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Little CDT not eating

Discussion in 'North American Tortoises (genus Gopherus)' started by Borgijo, Aug 9, 2018.

  1. Borgijo

    Borgijo Member

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    So a little history first. I got 4 CDT babies all about 10 mos old that I’m fostering about 2 weeks ago. 2 of the 4 have pretty soft shells, of those 2, one eats really well and moves in and out of the heat well as well as drinks and poops good. The other is sluggish, seriously puffy eyes, rarely eats and sleeps under the heat lamp all the time. The other two that have harder shells, of the two, I have one that is great! He’s strong no puffy eyes, eats, drinks and poops like he is supposed to & energetic. The other one I’m worried about most of the four right now because although he has a firmer shell he is sluggish, puffy in his eyes and upper legs (kind of like he’s got more than just worms) sleeps all day/night in one spot and hasn’t eaten in 3 days. He doesn’t even seem to drink when I soak them every other day he just sits there until I take them out. I did get a small poop from him later yesterday after he soaked but that’s it. I’m thinking he is going to have to go in, but should I try carrot baby food soaks first? How long for a baby to go without food? Oh one more thing. The calcium supplement I’m giving they seem to be peeing out
  2. Tom

    Tom The Dog Trainer 5 Year Member

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    You have CA desert tortoises in Georgia? I want to make sure I have this right before proceeding.
  3. Borgijo

    Borgijo Member

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    Chula Vista, Ca
  4. wellington

    wellington Well-Known Member Moderator 5 Year Member

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    It wouldn't hurt to try the baby food and I would add piedialyte also . I would also soak daily
  5. Millerlite

    Millerlite Well-Known Member 5 Year Member

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    make sure to soak them. What the set up like? I have a young maybe 9 or 10 month old. He lives outside 24/7 he is doing great growing like a weed. Very active and eats anything I throw down. Puffy eyes is not a good sign, I would separate that one and do warm soaks. Could be a vit. Dif. or dehydration.

    Kyle
  6. Tom

    Tom The Dog Trainer 5 Year Member

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    Thank you for changing that.

    Most people start these hatchling all wrong. Most of them don't make it to 10 months.

    They need to be mostly indoors, and they need daily soaks. Outside for and hour a few days a week is okay, but they should be soaked every day. They should also be on damp substrate with a humid hide.

    Our next step is to see photos of your indoor enclosure. How long are they outdoors? Do you have indoor UV? What type of bulb?

    Care for DTs is the same as russians. Check these out and see what might be different in your enclosure or routine:
    https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/
    https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
  7. Yvonne G

    Yvonne G Old Timer TFO Admin 10 Year Member! Platinum Supporter

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    The most common reason for a baby tortoise to not eat is that he isn't warm enough, but because your baby has a soft shell, I think the lack of calcium/UVB is more than likely the culprit. Metabolic Bone Disease is painful. When a baby is in pain, he doesn't eat.

    In order for calcium to do the job it is intended to do inside the body, it needs UVB, either from the sun or from a GOOD UVB light.. And UVB lights lose their ability to give off UVB after a period of time, so if your light is older, it probably isn't providing the UVB anymore.

    It would be beneficial to all these babies to be outside during the middle of the day to soak up some sun. I house baby CDT in a portable enclosure, and just move the whole enclosure in and out daily. Just be sure to provide plenty of shade so they don't cook.
  8. Borgijo

    Borgijo Member

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    I had the megaray MVL my solar meter was saying that they were getting 3.1 uvb which in the morning when I would take them outside it would read a 4. I don’t do to much in the afternoon because it has been getting a little warm here. My humidity inside my enclosed chamber is only 70% I haven’t had luck getting it higher in my smaller enclosure 2x6.5’. I have recently upgraded my larger enclosure to the Arcadia dual 12% & 14% uvb bulbs and 6500 full spectrum bulbs, and flood lights for heat per Toms assistance to get away from the MVL. They will switch back over to the large enclosure once I’ve finished installing them (hopefully by this weekend). My temps are 85-91. Prior to me getting them they were kept at 80 and I’m not sure of the humidity, with no heat lamp just a uvb lamp. I give repticalcium and miner-all switching between the two but they seem to be peeing it out. I feed them a mixture of spring greens, dandelion, kale, hibiscus, wheat grass, grape and mulberry leaves mixed together & every other day they get mazuri soaked in cactus pear juice. He did pass today.[/QUOTE]
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 12, 2018 at 8:16 PM
  9. Yvonne G

    Yvonne G Old Timer TFO Admin 10 Year Member! Platinum Supporter

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    Aw, darn it. I'm so very sorry.
  10. ascott

    ascott Well-Known Member 5 Year Member

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    You should separate the tortoise into their own enclosures. This is a super sensitive species and do not do well in groups.....period. I would allow some outdoor natural sun in a spot that allows for hiding but also allow for some space to move in and out of the natural sun.
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