That sounds goodThank you and I’m using a 100 watt bulb ( no coil ) and for uvb I’m using 10.0 uvb repti sun 24 watt and a 80 watt ceramic heat lamp at night
That sounds goodThank you and I’m using a 100 watt bulb ( no coil ) and for uvb I’m using 10.0 uvb repti sun 24 watt and a 80 watt ceramic heat lamp at night
BUT...I have a 'farrowing' pad for my bigger tortoises. It's on a rehostat and has been in place for 14 years and gone thru a number of tortoises, it works fine and my sleeping box is big enuf for the tort to get off the pad to cool off.You shouldn't use an under tank heat mat for any species of tortoise. Babies often get burned because some are not smart enuf to get off the mat when they get too hot. You might put it against the side. Those babies are delicate
Cbb reptilesThey should usually be very active but, sleeping is something they really love to do. Where did you get this beautiful star tortoise
Ok I will post it I promise , it’s just my brother has been proving photos due to my absence, currently out of town , but I’ll b back sometime this week ! Thank you so much !Well, I'm not really seeing anything specific from the photos you've posted.
If the appetite is good, and this wee one is able to move about and maintain Optimal digestive, metabolic, and immune temperatures...I'd say that's all good.
You have not posted photos of the enclosure. There may be (even minor) issues with your set up that are causing the things that are concerning you. Hatchlings are very sensitive to environment. They need the proper levels of light, radiation, heat, shade, cover, humidity, territory...in order to recover from the shock of moving home and then to thrive.
Well, I'm not really seeing anything specific from the photos you've posted.
If the appetite is good, and this wee one is able to move about and maintain Optimal digestive, metabolic, and immune temperatures...I'd say that's all good.
You have not posted photos of the enclosure. There may be (even minor) issues with your set up that are causing the things that are concerning you. Hatchlings are very sensitive to environment. They need the proper levels of light, radiation, heat, shade, cover, humidity, territory...in order to recover from the shock of moving home and then to thrive.
Well, I'm not really seeing anything specific from the photos you've posted.
If the appetite is good, and this wee one is able to move about and maintain Optimal digestive, metabolic, and immune temperatures...I'd say that's all good.
You have not posted photos of the enclosure. There may be (even minor) issues with your set up that are causing the things that are concerning you. Hatchlings are very sensitive to environment. They need the proper levels of light, radiation, heat, shade, cover, humidity, territory...in order to recover from the shock of moving home and then to thrive.
Thank you so freakin much for your advice I’m using all of it ! Thank u100*F is rather high. 95*F is a more realistic basking "spot", and 85-90*F everywhere else. Overnight temps should never dip below 80*F. Red colored bulbs keep torts awake at night -- they can see the light; use only a CHE. Most people end up investing in thermostats to keep things more closely optimized (you still have to verify).
There is no grassy cover like would be around for hatchlings in the wild...add a few good clumps of plastic vine (or real leafy plants - pothos, boston fern) to mitigate the intense uvb radiation coming down.
Realistically, you only need 3-4 hours uvb exposure (check the bulb package for the recommended height - radiation travels and disperses as it gets farther away from the source). Babies experiencing too much harsh lighting and radiation often squeeze their eyes shut for protection. The thin skin of the corneas is very susceptible to over-drying and radiation burns.
Couple more tweeks and s/he should be getting back to usual! Try a plain artificial tears drop or gel if the squinting persists over the next week.