Switching lights after aritcles with Tom's comments..

kiresmom

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Hi everyone, I need advice with a planned light change in my indoor enclosures. After reading many articles on this forum saying MVBs are not ideal, and fluorescent tube bulbs are better for UVB with a flood light from the hardware store for heat, I'm ready to make the change. Tom's comments especially have stood out and really encouraged me to want to make this change. My 4 box turtles and 1 Russian are under MVBs while indoor for 8 months out of the year, they get to live outside for 4 months as we live in Ohio. (They all live in separate enclosures before anyone gets too upset. Some of them would would kill each other if they lived together! I cringe when I read the "I want to get my turtle a friend" posts on here, but I'm rambling.) But they have had these types of bulbs for almost 15 years, changed every 6 months. My concern is that such an abrupt change might be upsetting to them visually and cause them to possibly stop eating or soaking? Should I maybe change just the MVBs to flood lights first, then add the fluorescent bulbs a few days or weeks later? All 4 turtles are over 20 years old, and the Russian is over 30. They are all in excellent health and are currently eating well. I am a registered vet tech married to a veterinarian and sadly, we received ZERO exotics education in school. Thanks to forums like this and also to people like you all who have loved their own turtles for decades, I can get reliable information to take care of my own pets and pass on to my clients in my animal hospital. Much thanks!
 

Markw84

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The main issues with MVB bulbs are:

They run very hot and will overheat a closed chamber. So won't work there.
Since they run so hot, as they age, the spectrum shifts slightly over a fairly quick time. The first thing you start to lose is the UVB part. So they don't last long as good UVB producers.
They put out a LOT of IR-A. Although IR-A has some benefit and is needed, too much of a good thing exacerbates pyramiding. And there is too much with a MVB. An incadescnet flood bulb still gives IR-A but a much more reasonable amount. This is particularly important while tortoises are young and growing.

Since your turtles and tortoise have been doing well and are well past any pyramiding stage concerns, I don't think you really need to make a change unless you are simply tired of changing out the MVB every 3-4 months. A good UVB T5 tube will last at least 2-3 years.

As far as the change for your chelonians, If you set things up right, they will actually probably do better with increases activity and overall well-being. It is amazing how much better reptiles do with proper lighting. Almost every enclosure I see pictures of actually has way too little light. With the setup you are considering, there are really 3 lighting elements you will need.

A good daylight ambient lighting. I use good LEDs for this now. You need a good, bright daylight simulation. that means - a 5000k-6000k color and preferably a CRI of 90 or better. I like bulbs that emit around 1000 lumens and I use 4 of them in a 3x4 ft enclosure to give you the coverage. This is BRIGHT! There are quite a few good LED bulbs that now fit in that category. You are simulating what light is like outside in the daytime. It takes quite a bit of light to come close to daylight conditions as opposed to what we all consider bright indoor conditions.

Now add your UVB. I like the T5 HO 12% tubes. That way you can place it about 20"-24" above substrate a get a nice wide UVB zone that will extend into the shade edge areas you should also be providing.

Now add your lower wattage basking incanddescent flood bulb that should be close to the middle of your UVB zone for a good basking zone.

Add lots of natural cover to give the light gradients needed. Removing light bulbs to create darker areas is not the best way to go. You want daylight conditions and create shade. I have some pretty dense plant growth in my enclosures to do this. The more the "forest" type species, the more plants. Not less light!

When setting up enclosures this way I get so many remarks from people on how they cannot believe how much more active and better appetite and "natural" acting their reptiles are.
 

Tom

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I agree with Mark. After all those years, pyramiding isn't really a concern any more. If what you are doing is working for your full grown adults, I'd leave it be.

Having said that, if you want to change because it would be a better way to go and also save some money, well, I fully support that too.

If you had a youngster with a lot of growing to do, I would discourage the MVB. In your case, the issues Mark mentioned are less of a problem.
 

kiresmom

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I agree with Mark. After all those years, pyramiding isn't really a concern any more. If what you are doing is working for your full grown adults, I'd leave it be.

Having said that, if you want to change because it would be a better way to go and also save some money, well, I fully support that too.

If you had a youngster with a lot of growing to do, I would discourage the MVB. In your case, the issues Mark mentioned are less of a problem.
 

kiresmom

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Thanks for the help. I think I want to proceed with the change and see if they seem to like the difference. I guess I can always change back if not. I haven't bought fluorescent bulbs in a long time. Where do you guys recommend purchasing your bulbs and fixtures? I get my Mvbs from a company that sells to animals hospitals only but they don't sell fixtures or bulbs longer than 18". And obviously pet stores aren't an option....
 
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Tom

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Thanks for the help. I think I want to proceed with the change and see if they seem to like the difference. I guess I can always change back if not. I haven't bought fluorescent bulbs in a long time. Where do you guys recommend purchasing your bulbs and fixtures? I get my Mvbs from a company that sells to animals hospitals only but they don't sell fixtures or bulbs longer than 18". And obviously pet stores aren't an option....
I get mine from http://www.lightyourreptiles.com
 

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