Hatchling still not doing well :(

[Amandaconda]

What wattage is that heat mat.

4W to 24W

 

[Anyfoot]

Amanda, I'm not going to lie, there's nothing in that enclosure that I would use for a redfoot. No basking light, no heat mat and no compact UVB.
If that was my enclosure I would have a 100watt che instead of the 150watt basking light and a small fluorescent uvb of 15watt.

What's happening at night when you switch both lights off. Is your 24watt heat Matt holding temps above 80f? Where in the world do you live?

 

[Anyfoot]

@Amandaconda do you have any other spare bulbs? If so, what?

 

[Wherethetortiroam]

Istead of thermostats try timers and have a ceramic heater come on at night and off during the day and vise versa for the lamp. And to check temperatures, get a infrared thermometer.

 

[Amandaconda]

Istead of thermostats try timers and have a ceramic heater come on at night and off during the day and vise versa for the lamp. And to check temperatures, get a infrared thermometer.

we have four thermometers. i do not believe we need another. we have a custom thermostat that regulates the heat temperature. Putting a light on a timer would be a downgrade.

 

[Anyfoot]

@Amandaconda.

Making do with what you have its difficult to meat every need.
So for now if that was me I'd turn off the Matt and the compact UVB.
Just use the basking bulb on your thermostat. Put a plant pot under the basking light so your tort can not bask under it and cook. Put all your hides facing away from the light so at least he can get somewhere dark to hide. Put moss in the hides. Poor some water into the corners of your enclosure. Sink that terrocota dish level to the substrate (ideally you want 2 of them) and fill with water. Feed off of a flat slate, rough tile or rock.
Get your ambient temp 80 to 88. Ideally 82 to 86f. Cover any part of that mesh that the lamp shade is not on to keep HUMIDITY up.
Your diet needs looking at too. Feed weeds if you can.
Long term you need a CHE on a stat and a 5.0 uvb strip on a timer(15" long).
You don't want it too bright.

 

[Amandaconda]

Amanda, I'm not going to lie, there's nothing in that enclosure that I would use for a redfoot. No basking light, no heat mat and no compact UVB.
If that was my enclosure I would have a 100watt che instead of the 150watt basking light and a small fluorescent uvb of 15watt.

What's happening at night when you switch both lights off. Is your 24watt heat Matt holding temps above 80f? Where in the world do you live?

I live in Minnesota. The temperature today is -20 degrees fahrenheit not including windchill. I am not using a CHE because the CHE does not give off light and I do not want my tortoise to become confused when he walks under an area that is really warm and dimly lit. We use a 150W bulb because we live in minnesota where it is freezing and we have enough trouble keeping the heat up as it is.

 

[Tidgy's Dad]

Your bulb is of a type that has been known to hurt tortoises eyes and even cause blindness. Even those that don't often put out inadequate UVB .
You need to replace this bulb with an MVB (mercury vapour bulb) which is heat light and UVB in one, or with a strip UVB light and separate basking bulb.
This needs to be done immediately.
For night you do need a CHE on a thermostat as tortoises cannot sleep properly without complete darkness. Light all night will make him sick.

 

[cmacusa3]

I live in Minnesota. The temperature today is -20 degrees fahrenheit not including windchill. I am not using a CHE because the CHE does not give off light and I do not want my tortoise to become confused when he walks under an area that is really warm and dimly lit. We use a 150W bulb because we live in minnesota where it is freezing and we have enough trouble keeping the heat up as it is.

Where did you hear that a CHE would confuse a tort?

 

[Anyfoot]

I live in Minnesota. The temperature today is -20 degrees fahrenheit not including windchill. I am not using a CHE because the CHE does not give off light and I do not want my tortoise to become confused when he walks under an area that is really warm and dimly lit. We use a 150W bulb because we live in minnesota where it is freezing and we have enough trouble keeping the heat up as it is.

So at night how are you keeping the heat up. With just a 24watt Matt!!!!

 

[Amandaconda]

@Amandaconda.

Making do with what you have its difficult to meat every need.
So for now if that was me I'd turn off the Matt and the compact UVB.
Just use the basking bulb on your thermostat. Put a plant pot under the basking light so your tort can not bask under it and cook. Put all your hides facing away from the light so at least he can get somewhere dark to hide. Put moss in the hides. Poor some water into the corners of your enclosure. Sink that terrocota dish level to the substrate (ideally you want 2 of them) and fill with water. Feed off of a flat slate, rough tile or rock.
Get your ambient temp 80 to 88. Ideally 82 to 86f. Cover any part of that mesh that the lamp shade is not on to keep HUMIDITY up.
Your diet needs looking at too. Feed weeds if you can.
Long term you need a CHE on a stat and a 5.0 uvb strip on a timer(15" long).
You don't want it too bright.

After my tortoise has had a problem with a soft shell I will not be shutting off my UBV light. If I turn off the mat the temperature drops to 69 degrees on one side of the tank and that is way too cold. All my hides are facing away from the light and they all have moss in them as well. Two corners have overflowing water dishes. And we feed him on a flat surface. It doesn't matter if the terracotta plate is level or not because MY TORTOISE DOES NOT MOVE WHATSOEVER DURING THE DAY. HE DOES NOT USE HIS HIDES BECAUSE HE DOES NOT MOVE AT ALL. Again the humidity is NEVER under 70% and when im home it stays at 90% how am i supposed to feed him weeds if we have 3 feet of snow.

 

[Amandaconda]

Your bulb is of a type that has been known to hurt tortoises eyes and even cause blindness. Even those that don't often put out inadequate UVB .
You need to replace this bulb with an MVB (mercury vapour bulb) which is heat light and UVB in one, or with a strip UVB light and separate basking bulb.
This needs to be done immediately.
For night you do need a CHE on a thermostat as tortoises cannot sleep properly without complete darkness. Light all night will make him sick.

Thank you for the info! instead of a CHE at night we use heating mats to keep the temperature at 75 degrees and 80 degrees. is this okay?

 

[Tidgy's Dad]

Thank you for the info! instead of a CHE at night we use heating mats to keep the temperature at 75 degrees and 80 degrees. is this okay?

No.
I don't believe that heating a tortoise from below is good for them. It also causes drying out of the substrate.
A CHE does the job better in my opinion.

 

[Amandaconda]

So at night how are you keeping the heat up. With just a 24watt Matt!!!!

YES IT STAYS AT 75 DEGREES AND 80 DEGREES AT NIGHT

 

[cmacusa3]

We understand that this upsets you about the tortoise but I strongly recommend taking the advice of those like anyfoot that has tons of experience.

 

[Amandaconda]

We understand that this upsets you about the tortoise but I strongly recommend taking the advice of those like anyfoot that has tons of experience.

Is there anyway I can personal message you on this cite? I'd really like your opinion

 

[Anyfoot]

Amandaconda. I'm trying to help you.
You could not be further away from how to look after a redfoot than you are.
If you don't listen your tort will die. Doesn't the fact it's not doing anything now prove to you that your doing it wrong.
At the very least replace that spot light with a CHE, turn the Matt off and keep the uvb on for light. If a 100watt che can't keep that enclosure warm enough it's either because you have the enclosure on a stone cold floor or the heat is getting out of the mesh. Get a 150watt che if you have doubts.

 

[cmacusa3]

Yes of course you can message me.

 

[SarahChelonoidis]

Thank you for the info! instead of a CHE at night we use heating mats to keep the temperature at 75 degrees and 80 degrees. is this okay?

You need it warmer than 75. The heat pads aren't strong enough to get the heat up to where you need it, and higher wattage heat pads are dangerous. That's why people keep recommending the CHE to you.

The compact UVB bulbs have been associated with eye problems, which is why people are recommending you shut it off. A few days with no UVB while you get a new bulb will not lead to a soft shell.

I know it's very hard to take advice when it means replacing most of the supplies you have, but that is the best advice we can give. Your setup isn't suitable for a hatchling redfoot, and you'll need to buy new supplies.

There is also the issue of 'hatchling failure syndrome' which I haven't seen discussed but that you may want to look up.

 

[Amandaconda]

You need it warmer than 75. The heat pads aren't strong enough to get the heat up to where you need it, and higher wattage heat pads are dangerous. That's why people keep recommending the CHE to you.

The compact UVB bulbs have been associated with eye problems, which is why people are recommending you shut it off. A few days with no UVB while you get a new bulb will not lead to a soft shell.

I know it's very hard to take advice when it means replacing most of the supplies you have, but that is the best advice we can give. Your setup isn't suitable for a hatchling redfoot, and you'll need to buy new supplies.

There is also the issue of 'hatchling failure syndrome' which I haven't seen discussed but that you may want to look up.

Thank you so much for explaining and for understanding.
My tank runs 90 degrees on the warm side and 80 degrees on the cooler side in the day. I do have a night light that I could plug in at night that would possibly keep the temp up to 85 degrees on one side. would that help instead of buying a CHE? I dont have ANY funds left