Redfoot not leaving hide

[Epimetheus]

Alright awesome, this has been really useful, and eye opening. Alot of what i researched before hand was just unuseful or false so im glad this forum was able to set it straight and i wish id found it before hand. Currently designing a table for her that will double her space, and im pricing out material for it. Im also with you guys on the tube light it does not look like is enough so ill get the one suggested
Im heading out soon to pick up a digital thermometer , a thermostat for the CHE, and orchid bark,I get paid thursday and have friday off so ill update everyone when i finish it

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

We’re glad you’re here! I was completely lost before joining this forum, almost all the information out there is incorrect/outdated, it’s even more confusing when there’s pages that give both good and bad information.
Pet stores and facebook pages are often just following all the same outdated care too😣

This forum is an absolute hive mind! It has all the right up to date care info that has been tried and tested for many years now, to give the best results for healthy happy torts😁there’s so many members with decades of experience that have known each other years through this forum and learnt from one another, it’s such a helpful community!

It’s always wonderful to see a new owner make their way here, look forward to following your progress🙂

I’ll add my food list for you in my next reply in case you want to take a look😊

 

[Epimetheus]

The hashed parts on the bottem left would be plexiglass with a door hinge to lift if i drilled vents would this provide ample airflow or should i just go with a loose clear plastic fabric lid

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Glad, we've been helpful
You can also check with us your "shopping list" before ordering something. Heating/lightning stuff is usually not cheap and there is a lot of confusion.

Drilling holes in the top of the table will result in loss of heat and humidity. Daily chores in the enclosure such as placing food or spot cleaning provide enough fresh air (tortoises don't need much and the enclosures aren't airtight usually). Check hardware stores if you can get PVC or HDPE panels there - this is the perfect building material for redfoots enclosures. Here is one for example: https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/b...-pvc-enclosed-chamber-–-for-beginners.159220/ Also hydroponic grow tents work nicely and plastic raised garden beds with tent or greenhouse top are good. Anything wooden will rot pretty quick in hot and humid environment.

You can also check this care sheets on redfoots:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/redfoot-tortoise-care-sheet.175319/

Feel free to ask questions!

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Oooo I like the design! I think plexiglass should work fine, you will get away without drilling vents, the enclosure won’t be air tight and doing daily husbandries like water changes and food etc is enough air exchange, with out the vents humidity should hold better😊
A greenhouse pvc style covering will do the job too, just depends which you prefer going with.
What kind of material were you planning to use for the table? Just make sure it’s not one that will release any kind of toxic fumes, even though they’ll be pond lining so the tort won’t have direct contact with it, because it’s a closed chamber it’s important to made sure the material is safe👍
When setting it up, run it to make sure all your levels are reading nicely(the temp gun is very handy for this)and until there’s no plastic smell from the lining and other materials, sometimes they emit fumes that need time to dissipate with the heat, don’t place tort inside until its odourless🙂

I think the only thing I will say is the tortoise may outgrow a 3x3 quite quickly for the amount of effort to build(depending on your handy skills)so perhaps something like a raised garden bed would be more cost effective and you can go a bit bigger with them, theres usually greenhouse toppers that fit the sizes too😊
But I guess weigh up cost of materials and see what you think🙂

 

[COmtnLady]

Welcome to the Forum. Here really does have the best, most up-to-date info on raaising thriving tortoises. There is ssoooo much bad info elsewhere online and out in the regular world. (Especially pet stores!) I read stuff here and if I have questions, ask, before I order something, or go buy something. Checking here first will save you a lot of brain damage and money.

The coco coir in your picture looks too dry. I buy mine in the compacted bricks form, then soak them in a bucket** of water until they release and expand, and become a mushy mess without lumps. Then I wring/press/squeeze out as much water as I can before packing it into the plastic liner for a base layer, about three inches thick. You shouldn't be able to see any standing water from it if you've wrung it out enough. If you have a "window" the lowest part will look darker because it is damp, but not soggy-wet. Then I put about that many more inches of dry orchid bark over it and smooth it out nicely. Anytime the humidity drops below 80% I pour a glass or so of warm water into the corners. It will level itself through the bottom layer and evaporate its way up, which keeps the humidity up and the surface layer relatively dry. You do NOT need to change your substrate much at all, so don't think you have to go through this process even once per year. Once its set it should be fine for a long time.

** Always use a bucket that hasn't been used for anything with cleaning sollutions or soap in it. Its really difficult to get that stuff gone if the bucket was used to wash a floor or the car. I'm lucky, I live near an ice cream store that makes their own, and I can get food grade plastic buckets in 3 and 5 gallon sizes. Maybe some restaurant might have ones they are getting rid of also. Its worth checking. I just don't trust buying ones when you don't know what they've been sprayed with or had spilled on them during shipment to Wally World or wherever.

Because Red Foots need humidity in the 80%s and temps in the 80-85 F/27-30C, its a bit of juggling to have it be humid enough without causing fungus on their plastron, or even sometimes on the surface of your substrate. If they do get a fungal infection, you just use the cheapest athlete's foot cream you can find at the dollar store for several days and it usually clears up. To correct too damp of surface fungus, open the lid for a little bit to dry it out somewhat. (But don't let it loose too much heat.) It isn't all that complicated, in no time you'll have a feel for it.

As was said above, don't drill vent holes in your new habitat or the humidity/temps will never balance out.

Be sure to check the heat levels below the CHEs and other "hot" lamps. If its too hot you'd think the tortoise would move away, but that doesn't always happen. Its easy for their shells to get too hot and dried out, even burnt, if the temps "at tortoise-height" are too hot. This also causes pyramiding.

Soaks are really important. If the tortoise is very young, at least once per day. If its an adult it can do ok with longer between than that, but they really benefit from it. Warm to your skin, not hot water, as deep as where their upper and lower shell joins together... at least a half hour each time. Be sure to stay close, if they flip (and they will) they can drown if its too deep or no one rights them soon enough. Don't be concerned if they act like they are trying to escape, its good exercise for them.


Be sure to read all the links (more than once) that have been included if everyone else's responses for you. There is a lot of good info in them.

Weclome aboard!