My enclosure setup + Pyramiding

[goldjackhammer]

Hello!
I'm raising two 7 month olds and a 4 month old.

Thank you for all the information.
I wish I had known this website earlier.

Can you guys give me some feedback on my setup? and I have a few questions.

After reading Tom's sticky thread, I extended my humidifier into their enclosure.
I only turn it off for 7-8 hours during daytime to let them get enough UVB light.
At night, I put a glass cover on top of the enclosure to capture the moist and they sleep inside that fog; the temperature is about 90F on their shells.

The substrate is 2:1 organic top soil and sphagnum peat moss, over which I pour water 2-3 times a day to ensure high humidity.
I also pour water over their shells 2-3 times a day in addition to once daily bathing.

My questions are:

- How long should this care to prevent pyramiding continue? (Until what age would humidity affect pyramiding?)

- Is pyramiding an adaption to increase the surface area for better absorption of water?

- Does high protein diet really cause pyramiding?

Thank you!

 

[wellington]

Wow, you got a lot that needs changing. First that enclosure is way too small for 3 tortoises. The substrate needs to go and use coconut coir or orchid bark or both. The enclosure needs to be closed all day not just at night. Pyramiding is not caused by food but too low humidity which needs to be 80% day and night and a mercury vapor bulb or spot basking light also causes pyramiding.
Not good to put a humidifier in the enclosure. With a proper enclosure you wouldn't need the humidifier.
Please read Toms threads again on sulcata care sheet and closed chamber.

 

[Mrs.Jennifer]

I will let @Tom address this himself, but I do know a humidifier is not the recommended way to increase humidity. “Fog” is not the same thing as beneficial humidity. Humidity is obtained by enclosing the environment to trap moisture that is being evaporated from the substrate.

 

[goldjackhammer]

Wow, you got a lot that needs changing. First that enclosure is way too small for 3 tortoises. The substrate needs to go and use coconut coir or orchid bark or both. The enclosure needs to be closed all day not just at night. Pyramiding is not caused by food but too low humidity which needs to be 80% day and night and a mercury vapor bulb or spot basking light also causes pyramiding.
Not good to put a humidifier in the enclosure. With a proper enclosure you wouldn't need the humidifier.
Please read Toms threads again on sulcata care sheet and closed chamber.

I agree. That's what I thought.
I need to do it again...

 

[goldjackhammer]

I will let @Tom address this himself, but I do know a humidifier is not the recommended way to increase humidity. “Fog” is not the same thing as beneficial humidity. Humidity is obtained by enclosing the environment to trap moisture that is being evaporated from the substrate.

Ok, Thank you!
Yeah.. I bet they can't even see thru the fog.

 

[Tom]

Hello!
I'm raising two 7 month olds and a 4 month old.

Thank you for all the information.
I wish I had known this website earlier.

Can you guys give me some feedback on my setup? and I have a few questions.

After reading Tom's sticky thread, I extended my humidifier into their enclosure.
I only turn it off for 7-8 hours during daytime to let them get enough UVB light.
At night, I put a glass cover on top of the enclosure to capture the moist and they sleep inside that fog; the temperature is about 90F on their shells.

The substrate is 2:1 organic top soil and sphagnum peat moss, over which I pour water 2-3 times a day to ensure high humidity.
I also pour water over their shells 2-3 times a day in addition to once daily bathing.

My questions are:

- How long should this care to prevent pyramiding continue? (Until what age would humidity affect pyramiding?)

- Is pyramiding an adaption to increase the surface area for better absorption of water?

- Does high protein diet really cause pyramiding?

Thank you!

Hello and welcome! Please read this at least twice. It answers every one of your questions and will help you get everything right. Questions and conversation are welcome, and I bet you will have some things to say after taking this all in:

Info For New People. Please Read This First.

Hello and welcome to tortoiseforum.org! We are all glad you are here! There is no other forum like this anywhere. We have tens of thousands of members from all over the world ranging from kids with their first tortoise to people who have been breeding and keeping high end tortoises since the...

tortoiseforum.org

 

[goldjackhammer]

Hello and welcome! Please read this at least twice. It answers every one of your questions and will help you get everything right. Questions and conversation are welcome, and I bet you will have some things to say after taking this all in:

Info For New People. Please Read This First.

Hello and welcome to tortoiseforum.org! We are all glad you are here! There is no other forum like this anywhere. We have tens of thousands of members from all over the world ranging from kids with their first tortoise to people who have been breeding and keeping high end tortoises since the...

tortoiseforum.org

Thank you, I did!

I made a huge enclosure with just $10 for the Gorilla tape lol.
Finally hit that sustainable humidity.
It's actually over 95% humid with temp above 80.

I have a few questions again.

- Do they ever have a hard time breathing oxygen in a closed chamber? since it's so hot and humid..
- Is it normal for them to sleep near the ceramic heater where the temp is over 100F?
- Is the purpose of using incandescent flood bulb just to produce heat? (If my UV light would make a spot to temp 95-100, then I won't need incandescent light right?)

Thank you again!

 

[Tom]

- Do they ever have a hard time breathing oxygen in a closed chamber? since it's so hot and humid.

No. Your enclosure should not be hermetically sealed, so air will be getting in. In your enclosure, with the lights outside and on top, you will have a chimney effect that draws fresh air into the enclosure. The heat and humidity do not reduce the oxygen levels. Also, reptiles need a fraction of the oxygen that an endothermic mammal needs.

- Is it normal for them to sleep near the ceramic heater where the temp is over 100F?

Pretty normal for them to sleep wherever they feel comfortable. The like heat and need heat to function.

- Is the purpose of using incandescent flood bulb just to produce heat? (If my UV light would make a spot to temp 95-100, then I won't need incandescent light right?)

None of the UV bulbs, except a MVB which should not be used, produce enough heat for basking at the distances that are safe for them to be used at. SO I don't see how your non-MVB UV bulb could possibly make a 100 degree basking area.

I also noticed in the pic one of those Bakelite type black plastic fixtures. Those are unsafe and unreliable. There is no light coming out of it, so it seems like you might be using it for the CHE? If yes, that is dangerous. To protect your tortoise and prevent your whole house from burning down, I highly suggest getting another ceramic based fixture like your other one. They can be found for about $13 at Home Depot. I'm going off of memory, but I recall a Home Depot there right on Valley not too far from the freeway?

Keep the questions coming.

 

[goldjackhammer]

No. Your enclosure should not be hermetically sealed, so air will be getting in. In your enclosure, with the lights outside and on top, you will have a chimney effect that draws fresh air into the enclosure. The heat and humidity do not reduce the oxygen levels. Also, reptiles need a fraction of the oxygen that an endothermic mammal needs.


Pretty normal for them to sleep wherever they feel comfortable. The like heat and need heat to function.


None of the UV bulbs, except a MVB which should not be used, produce enough heat for basking at the distances that are safe for them to be used at. SO I don't see how your non-MVB UV bulb could possibly make a 100 degree basking area.

I also noticed in the pic one of those Bakelite type black plastic fixtures. Those are unsafe and unreliable. There is no light coming out of it, so it seems like you might be using it for the CHE? If yes, that is dangerous. To protect your tortoise and prevent your whole house from burning down, I highly suggest getting another ceramic based fixture like your other one. They can be found for about $13 at Home Depot. I'm going off of memory, but I recall a Home Depot there right on Valley not too far from the freeway?

Keep the questions coming.

Oh yeah, there is one near I-15 freeway lol.
I saw that you live in Valencia. my friend lives there. a nice relaxing town.

Ok, I should get rid of that unprofessional fixture. It does get really hot.
I also got a fluorescent tube light, they're so active now prob due to UVA.

Is basking spot is above 110F fine or should i bring the temp down?

 

[Tim Carlisle]

Oh yeah, there is one near I-15 freeway lol.
I saw that you live in Valencia. my friend lives there. a nice relaxing town.

Ok, I should get rid of that unprofessional fixture. It does get really hot.
I also got a fluorescent tube light, they're so active now prob due to UVA.

Is basking spot is above 110F fine or should i bring the temp down?

I try to keep my basking temps within the 95F to 100F range. 110F seems too high for my comfort level.

 

[goldjackhammer]

I try to keep my basking temps within the 95F to 100F range. 110F seems too high for my comfort level.

Yeah, I was uncomfortable too lol
I will change the height tmr.

 

[Tom]

Yeah, I was uncomfortable too lol
I will change the height tmr.

They don't need it over 95-100, and higher can make them pyramid more.

 

[goldjackhammer]

They don't need it over 95-100, and higher can make them pyramid more.

Got it. I just need to work on the ambient temp for them to explore the whole enclosure