Questions?

Pamelav72

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So first off Hi, new here I was reading the article that @Tom wrote about the care of Harmanni tortoise as I have became a tortoise owner recently. I’m confused about 2 things 1. Sphagnum moss man I hope I spelled that right to lazy to check any way Tom says not to use it but I read to use it under their hide. Confusing but going by Tom direction I will not us it just confusing to read you can us it. Moving on 2. Alfalfa I read it is not good for tortoise but the person @Tom says you can buy good leaves and weed in the mix I see him selling it has alfalfa in it, So I’m confused there cause I don’t want to give my Hermanni Tortoise something he shouldn’t have by the way his name Russell Wilson Ex Quartback Seattle Seahawks my husband team and former team Steelers, Denver was a practice team😉 Thank you Pam
P.S. how do we get rid of that annoying ad that is right where your trying to read the post !!!!!
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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Hello!
1. Some tortoises eat sphagnum moss and when consumed in large amounts this can result in serious impaction. It's not very common but a few cases were reported on the forum. Because we can achieve required humidity levels in a "closed chamber" enclosure with damp substrate, using moss is redundant and not recommended because of potential risk.

2. Alfalfa is not recommended because of high protein contents but it isn't toxic per se. High protein foods can result in formation of bladder stones when tortoise is not hydrated well enough. With regular soaks, damp substrate and always available fresh water we keep good hydration levels for a tortoise and feeding alfalfa in moderation doesn't do any harm. Should be noted that some other plants (like clover) also have high protein contents but make a large part of seasonal natural diet for some Testudo species (like Greek tortoises).

3. You can report an obtrusive ad in Site Feedback section (site owner, Josh, will take care of it).
 

NamedNut

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I will clear up a lot of confusion that you will run into as you google about care for Russell Wilson. Don’t Google, instead come here with all of your questions, use the search function and snoop around old posts for hours!

Tom and many many others are what I would consider experts that have extensive collections, successful results, etc. you can not go wrong here… seriously… as arrogant as that sounds.

Cheers.
 

Pamelav72

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Hello!
1. Some tortoises eat sphagnum moss and when consumed in large amounts this can result in serious impaction. It's not very common but a few cases were reported on the forum. Because we can achieve required humidity levels in a "closed chamber" enclosure with damp substrate, using moss is redundant and not recommended because of potential risk.

2. Alfalfa is not recommended because of high protein contents but it isn't toxic per se. High protein foods can result in formation of bladder stones when tortoise is not hydrated well enough. With regular soaks, damp substrate and always available fresh water we keep good hydration levels for a tortoise and feeding alfalfa in moderation doesn't do any harm. Should be noted that some other plants (like clover) also have high protein contents but make a large part of seasonal natural diet for some Testudo species (like Greek tortoises).

3. You can report an obtrusive ad in Site Feedback section (site owner, Josh, will take care of it).
See that is were I got confused there is a lady on her who did a care sheet and has the opposite of what @Tom says not to use or do that got me confused like @Tom suggested not using MVB but this lady says to use them he says not to use sphagnum moss she said to use it. Here is were I kinda side with @Tom he has 30 yrs experience she has 17yrs he did side by side experiment but you see were it gets confusing her care sheet is total for this stuff and his is not
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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Yes, I understand the confusion. And it's totally fine if you ask about something that seems contradictory.

MVB lamps were very popular several years ago. However, they are not recommended anymore, not only for tortoises but for other reptiles as well. T5 tube for UVB and incandescent basking bulb are current standard (if you don't mind some technical details you can read more here: https://tomaskas.co.uk/mercury-vapour-lamps-for-animals/)
 

Pamelav72

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Yes, I understand the confusion. And it's totally fine if you ask about something that seems contradictory.

MVB lamps were very popular several years ago. However, they are not recommended anymore, not only for tortoises but for other reptiles as well. T5 tube for UVB and incandescent basking bulb are current standard (if you don't mind some technical details you can read more here: https://tomaskas.co.uk/mercury-vapour-lamps-for-animals/)
I myself never like MVB I use on all my reptiles Arcadia uvb lights I also have a solar meter 6.5 reader and a temp gun when you own bearded dragons it’s a must I just want a healthy happy little one since I have always wanted a tortoise now I can comfortably give a tortoise a good life. I also have Arcadia heat lamps and deep he’s projectors for the beardies but read not to use halogen or deepest projectors I really don’t like Che I have seen fires start from those from poorly manufactured but if it is highly recommended I will do one. My home stays a nice 70° and Russ which I found out could be a girl the reading in the enclosure is 90% humidity and 80 middle 75 cool side hot side is running between 95 to 102. I’m using coco coir with orchard bark and clay ceramic bowls 3, water and one for muzuri pellets and horse Timothy hay pellets and the other dish main food bowl I use calcium 2x a week and vitamins 1x a week soaking every morning for 20 minutes
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

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Great answers above, a lot has changed over time so you do have to check post dates or double check by asking questions, glad you did and hope the answers helped!🐢💚
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

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Feel free to check out the bottom of this thread for visuals on the bulb recommendations

This one has a bunch of closed chamber ideas if you ever need any

This one explains a little bit about Mbv and not using moss
 

Tom

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See that is were I got confused there is a lady on her who did a care sheet and has the opposite of what @Tom says not to use or do that got me confused like @Tom suggested not using MVB but this lady says to use them he says not to use sphagnum moss she said to use it. Here is were I kinda side with @Tom he has 30 yrs experience she has 17yrs he did side by side experiment but you see were it gets confusing her care sheet is total for this stuff and his is not
Who re we talking about that said those things and when? I also used to recommend MVBs and sphagnum moss back in the old days before I realized the problems they cause and figured out better, safer ways to do things.
 

Pamelav72

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Who re we talking about that said those things and when? I also used to recommend MVBs and sphagnum moss back in the old days before I realized the problems they cause and figured out better, safer ways to do things.
All look for the care sheet I read
 

Pamelav72

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Who re we talking about that said those things and when? I also used to recommend MVBs and sphagnum moss back in the old days before I realized the problems they cause and figured out better, safer ways to do things.
Found it this one got me confused cause it is different then your care
 

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Tom

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Found it this one got me confused cause it is different then your care
It shows the dates on all posts. That one was from January of 2011. We have learned much over the last 14+ years.

Whenever you find contradictory info, please feel free to ask for clarification. There is usually an easy explanation.
 

Pamelav72

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I myself never like MVB I use on all my reptiles Arcadia uvb lights I also have a solar meter 6.5 reader and a temp gun when you own bearded dragons it’s a must I just want a healthy happy little one since I have always wanted a tortoise now I can comfortably give a tortoise a good life. I also have Arcadia heat lamps and deep he’s projectors for the beardies but read not to use halogen or deepest projectors I really don’t like Che I have seen fires start from those from poorly manufactured but if it is highly recommended I will do one. My home stays a nice 70° and Russ which I found out could be a girl the reading in the enclosure is 90% humidity and 80 middle 75 cool side hot side is running between 95 to 102. I’m using coco coir with orchard bark and clay ceramic bowls 3, water and one for muzuri pellets and horse Timothy hay pellets and the other dish main food bowl I use calcium 2x a week and vitamins 1x a week soaking every morning for 20 minutes
If this help me any this is Russell set up I hope everything is good I am having a problem of now walking back and forth on the glass is he bored or being a pain in the butt. My humanity is in the high 99% is that to high of humidity for him?
 

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Pamelav72

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It shows the dates on all posts. That one was from January of 2011. We have learned much over the last 14+ years.

Whenever you find contradictory info, please feel free to ask for clarification. There is usually an easy explanation.
This is my set up for Russell Wilson so I hope it’s good for him.
 

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Alex and the Redfoot

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If this help me any this is Russell set up I hope everything is good I am having a problem of now walking back and forth on the glass is he bored or being a pain in the butt. My humanity is in the high 99% is that to high of humidity for him?
99% is a bit too much. Not dangerous if temperatures are high enough, just outside the comfort zone. A gradient of 60-85% across the enclosure is the sweet spot (naturally happens between basking area and cold end).

Pacing along the glass is a sign that environment is uncomfortable or the enclosure is small (boring). My tortoise climbs the glass when she wants to go outdoors (luckily, weather permits).

You can rearrange things a bit to make enclosure more interesting: I would remove the second food dish and place a log hide on its place, buried in substrate (so he walk on top of or under the log), also a flower pot in the corner is too open to be a hide (try to bury it in substrate too, so he can dig a little to get inside). Right now he can see the whole enclosure from any point - breaking line of sight with hills, logs, low fences and plants helps to make small enclosures interesting.

Is it a 120 gallon (4x2x2) tank? What UV index is near substrate?
 

Pamelav72

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99% is a bit too much. Not dangerous if temperatures are high enough, just outside the comfort zone. A gradient of 60-85% across the enclosure is the sweet spot (naturally happens between basking area and cold end).

Pacing along the glass is a sign that environment is uncomfortable or the enclosure is small (boring). My tortoise climbs the glass when she wants to go outdoors (luckily, weather permits).

You can rearrange things a bit to make enclosure more interesting: I would remove the second food dish and place a log hide on its place, buried in substrate (so he walk on top of or under the log), also a flower pot in the corner is too open to be a hide (try to bury it in substrate too, so he can dig a little to get inside). Right now he can see the whole enclosure from any point - breaking line of sight with hills, logs, low fences and plants helps to make small enclosures interesting.

Is it a 120 gallon (4x2x2) tank? What UV index is near substrate?
 

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Tom

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This is my set up for Russell Wilson so I hope it’s good for him.
Your humidity gauge near the hanging lamp fixture is at 62% and 92% over on the cool side on the substrate. I'll bet humidity is fine in there. Set the gauge up on top of the white hide box for a while and se what it does. Its always higher when the gauge is resting on the substrate.

Your hand is toward the back of the cage with your Solarmeter. Is that directly under the UV tube? If yes, that level is a little low, and I would lower the florescent fixture a couple of inches, or build up the substrate a couple of inches under the bulb.
 

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