100 W or 150 W for closed chamber tortoise enclosure

DTNGUYEN0707

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I have a 78in x 39in x 24in closed chamber tortoise enclosure. I want to have good lighting and heating conditions for my tortoises, but am not sure which is more suitable. I screwed in two 150 W basking bulbs (one on each half), and the temperature under the light is around 98 degrees F. The bulb is about 1 foot away from the substrate. The surrounding temperatures are low 90s to high 80s. This sounds like ideal temperatures, but using two 150 W basking bulbs one foot away from the substrate concerns me, and makes me wonder if my laser thermometer gun is inaccurate and I am overheating the tortoises.

I screwed in two 100 W bulbs, and the temperature right under the light is low 90s. The surroundings drop to high 70s.

Could I get some advice as to what I should do moving forward?
 

DTNGUYEN0707

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I am also wondering about the heat escaping my closed chamber enclosure. I built it out of wood, and the door hinges and the top folding covers are not completely flushed with the frame. Should I try to cover these openings up more? Or will I suffocate my tortoises?
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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I have a 78in x 39in x 24in closed chamber tortoise enclosure. I want to have good lighting and heating conditions for my tortoises, but am not sure which is more suitable. I screwed in two 150 W basking bulbs (one on each half), and the temperature under the light is around 98 degrees F. The bulb is about 1 foot away from the substrate. The surrounding temperatures are low 90s to high 80s. This sounds like ideal temperatures, but using two 150 W basking bulbs one foot away from the substrate concerns me, and makes me wonder if my laser thermometer gun is inaccurate and I am overheating the tortoises.

I screwed in two 100 W bulbs, and the temperature right under the light is low 90s. The surroundings drop to high 70s.

Could I get some advice as to what I should do moving forward?
Hello!
Two 150W basking lamps are usually too much. In a well insulated closed chamber, 100W heat source heat is enough to the whole thing at 86F with room temperature of 60F.

Can you post photos of the enclosure and lamps you use? Do you have a digital thermometer/hygrometer to measure air temperatures? Temperature gun shows temperature of the surface and it's not exactly the same as air temperature.
 

DTNGUYEN0707

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Hello!
Two 150W basking lamps are usually too much. In a well insulated closed chamber, 100W heat source heat is enough to the whole thing at 86F with room temperature of 60F.

Can you post photos of the enclosure and lamps you use? Do you have a digital thermometer/hygrometer to measure air temperatures? Temperature gun shows temperature of the surface and it's not exactly the same as air temperature.
*I replied above.

Thanks!
 

wellington

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Sadly that little one should not be housed with the other two which then means the other two should not be housed as a pair.
Temps day and night should never go below 80 with humidity 80% until they are 10 inches and can be moved to live outside.
Changes needed ASAP or that baby will pay.
I would remove some on the decor and the ramp and house and slip the enclosure for the two bigger ones. Then buy a large plastic tote box for the little one. In about another year, the two bigger ones should be able to move outside and then the little one can be moved to the enclosure.
Keep in mind, tortoise shouldn't be housed in pairs and two males should not be housed together unless you have many many acres for them.
 
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wellington

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Also those dog dishes are too high sided and should not be used. You need clay saucers that is big enough their body fits into it. Also the gauges need to be at tortoise height. Heat rises so it's also going to be warmer higher up.
 

wellington

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If you can return the double heat/light fixture I would and get single wide domed ones, much easier to get proper lighting and heat.
Uvb should come from a tube flourescent bulb.
Basking from a incandescent FLOOD bulb, never halogen or mercury.
Ceramic heat emitter (s) for night heat and any added day heat needed
 

DTNGUYEN0707

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If you can return the double heat/light fixture I would and get single wide domed ones, much easier to get proper lighting and heat.
Uvb should come from a tube flourescent bulb.
Basking from a incandescent FLOOD bulb, never halogen or mercury.
Ceramic heat emitter (s) for night heat and any added day heat needed
Ok, I will try my best to make the changes. Thanks!

I have two older ones, and two baby ones. So I’m not sure how I’ll afford keeping each separated since I can’t house them in pairs. Will it be very detrimental that I do house them in pairs? My idea is to separate the large enclosure in half, putting a wooden board in the middle. Would this be a viable option?
 

wellington

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Yes, it can be deadly and it's a constant stress on them. One will Bullying the other constantly. You may not recognize it, seeing you are new to tortoise, but it's not good. Tortoises live alone in the wild. They cross paths with a female only to breed and a male only to fight.
If you can't do it, then rehome some.
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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Ok, I will try my best to make the changes. Thanks!

I have two older ones, and two baby ones. So I’m not sure how I’ll afford keeping each separated since I can’t house them in pairs. Will it be very detrimental that I do house them in pairs? My idea is to separate the large enclosure in half, putting a wooden board in the middle. Would this be a viable option?
That gets more complicated... If you have room space for the four tortoise enclosures you can use portable greenhouse or hydroponic tent as a "close chamber" - to keep temperatures and humidity high and then section it in 4 separate pens. With some planning you will avoid buying separate heating/lightning for every enclosure.

Also, it looks like you can build a "ground floor" under current enclosure (using materials like coroplast + foam insulation boards or thin expanded PVC should make it rather inexpensive). You will need to divide both levels in two enclosures then (probably 2/3s for larger tortoise and 1/3 for smaller). You will need one UVB tube per each level, ideally two basking bulbs for each section, single ambient LED light. And ambient heating (CHE plus thermostat - probably one per section but two CHEs on a single thermostat can probably work too).

For the basking lamps you can use just plain sockets if you have flood type reflector ("mushroom shaped") bulbs.
 

wellington

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The incorrect housing and care is part of the reason they are growing slow
Do you have the room to house them all separately if you end up with all males?
Maybe you need to rethink what you did by getting so many. Rehoming some now is easier then at teen or adult size.
 

DTNGUYEN0707

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I understand. Before I knew of all this, I only thought the main concern was to have a closed chamber enclosure to keep humidity and heat high. I had no idea the care gets this specific. For learning purposes, why can't I house baby tortoises with bigger tortoises? My cousin is in a similar situation like me, and would like to spread the knowledge to him as well.
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

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I understand. Before I knew of all this, I only thought the main concern was to have a closed chamber enclosure to keep humidity and heat high. I had no idea the care gets this specific. For learning purposes, why can't I house baby tortoises with bigger tortoises? My cousin is in a similar situation like me, and would like to spread the knowledge to him as well.
The bigger ones will unfortunately bully the smaller ones, the stress it has on the smaller one can be deadly, we’ve seen it multiple times here sadly😞
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

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If you want, feel free to check out this thread I made, might give you some visual inspo at the bottom for a different kind of closer chamber set up, one that can hopefully be cost effective for you🙂
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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I think, the primary concern here is that tortoises are selfish and have no idea of caring for younger. Probably, it's a better survival strategy - get big and strong before others and grow out of "easy prey" category. Sharing a meal means that we'll have more well fed "easy preys".

In the wild tortoises can spread out and have different options for foraging so competition is less intense. In captive enclosures they will compete for food, water, basking spots in a limited space and weaker ones will always lose.
 

wellington

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I understand. Before I knew of all this, I only thought the main concern was to have a closed chamber enclosure to keep humidity and heat high. I had no idea the care gets this specific. For learning purposes, why can't I house baby tortoises with bigger tortoises? My cousin is in a similar situation like me, and would like to spread the knowledge to him as well.
As already stated, the bigger ones will bully the babies by ramming them, not letting them eat, not letting them bask, or drink or get into the hide, etc, besides the stress on them from being bullied.
Imagine being in a small room with your over grown enemy that keeps bullying you and you can't get away. That's the situation these babies are in.
 

wellington

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As for pairs, imagine the same situation as I said above. Same situation
Stress is a big killer of animals and humans. These babies are living in constant stress.
Doing things right will give you healthier tortoises that are growing normally.
If we could tell you your enclosure is perfect and perfect for your tortoises we would. It's not perfect and it surely is not good for your tortoises and our care is about the tortoises.
The enclosure is very nice, with a few changes will be perfect for a single tortoise.
 

DTNGUYEN0707

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I understand and appreciate everyone's help with my situation. I plan to split the enclosure into two parts (2/3, 1/3), housing one older tortoise on one end, and a baby tortoise on the other end. I also plan to buy a greenhouse cover and make a base for the "lower level" enclosure, separating the tortoises in the same manner.
 

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