Sprouts??

Icethetortoise

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0A8E0F11-0392-4A90-BA12-FF86E3C7E3B4.jpeg 3207D323-9E8A-400F-87D1-697B45E1A6AE.jpeg Hey friends! I’m definitely super new to this tortoise thing. I’ve been doing so much research but it seems like everyone does it a little different.

Can I grow sprouts and feed them to Ice?

Ice is a Redfoot, who is 6 months old.

I can’t seem to find greens that Ice will eat lots of. Ice will nibble on anything I feed him, but I was thinking maybe sprouts?

I garden a lot so we have tried: kale, spring mix, arugula, romaine, parsley, carrot tops, nasturtiums, hibiscus, basil, and Swiss chard.

Ice does have a hibiscus plant in the enclosure, with no bottom leaves and I have seen him eat it.

I am just nervous that he’s not getting enough greens.

I have tried not adding anything else, just greens but than Ice eats nothing! I’m concerned. So I end up feeding him greens and something else, like a little mushrooms, zucchini, squash, sometimes fruit. So at least he’s eating something.

Ice loves mushrooms the most for sure, over any fruit, which I was shocked by actually.

We live on Vancouver Island, Ice lives in a 2x4 ft enclosure, we have a mercury vapour bulb, and a ceramic heater for night. Temperature is awesome it never gets below 21C and the basking area in the day is around 36-38C, humidity is not 80% all the time, but he has lots of microclimates and 2 humid hides, and I soak him everyday and mist down the enclosure twice a day at least. Oh and he’s on a deep litter bed. (Minimum 6” deep) Coco coir? And organic soil mixed, with a mulch of the coconut husk?? The chunkier coconut stuff mixed w Sphagnum moss.

I think that’s everything I need to include?? Thank you and sorry for my giant post.
 

jsheffield

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I feed my torts wheatgrass sprouts as a part of their diet on a pretty regular basis... I wet a tablespoon of seeds in the smallest sized mason jars everyday until they sprout and grow stems about 2 inches long, then I water them one final time and bury the jars in the enclosures. I take them out when the torts seem uninterested, and begin the process again.

Jamie
 

Yvonne G

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That's an awfully pretty baby. I'm afraid I can't offer you any advice, as I haven't ever taken care of young redfooted tortoises. But, if they're anything like little box turtles, animal protein usually gets them started. Try chopping up the greens offering into tiny pieces, then strain off some of the juice from a can of cat food onto the greens and mix it all up until the greens are coated. Another way is to buy a couple jars of the more exotic flavors of Gerber strained fruit (apple/blueberry, banana/mango, etc) and mix that in with the greens until they're coated with the baby food.
 

Icethetortoise

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That's an awfully pretty baby. I'm afraid I can't offer you any advice, as I haven't ever taken care of young redfooted tortoises. But, if they're anything like little box turtles, animal protein usually gets them started. Try chopping up the greens offering into tiny pieces, then strain off some of the juice from a can of cat food onto the greens and mix it all up until the greens are coated. Another way is to buy a couple jars of the more exotic flavors of Gerber strained fruit (apple/blueberry, banana/mango, etc) and mix that in with the greens until they're coated with the baby food.


Ooh maybe I could blend up some fruit and coat the greens in that, that’s a genius idea actually. I’m going to try it tomorrow.
 

ZEROPILOT

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Greens are not a huge part of a Redfoots diet.
Greens, cactus pads, flowers, mushrooms, protein and fruit. 50% fruit is about what I feed.
Redfoot can eat the widest variety of food of any tortoise species. Don't stress yourself on the greens.
Offer variety.
Be careful with that heat!
100 Farenheit is hot enough to make a Redfoot very ill.
84 is your target. (29c)
They need warmth. Not high heat. And very high humidity.
They also dislike bright lights.
I reccomend a strip florescent "5.0" for U.V. and a CHE for heat. This combination will provide safe U.V. without losing all of your humidity and warmth without the harsh light or heat that your current light is giving off.
 
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Icethetortoise

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Greens are not a huge part of a Redfoots diet.
Greens, cactus pads, flowers, mushrooms, protein and fruit. 50% fruit is about what I feed.
Redfoot can eat the widest variety of food of any tortoise species. Don't stress yourself on the greens.
Offer variety.
Be careful with that heat!
100 Farenheit is hot enough to make a Redfoot very ill.
84 is your target. (29c)
They need warmth. Not high heat. And very high humidity.
They also dislike bright lights.
I reccomend a strip florescent "5.0" for U.V. and a CHE for heat. This combination will provide safe U.V. without losing all of your humidity and warmth without the harsh light or heat that your current light is giving off.

i will move the light up so it’s not as hot, it’s only on the top of his hide, that’s closest to the light, but I can easily adjust that.

There’s so many different feeding guidelines! I am always trying different things, But maybe I can add more fruit.

I thought the majority of their diet should be greens and fruit 1-2 times a week. Once a week we feed him eggs, or chicken, and I added earthworms into his enclosure to help the plants and we have seen him eat one for sure.

we have only had him or her since August 22, it’s confusing knowing what to feed I have to say.
 

Icethetortoise

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Greens are not a huge part of a Redfoots diet.
Greens, cactus pads, flowers, mushrooms, protein and fruit. 50% fruit is about what I feed.
Redfoot can eat the widest variety of food of any tortoise species. Don't stress yourself on the greens.
Offer variety.
Be careful with that heat!
100 Farenheit is hot enough to make a Redfoot very ill.
84 is your target. (29c)
They need warmth. Not high heat. And very high humidity.
They also dislike bright lights.
I reccomend a strip florescent "5.0" for U.V. and a CHE for heat. This combination will provide safe U.V. without losing all of your humidity and warmth without the harsh light or heat that your current light is giving off.


Sorry, also in the enclosure there are so many microclimates, in regards to temperature and humidity, I have thermometer strips everywhere and there is definitely not one overall temperature. The breeder we got him from said that was important and the deep litter so Ice can create burrows.
 

Toddrickfl1

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I grow chia seeds in my enclosure and my Redfoot enjoys eating them.
 

ZEROPILOT

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Sorry, also in the enclosure there are so many microclimates, in regards to temperature and humidity, I have thermometer strips everywhere and there is definitely not one overall temperature. The breeder we got him from said that was important and the deep litter so Ice can create burrows.
Redfoot don't generally burrow. But babies like to hide when they sleep.
Redfoot aren't a species that need a "cool side and warm side" like some other species. We provide a warm ambient enclosure wide temperature.
I didn't see anything alarming at all in your enclosure. Just the few issues I mentioned. Such as the hot spot of 38 degrees Celsius. That temperature would very quickly cause heat stroke in a Redfoot.
Weather you choose to take advice or not is your decision.
 

Icethetortoise

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Redfoot don't generally burrow. But babies like to hide when they sleep.
Redfoot aren't a species that need a "cool side and warm side" like some other species. We provide a warm ambient enclosure wide temperature.
I didn't see anything alarming at all in your enclosure. Just the few issues I mentioned. Such as the hot spot of 38 degrees Celsius. That temperature would very quickly cause heat stroke in a Redfoot.
Weather you choose to take advice or not is your decision.

I moved the light, so it’s not as hot, but it’s literally one spot on top of his hide that would ever get up to that temperature, ice would have to climb on top of the hide to get there, the rest of the enclosure is not that hot for sure.

Ice digs in the substrate all the time, he makes little tunnels and burrows. Ice also basks in the heat and then also hangs out under plants on the cooler side.

I am shocked to hear they aren’t supposed to burrow and microclimates aren’t ideal to be totally honest.

I did move the light up so it’s not as hot.

Don’t they know what they need? Like if ice wants more humidity he would burrow or go into a humid hide, if he needs more heat he would go into somewhere warmer, and if it’s too hot they would go somewhere cooler??

I’m not trying to argue, honestly I just was under the impression having multiple options was better. Trying to mimic nature as much as possible.
 

daniellenc

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I moved the light, so it’s not as hot, but it’s literally one spot on top of his hide that would ever get up to that temperature, ice would have to climb on top of the hide to get there, the rest of the enclosure is not that hot for sure.

Ice digs in the substrate all the time, he makes little tunnels and burrows. Ice also basks in the heat and then also hangs out under plants on the cooler side.

I am shocked to hear they aren’t supposed to burrow and microclimates aren’t ideal to be totally honest.

I did move the light up so it’s not as hot.

Don’t they know what they need? Like if ice wants more humidity he would burrow or go into a humid hide, if he needs more heat he would go into somewhere warmer, and if it’s too hot they would go somewhere cooler??

I’m not trying to argue, honestly I just was under the impression having multiple options was better. Trying to mimic nature as much as possible.

He's burrowing because he's overheated and cooling off, but then basking because he gets too cold while buried. In an open top in a cool climate it's just not possible to provide a stable heat/humidity environment and MVB's get waaaaay too hot for a RF plus dry out the cage. I'd get a cheap piece of plexi glass to seal the top and mount a CHE on a thermostat instead. .
 

Icethetortoise

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He's burrowing because he's overheated and cooling off, but then basking because he gets too cold while buried. In an open top in a cool climate it's just not possible to provide a stable heat/humidity environment and MVB's get waaaaay too hot for a RF plus dry out the cage. I'd get a cheap piece of plexi glass to seal the top and mount a CHE on a thermostat instead. .

is a CHE a ceramic heat emitter? Because I have one of those on a flip for night time.

I moved the light up so now the hottest part is 30C and it never gets below 20C anywhere in the enclosure.

I’m going to get my partner to put plexiglas over half of it, that will help keep humidity in I’m assuming??

The lights and heater are in the way to cover anymore of it.


I asked the breeder about deep bedding and keeping it all the same temperature and burrowing, this is what he said...


“It is always a good idea to have substrate deep enough for young tortoises to burrow into. It does create a microclimate which allows them to regulate their temperature and humidity levels. You want a temperature variation from one end of the pen to the other. It's not healthy for them to always be kept at a certain temperature.

Red foots are a species that can have fruit as a small percentage of their diet but the bulk of their diet should be dark leafy greens. Greens should make up roughly 70% of their diet. Vegetables about 25% and fruit only about 5% of their diet. They can even have very small amounts of protein as treats occasionally. ”
 

Icethetortoise

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He's burrowing because he's overheated and cooling off, but then basking because he gets too cold while buried. In an open top in a cool climate it's just not possible to provide a stable heat/humidity environment and MVB's get waaaaay too hot for a RF plus dry out the cage. I'd get a cheap piece of plexi glass to seal the top and mount a CHE on a thermostat instead. .


Ok I got the plexiglass. We literally got it on last night so my partner still needs to attach hinges and then we will hand the ceramic heater better without the duct tape haha.

I put the reflection tape around the hole where the ceramic heater is just in case it ever touches the edge.

The humidity is staying in much better now it’s around 70-80 on the side with the light and 90-80 on the side without the light.

I have so many thermometer stickers around the enclosure but it ranges from 28-29 C in the warmest spot and then there’s lots of microclimates but nothing is lower than 22 C ever.

This is better now?

I don’t have the other kind of light unfortunately, and the ceramic heater we use for nighttime. When it’s time to get a new bulb for this one I will just get the other light.

I hope this is what I was suppose to do.
 

TammyJ

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is a CHE a ceramic heat emitter? Because I have one of those on a flip for night time.

I moved the light up so now the hottest part is 30C and it never gets below 20C anywhere in the enclosure.

I’m going to get my partner to put plexiglas over half of it, that will help keep humidity in I’m assuming??

The lights and heater are in the way to cover anymore of it.


I asked the breeder about deep bedding and keeping it all the same temperature and burrowing, this is what he said...


“It is always a good idea to have substrate deep enough for young tortoises to burrow into. It does create a microclimate which allows them to regulate their temperature and humidity levels. You want a temperature variation from one end of the pen to the other. It's not healthy for them to always be kept at a certain temperature.

Red foots are a species that can have fruit as a small percentage of their diet but the bulk of their diet should be dark leafy greens. Greens should make up roughly 70% of their diet. Vegetables about 25% and fruit only about 5% of their diet. They can even have very small amounts of protein as treats occasionally. ”
Just my two cents: so much is not right here and you have got strange and inappropriate advice from "the breeder". Please watch for overheating most of all, not to mention the wacky sounding advice about the redfoots' diet!
Good luck, time will tell, but sadly it's often the much loved animal that pays for our mistakes.
 

Icethetortoise

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Just my two cents: so much is not right here and you have got strange and inappropriate advice from "the breeder". Please watch for overheating most of all, not to mention the wacky sounding advice about the redfoots' diet!
Good luck, time will tell, but sadly it's often the much loved animal that pays for our mistakes.

the enclosure is not too hot, as per the advice I moved the Light and closed the enclosure with plexiglass.

temperature is 29-30 in the hot side and 24-22 on the cooler side. Humidity is at 70 on the side with the light and 90 on the other side.

I garden so Ice eats an extremely varied diet, I have been feeding him more fruit than the breeder has suggested, along with occasional protein about once a week, such as boiled eggs and prawns. Ice eats many different kinds of greens and veggies and mushrooms as well as fruit.

sorry I’m not sure what I’m doing that is “so wrong” we love Ice, he’s part of our family (or she) so if I should be doing something differently please let me know.

I have already made changes just based on this thread so, I’m not sure what you’re referring to.
 

Toddrickfl1

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Ok I got the plexiglass. We literally got it on last night so my partner still needs to attach hinges and then we will hand the ceramic heater better without the duct tape haha.

I put the reflection tape around the hole where the ceramic heater is just in case it ever touches the edge.

The humidity is staying in much better now it’s around 70-80 on the side with the light and 90-80 on the side without the light.

I have so many thermometer stickers around the enclosure but it ranges from 28-29 C in the warmest spot and then there’s lots of microclimates but nothing is lower than 22 C ever.

This is better now?

I don’t have the other kind of light unfortunately, and the ceramic heater we use for nighttime. When it’s time to get a new bulb for this one I will just get the other light.

I hope this is what I was suppose to do.
Sounds perfect actually. Good temperature and humidity. Your little ice should thrive in these conditions. As far as diet, Redfoots can eat a lot of fruit. Just make sure you feed a nice variety and you'll be fine. I feed a little fruit and or vegetables, and greens daily. Protein once a week.
 

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