Following Tom's Advice, But Still Pyramiding?

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I am following Tom's advise and have 6 babies being raised in a very high humidty and warm enclosure. The walls will actually drip! They get a wide variety of weeds, grasses, cactus, greens, flowers/leaves which are switched up all the time along with a new supplement put out by "Tort Rescue".
One which Melissa has worked on for years.
TNT also gets sprinkled. I'm working more ground up hay into their diet. I provide them with a cuttlebone and see them finally using it. I also sprinkle calcium powder once a.week just to be sure all get it.
They get soaked Muzuri (original) once a week.
I out them outside to graze and sun but most the.time they just hide. Drives me nuts!
Their growth is steady but also wonder if they are starting to get bumpy?
Don't know what else I can possibly do??
What do others think of the shells?
Trying to figure out how to upload pics. Grrr...

 

[[email protected]]

I am following Tom's advise and have 6 babies being raised in a very high humidty and warm enclosure. The walls will actually drip! They get a wide variety of weeds, grasses, cactus, greens, flowers/leaves which are switched up all the time along with a new supplement put out by "Tort Rescue".
One which Melissa has worked on for years.
TNT also gets sprinkled. I'm working more ground up hay into their diet. I provide them with a cuttlebone and see them finally using it. I also sprinkle calcium powder once a.week just to be sure all get it.
They get soaked Muzuri (original) once a week.
I out them outside to graze and sun but most the.time they just hide. Drives me nuts!
Their growth is steady but also wonder if they are starting to get bumpy?
Don't know what else I can possibly do??
What do others think of the shells?
Trying to figure out how to upload pics. Grrr...

The last pic is when we first got them...just a few weeks old.
The first pics are them now. As you can see their enclosure is very humid. They always have water which they walk through all the time - especially after cleaning it! I also soak them several times a week.

 

[TechnoCheese]

The last pic is when we first got them...just a few weeks old.
The first pics are them now. As you can see their enclosure is very humid. They always have water which they walk through all the time - especially after cleaning it! I also soak them several times a week.View attachment 258909View attachment 258910View attachment 258911View attachment 258912View attachment 258913View attachment 258914

They look smooth to me. I love their scutes!

 

[JoesMum]

And to me too. Well done!

 

[Tom]

The last pic is when we first got them...just a few weeks old.
The first pics are them now. As you can see their enclosure is very humid. They always have water which they walk through all the time - especially after cleaning it! I also soak them several times a week.

A couple few things:

• Soak daily.
• Spray the carapace with water several times a day. RO, rain water or distilled will not leave hard water stains.
• What type of basking bulb are you using and how hot is it under it? This can cause pyramiding even in a humid chamber.
• If they were started too dry, it starts the pattern of pyramiding. This is hard to stop once it starts, and there might be some lumpiness until it smooths out with time and size.
• In my experience, tortoise with aberrant scutes are more likely to show some pyramiding, even in good growth conditions.

 

[Melis]

The last pic is when we first got them...just a few weeks old.
The first pics are them now. As you can see their enclosure is very humid. They always have water which they walk through all the time - especially after cleaning it! I also soak them several times a week.View attachment 258909View attachment 258910View attachment 258911View attachment 258912View attachment 258913View attachment 258914

Ahhh I forgot about these beauties! I can’t decide which one I like the best lol. Please start a thread about them with lots of pics so we can watch them grow

 

[drew54]

I have posted a thread with my hatchling when I first got her and now. When I first got her she was pyramiding. Not severe, but enough to know that if I didn't get it under control that it would get worse. I follow Tom's way and it works. Anyway, check it out and see what you think. https://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/meet-nyx.170687/page-2#post-1685611

 

[Cheryl Hills]

The last pic is when we first got them...just a few weeks old.
The first pics are them now. As you can see their enclosure is very humid. They always have water which they walk through all the time - especially after cleaning it! I also soak them several times a week.View attachment 258909View attachment 258910View attachment 258911View attachment 258912View attachment 258913View attachment 258914

Did you get these torts from Arizona? Bob Blume? If so, I have three of his babies and they are doing great.

 

[[email protected]]

A couple few things:

• Soak daily.
• Spray the carapace with water several times a day. RO, rain water or distilled will not leave hard water stains.
• What type of basking bulb are you using and how hot is it under it? This can cause pyramiding even in a humid chamber.
• If they were started too dry, it starts the pattern of pyramiding. This is hard to stop once it starts, and there might be some lumpiness until it smooths out with time and size.
• In my experience, tortoise with aberrant scutes are more likely to show some pyramiding, even in good growth conditions.

I just found out today with the cold snap we have going on the enclosure is not as warm as I thought!
I'm freaking out...
The cooler end is 89°
But the basking area is only at 94°.
I Have to buy a RHP this month!!
I spray the enclosure and babies each day. The walls are wet and the top drips water...especially where the CHE are. The grates they set on are always wet. Wonder how safe it is?
I have put a Kane heat pad under the cage (not directly on top) to bring up the temps and to keep the soil/bark from getting cold.
What do you do regarding the light fixtures getting so wet?
I have a Zoo-Med for spot heat.
Besides a RHP what else should I be doing to correct what is going on?
I don't want pyramid babies!!
I had excellent luck with my Burmese Stars and also my Radiated babies.
They all were very smooth.

 

[[email protected]]

Did you get these torts from Arizona? Bob Blume? If so, I have three of his babies and they are doing great.

Yes...these 6 are from Bob Blome. Actually the parents are his son's.
These are Sudanese.

However...the more "zig-zag - zipper" looking 2 may not be?
My husband picked them out due to the irregular scutes. He's not sure if he picked those 2 out of the right bins?
We just love them!

 

[Tom]

I just found out today with the cold snap we have going on the enclosure is not as warm as I thought!
I'm freaking out...
The cooler end is 89°
But the basking area is only at 94°.
I Have to buy a RHP this month!!
I spray the enclosure and babies each day. The walls are wet and the top drips water...especially where the CHE are. The grates they set on are always wet. Wonder how safe it is?
I have put a Kane heat pad under the cage (not directly on top) to bring up the temps and to keep the soil/bark from getting cold.
What do you do regarding the light fixtures getting so wet?
I have a Zoo-Med for spot heat.
Besides a RHP what else should I be doing to correct what is going on?
I don't want pyramid babies!!
I had excellent luck with my Burmese Stars and also my Radiated babies.
They all were very smooth.

89 on the cool end during the day and 94 for basking sounds ideal. No need to change that.

There is no need to spray the whole enclosure, and the walls and top should be dry. The grates where the lights sit should not be wet. The only thing you might need to spray is the carapace of the tortoises. In a closed chamber like yours, humidity should be staying up without having to spray everything.

It is not safe to put a Kane mat under an enclosure, and I would not use any sort of heat source from underneath for babies.

You should not use a "spot" bulb over tortoises. It will greatly increase the chances of pyramiding. Use a flood type bulb or a round one in a dome.

 

[Markw84]

@[email protected]

It sounds like your lights are on top of the enclosure and not inside??

That would cause a chimney effect where a draft is created and constantly draws the warm, humid air out of the enclosure. As this air meets the cooler air just outside the enclosure, it will condense and will constantly be wet around the opening. No matter what you do, there will always be some drafting around openings where lights sit outside/on top of the enclosure. If you seal it totally around the lights, you will probably constantly burn out the lights. Lights are best hung INSIDE the enclosure.

 

[[email protected]]

89 on the cool end during the day and 94 for basking sounds ideal. No need to change that.

There is no need to spray the whole enclosure, and the walls and top should be dry. The grates where the lights sit should not be wet. The only thing you might need to spray is the carapace of the tortoises. In a closed chamber like yours, humidity should be staying up without having to spray everything.

It is not safe to put a Kane mat under an enclosure, and I would not use any sort of heat source from underneath for babies.

You should not use a "spot" bulb over tortoises. It will greatly increase the chances of pyramiding. Use a flood type bulb or a round one in a dome.

Well...now to figure out how to use this enclosure which I love due to it being plastic!
I have all the vents closed off except where the lights/heating are.
I am going to have my husband drill through the top so I can hang the lights/CHE inside.
Was checking that yesterday.
I put the heat pad under to bring up the temp as I was afraid it was too cold. Will remove that.
Will only spray down the torts and substrate.
I had to use a spot light for the basking area in a small dome fixture as the "tube" which it sets in can only handle that. Tried sitting it on top but it doesn't put enough heat downward.
Ugh...Hope I haven't hurt my babies!!??

 

[[email protected]]

@[email protected]

It sounds like your lights are on top of the enclosure and not inside??

That would cause a chimney effect where a draft is created and constantly draws the warm, humid air out of the enclosure. As this air meets the cooler air just outside the enclosure, it will condense and will constantly be wet around the opening. No matter what you do, there will always be some drafting around openings where lights sit outside/on top of the enclosure. If you seal it totally around the lights, you will probably constantly burn out the lights. Lights are best hung INSIDE the enclosure.

Will be working on correcting that today!
With them inside I hope to not see all the moisture and will feel good about that. Also won't spray down the whole thing like Tom said. Just the babies. [emoji20]

 

[Yvonne G]

I just found out today with the cold snap we have going on the enclosure is not as warm as I thought!
I'm freaking out...
The cooler end is 89°
But the basking area is only at 94°.
I Have to buy a RHP this month!!
I spray the enclosure and babies each day. The walls are wet and the top drips water...especially where the CHE are. The grates they set on are always wet. Wonder how safe it is?
I have put a Kane heat pad under the cage (not directly on top) to bring up the temps and to keep the soil/bark from getting cold.
What do you do regarding the light fixtures getting so wet?
I have a Zoo-Med for spot heat.
Besides a RHP what else should I be doing to correct what is going on?
I don't want pyramid babies!!
I had excellent luck with my Burmese Stars and also my Radiated babies.
They all were very smooth.

Sharon: I think your problem may be with the light. I use a fluorescent tube and a radiant heat panel. The ballast from the light and the heat panel keep the inside temperature of my enclosure (which is exactly like yours) toasty warm all the time with no additional light for heat. Because my house is so cold during the winter, I've had to box in my Vision cage with rigid foam insulation to keep it warm inside.

 

[Yvonne G]

I just found out today with the cold snap we have going on the enclosure is not as warm as I thought!
I'm freaking out...
The cooler end is 89°
But the basking area is only at 94°.
I Have to buy a RHP this month!!
I spray the enclosure and babies each day. The walls are wet and the top drips water...especially where the CHE are. The grates they set on are always wet. Wonder how safe it is?
I have put a Kane heat pad under the cage (not directly on top) to bring up the temps and to keep the soil/bark from getting cold.
What do you do regarding the light fixtures getting so wet?
I have a Zoo-Med for spot heat.
Besides a RHP what else should I be doing to correct what is going on?
I don't want pyramid babies!!
I had excellent luck with my Burmese Stars and also my Radiated babies.
They all were very smooth.

Here's a picture of my Vision cage. You can see the UVB fluorescent tube light hanging from the top, and the radiant heat panel forming a cave in the back right corner. I've been sending very smooth babies south for Will to sell using this method.

 

[[email protected]]

Sharon: I think your problem may be with the light. I use a fluorescent tube and a radiant heat panel. The ballast from the light and the heat panel keep the inside temperature of my enclosure (which is exactly like yours) toasty warm all the time with no additional light for heat. Because my house is so cold during the winter, I've had to box in my Vision cage with rigid foam insulation to keep it warm inside.

Thanks Yvonne! That sounds good on doing a box around it.
I have the 18" florescent tube but it's high up and on the outside.
Will be getting it taken care of today.
Sure wasn't expecting this cold snap!
Glad I checked when I did.
Been really busy and it could easily of gotten over looked.
Getting ready to head to Home Depot...
Thanks!
I've been a nervous weak over this.

 

[[email protected]]

Here's a picture of my Vision cage. You can see the UVB fluorescent tube light hanging from the top, and the radiant heat panel forming a cave in the back right corner. I've been sending very smooth babies south for Will to sell using this method.

View attachment 259031

This is Awesome Yvonne!
My husband will now have a visual of what I am talking about. [emoji8]
I was trying to figure out how to use a tension rod inside to hang from yesterday.
This wooden rod is better yet.
The RHP can be that close to them?
Wow...easier than I thought it would be.
What have you done with the vents?
Covered them up?
I see cords going through them.

 

[[email protected]]

Here's a picture of my Vision cage. You can see the UVB fluorescent tube light hanging from the top, and the radiant heat panel forming a cave in the back right corner. I've been sending very smooth babies south for Will to sell using this method.

View attachment 259031

I also use metal shelving- Muscle Racks. They work out great. Hold a lot of weight and sturdy in earthquakes.
Especially when we had all the 200 gallon aquariums.

 

[Yvonne G]

The RHP is on a thermostat with the sensor just inside the door of the cave. Will plugged all the holes after he ran the cords through one of them. My enclosure is also on a metal rack:



there are a couple shims under the end of the enclosure closest to the door on the right of the picture, tilting the enclosure so the excess water (from flushing out the waterer) runs to the left and exits through a hole drilled in the floor, down the tube and into the bucket. Inside the enclosure, the hole is covered with that coco coir stuff they line hanging plant baskets with, then the feeding tile over that. You can see the digital temperature readout on the left outside of the enclosure.