What am i doing wrong???

[Urbanmonkey]

Hi all

I have a 5 month old horsefield tortoise and would like people to check what im doing to pick fault please.

My tortoise table is 2ft by 4 ft by 1ft deep

Im using mvb 100w bulb from Acadia
Temp is 33 in warm zone and 20 in cool. Drops to about 14/18 over night.

Light reachers 60of table shich is the area he stays in mainly. Table is by a window so also gets natural light.

Currently feeding my tortoise Roman lettuce, rocket and water cress brought from the supermarket. Plus komodo food pellets. I also add carrots, sweet pepers, parsnips and kale every few days. Plus komodo food pellets. Feed him every morning plus fresh water.

Currently growing him food.

Substrate is sterilised soil 3 to 5 inch deep. I plan to add more types of substrate like wood chip in some areas.

I use damp moss as a form of bedding inside his hide so when hes snozzing during the day its humid but dry by night.

Also soak him in warm water for 10 mins every other day.

Also hold him every day to get use to being handled.

 

[Minority2]

Read these links on Russian tortoise care. Follow their guidelines and change whatever is needed:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/b...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

1. Diet needs adjustments. Tortoises need a lot of fiber in their diet. Broad-leaf weeds, flowers, and succulents should favored over store bought greens. Link to explain what fruits and other harmful properties can do to tortoises
https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/tortoise-diet/harmful-properties/

2. Warm and cool side temperatures are too far from one another. Care sheet link has the right numbers you should aim for.

3. Glass windows block out almost all UVB rays. Helpful tidbit.

4. I'm personally not a fan of using soil for indoor enclosures. I consider it too messy for a substrate option in humid indoor enclosures. I also do not plant inside an indoor enclosure because most tortoises will eat and trample them to death before they have time to mature. Coco coir and fine grade orchid/fir bark are highly recommended for retaining humidity and being a relatively easy substrate to clean up after.

5. Moss can be potentially hazardous if eaten. Some people still use it. Others against.

6. Daily soakings of 20-30 minutes in warm (90F) water is generally recommended for young tortoises. Russian hatchlings should have at least a 50-70% humidity level for their enclosure. 70-80% would be even better. Dry conditions are an outdated concept that no longer applies to any tortoise species.

 

[Urbanmonkey]

Read these links on Russian tortoise care. Follow their guidelines and change whatever is needed:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/b...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

1. Diet needs adjustments. Tortoises need a lot of fiber in their diet. Broad-leaf weeds, flowers, and succulents should favored over store bought greens. Link to explain what fruits and other harmful properties can do to tortoises
https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/tortoise-diet/harmful-properties/

2. Warm and cool side temperatures are too far from one another. Care sheet link has the right numbers you should aim for.

3. Glass windows block out almost all UVB rays. Helpful tidbit.

4. I'm personally not a fan of using soil for indoor enclosures. I consider it too messy for a substrate option in humid indoor enclosures. I also do not plant inside an indoor enclosure because most tortoises will eat and trample them to death before they have time to mature. Coco coir and fine grade orchid/fir bark are highly recommended for retaining humidity and being a relatively easy substrate to clean up after.

5. Moss can be potentially hazardous if eaten. Some people still use it. Others against.

6. Daily soakings of 20-30 minutes in warm (90F) water is generally recommended for young tortoises. Russian hatchlings should have at least a 50-70% humidity level for their enclosure. 70-80% would be even better. Dry conditions are an outdated concept that no longer applies to any tortoise species.

Thanks for reply

Made some changes.
Now i have a 3ft 39w arcadia uvb tube light to light the rest of the table. Read alot on this forum about humidity so mines now at 80%. Temp on warm side is 36 c and 26 on the far side and 32 c in the middle. Im still soaking for 20min per day.

My question is whys he not eatting evey day and why does he go to his dark hide during the day and should i prevent it so he gets more light. Also does seem to eat daily.

 

[Minority2]

1. Where was the tortoise purchased from?

2. What type of advice did the retailers give you?

Hatchling tortoises go to sleep a lot. It takes time for them to become acclimated to their surroundings. Some may not have as much of an appetite as others. As long as they're steadily gaining weight, eating daily, temperature and humidity levels are within range, and look energetic while trying to crawl out of their soakings; I wouldn't worry too much.

Though I do have to warn you that many retailers and breeders in UK do sell dry started tortoises. Many people are still unaware of how dry conditions can negatively affect a growing tortoise's developing organs. Some will eventually die prematurely and some may survive but never quite fully develop into the sizes they can really become.

 

[Urbanmonkey]

From a first time breeder and yes they had a dry start from what i saw of the conditions. They had been socked regularly but kept in a open table. Ill start weighing him weekly and keep a log. Im just worried that if he keeps going into his dark hide during day tome hours he wont get enough light.

 

[Minority2]

From a first time breeder and yes they had a dry start from what i saw of the conditions. They had been socked regularly but kept in a open table. Ill start weighing him weekly and keep a log. Im just worried that if he keeps going into his dark hide during day tome hours he wont get enough light.

It doesn't take long for them to take in UV(B) rays. If I remember correctly, a couple minutes is enough. However, these couple of minutes is of their choosing. Meaning that we as owners should at least provide a 3-4+ hour daily cycle of constant UV(B) light in their enclosure.

Hatchling tortoises take time to get used to their new enclosures. Young tortoises also don't seem to be very active in the beginning. In time, your tortoise if healthy, will become less fearful and more curious of his or her surroundings. Until then I suggest you keep handling to a minimum to avoid unneeded stress. Some people may disagree. I don't believe the over-handling benefits the tortoise in any way.

Tortoises do become more brazen as they age. If one wanted to spend more time with their tortoise; that would be a more appropriate time to do so.

 

[Urbanmonkey]

My tot seems happy to be handled when i approach the table she comes over to me. If i place my had in the table she climbs in to my hand. My uvb light is on 12 hrs per day i just wanted to make sure she was getting enough light. Thanks