I think my Russian is fat + dehydrated?

Vpvarano

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
19
Location (City and/or State)
Boynton Beach, FL
Hi everyone! I have a Russian tortoise that I adopted 3 years ago. I think he is looking pretty dry and not sure if eyes are slightly sunken? I know for sure he is fat because I can see it, but is not suuuper bad.
Pics are not the best but hopefully you get to see what I want.

I live in south Florida in the palm beach county but I can’t have him in an outdoor enclosure since the house is not mine and landlord doesn’t let me build a good one. So, I have him on an indoor 4’x2’ 2 stories enclosure and I try to takr him out as much as possible to walk, although sometimes is hard since it’s ether too hot (he just burrows himself) or too late during the day when I get home and he’s sleeping.
I try to feed him as varied as I can which to me is not enough but I might be too crazy. I give him small amounts, I read that the size of his shell for greenies is ok.
The base of the diet is Mazury desert tortoise pellets (well soaked) almost every day (I do very little like 5 pieces), green mix, lettuce (leftovers from our fridge, obviously in good shape). I have a flower topper I get in the petstore (just for topping like once a week or less) and sometimes (like once very 2 weeks) I give him some carrots or squash (I cook them but not sure if thats ok). I also have a prickly pear cactus and I give him the new grows every month or so, whenever they grow (if it rains every 2 weeks).
I normally skip feeding him 1 or 2 days a week.
I don’t really soak him much but he has a bug tub for water and sometimes I see poop on it so he definitely goes on it on his own.
Any thoughts or advice? Do you guys think he might be too dehydrated or too fat? Or both? What can I do different?
Thanks in advance! D8374EEC-8C88-4AEE-8546-E971978194CF.jpegB7D698B0-12CF-4AA6-9882-3FEBD4A302AD.jpeg2F868DBA-83B9-4AC8-8799-85C03AF385DA.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 84101927-94F5-4935-B5F7-D83BA498569C.jpeg
    84101927-94F5-4935-B5F7-D83BA498569C.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 5
  • 3F8AA542-6C34-4623-86C4-2F13E54896F9.jpeg
    3F8AA542-6C34-4623-86C4-2F13E54896F9.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 6
Joined
May 21, 2022
Messages
46
Location (City and/or State)
Kansas
If it can't properly enter its shell or if it's legs are puffy then your tortoise might be overweight. I can't tell from the pictures if it's overweight or not but you can check it yourself. To check if it's dehydrated look at its poop and urate. If they are hard, your tortoise might be dehydrated. Soaking everyday for 30 mins. is reccomended to prevent dehydration. For more detailed information you can look at this: Thread 'The Best Way To Raise Any Temperate Species Of Tortoise' https://www.tortoiseforum.org/threa...ise-any-temperate-species-of-tortoise.183131/
Hope this helps!
 

Sarah2020

Well-Known Member
Tortoise Club
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Mar 16, 2020
Messages
1,652
Location (City and/or State)
London, UK
It does not look overweight but as per previous post check diet, and soak,soak,soak!
I think it beak is overgrown (is it overhanging) so suggest a trip to vet to get it trimmed and claws length looked at.
 

Ink

Well-Known Member
Tortoise Club
5 Year Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jun 10, 2016
Messages
2,519
Location (City and/or State)
Virginia
Why do you skip feeding? They graze throughout the day. Carrots have a lot of sugar not good for Russian tortoises. I am not an expert hopefully one will help you soon.
 

Vpvarano

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
19
Location (City and/or State)
Boynton Beach, FL
It definitely enters good in his shell but I feel like he has some fat deposits that look bumpy to me. I think you can see it in one of the pics where he has his head out
 

OliveW

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2022
Messages
286
Location (City and/or State)
Branford, FL
It does not look overweight but as per previous post check diet, and soak,soak,soak!
I think it beak is overgrown (is it overhanging) so suggest a trip to vet to get it trimmed and claws length looked at.

I was going to say the same thing about his beak.

Something I have noticed that seems to be the common denominator in overgrown beaks is it seems to always be tortoises that don't graze outside, or at least not that often. I'm a newbie, FAR from being an expert .... just an observation I've made from reading so much on this forum. I'm not sure why this would make a difference, but it certainly seems to.

If there is one thing I've learned on this forum it's that soaking is the solution to many, many tortoise issues. And doing regular soaks seems to be the best preventative measure to avoid health problems. It's completely bizarre, because before coming here, I would have never thought to soak a tortoise. It would have never even entered my mind.
 

zolasmum

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
May 19, 2015
Messages
2,062
I was going to say the same thing about his beak.

Something I have noticed that seems to be the common denominator in overgrown beaks is it seems to always be tortoises that don't graze outside, or at least not that often. I'm a newbie, FAR from being an expert .... just an observation I've made from reading so much on this forum. I'm not sure why this would make a difference, but it certainly seems to.

If there is one thing I've learned on this forum it's that soaking is the solution to many, many tortoise issues. And doing regular soaks seems to be the best preventative measure to avoid health problems. It's completely bizarre, because before coming here, I would have never thought to soak a tortoise. It would have never even entered my mind.
I noticed his beak is overgrown ,too - putting his food on a rough surface - like stone or slate, or on a terracotta plant saucer would help to file it down over time, but probably seeing a vet would be a good idea to start with.
Angie
 

Lyn W

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
23,527
Location (City and/or State)
UK
It doesn't look overweight to me. Bumpy bits either side of neck could just be muscle - but I'm no expert on tort anatomy hopefully someone who is will be able to tell you more and if it is anything to worry about.
Torts should have fresh water and food available daily. The general rule is to think of the shell as an upturned bowl and feed that amount to start with, but if he wants more - feed more. Torts are grazers and may eat a little then wander off and return for more food during the day.
As others have said shallow (water only up to where top and bottom shells meet) luke/baby warm soaks are good for torts. Bail out water when it cools and top up with warm while he is in and if he struggles to get out that will help him poop.
This is the caresheet you need to make sure you are giving your tort everything he needs and will help with diet.
 

Vpvarano

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
19
Location (City and/or State)
Boynton Beach, FL
It does not look overweight but as per previous post check diet, and soak,soak,soak!
I think it beak is overgrown (is it overhanging) so suggest a trip to vet to get it trimmed and claws length looked at.
Thanks. Yes, his beak has always been slightly overgrown but is not bad at all, and it’s not growing, it’s been the same length since I adopted him 3 years ago. He eats in a hard stone that is the floor of the second story of the enclosure. I am aware that can be trimmed but it really doesn’t seem to interfere with anything and he still has a very big opening of the mouth so I really don’t want to put him through all the vet trimming since it is a very stressful procedure and He’s eating as good as usual (a lot).
 

Vpvarano

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
19
Location (City and/or State)
Boynton Beach, FL
It doesn't look overweight to me. Bumpy bits either side of neck could just be muscle - but I'm no expert on tort anatomy hopefully someone who is will be able to tell you more and if it is anything to worry about.
Torts should have fresh water and food available daily. The general rule is to think of the shell as an upturned bowl and feed that amount to start with, but if he wants more - feed more. Torts are grazers and may eat a little then wander off and return for more food during the day.
As others have said shallow (water only up to where top and bottom shells meet) luke/baby warm soaks are good for torts. Bail out water when it cools and top up with warm while he is in and if he struggles to get out that will help him poop.
This is the caresheet you need to make sure you are giving your tort everything he needs and will help with diet.
Thanks, it is hard to find information specifically about Russian Tortoises like a char of weight or a feeding guide specially for the species.

He does have all those things you mentioned, I just don’t soak him much. I will be soaking him more now. But as I said, I leave in South Florida and humidity here never goes down 50% on the best days so it is pretty humid even inside, so I felt it might be too much to soak him. Although, now that I know it wont hurt to soak him more, I definitely will. Another thing is that I keep top soil as a substrare and the planters are just so he doesn’t kill the plant, but I water them regularly and the water leaks to the dirt to keep it more humid in some places. In their natural habitats the humidity of the ground when they burrowed it is a lot higher than the air one.
 

Vpvarano

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
19
Location (City and/or State)
Boynton Beach, FL
I noticed his beak is overgrown ,too - putting his food on a rough surface - like stone or slate, or on a terracotta plant saucer would help to file it down over time, but probably seeing a vet would be a good idea to start with.
Angie
He does eats on a stone and he also has been seeing by a vet. His beak is slightly overgrown since I adopted him and it is not too bad at all, gives him no problems. I adopted him from the wildlife center where he was cleared form any sickness and the beak haven’t grown at all in 3 years. It has been the same all this time.
 

Vpvarano

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
19
Location (City and/or State)
Boynton Beach, FL
Why do you skip feeding? They graze throughout the day. Carrots have a lot of sugar not good for Russian tortoises. I am not an expert hopefully one will help you soon.
Hi! I skipped feedings for a few reasons, but the main one is because I do not brumate him and in the wild they won’t eat every day year round. As a matter of fact they don’t eat anything for many months. I know the captive setting is not the same but feeding them every day definitely shortens their lives. I’ve done tons of research about it and it doesn’t really affects them to skip some meals, many actually recommend it.
As per the carrots I don’t do it a lot or in quantity and I am aware they are sugary, although I don’t feed him anything else with decent amounts of carotenoids (red/yellow pigments) that are essential for vision health, so a few times a month he gets a 1/4-1/2 a baby carrot or 2 tiny cubes of squash. It is definitely not enough to make him bad.
 

Vpvarano

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
19
Location (City and/or State)
Boynton Beach, FL
Hi everyone! I have a Russian tortoise that I adopted 3 years ago. I think he is looking pretty dry and not sure if eyes are slightly sunken? I know for sure he is fat because I can see it, but is not suuuper bad.
Pics are not the best but hopefully you get to see what I want.

I live in south Florida in the palm beach county but I can’t have him in an outdoor enclosure since the house is not mine and landlord doesn’t let me build a good one. So, I have him on an indoor 4’x2’ 2 stories enclosure and I try to takr him out as much as possible to walk, although sometimes is hard since it’s ether too hot (he just burrows himself) or too late during the day when I get home and he’s sleeping.
I try to feed him as varied as I can which to me is not enough but I might be too crazy. I give him small amounts, I read that the size of his shell for greenies is ok.
The base of the diet is Mazury desert tortoise pellets (well soaked) almost every day (I do very little like 5 pieces), green mix, lettuce (leftovers from our fridge, obviously in good shape). I have a flower topper I get in the petstore (just for topping like once a week or less) and sometimes (like once very 2 weeks) I give him some carrots or squash (I cook them but not sure if thats ok). I also have a prickly pear cactus and I give him the new grows every month or so, whenever they grow (if it rains every 2 weeks).
I normally skip feeding him 1 or 2 days a week.
I don’t really soak him much but he has a bug tub for water and sometimes I see poop on it so he definitely goes on it on his own.
Any thoughts or advice? Do you guys think he might be too dehydrated or too fat? Or both? What can I do different?
Thanks in advance! View attachment 349701View attachment 349703View attachment 349704
Thank you so much for all your comments and advice. I really appreciate it. I will soak him more for sure. And since you guys think he’s in good weight I’ll keep the schedule for the exercise and feedings.

How could I calculate how old is him? I know counting the lines of the shell doesn’t always tells the truth, but is there any other way to tell? He seems to keep growing, although I think he’s almost done, he’s at around 4-1/2” long.
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
63,482
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
Hi! I skipped feedings for a few reasons, but the main one is because I do not brumate him and in the wild they won’t eat every day year round. As a matter of fact they don’t eat anything for many months.
Its true that when they are buried beneath the snow and their body temp is in the 30s for brumation they don't eat for months at a time, but this is not the same as when temps are warm and they are up and active. Two totally different scenarios. Given the choice, when weather is favorable in the wild, they do eat every day.

...but feeding them every day definitely shortens their lives. I’ve done tons of research about it and it doesn’t really affects them to skip some meals, many actually recommend it.
This is false, as is most of the information found when doing "research" on tortoises. Almost all of the care info you find will be wrong too.
As per the carrots I don’t do it a lot or in quantity and I am aware they are sugary, although I don’t feed him anything else with decent amounts of carotenoids (red/yellow pigments) that are essential for vision health, so a few times a month he gets a 1/4-1/2 a baby carrot or 2 tiny cubes of squash. It is definitely not enough to make him bad.
Almost every thing tortoises eat is high in vitamin A. There is no need to feed carrots, and the sugar negatively affects their gut flora and fauna. Best to skip it in favor of other better food items.

Addressing your original question: Your tortoise doesn't look fat to me. However it needs a much larger enclosure, and outdoors would be better. 4x8 feet is a minimum. Small enclosures can make them fat. Cutting back the food for a grazing animal is not a good solution to this potential problem. Increasing the enclosure size and amount of exercise is a good solution.

The beak needs to be trimmed, and its not all that stressful.

Soil should never be used as a substrate. In your pics I see cypress mulch, which is a good substrate.

Here is the current and correct care info for your species:

Questions are welcome. :)
 

Cathie G

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Aug 9, 2018
Messages
15,041
Location (City and/or State)
Lancaster
Hi! I skipped feedings for a few reasons, but the main one is because I do not brumate him and in the wild they won’t eat every day year round. As a matter of fact they don’t eat anything for many months. I know the captive setting is not the same but feeding them every day definitely shortens their lives. I’ve done tons of research about it and it doesn’t really affects them to skip some meals, many actually recommend it.
As per the carrots I don’t do it a lot or in quantity and I am aware they are sugary, although I don’t feed him anything else with decent amounts of carotenoids (red/yellow pigments) that are essential for vision health, so a few times a month he gets a 1/4-1/2 a baby carrot or 2 tiny cubes of squash. It is definitely not enough to make him bad.
I am a firm believer in full feeding. What I do with my little Russian is put a handful (round or about his size) of salad out for my Tortoise every morning IF he eats all that and it's not bedtime yet, I keep putting out all he'll eat . If they are In the wild and hungry I would hope they could find some food when they're grazing and still hungry. They might not be able to though because mother nature isn't always nice like me..😉 of course most animals live longer in captivity.
 

Vpvarano

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
19
Location (City and/or State)
Boynton Beach, FL
Doesn't look fat to me either, but 2' x 4' seems pretty cramped. Is there any way you can get him a larger enclosure?
Unfortunately I can’t and I can’t have a pen outside because the landlord doesn’t allowed. But I do let him out in the yard as much as I can, sometimes is hard to do every day, but at least 2 or 3 times a week he spends a while walking and hanging out outside. The yard is huge and it goes on 3 sides of the house, I’m not sure how big is the area but a rough calculation would be around 1,500 square feet. He is used to it and he lets me know when he’s ready to go out, or if he’s having a lazy day a d doesn’t want to go anywhere.
Doesn't look fat to me either, but 2' x 4' seems pretty cramped. Is there any way you can get him a larger enclosure?
 

Vpvarano

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
19
Location (City and/or State)
Boynton Beach, FL
Its true that when they are buried beneath the snow and their body temp is in the 30s for brumation they don't eat for months at a time, but this is not the same as when temps are warm and they are up and active. Two totally different scenarios. Given the choice, when weather is favorable in the wild, they do eat every day.


This is false, as is most of the information found when doing "research" on tortoises. Almost all of the care info you find will be wrong too.

Almost every thing tortoises eat is high in vitamin A. There is no need to feed carrots, and the sugar negatively affects their gut flora and fauna. Best to skip it in favor of other better food items.

Addressing your original question: Your tortoise doesn't look fat to me. However it needs a much larger enclosure, and outdoors would be better. 4x8 feet is a minimum. Small enclosures can make them fat. Cutting back the food for a grazing animal is not a good solution to this potential problem. Increasing the enclosure size and amount of exercise is a good solution.

The beak needs to be trimmed, and its not all that stressful.

Soil should never be used as a substrate. In your pics I see cypress mulch, which is a good substrate.

Here is the current and correct care info for your species:

Questions are welcome. :)
Ok thanks for the advice, I won’t do more carrots, but what about squash? Is that ok? Around here I don’t find a lot variety of greenies that’s why I do spring mix and lettuce. I have find many diet suggestions but it is hard to find the stuff around here. I have tried growing but he’s a little weird and do not pay attention to the plants I grow for him. I’ve grow a few desert tortoise mixes that bring plantains, dandelions, etc, and nop, he doesn’t even go close.
 

Cathie G

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Aug 9, 2018
Messages
15,041
Location (City and/or State)
Lancaster
Ok thanks for the advice, I won’t do more carrots, but what about squash? Is that ok? Around here I don’t find a lot variety of greenies that’s why I do spring mix and lettuce. I have find many diet suggestions but it is hard to find the stuff around here. I have tried growing but he’s a little weird and do not pay attention to the plants I grow for him. I’ve grow a few desert tortoise mixes that bring plantains, dandelions, etc, and nop, he doesn’t even go close.
As long as the desert tortoise mixes are home grown like you would your own food, you could just harvest them. Wash it refrigerate it and use the leftovers yourself 🤗😊
 

Vpvarano

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
19
Location (City and/or State)
Boynton Beach, FL
Its true that when they are buried beneath the snow and their body temp is in the 30s for brumation they don't eat for months at a time, but this is not the same as when temps are warm and they are up and active. Two totally different scenarios. Given the choice, when weather is favorable in the wild, they do eat every day.


This is false, as is most of the information found when doing "research" on tortoises. Almost all of the care info you find will be wrong too.

Almost every thing tortoises eat is high in vitamin A. There is no need to feed carrots, and the sugar negatively affects their gut flora and fauna. Best to skip it in favor of other better food items.

Addressing your original question: Your tortoise doesn't look fat to me. However it needs a much larger enclosure, and outdoors would be better. 4x8 feet is a minimum. Small enclosures can make them fat. Cutting back the food for a grazing animal is not a good solution to this potential problem. Increasing the enclosure size and amount of exercise is a good solution.

The beak needs to be trimmed, and its not all that stressful.

Soil should never be used as a substrate. In your pics I see cypress mulch, which is a good substrate.

Here is the current and correct care info for your species:

Questions are welcome. :)
Oh! I do have another question! Since I soaked him today I remembered. Do they suppose to stay quiet while soaking? He normally is just trying to climb the walls of the container at all times while soaking, he rest sometimes but mostly keeps trying to get out. Is that normal?
 
Top