Hello everyone, first post here so my apologies if this has been covered. I have a young 9 month old Redfoot, I bought him when he was around 5 months. His plastron has always had this weird texture and color, his terrarium is always between 75-90 in his basking area. Humidity is between 70-85, I have him on coco fiber as well, he does love to soak in his water as well. Any advice would be amazing, thank you!
Redfoot plastron
- Thread starter CodyG
- Start date
I believe it may be a fungus. Be sure the coconut coir on top is not wet. Best is to put orchid or fir bark on top of the coir. Then when humidity needs to be bumped up, you pour warm water into the corners, dampening the coir but not the bark.
Use some OTC athletes foot cream on the shell after soak daily rubbing it in.
Use some OTC athletes foot cream on the shell after soak daily rubbing it in.
Awesome, thank you so much for the reply. It looked like that since I first got it, so I overlooked it. I'll definitely get on that, his behavior is great and he eats very well still.
It may just be what it is. If the cream doesn't change anything after about a week, then it might be the scaring from a previous shell rot or fungus from before you got him. The cream won't hurt either way, so give it a try. If you see improvements after about a week, then keep using it.
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
I believe this was @ZEROPILOT ’s reply that he’d put into the wrong thread I just read!
It's fungus.
I can't tell if it's new or old and healing. But put some Athletes foot cream on there and keep him dryer for a few days to a week.
Usually one application kills the fungus. But the healing takes months.
BTW the super cheap cream is just as effective as the high dollar stuff. I get mine at DOLLAR GENERAL.
Your temperature needs to be between 80 and 88. If you want it perfect, in my opinion it is 82 to 84 degrees.
70 will cause issues if it's allowed to go on for an extended period.
It's fungus.
I can't tell if it's new or old and healing. But put some Athletes foot cream on there and keep him dryer for a few days to a week.
Usually one application kills the fungus. But the healing takes months.
BTW the super cheap cream is just as effective as the high dollar stuff. I get mine at DOLLAR GENERAL.
Your temperature needs to be between 80 and 88. If you want it perfect, in my opinion it is 82 to 84 degrees.
70 will cause issues if it's allowed to go on for an extended period.
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
I don’t suppose you’d mind posting a photo of your full set up btw? It’s super helpful to know how new members are keeping their tortoise, I particularly like looking at red foot set ups, but as you can probably tell by my user name, I’m biased lol😅
What kind of lighting are you using? What’s your uv situation?
What size set up do you have?
How’s their diet?
Red foot’s don’t necessarily need a ‘basking area’ they aren’t typically a basking species coming from the forest floor(some do though, it depends on the individual) it’s better to have an overall ambient temperature range of 80-86(82-84 being optimal)temps shouldn’t go below 80 for one as young as yours both night&day.
Personally we keep our red foot on orchid bark, we focus on the under layer of the substrate being nice and damp to create the humidity, then the top layer being dry, though to stop that top layer getting too dry and dusty, we mix the substrate now n then, which also helps gives a humidity boost without extra water🙂to maintain our humidity we simply pour some luke warm water into the corners of the substrate, not loads! Just enough to dampen the whole under layer. You can keep an eye on your monitors&substrate to do the pours as and when needed, which in a good closed chamber set up, you shouldn’t have to do loads😊if you think it’s dropping I’m sure a mist here and there won’t hurt, the trouble is if you’re used to spraying and keeping that top layer constantly wet, it may have contributed towards the issue, perhaps having the top layer dryer will help in your case🙂
What kind of lighting are you using? What’s your uv situation?
What size set up do you have?
How’s their diet?
Red foot’s don’t necessarily need a ‘basking area’ they aren’t typically a basking species coming from the forest floor(some do though, it depends on the individual) it’s better to have an overall ambient temperature range of 80-86(82-84 being optimal)temps shouldn’t go below 80 for one as young as yours both night&day.
Personally we keep our red foot on orchid bark, we focus on the under layer of the substrate being nice and damp to create the humidity, then the top layer being dry, though to stop that top layer getting too dry and dusty, we mix the substrate now n then, which also helps gives a humidity boost without extra water🙂to maintain our humidity we simply pour some luke warm water into the corners of the substrate, not loads! Just enough to dampen the whole under layer. You can keep an eye on your monitors&substrate to do the pours as and when needed, which in a good closed chamber set up, you shouldn’t have to do loads😊if you think it’s dropping I’m sure a mist here and there won’t hurt, the trouble is if you’re used to spraying and keeping that top layer constantly wet, it may have contributed towards the issue, perhaps having the top layer dryer will help in your case🙂
When I get home from work I'll send some pictures of the setup, it's a 36x18 (40G) a little large for him now but my fogger keeps humidity well. I don't spray very often but I will refrain for now on to
When I get home from work I'll include photos of the enclosure and give some details to the setup
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Thank you
I'll adjust and remove his basking lamp, usually at night with it off and CHE on, he stays in the low 80s, I have a 2nd CHE unused . New mulch to layer on top and antifungal ready for pickup when I get home. Thank you everyone again for the advice, will keep yall updated!When I get home from work I'll send some pictures of the setup, it's a 36x18 (40G) a little large for him now but my fogger keeps humidity well. I don't spray very often but I will refrain for now on to
When I get home from work I'll include photos of the enclosure and give some details to the setup
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
That’s great thanks, I’m thinking 40g is actually too small for the size your guy is now from the photo of them and their age, but it’ll be better if I can get a photo of the tortoise in the enclosure to gauge that better. Maybe other members can answer to that too. I’ve never used a glass tank.When I get home from work I'll send some pictures of the setup, it's a 36x18 (40G) a little large for him now but my fogger keeps humidity well. I don't spray very often but I will refrain for now on to
When I get home from work I'll include photos of the enclosure and give some details to the setup
We can go over some great cost effective ways people build appropriate set ups for them though as you’ll need to upgrade either way at some point, they require hardly any diy skills and provide the tortoise with the necessary amount of space🙂the enclosures they often sell in stores are never enough and they’ll always recommend far too small a set up to make a sale. But one step at a time of course😊
I’ve read it’s best to generally avoid misters and foggers because they can cause respiratory issues, how long does it run for? I’m wondering if it’s keeping things just a little too on the wet side.
Usually in a closed chamber set up, doing the pours I mentioned into the corners of the orchid bark is enough to keep humidity up, maybe the odd top up spray. Does yours have an open top hence you’re using the fogger or?
It might be worth considering having the two CHEs running 27/4(both on a thermostat of course)spread equal distance from one another to distribute the heat more evenly, hopefully achieving a nice 82-84 ambient, though up to 86 is ok too. Then having some led lighting on a 12hr timer🙂
That’s one way to do it but it’s up to you, some people use a floodlight to create a basking spot for them, if your guy enjoys it then by all means stick with that route😊if you keep it I’d probably adjust it just so it preferably doesn’t go to 90, might be a bit too warm an area for him if he doesn’t appear to spend much time under it.
I’m sure the antifungal will do the trick and they’ll be looking better in no time, all the best, keep us in the loop😁
While I have some time to reply. I'll setup the second CHE to get the ambient temps up, he does have a glass enclosure with a mesh top, I keep plastic wrap over half of it to keep the humidity in with some ventilation of course. I have a 36inch 5.0 UV tropical bulb installed inside the tank using wire tied to the mesh so he has full coverage. The fogger runs off a sensor which will kick it on if humidity drops to low, it's fully adjustable. Thank you for the enclosure size advice, originally the breeder I got him from said 40 would be too large but we went with it anyway. I get home in about 3 hours so I'll post photos soon.
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
Okie doke, no problem🙂yeah unfortunately a glass tank isn’t the best set up option, breeders are notorious for giving all the wrong care information and enclosure sizes despite how convincing they sound😣stick around here and we’ll get you on the best track😊
When your humidity is dropping, the fogger is both making the air very wet which could cause respiratory issues down the line, and not getting the bottom layer at all, if the bottom layer is getting too dry, coir can become dusty, as you’re using the coir for now, if you start doing the pours, make sure it’s not too much to make it muddy, best way to make sure is to pack it down nice and firmly(always do that in any case) then you can put your mulch on top🙂
I think once you have a more appropriate set up that’s a closed chamber instead of a mesh top, you’ll see why you don’t need the fogger, I think it’s probably contributed to the issue you’re currently having, just a hunch.
If you could add a photo of the uv packaging you have too when you’re back that’d be great 😊
I am not an expert by anybodies idea...but that sounds too small to me. Also that plastron looks like old scaring to me. Have you tried to pick at it? What makes you think it's active fungus as opposed to old scars? You need to make humidity with a dry top layer to avoid being too damp.
I keep 1 lonely little girl RF named Layla in a greenhouse
this is 6 feet long a two and a half feet across...
I have a CHE at each end, it pretty much stays 90% humidity w/85 degrees....she also has an outdoor enclosure
I keep 1 lonely little girl RF named Layla in a greenhouse
this is 6 feet long a two and a half feet across...
I have a CHE at each end, it pretty much stays 90% humidity w/85 degrees....she also has an outdoor enclosure
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
Op just bear in mind, maggie has an outdoor enclosure for her red foot too.
If you don’t and are going to be keeping your tortoise indoors year round(which you will need to do up to the age of 3 anyway) you will need a larger set up than a 6x2, just something to bare in mind🙂
But the greenhouse style set up is very effective and what I wanted to go over further with you😊
I personally think that infection looks very much active, so I think treating couldn’t hurt either way, especially since you’ve said the plastron has been like that since you got them.
COmtnLady
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the Forum! This place has the best most accurate info on keep tortoises and helping them thrive.
Red Foots need humidity not sprayers or foggers. Those make it too moist, not humid. Best is a thick layer of coco coir that is damp, and an over-layer layer of orchid or fir bark that is NOT damp. As everyone else has said, keep that surface as dry as possible and only pour water into the corners. It will flow through below and evaporate up through. Red Foots need humidity but also need to not be stuck without a dry surface to be on. The only time I had problems with fungus was when I was keeping the surface wet. Its ok if your tortoise sits in the flat water dish at its own choice, just don't force it to deal with the whole habitat being wet.
The greenhouse cover you have is great! And your temps are good.
(She's starting to pyramid, (see how, in the picture of her facing the camera, the shell isn't rounded/smooth) its not bad , but it would be good to check how hot it is under the CHEs and such. If its too hot it bakes/desiccates the shell surface. It can be remedied by raising the heat source to alter the temp hitting the shell. )
We're al glad you found the Forum!
Red Foots need humidity not sprayers or foggers. Those make it too moist, not humid. Best is a thick layer of coco coir that is damp, and an over-layer layer of orchid or fir bark that is NOT damp. As everyone else has said, keep that surface as dry as possible and only pour water into the corners. It will flow through below and evaporate up through. Red Foots need humidity but also need to not be stuck without a dry surface to be on. The only time I had problems with fungus was when I was keeping the surface wet. Its ok if your tortoise sits in the flat water dish at its own choice, just don't force it to deal with the whole habitat being wet.
The greenhouse cover you have is great! And your temps are good.
(She's starting to pyramid, (see how, in the picture of her facing the camera, the shell isn't rounded/smooth) its not bad , but it would be good to check how hot it is under the CHEs and such. If its too hot it bakes/desiccates the shell surface. It can be remedied by raising the heat source to alter the temp hitting the shell. )
We're al glad you found the Forum!
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Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
The photos of the greenhouse set up aren’t ops but we’re hopefully going to talk them through getting one set up🙂
Hey...are you sure you are not responding to MY greenhouse set up??? Layla is just 3 years old and I have had her for about a year. It is 6'x2', but I have an enclosure outside for her as well. The greenhouse is in the reptile room in my house, and depending on the weather in the great Pacific Northwest I walk Layla outside, I also have 6 box turtles in the house that I walk out daily to the box turtle pond, and 3 box turtles in the tort shed that I walk out to the pond daily. I walk a lot..lol
Here's a different angle from the same photo series...
I have worked very hard to make Layla's inside enclosure as close to perfect as possible for me, I agree to slight pyramiding as I personally keep and have kept badly pyramided Sulcata and am not gonna pretend I don't see some in Layla. But I have a system with her and believe what you see came with the tort a year ago. Layla is only the second RF I have kept, so I am not gonna pretend I am any kind of an expert with chelonia at large...so with all due respect and becuz I wanna know... what do you see in that op's plastron that I don't see?
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Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
She did get mixed up thinking your set up was ops yes but dw I told her😊
As for the infection, if you zoom in, you can see where it’s very much peeling meaning it’s very much active, this 100% needs treating, I’ve circled some areas to show you how you can tell this is an active infection but honestly the whole plastron is in dire need of attention, I can see near their cloaca the layers it’s gone through😕this will heal over in time but there will indeed be scaring
