did a short walk (30 minutes at max) and then stayed for the rest of the day in her humid hide. Maybe tomorrow I'll block the hides for a while.

Beautiful tortoise!!
He didn't walk today..i see today he stayed in the corner of the enclosure, that is always in shade, and look around like your Besha. If I take him in other place of enclosure he walk or sit under plants. In the indoor enclosure he wake up early in the morning and stay on the door of hide but during day change places in enclosure and return in the hide only in the evening.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Beautiful tortoise!!
He didn't walk today..i see today he stayed in the corner of the enclosure, that is always in shade, and look around like your Besha. If I take him in other place of enclosure he walk or sit under plants. In the indoor enclosure he wake up early in the morning and stay on the door of hide but during day change places in enclosure and return in the hide only in the evening.

Thank you!
Outdoor enclosure is still somewhat new to him (smells, sounds, wind, sunlight adds colors to everything). He needs time to settle in. So I would make him a hide to safely look around.

When I put Besha outside for the first time (it was an empty balcony with only sunbed in it) she walked without stopping for hours. I thought it was an "exercise" for her, now I tend to think it was stress and she was looking for a safe place. She "clucks" when she's stressed out and I interpreted it as "excitement" back then.

 

[Martellone]

Thank you!
Outdoor enclosure is still somewhat new to him (smells, sounds, wind, sunlight adds colors to everything). He needs time to settle in. So I would make him a hide to safely look around.

When I put Besha outside for the first time (it was an empty balcony with only sunbed in it) she walked without stopping for hours. I thought it was an "exercise" for her, now I tend to think it was stress and she was looking for a safe place. She "clucks" when she's stressed out and I interpreted it as "excitement" back then.

Hi guys,
he continued to eat like a dragon.

Now in North italy finally the summer is arrived. During day temperature is betwenn 28 to 30 °C. During nights temperature drop to 20 °C. It's ok if i leave him outside definitely (day and night). Obviously only for summer period.

Thanks

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

The most important think is to make sure that no predators can get to him and that the temperature absolutely doesn't drop below 16C. Do I remember correctly that your enclosure is on your balcony?

 

[Martellone]

The most important think is to make sure that no predators can get to him and that the temperature absolutely doesn't drop below 16C. Do I remember correctly that your enclosure is on your balcony?

Thank you. Yes is on balcony..the ouside enclosure has a net to close the top.

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

I think that you can keep him outside at night. The net probably keeps predators out?

 

[Martellone]

I think that you can keep him outside at night. The net probably keeps predators out?

We stay at the second floor..the only possible predators are birds and they can't pass the net

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Hi guys,
he continued to eat like a dragon.

Now in North italy finally the summer is arrived. During day temperature is betwenn 28 to 30 °C. During nights temperature drop to 20 °C. It's ok if i leave him outside definitely (day and night). Obviously only for summer period.

Thanks

Hello!
Good to know he is doing fine!

When temperatures are above 20C - he will be fine. I suggest to make him a small "night box": something with insulation (even as simple as picnic fridge box) and thick substrate (6-8 inches). Put this box in a shaded area and make sure he sleeps there. This box will help him to retreat from heat and will keep him warmer at night. My Besha sleeps outside for a week or two now and has a plastic dog house with 10 inches of damp coco coir inside. She goes there at night and was sitting there during heatwaves, half-burrowed in substrate.

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

At least at first this means going out to lock your tortoise into the insulated box every night. I have found the cheap plastic thermal boxes pretty durable. A dremel could probably be used to cut into the plastic.

 

[Martellone]

Hello!
Good to know he is doing fine!

When temperatures are above 20C - he will be fine. I suggest to make him a small "night box": something with insulation (even as simple as picnic fridge box) and thick substrate (6-8 inches). Put this box in a shaded area and make sure he sleeps there. This box will help him to retreat from heat and will keep him warmer at night. My Besha sleeps outside for a week or two now and has a plastic dog house with 10 inches of damp coco coir inside. She goes there at night and was sitting there during heatwaves, half-burrowed in substrate.

Yes, i have a wood "house" that i used in past years. Tomorrow i put it in the corner of enclosure. In past years some nights he slept in an some nights outside.