Shell rot? - new Redfoot tortoise

[BnDees86]

I just got this redfoot Sunday. It was in a tiny 10-20 gallon glass tank at a “puppy mill” type of pet store. I have a sulcata, and have always wanted a redfoot, and I couldn’t let this guy live in that tiny tank, so I bought it and have it a temporary Rubbermaid tote setup. I noticed this crack right away when in the store, and plan on getting it into a reptile vet. Is it shell rot? Can I treat it until it goes to the vet? What should I use? It has sharp edges where it is broken that concern me as well.

 

[Tom]

That is not shell rot. Shell rot occurs on the plastron when RFs are kept on wet substrate all the time.

 

[BnDees86]

That is not shell rot. Shell rot occurs on the plastron when RFs are kept on wet substrate all the time.

Do you think it could be an old injury? Is there anything I should do to treat it, or just wait and see the vet? The edges are sharp, it doesn’t seem to cut its face or arms on it. The inside of the broken piece is brown kinda of flaky but not soft. Its enclosure was sad… its hide, water bowl and food bowl were all touching. No walking space, and its heat lamp was over its hide. It looked dry and dehydrated, and soaking it has brightened it up and it enjoys it.
I have sulcata experience, so a redfoot was a different learning curve. We’re building a large wooden enclosure now. It will have outside space once it’s warmer here in Indiana.

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

have it a temporary Rubbermaid tote setup

Check out this thread to make sure your tote set up holds humidity:

How to make a closed-chamber baby habitat out of a 55gal Sterilite bin

Since several folks have asked about how to make a closed chamber baby enclosure out of a 55gal Sterilite tote, here are some pics and description of how I do. This is not the most beautiful option, but since the babies will only be in here for 9-12 months, I'm okay with that. My own Russian...

tortoiseforum.org

 

[Tom]

Do you think it could be an old injury? Is there anything I should do to treat it, or just wait and see the vet? The edges are sharp, it doesn’t seem to cut its face or arms on it. The inside of the broken piece is brown kinda of flaky but not soft. Its enclosure was sad… its hide, water bowl and food bowl were all touching. No walking space, and its heat lamp was over its hide. It looked dry and dehydrated, and soaking it has brightened it up and it enjoys it.
I have sulcata experience, so a redfoot was a different learning curve. We’re building a large wooden enclosure now. It will have outside space once it’s warmer here in Indiana.

It appears to be an older injury. Nothing to do about it now.

Be careful going to a vet. Most of them know little or nothing about tortoise care and will do more harm than good. There is no semester on tortoise care in vet school and even if there was, the curriculum would be based on the same wrong info that everyone else learns from. Don't let the vet do any "vitamin injections" or "calcium injections, and don't let them inject Baytril (Enrofloxacin) into your tortoise. These are all clear signs of a vet that doesn't know how to treat or care for a tortoise. We can explain more if needed, but use caution.

Last thing, coco coir is not unsafe, but it's difficult to keep it damp enough and maintain adequate humidity in a RF enclosure without causing shell rot. Coco coir is also very messy. Fine grade orchid bark works best as the top layers can remain relatively dry, while the lower layers are kept damp to help keep humidity high. Of course you need a large closed chamber to do any of this too, in case you didn't already know that. It can be difficult to find O bark when not on the west coast, but look for Repti-bark from Chewy.com or Petco.com. They sell it in 24 quart bags and you'll need 3-4 inches of it.

 

[BnDees86]

It appears to be an older injury. Nothing to do about it now.

Be careful going to a vet. Most of them know little or nothing about tortoise care and will do more harm than good. There is no semester on tortoise care in vet school and even if there was, the curriculum would be based on the same wrong info that everyone else learns from. Don't let the vet do any "vitamin injections" or "calcium injections, and don't let them inject Baytril (Enrofloxacin) into your tortoise. These are all clear signs of a vet that doesn't know how to treat or care for a tortoise. We can explain more if needed, but use caution.

Last thing, coco coir is not unsafe, but it's difficult to keep it damp enough and maintain adequate humidity in a RF enclosure without causing shell rot. Coco coir is also very messy. Fine grade orchid bark works best as the top layers can remain relatively dry, while the lower layers are kept damp to help keep humidity high. Of course you need a large closed chamber to do any of this too, in case you didn't already know that. It can be difficult to find O bark when not on the west coast, but look for Repti-bark from Chewy.com or Petco.com. They sell it in 24 quart bags and you'll need 3-4 inches of it.

Perfect! I had coco and moss on hand, I just got a shipment of the repti-bark today. I’ve almost got the setup perfect, the temp and humidity has been tricky, but I’ve enclosed the open part and have the mesh opening for the light and Che which is helping. The repti-bark addition has really helped. Once we have the wooden enclosure is built, can we do a bioactive type of terrarium? I’m going to put a greenhouse tent over the enclosure for when it’s cold here in Indiana and inside. You’ve eased my mind, I appreciate your help!

 

[BnDees86]

Check out this thread to make sure your tote set up holds humidity:

How to make a closed-chamber baby habitat out of a 55gal Sterilite bin

Since several folks have asked about how to make a closed chamber baby enclosure out of a 55gal Sterilite tote, here are some pics and description of how I do. This is not the most beautiful option, but since the babies will only be in here for 9-12 months, I'm okay with that. My own Russian...

tortoiseforum.org

I appreciate it, thank you!

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

Perfect! I had coco and moss on hand, I just got a shipment of the repti-bark today. I’ve almost got the setup perfect, the temp and humidity has been tricky, but I’ve enclosed the open part and have the mesh opening for the light and Che which is helping. The repti-bark addition has really helped. Once we have the wooden enclosure is built, can we do a bioactive type of terrarium? I’m going to put a greenhouse tent over the enclosure for when it’s cold here in Indiana and inside. You’ve eased my mind, I appreciate your help!

@Alex and the Redfoot has some experience with a redfoot in a bioactive setup.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Perfect! I had coco and moss on hand, I just got a shipment of the repti-bark today. I’ve almost got the setup perfect, the temp and humidity has been tricky, but I’ve enclosed the open part and have the mesh opening for the light and Che which is helping. The repti-bark addition has really helped. Once we have the wooden enclosure is built, can we do a bioactive type of terrarium? I’m going to put a greenhouse tent over the enclosure for when it’s cold here in Indiana and inside. You’ve eased my mind, I appreciate your help!

Skip the moss, hopefully you find this useful as well as the others, this housing thread covers correct equipment(uvb, heating bulbs, lighting etc), correct levels, importance of a closed chamber for younger tortoises and red foots(only way to maintain the humidity you need), appropriately maintaining the humidity(they are prone to shell rot so this is important! No misters or humidifiers), safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, a diet list and a really handy diet link to check out! If going with a greenhouse, the lower the ceiling height, whilst still allowing for recommended bulb height, the better! But I’ll add some more ideas below for closed chambers

Young red foot/ cherryhead set up

Hello there! In this thread I’m going to include some information on an effective example of a starter enclosure for a red foot/cherry head😊 Care advice for these guys is painfully behind, fb pages, YouTube, pet stores, they’re all repeating the same outdated advice, this forum is made of...

tortoiseforum.org

This includes different closed chambers, was the plan a closed viv? They can work well

Visual inspiration

Hi guys! I’ve had some lovely messages complimenting me on my care sheets I made for all the visuals they include! That makes me so happy because as a visual learner myself, that was my goal🥰 I’ve recently had some requests for some more visual inspiration for set ups that can house babies/...

tortoiseforum.org

Lastly, this one here is good to go over and keep on hand, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying

Common keeping errors

Hello everyone! I’d been a long time lurker on this site long before joining just under a year ago now, over that time I’ve seen these husbandry issues come up time and time again, sometimes with dire consequences☹️ I thought this thread might serve as a good visual guide for these common...

tortoiseforum.org

Hope they help!

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

I can't say that have much experience yet.

If you build a large enclosure (something around 10 sq.ft. per inch of shell length) and climate doesn't allow to keep tortoise outside - bioactive planted setup makes sense. A bored tortoise in a small enclosure leave no chances to keep plants alive.

The easiest is to use potted plants and have some springtails and common isopods to cleanup leftovers.

If you want to make bioactive setup anyway, you will need good substrate depth (8-10" or more + drainage layer), enough height from substrate to the ceiling (3-4 ft.), bright ambient lights, a decent substrate mix (safe for tortoise, not muddy, not compacting).

P.S. - that's a bored tortoise (she has access to outside pen almost all year round).