MoreCowbellAz
Member
We're hibernating for the first time this year (yikes) using the fridge method (double yikes) and would like to know if orchid bark is a good substrate for fridge hibernation. That's what I use in her indoor enclosure, so I have plenty and would prefer to keep using it but was wondering about the dust since she'll be digging a lot. See below for some more details if you're interested.
Second question - with the fridge method, I have an aquarium 100 L/hr air pump on hand in case that's the best way to go (as described at Tortoise Trust), but is that necessary or is it better to just open the door for a minute a few times a week? I'll do whatever is best for the DT, I've come to far to blow it now on something simple.
FYI, some of you may remember me, I rescued this few week old DT exactly 3 years ago and had to learn QUICKLY all about DT's and you all were life savers, literally. She (I think it's a she) was in rough shape when I found her, shell and skin looking dry as a bone. Fast forward 3 years to now, she's doing fantastic, beautiful shell grew from 1.5" to 5.5", weighs 674 grams, and strong and healthy. I don't know what I would've done without the info on this board.
So now that she's got the clean bill of health from the vet I'm going to hibernate her this year for the first time (super nervous already). I just got a beverage cooler I'm testing in advance to make sure I can get a stable 50 degree temp, reading a lot about getting the DT in and out of hibernation safely, found a suitable sized box (I went with a clear one 13"x11"x9" (tall enough she won't be tempted to try to climb out if she becomes active for some reason, but also has a lid), and am putting the final details together. I have 2 Acu-rite digital thermometers/hygrometers, one with a remote probe to go inside the hibernation box next to the tort, one for outside the box but still in the fridge that shows daily max/min. I chose 2 just so I can compare in case one fails. Right now she's still super active and eating a lot, but she'll be starting to slow down soon I expect.
Anyway, orchid bark ok? And air pump or no air pump?
Second question - with the fridge method, I have an aquarium 100 L/hr air pump on hand in case that's the best way to go (as described at Tortoise Trust), but is that necessary or is it better to just open the door for a minute a few times a week? I'll do whatever is best for the DT, I've come to far to blow it now on something simple.
FYI, some of you may remember me, I rescued this few week old DT exactly 3 years ago and had to learn QUICKLY all about DT's and you all were life savers, literally. She (I think it's a she) was in rough shape when I found her, shell and skin looking dry as a bone. Fast forward 3 years to now, she's doing fantastic, beautiful shell grew from 1.5" to 5.5", weighs 674 grams, and strong and healthy. I don't know what I would've done without the info on this board.
So now that she's got the clean bill of health from the vet I'm going to hibernate her this year for the first time (super nervous already). I just got a beverage cooler I'm testing in advance to make sure I can get a stable 50 degree temp, reading a lot about getting the DT in and out of hibernation safely, found a suitable sized box (I went with a clear one 13"x11"x9" (tall enough she won't be tempted to try to climb out if she becomes active for some reason, but also has a lid), and am putting the final details together. I have 2 Acu-rite digital thermometers/hygrometers, one with a remote probe to go inside the hibernation box next to the tort, one for outside the box but still in the fridge that shows daily max/min. I chose 2 just so I can compare in case one fails. Right now she's still super active and eating a lot, but she'll be starting to slow down soon I expect.
Anyway, orchid bark ok? And air pump or no air pump?