Tortoise flipping over

[Claire walsall]

My Herman will not stop scratching to get out his enclosure. It’s a daily event to find him flipped over with his legs just going crazy. There is no way he could ever flip himself back. He spends so much time climbing the walls. When he sees anyone look in he goes mad to be picked up and let run around the house. I’m so worried that he would be there for hours before I’m home. My enclosure is attached any advise would be appreciated.

 

[zolasmum]

How old is he? It is very difficult to stop them doing this - do you have a garden where you can put an enclosure for him for part of the day? Have you let him run round the house previously? It's partly the time of year - he will probably calm down eventually, after having driven you mad with anxiety.
Angie (from Devon)

 

[Claire walsall]

He’s just over 2 years old. I do have an enclosure outside but only take him out when I’m outside. If I put my hand in to change his food he runs to me and climbs on my hand to come out. He is really needy and when he’s out follows me all the time. . He is scratching up every side of the enclosure. Not really sure how to stop this. finding him upside down is becoming a regular occurrence and happened twice today…

 

[Tom]

He’s just over 2 years old. I do have an enclosure outside but only take him out when I’m outside. If I put my hand in to change his food he runs to me and climbs on my hand to come out. He is really needy and when he’s out follows me all the time. . He is scratching up every side of the enclosure. Not really sure how to stop this. finding him upside down is becoming a regular occurrence and happened twice today…

First stop letting him roam loose on the floor. Its not safe and it can't be made safe. No matter how closely you supervise, something will eventually happen.

Next is the enclosure.
1. You need some deep damp substrate for him to dig in to, but that won't work well in a wooden box. You need something that can stand up to moisture.
2. The enclosure is too small. Small enclosures cause all sort of problems and this is one of them.
3. It is way too barren and open. Clip some branches from tortoise safe plants and drop them about in there. Mulberry, grape vines, lavatera, etc... Add some large boulders and large logs. The tortoise feels exposed and unprotected. Add some potted plants and hang some tortoise safe potted plants from the ceiling.
4. I see a spot bulb and a CHE. Its too dim in there. Add some LEDs around the place and brighten it up. Is there UV inside? Replace the spot bulb with a flood.

 

[Sarah2020]

Flipping is a pain but it does stop. As mentioned get more cover ad it is in fear of arrival attack. This could just be a wire grid top . I would look to change to a closed vivarium which has a glass slide door on the front you will need to tape some of the first few inches to avoid your tortoise seeing out . I recommend large low rocks from an equatic store and make the hide a bit higher so it can walk in and out.
I use swell reptiles...https://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/vivexotic-repti-home-compact-vivarium-large-grey
Change the substrate to orchid bark which is less messy and allows burrowing. You can get a water sprayer bottle and spray to keep moist and help with humidity.
It is worth persevering and getting it right as they are a delight to keep all be it hard work. Hope this helps?

 

[Claire walsall]

Flipping is a pain but it does stop. As mentioned get more cover ad it is in fear of arrival attack. This could just be a wire grid top . I would look to change to a closed vivarium which has a glass slide door on the front you will need to tape some of the first few inches to avoid your tortoise seeing out . I recommend large low rocks from an equatic store and make the hide a bit higher so it can walk in and out.
I use swell reptiles...https://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/vivexotic-repti-home-compact-vivarium-large-grey
Change the substrate to orchid bark which is less messy and allows burrowing. You can get a water sprayer bottle and spray to keep moist and help with humidity.
It is worth persevering and getting it right as they are a delight to keep all be it hard work. Hope this helps?

Thanks for replying appreciate the support. I'll make a few changes on your recommendations.

 

[Claire walsall]

First stop letting him roam loose on the floor. Its not safe and it can't be made safe. No matter how closely you supervise, something will eventually happen.

Next is the enclosure.
1. You need some deep damp substrate for him to dig in to, but that won't work well in a wooden box. You need something that can stand up to moisture.
2. The enclosure is too small. Small enclosures cause all sort of problems and this is one of them.
3. It is way too barren and open. Clip some branches from tortoise safe plants and drop them about in there. Mulberry, grape vines, lavatera, etc... Add some large boulders and large logs. The tortoise feels exposed and unprotected. Add some potted plants and hang some tortoise safe potted plants from the ceiling.
4. I see a spot bulb and a CHE. Its too dim in there. Add some LEDs around the place and brighten it up. Is there UV inside? Replace the spot bulb with a flood.

Thanks for the reply. There is not currently much in the enclosure because he is climbing up everything and flipping over. I did have a cave in the middle which he used to hide in but had to remove it. I'll look into some of your suggestions on plants and add more cover. I may buy another enclosure and attach them together to double the space to.
The light and CHE should be fine as this group suggested these.

 

[Tom]

The light and CHE should be fine as this group suggested these.

Someone here recommended a "spot" type bulb?

You are missing at least one or two lighting elements, and this matters to the tortoise:

Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Aesthetics are nice. But something a tortoise doesn't appreciate.
So if there is an item or a decoration that he's been climbing or flipping over on, it needs to be removed.
That may help a bit.

 

[Claire walsall]

Someone here recommended a "spot" type bulb?

You are missing at least one or two lighting elements, and this matters to the tortoise:

Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.

The light I have is attached and I use a CHE. I didn't realise I needed anything else?
Can you check please.

 

[Tom]

The light I have is attached and I use a CHE. I didn't realise I needed anything else?
Can you check please.

That is a halogen. Those should not be used. You need an incandescent flood bulb. Also, it is veery unlikely that a 25 watt bulb is anywhere near warm enough in an open table like that.

The CHE is great, but you also need UV and ambient lighting of some sort.

 

[Claire walsall]

Would you mind sending me a link to what I need to buy please