Redfoot exhibiting odd behavior

Honeyman

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One of my northern redfoots is about 1.5 years old and has always made a squeak noise when it drinks or eats wet food. At first I was extremely nervous and contacted the breeder to let him know he made this noise, I also posted a thread on here( unfortunately the thread got combined with another i made regarding another tortoise of mine). I did get some responses saying it was a normal thing and not to worry so long as the tortoise didn't show any other signs of illness. He didn't show anything else, he eats fine, drinks and soaks himself in the water dish all the time and thermo regulates just fine. However now he makes the noise often even without eating or drinking and when he does he pulls his head back into his shell and opens and closes his mouth repeatedly making an almost grinding/squeaking noise. Does anyone have an idea of what's going on? Also I have video of it but cannot figure out how to post it. Is there a way to post video?
 

wellington

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Give us a run down of your temps. Day temps high and low, night temps and humidity.
The video needs to be uploaded onto YouTube and then shared here from that.
 

Honeyman

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The day time temps range from 82°f on the cooler end of the enclosure and 86°-88°f on the warm side. I use a ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat and a t5 5.0 shade dweller uvb on a timer. At night the temps drop to 80°-78.5°f before the CHE kicks back on. The humidity stays between 75-90%. The diet consists of greens like dandelion, baby arugula, hibiscus leaves,mallow, clover, cactus, plantain etc. And fruits like papaya, mango, prickly pear fruit and the occasional melon as a special treat. I also feed flowers like snapdragon, lilac and hibiscus. I also give protein once a week in the form of either mazuri, mushrooms, and occasionally black soldier fly larvae or captive bred earth worms.I sprinkle calcium twice a week and a multivitamin with d3 once a month. The substrate is orchid bark, there are hides on the cool and warm ends of the enclosure. This tortoise also lives separately from my others.
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

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The day time temps range from 82°f on the cooler end of the enclosure and 86°-88°f on the warm side. I use a ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat and a t5 5.0 shade dweller uvb on a timer. At night the temps drop to 80°-78.5°f before the CHE kicks back on. The humidity stays between 75-90%. The diet consists of greens like dandelion, baby arugula, hibiscus leaves,mallow, clover, cactus, plantain etc. And fruits like papaya, mango, prickly pear fruit and the occasional melon as a special treat. I also feed flowers like snapdragon, lilac and hibiscus. I also give protein once a week in the form of either mazuri, mushrooms, and occasionally black soldier fly larvae or captive bred earth worms.I sprinkle calcium twice a week and a multivitamin with d3 once a month. The substrate is orchid bark, there are hides on the cool and warm ends of the enclosure. This tortoise also lives separately from my others.
Hello there!
Our red foot sometimes makes clicking noises with her mouth, I’ve red a lot of red foot’s do, though that did sound quite loud on the video so I’m not 100% what to make of it, let’s see what others think.

Your temps aren’t too bad, though I’d try to get those high 70’s readings up slightly, and don’t let your humidity go below 80 anywhere either, is it a closed chamber you have them in?🙂
You might find it easier relying on ceramics 24/7 for your heating to achieve a better ambient of 80-86(82-84 being optimal)though if you suspect a slight RI you can have them in the 84-87 range, plus there’s no need for a warmer or cooler end with these guys.

Maybe you’ll find this thread below useful to read through😊
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

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Upon re reading your latest reply, am I right in saying you do just use a ceramic for your heat? If that’s the case, hang it in the middle instead to distribute the heat more evenly and take it off the timer, set your thermostat for around 82/84 and put the probe in one of the corners, perhaps your temps staying more stable will help fight any potential IR if there is one brewing, not to say there is but it won’t hurt🙂
 

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