Cage info

Riles15

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Does anyone have a aivituvin cage and use a reptitherm pad to keep the hideout side warm? I’m waiting on my cherry head tortoise to arrive and trying to think of ways to keep that side of that cage warm.
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

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Hello and welcome! Unfortunately if it’s the kind of set up I think you’re using(one of those commercial wooden tortoise houses) it simply won’t do for the species you’ve chosen. These guys require a really high humidity, you aren’t going to be able to maintain it in an enclosure like that without making serious adjustments, I’ll add an image below with an idea that may work, but I can promise the material it’s made of will last long😣

For red foots and cherry heads you want to create a 80-86 temperate gradient all over 24/7, no need for a night drop with these guys. You can use ceramic heat emitters to achieve this, they’re none light emitting heat bulbs that run 24/7 on a thermostat. Radiant heat panels can also be used, but these aren’t the same thing as a heat pad, and make sure you aren’t using anything that goes under the set up. All heating should be overhead.

I’d definitely give these threads a read and come back with any further questions!

This housing thread covers correct equipment(uvb, heating bulbs, lighting etc), correct levels, importance of a closed chamber for red foots(only way to maintain the humidity you need indoors), appropriately maintaining the humidity(they are prone to shell rot so this is important! No misters or humidifiers), safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, a diet list and a really handy diet link to check out! If going with a greenhouse, the lower the ceiling height, whilst still allowing for recommended bulb height, the better! But I’ll add some more ideas below for closed chambers

This includes different closed chambers, some work better than others

This idea in particular might help you
074F64EF-E23D-4BDD-A9E4-99F265A2DF89.jpeg

Lastly, this one here is good to go over and keep on hand, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying😊

Really hope they help! Sorry it’s a lot to go over lol, but feel free to ask any further questions! Welcome to the forum🐢💚
 

Riles15

New Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2026
Messages
18
Location (City and/or State)
Pennsylvania
Hello and welcome! Unfortunately if it’s the kind of set up I think you’re using(one of those commercial wooden tortoise houses) it simply won’t do for the species you’ve chosen. These guys require a really high humidity, you aren’t going to be able to maintain it in an enclosure like that without making serious adjustments, I’ll add an image below with an idea that may work, but I can promise the material it’s made of will last long😣

For red foots and cherry heads you want to create a 80-86 temperate gradient all over 24/7, no need for a night drop with these guys. You can use ceramic heat emitters to achieve this, they’re none light emitting heat bulbs that run 24/7 on a thermostat. Radiant heat panels can also be used, but these aren’t the same thing as a heat pad, and make sure you aren’t using anything that goes under the set up. All heating should be overhead.

I’d definitely give these threads a read and come back with any further questions!

This housing thread covers correct equipment(uvb, heating bulbs, lighting etc), correct levels, importance of a closed chamber for red foots(only way to maintain the humidity you need indoors), appropriately maintaining the humidity(they are prone to shell rot so this is important! No misters or humidifiers), safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, a diet list and a really handy diet link to check out! If going with a greenhouse, the lower the ceiling height, whilst still allowing for recommended bulb height, the better! But I’ll add some more ideas below for closed chambers

This includes different closed chambers, some work better than others

This idea in particular might help you
View attachment 398280

Lastly, this one here is good to go over and keep on hand, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying😊

Really hope they help! Sorry it’s a lot to go over lol, but feel free to ask any further questions! Welcome to the forum🐢💚
Thank you for your help!
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
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Does anyone have a aivituvin cage and use a reptitherm pad to keep the hideout side warm? I’m waiting on my cherry head tortoise to arrive and trying to think of ways to keep that side of that cage warm.
That type of enclosure will not work well for any species or age of tortoise, and it is entirely the wrong way to house a red foot. Those pads are also not suitable for tortoises.

You should delay the arrival of your tortoise until you have the correct housing all set up and running. You need a large closed chamber, and you need the correct substrate, heating and lighting. It needs to be all set up, tested, adjusted and ready to go when the tortoise arrives.

In addition to the above linked threads, check this one out for much more current and correct general tortoise info:

All of your questions are welcome!
 

ZEROPILOT

REDFOOT WRANGLER
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Redfoot need an ambient temperature of 80 to 86, with 82-84 being the sweet spot.
A large temperature gradient isn't required, but it's to be expected with most enclosures.
Search CLOSED CHAMBER ENCLOSURES. It will make keeping this tropical species easier for you and better for your tortoise
 

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