RF barely eats

[Bamb00sworld]

Hello! My 2 year old RF, age according to seller, is barely eating. She was adopted on 11/29/25. The one thing I can get her to eat occasionally is bananas. A few times she's eaten some turnip bc it was mashed up with the bananas. Even still she eats maybe every 2-3 days, but so far only banana. I tried Mazuri, flower toppers, turnip green, spring mix(no spinach), Romain lettuce, papaya, boiled egg, and 1 other commercial dried food. The dried food I do soak so that it is mashed. I also tried the dried food soften but left whole. She is soaked daily for 30 minutes max.

Reading through some post, it seems temperature can be a factor. Currently I have the ZooMed tropical kit, but based on my readings in this forum, I should get a linear light instead. I've also purchased a CHE for night time that will be installed this weekend. I'm still working on getting her temps steady for both day and night. I live in NC.

For now, her enclosure is a long tank, but her table was just delivered. This is a temporary setup until I can find a suitable vivarium. Yes it's costly to buy an enclosure in between getting a better one, but I want to do right by her. So whatever fixes I can put in place now, be it temporary or permanent, I'm going to do it. Also, I'm going to purchase the testudo seeds mentioned.

I'd welcome suggestions on 1) getting her to eat 2) vivarium sellers(I've messaged markw23, just waiting for reply) 3) confirmation that ZooMed tropical kit is not sufficient

PS
Please give me some grace. I'm doing everything I can to get her what she needs. I'm not rich, but I'll do what I gotta do. I plan to have both an indoor and outdoor enclosure for her, I do have the acreage for an outdoor enclosure.

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

@Littleredfootbigredheart and @Alex and the Redfoot should be able to help you.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Hello! My 2 year old RF, age according to seller, is barely eating. She was adopted on 11/29/25. The one thing I can get her to eat occasionally is bananas. A few times she's eaten some turnip bc it was mashed up with the bananas. Even still she eats maybe every 2-3 days, but so far only banana. I tried Mazuri, flower toppers, turnip green, spring mix(no spinach), Romain lettuce, papaya, boiled egg, and 1 other commercial dried food. The dried food I do soak so that it is mashed. I also tried the dried food soften but left whole. She is soaked daily for 30 minutes max.

Reading through some post, it seems temperature can be a factor. Currently I have the ZooMed tropical kit, but based on my readings in this forum, I should get a linear light instead. I've also purchased a CHE for night time that will be installed this weekend. I'm still working on getting her temps steady for both day and night. I live in NC.

For now, her enclosure is a long tank, but her table was just delivered. This is a temporary setup until I can find a suitable vivarium. Yes it's costly to buy an enclosure in between getting a better one, but I want to do right by her. So whatever fixes I can put in place now, be it temporary or permanent, I'm going to do it. Also, I'm going to purchase the testudo seeds mentioned.

I'd welcome suggestions on 1) getting her to eat 2) vivarium sellers(I've messaged markw23, just waiting for reply) 3) confirmation that ZooMed tropical kit is not sufficient

PS
Please give me some grace. I'm doing everything I can to get her what she needs. I'm not rich, but I'll do what I gotta do. I plan to have both an indoor and outdoor enclosure for her, I do have the acreage for an outdoor enclosure.

Hi! Aw bless her, they can be so stubborn by nature, it could just be she isn’t used to the foods you’re offering and it’ll take perseverance, it sounds to be like she has a bit of a sweet addiction, bananas are essentially candy to them lol, as harsh as it is you may have to stop giving it to her and eventually she’ll realise she has no choice but to eat what you’re offering as to not go hungry, I know it’s kinda hard cause they’re classic manipulators lol, but it’ll be for her own good

Can I ask what your temps are like currently? Overall day temps and night temps? I do suggest ceramic heating running 24/7 to create a stable temperature range of 80-86(82-84 being the sweet spot) with led ambient lighting for your day& night cycle, and your t5 uvb on a separate 4hr timer. Red foots don’t technically need a basking bulb, they’re much more desiccating on their dark shells and there’s no need for a night drop with these guys.

I will say you’ll unfortunately struggle with your humidity in her temporary set up, but obviously temps are most important anyway and you’ve already got plans for a more appropriate enclosure.

With a little tough love and some temperature tweaks I’m sure she’ll eventually start trying new things. This article is a good read

Introducing a Healthier Diet

Introducing a Healthier Diet

www.thetortoisetable.org.uk

In terms of other set up options there’s another company you could look into called zen habitats, I know they make pvc vivs too, they’re mesh tops, but they sell humidity panels to put on top upon request. Here’s the website:

Reptile Enclosures - Habitats for Lizards and Snakes | Zen Habitats

Zen Habitats reptile enclosures are designed to provide a healthy and happy environment for your reptiles, or small animals, while looking great in your home. Free Shipping!

www.zenhabitats.com

I believe a place called toad ranch make pvc vivs too, but again you may need to request a cover for the mesh tops

I’m seeing compact/coil uvb coming up with the zoo med tropical kit on my uk listings, not sure if that’s what you have? If so I’d definitely upgrade, hopefully this link below will give you an idea if you’ve not seen it yet

This housing thread covers correct equipment(uvb, heating bulbs, lighting etc), correct levels, importance of a closed chamber for red foots(only way to maintain the humidity you need indoors), appropriately maintaining the humidity(they are prone to shell rot so this is important! No misters or humidifiers), safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, a diet list and a really handy diet link to check out! If going with a greenhouse, the lower the ceiling height, whilst still allowing for recommended bulb height, the better, but obviously the vivs are way more efficient!

Young red foot/ cherryhead set up

Hello there! In this thread I’m going to include some information on an effective example of a starter enclosure for a red foot/cherry head😊 Care advice for these guys is painfully behind, fb pages, YouTube, pet stores, they’re all repeating the same outdated advice, this forum is made of...

tortoiseforum.org

Hope this helps

 

[EppsDynasty]

At 2 your temp needs to be exact, no excuses. Any variation will cause stress and put the tort in a mental state of fear. Without knowing they are ok they start to do weird things. You need exact temps and consistency to bring her out of this. Please post daily updates on feeding behaviors and temp checks so we can help get a handle on this. If needed you can hand feed Mazuri Original 5M21 ... but not yet. We would need a better understanding of what exactly is happening everyday. If you find yourself in a state of fear and need immediate attention our number is (760)499-4723 do not hesitate to call. I do want to point out though this place can and will help you help her.

 

[Bamb00sworld]

Hi! Aw bless her, they can be so stubborn by nature, it could just be she isn’t used to the foods you’re offering and it’ll take perseverance, it sounds to be like she has a bit of a sweet addiction, bananas are essentially candy to them lol, as harsh as it is you may have to stop giving it to her and eventually she’ll realise she has no choice but to eat what you’re offering as to not go hungry, I know it’s kinda hard cause they’re classic manipulators lol, but it’ll be for her own good

Can I ask what your temps are like currently? Overall day temps and night temps? I do suggest ceramic heating running 24/7 to create a stable temperature range of 80-86(82-84 being the sweet spot) with led ambient lighting for your day& night cycle, and your t5 uvb on a separate 4hr timer. Red foots don’t technically need a basking bulb, they’re much more desiccating on their dark shells and there’s no need for a night drop with these guys.

I will say you’ll unfortunately struggle with your humidity in her temporary set up, but obviously temps are most important anyway and you’ve already got plans for a more appropriate enclosure.

With a little tough love and some temperature tweaks I’m sure she’ll eventually start trying new things. This article is a good read

Introducing a Healthier Diet

Introducing a Healthier Diet

www.thetortoisetable.org.uk

In terms of other set up options there’s another company you could look into called zen habitats, I know they make pvc vivs too, they’re mesh tops, but they sell humidity panels to put on top upon request. Here’s the website:

Reptile Enclosures - Habitats for Lizards and Snakes | Zen Habitats

Zen Habitats reptile enclosures are designed to provide a healthy and happy environment for your reptiles, or small animals, while looking great in your home. Free Shipping!

www.zenhabitats.com

I believe a place called toad ranch make pvc vivs too, but again you may need to request a cover for the mesh tops

I’m seeing compact/coil uvb coming up with the zoo med tropical kit on my uk listings, not sure if that’s what you have? If so I’d definitely upgrade, hopefully this link below will give you an idea if you’ve not seen it yet

This housing thread covers correct equipment(uvb, heating bulbs, lighting etc), correct levels, importance of a closed chamber for red foots(only way to maintain the humidity you need indoors), appropriately maintaining the humidity(they are prone to shell rot so this is important! No misters or humidifiers), safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, a diet list and a really handy diet link to check out! If going with a greenhouse, the lower the ceiling height, whilst still allowing for recommended bulb height, the better, but obviously the vivs are way more efficient!

Young red foot/ cherryhead set up

Hello there! In this thread I’m going to include some information on an effective example of a starter enclosure for a red foot/cherry head😊 Care advice for these guys is painfully behind, fb pages, YouTube, pet stores, they’re all repeating the same outdated advice, this forum is made of...

tortoiseforum.org

Hope this helps

Thank you for this. I do see I need to return the ZooMed tropical kit, thankfully it's still within it's return window.

I briefly looked at the xen habitat site and I see 4x2x2 a lot, same on Amazon. I'm thinking of getting this size, thoughts? Although she may need an upgrade in about 2+ years.

Right now, temps are in below pic. . The CHE bulb arrived today so I'll connect it once I finish my work day.

I'd been so focused on warm and cold side, which I now know I need to correct.

Pic 100518 was the temp as of 10am est
Pic 180044 was the initial setup.
Pic 110924 is the current setup after seller recommended asking reptisoil to help with humidity
Pic 110956 is the upgraded enclosure I just got, table habitat. But hesitant to open and setup now.
Pic 111544 is ZooMed tropical kit I'm referring to.

Temp as of now since I turned light on at 10am is 74°

 

[Bamb00sworld]

At 2 your temp needs to be exact, no excuses. Any variation will cause stress and put the tort in a mental state of fear. Without knowing they are ok they start to do weird things. You need exact temps and consistency to bring her out of this. Please post daily updates on feeding behaviors and temp checks so we can help get a handle on this. If needed you can hand feed Mazuri Original 5M21 ... but not yet. We would need a better understanding of what exactly is happening everyday. If you find yourself in a state of fear and need immediate attention our number is (760)499-4723 do not hesitate to call. I do want to point out though this place can and will help you help her.

I'll be taking you up on this offer to call. Is there a preferred time window to call? I'm in NC. Can't call right now due to work.

 

[Bamb00sworld]

Forgot, here's the pic of the table enclosure on Amazon. I only got 1 table, but was thinking down the line could add 2nd table when she got bigger. Just would need to get a greenhouse over it. But again, having second thoughts of keeping it so I haven't opened it.

Amazon.com

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Thank you for this. I do see I need to return the ZooMed tropical kit, thankfully it's still within it's return window.

I briefly looked at the xen habitat site and I see 4x2x2 a lot, same on Amazon. I'm thinking of getting this size, thoughts? Although she may need an upgrade in about 2+ years.

Right now, temps are in below pic. . The CHE bulb arrived today so I'll connect it once I finish my work day.

I'd been so focused on warm and cold side, which I now know I need to correct.

Pic 100518 was the temp as of 10am est
Pic 180044 was the initial setup.
Pic 110924 is the current setup after seller recommended asking reptisoil to help with humidity
Pic 110956 is the upgraded enclosure I just got, table habitat. But hesitant to open and setup now.
Pic 111544 is ZooMed tropical kit I'm referring to.

Temp as of now since I turned light on at 10am is 74°

No problem, yes I’d definitely return that kit whenever you’re able, I believe zen does make custom sizes if you shoot them an email, 4x2 would be a bit small for the size she’s already getting, I’d shoot for at least 6x3 at this stage.
Thanks for the temp readings, I do think they could be the main contributor to the lack of appetite, I’m hoping once they’re amended she’ll perk back up

Forgot, here's the pic of the table enclosure on Amazon. I only got 1 table, but was thinking down the line could add 2nd table when she got bigger. Just would need to get a greenhouse over it. But again, having second thoughts of keeping it so I haven't opened it.

Amazon.com

You’re in a bit of a tricky position because unfortunately her current tank is much too small, but on the flip side this kind of set up just isn’t appropriate for this humid species, a cover will definitely help, but to be honest for the money those set ups cost, and the fact that the bases can sometimes deteriorate under the higher humidity with the cover, I’d probably personally opt to return it and hold out to put money towards something more suitable, that’s just me

 

[Bamb00sworld]

Thank you all again for the replies. I'll do a return on the habitat table and the stuff in got for it. I'm the meantime, I'm reach out to xen about getting a quote for 6x3.

Some good news, after her soak today, she did eat some Mazuri. It's the only thing I put on her plate today. I soften it but left whole pieces.

 

[EppsDynasty]

And the process begins ...

Some good news, after her soak today, she did eat some Mazuri. It's the only thing I put on her plate today. I soften it but left whole pieces.

Anytime you need us we are her but here you can get great info as well. You will get the results based info that will help. @Littleredfootbigredheart will help with others to guide you in almost real time.

 

[Bamb00sworld]

Thank you all again. I'm going to do a greenhouse over the current enclosure while I wait to hear back on the 2 quotes I requested. Also gonna have to change the CHE from 60w to 100w.

 

[COmtnLady]

Hello! My 2 year old RF, age according to seller, is barely eating. She was adopted on 11/29/25. The one thing I can get her to eat occasionally is bananas. A few times she's eaten some turnip bc it was mashed up with the bananas. Even still she eats maybe every 2-3 days, but so far only banana. I tried Mazuri, flower toppers, turnip green, spring mix(no spinach), Romain lettuce, papaya, boiled egg, and 1 other commercial dried food. The dried food I do soak so that it is mashed. I also tried the dried food soften but left whole. She is soaked daily for 30 minutes max.

Reading through some post, it seems temperature can be a factor. Currently I have the ZooMed tropical kit, but based on my readings in this forum, I should get a linear light instead. I've also purchased a CHE for night time that will be installed this weekend. I'm still working on getting her temps steady for both day and night. I live in NC.

For now, her enclosure is a long tank, but her table was just delivered. This is a temporary setup until I can find a suitable vivarium. Yes it's costly to buy an enclosure in between getting a better one, but I want to do right by her. So whatever fixes I can put in place now, be it temporary or permanent, I'm going to do it. Also, I'm going to purchase the testudo seeds mentioned.

I'd welcome suggestions on 1) getting her to eat 2) vivarium sellers(I've messaged markw23, just waiting for reply) 3) confirmation that ZooMed tropical kit is not sufficient

PS
Please give me some grace. I'm doing everything I can to get her what she needs. I'm not rich, but I'll do what I gotta do. I plan to have both an indoor and outdoor enclosure for her, I do have the acreage for an outdoor enclosure.

What exactly are your temps? What is your humidity? Do you use a closed chamber?

For the first two to three years of every species of tortoise it is best to have them in high humidity (84% or higher) and keep them warm (mid-80sF or higher). Since RedFoot are a tropical species, they do well to continue this for their entire lives.

 

[EppsDynasty]

What exactly are your temps? What is your humidity? Do you use a closed chamber?

For the first two to three years of every species of tortoise it is best to have them in high humidity (84% or higher) and keep them warm (mid-80sF or higher). Since RedFoot are a tropical species, they do well to continue this for their entire lives.

Very important info here.....has to be followed to a T.

 

[Bamb00sworld]

What exactly are your temps? What is your humidity? Do you use a closed chamber?

For the first two to three years of every species of tortoise it is best to have them in high humidity (84% or higher) and keep them warm (mid-80sF or higher). Since RedFoot are a tropical species, they do well to continue this for their entire lives.

Working on making changes. My temps have been in the 74 to low 80s range. While I wait for my 2 quotes, I'm going to diy a greenhouse to cover the current enclosure, which has a screen top.

Thank you for the info.

 

[COmtnLady]

Its important to get that chamber closed tight immediately. Otherwise its like trying to heat your own house with no roof on it.

Get the temps up a lot higher now! Since your tort is not eating or being active, bring the heat up into the low 90sF, and get the humidity up to at least mid-80%s, but higher is better, until it rallies. It is imperative for a tropical species to have warmth and humidity. Once your RF is eating ok and acting healthy again, then you can lower temps to mid-80sF and humidity to mid-80s%, but not before. RF evolved in the Equatorial regions where it never gets cold, and there is lots of rainfall. You have been keeping the poor critter in the equivalent of "Autumn Temperatures" without a coat, when its a solid "Summer" dweller. 'Dude's out there in shorts and flipflops when the weather is demanding wool and windbreakers.

Have you had a chance to read this yet?

Info For New People. Please Read This First.

Hello and welcome to tortoiseforum.org! We are all glad you are here! There is no other forum like this anywhere. We have tens of thousands of members from all over the world ranging from kids with their first tortoise to people who have been breeding and keeping high end tortoises since the...

tortoiseforum.org

And this is good background info on RFs. There are a couple details we've discovered better ways of keeping to use instead (eg: this article suggests sand as a possible substrate, but its been discovered that sand can cause intestinal impactions and should never be used for a captive tortoise), but 99% of this thread is important info for RF owners.

Redfoot Tortoise Care Sheet

NOTE: I do not keep redfoots, and I only have one tortoise in total. With this in mind, remember that I am in no way an expert, and this should not be used as cold hard proof of how to raise a redfoot. I used information from great keepers on this forum to put everything together. This care...

tortoiseforum.org

 

[COmtnLady]

Thank you all again for the replies. I'll do a return on the habitat table and the stuff in got for it. I'm the meantime, I'm reach out to xen about getting a quote for 6x3.

Some good news, after her soak today, she did eat some Mazuri. It's the only thing I put on her plate today. I soften it but left whole pieces.

Are you soaking the Mazuri so that it is soft all the way through? If not, try that. Also, did you get the correct kind for RedFoots? The formulas Mazuri makes are species specific. The one your tortoise eats has a Star Tortoise pictured on the front and the wording on the label says it is for tropical species and mentions Red Foots specifically. It is 5M21. (Many places only offer the Mazuri for Grassland Species, which it is entirely wrong for a RedFoot).

Could you please post a picture of your tank. It would make it easier for us to make suggestions if we could see exactly what you have to work with.

What I am envisioning from what you've said, is a glass aquarium with a screen top. I would immediately cover most of the screen top with foil, brining the foil to the edges of your lamps' shades/bells/reflectors (whichever you call them), and press it tightly around those edges. That way you are sealing the heat inside, but the bulbs can still direct their heat or light into the enclosure.

Do NOT worry about air transfer. Seal it up as tight as you can. Every time you open the top to feed or soak your tortoise there is a huge influx of fresh air, and your tortoise is not going to suffocate or run out of oxygen.



How often are you soaking Your tortoise and for how long?
Since it isn't feeling well, it needs soaking even more than usual. You'll need a steep-sided container (the smallish Rubbermaid-type totes work well, as do just about any water-tight container that the tort can't climb out of (buckets, small tanks, any similar item that it can't really see/climb out of and that holds water). The water needs to be within a degree or two of 95F for every minute your tortoise is in it. Some people use two containers and whenever the first one cools below 94F or so, switch to other container so that the tortoise doesn't get chilled, and re-do the first so its ready for when number two is too cold... just switching to the warmer one every little while. I use a sink and every time it drops below lukewarm I drain it, then put more warm water in.
The water should only be as deep as where the top and bottom shells come together, when the tortoise is standing comfortably on the bottom of the container. Because this is fairly shallow, it will cool down quickly so you MUST keep a close eye on the water temp. A short soak is half an hour long. Since yours is not feeling well, make the soak 45 minutes or an hour, keeping it warm the whole time. Soaking will help hydrate your tortoise, and because of heat transfer, warm it quickly. Most tortoises also poop when being soaked, which helps you know its eliminating in a healthy manner. Of course, that demands a water change, too. Soaking helps an ill tortoise immensely. Sometimes it is a good thing to do to put some strained carrot babyfood into the soak water to get a little nutrition into a tortoise that isn't eating - BUT - I would try warming yours up before doing that. It seems like yours has just been chronically cold for a while and warmth and humidity should correct the problem.





.

 

[EppsDynasty]

@COmtnLady ..... GREAT JOB!!!!!
This is true Love, to selflessly commit to spending so much time reading and responding for nothing but the well being of a tort someone else is caring for. Kudos to you

 

[Bamb00sworld]

Are you soaking the Mazuri so that it is soft all the way through? If not, try that. Also, did you get the correct kind for RedFoots? The formulas Mazuri makes are species specific. The one your tortoise eats has a Star Tortoise pictured on the front and the wording on the label says it is for tropical species and mentions Red Foots specifically. It is 5M21. (Many places only offer the Mazuri for Grassland Species, which it is entirely wrong for a RedFoot).

Could you please post a picture of your tank. It would make it easier for us to make suggestions if we could see exactly what you have to work with.

What I am envisioning from what you've said, is a glass aquarium with a screen top. I would immediately cover most of the screen top with foil, brining the foil to the edges of your lamps' shades/bells/reflectors (whichever you call them), and press it tightly around those edges. That way you are sealing the heat inside, but the bulbs can still direct their heat or light into the enclosure.

Do NOT worry about air transfer. Seal it up as tight as you can. Every time you open the top to feed or soak your tortoise there is a huge influx of fresh air, and your tortoise is not going to suffocate or run out of oxygen.



How often are you soaking Your tortoise and for how long?
Since it isn't feeling well, it needs soaking even more than usual. You'll need a steep-sided container (the smallish Rubbermaid-type totes work well, as do just about any water-tight container that the tort can't climb out of (buckets, small tanks, any similar item that it can't really see/climb out of and that holds water). The water needs to be within a degree or two of 95F for every minute your tortoise is in it. Some people use two containers and whenever the first one cools below 94F or so, switch to other container so that the tortoise doesn't get chilled, and re-do the first so its ready for when number two is too cold... just switching to the warmer one every little while. I use a sink and every time it drops below lukewarm I drain it, then put more warm water in.
The water should only be as deep as where the top and bottom shells come together, when the tortoise is standing comfortably on the bottom of the container. Because this is fairly shallow, it will cool down quickly so you MUST keep a close eye on the water temp. A short soak is half an hour long. Since yours is not feeling well, make the soak 45 minutes or an hour, keeping it warm the whole time. Soaking will help hydrate your tortoise, and because of heat transfer, warm it quickly. Most tortoises also poop when being soaked, which helps you know its eliminating in a healthy manner. Of course, that demands a water change, too. Soaking helps an ill tortoise immensely. Sometimes it is a good thing to do to put some strained carrot babyfood into the soak water to get a little nutrition into a tortoise that isn't eating - BUT - I would try warming yours up before doing that. It seems like yours has just been chronically cold for a while and warmth and humidity should correct the problem.





.

Thank you for the additional information. I've been dealing with family stuff but I've been making changes to her enclosure in the mean time. I wanted to pop in to read the latest comment and provide an lan update.

I have been soaking her daily for about 2 1/2 weeks now. I was only doing 30 mins but I'll bump it up to 45 mins. I've ordered a Zen habitat enclosure which will probably be here end of those month or January.

In the meantime I bought a greenhouse to cover her enclosure completely and the temp and humidity has been 85+. I do still need to get a few more items though. Here are some updated pics.

Again, thank you all for your help and guidance.

 

[EppsDynasty]

I was only doing 30 mins but I'll bump it up to 45 mins

When you soak cover the tub/tote with a towel or pillow case or something to keep it as warm as possible for as long as possible BUT you cannot let the water get colder than 78 F or you are doing more harm than good. In a 45 minute soak session you should be changing the water a minimum of 3 times.

 

[COmtnLady]

Is she eating better/easier now that she's warmer and there's humidity? If not, warm the enclosure another 5 or 8 degrees until she has rallied for ten days or at least a week.

The greenhouse is a very good idea! Gold star!