Closed "Chambers"

Taylor T.

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
588
Location (City and/or State)
New England
If you are worrying about him running out of oxygen, don't. Unless your enclosure is sealed like a refrigerator there is no way he could use it up faster than it leaks in.

He would probably be fine even if it was perfectly sealed, because every time you open it to feed him, or soak him, you would be letting in lots of fresh air.
 

lukarw

New Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2018
Messages
5
Location (City and/or State)
barcelona
If you are worrying about him running out of oxygen, don't. Unless your enclosure is sealed like a refrigerator there is no way he could use it up faster than it leaks in.

He would probably be fine even if it was perfectly sealed, because every time you open it to feed him, or soak him, you would be letting in lots of fresh air.


thanks a lot. I was in deed worried that he will get uncomfortable due to lack of air :)
 

TortRook1

New Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2018
Messages
16
Location (City and/or State)
El paso texas
Could I use flex seal to coat the inside of the closed chamber box to help with the moisture and soil so it doesn't rot the wood? Any other recommendations for building the box?
 

daniellenc

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2017
Messages
2,084
Location (City and/or State)
Maryland
Could I use flex seal to coat the inside of the closed chamber box to help with the moisture and soil so it doesn't rot the wood? Any other recommendations for building the box?
Check out the enclosure threads there’s so many great ideas and different safe sealants to choose from.
 

TechnoCheese

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Feb 20, 2016
Messages
4,506
Location (City and/or State)
Lewisville, Texas
Could I use flex seal to coat the inside of the closed chamber box to help with the moisture and soil so it doesn't rot the wood? Any other recommendations for building the box?

I did that with mine. Be sure that it’s not a super thin coat, because Curtis dug through the thin coat I put down ;)
 

Romeo Serback

Active Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2015
Messages
270
Location (City and/or State)
New Jersey
I think these threads should be kept fresh.
Mostly, Nobody's going to read thought 11 pages.
Wrong. I'm reading every one. Lol I might not know as much as everybody here, but I'm learning quite a bit more than if I didn't. I love the perspective and enclosure ideas and will sometimes screenshot those points. I do get confused about the light studies though.
 

SheLLife

New Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2018
Messages
22
Location (City and/or State)
Kentucky
I use lower wattage heat lamps, place them right in the glass aquarium, and use a plexiglass cover to seal in the humidity. I have not had any issues with mold, shell rot, or "lack of air-flow."

My Sulcatas, Redfoot (now yearling,) and Star hatchlings have been kept this way from day one and have grown smooth. I started my Greek (yearling now also) in a a sweater box with a humid hide, and she started to pyramid. It isn't bad, but it makes me feel like a failure.

Here are some pics of my aquariums.

As you can see in this one, the heat lamps are right down in the enclosure. The one over the water dish turns it into a little "sauna" and the smaller, darker of the two babies loves to lay in it. She will put her little head on the rim and go to sleep there.

IMG00052-20110402-1312.jpg


IMG00050-20110402-1311.jpg


Here are the babies. They are bigger now (WAAAAAAYYYY past time to update pictures!)

KristinasPictures021.jpg


Here is where I kept my first Star before summer hit. You can see again the heat source is right down in there. In this case it is a 60 watt black light bulb (both this enclosure and the one above have these as a heat source with an additional florescent for light.)

KristinasPictures413686.jpg


Here is the result...

KristinasPictures113.jpg


Next is my little Redfoot. This one started out in an old Metaframe slate bottom aquarium. The hood for the tank has two incandescent sockets, which hold compact florescents, and the other hanging down is a 60 watt black light bulb.

KristinasPictures4002.jpg


Having that set up made this...

KristinasPictures009.jpg


KristinasPictures011.jpg

I use lower wattage heat lamps, place them right in the glass aquarium, and use a plexiglass cover to seal in the humidity. I have not had any issues with mold, shell rot, or "lack of air-flow."

My Sulcatas, Redfoot (now yearling,) and Star hatchlings have been kept this way from day one and have grown smooth. I started my Greek (yearling now also) in a a sweater box with a humid hide, and she started to pyramid. It isn't bad, but it makes me feel like a failure.

Here are some pics of my aquariums.

As you can see in this one, the heat lamps are right down in the enclosure. The one over the water dish turns it into a little "sauna" and the smaller, darker of the two babies loves to lay in it. She will put her little head on the rim and go to sleep there.

IMG00052-20110402-1312.jpg


IMG00050-20110402-1311.jpg


Here are the babies. They are bigger now (WAAAAAAYYYY past time to update pictures!)

KristinasPictures021.jpg


Here is where I kept my first Star before summer hit. You can see again the heat source is right down in there. In this case it is a 60 watt black light bulb (both this enclosure and the one above have these as a heat source with an additional florescent for light.)

KristinasPictures413686.jpg


Here is the result...

KristinasPictures113.jpg


Next is my little Redfoot. This one started out in an old Metaframe slate bottom aquarium. The hood for the tank has two incandescent sockets, which hold compact florescents, and the other hanging down is a 60 watt black light bulb.

KristinasPictures4002.jpg


Having that set up made this...

KristinasPictures009.jpg


KristinasPictures011.jpg
Hello Kristina, I'm feeling like the worst tortoise mommy right now! I have two amazing Sri Lankan Stars about 6 and 8 months. Had them since they were 2 and 4 weeks. I thought I was doing well with them but now I'm concerned. I was expecting some pyramiding due to their genes but I have read recently that there are keepers with smooth shelled Sris. I have them in a 40 gal breeder with hinged screen lid under a 75w heat lamp (was 100w but kept blowing bulbs) and a UV bulb. I hope that's enough info on lights can't remember the details since I went through several bulbs at first. Their humidity says it stays around 80%. 90+ at night when all lights are off, and it's always about 90°F under their basking area. I soaked them every day for about 20 min at first and now about every 2-3 days with misting enclosure in between. I just placed a piece of wood down the middle to separate them bc I read that the bigger one was bullying and stressing my little one out. I didn't see this, thought they were just close. Now my lights are straight down the middle over the wood. This is temporary of course. Just wanted your opinion on how to improve their lives. I hope I don't sound dumb I'm new at this. I desperately want to do everything I can to be the best tortoise mommy I can. When is it time to remove from the closed chamber? I am suddenly doubting myself feel like I know nothing despite my studies. I was thinking of getting Jerry D Fife's Star Tortoise book and doing as he says. Any opinion or input will be greatly appreciated. Also I'm sorry I don't know how to insert a picture. Hope my description was clear and sufficient.
 
Last edited:

mike6789

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2018
Messages
32
Location (City and/or State)
indonesia
Been meaning to do this one for a while now...

Over the years I have kept a lot of reptiles in a lot of different ways. I've learned a lot of stuff about a lot of species. Since finding and joining this forum almost two years ago, I've learned a TON more. Now I'm not just stumbling around alone in the dark. Now, with the help of all the fantastic TFO members, I can see and experience everyone else's enclosures and styles too.

There are a lot of good ways to house a tortoise indoors. Tank, tub, trough, table, and... closed chamber. Different methods work best for the various species and ages. Through all of my "experiments" and sharing the vast experience of others here on the forum, I have reached my current conclusion that "closed chambers", with a basking lamp inside, are the best means of housing the babies of most species. Everyone's situation is different, and we all live in different climates... heck our torts are all from different climates too. Still, overall, I have personally experienced the best results and seen the best results from others, in this style of enclosure. Several people come to mind, but Tyler, Neal, Kristina and KBaker, have especially shown their enclosures and the results. There are lots of others too, but these members have had the biggest influence on me recently.

Only in a closed chamber can I control the humidity properly. Its very dry where I live, and its a constant battle to maintain any humidity at all in most enclosures. In a closed chamber, its a piece of cake. I've used glass tanks and various styles of tortoise tables for years to house my chelonians, but the open tops let out all that beneficial humidity and heat. By putting my heat lamps and CHEs INSIDE the closed enclosure, they do NOT dry things out AND they use a lot less power to give me the same amount of heat. Plus, once they heat everything up and the thermostat kicks them off, the heat just stays in there. I'm using less electricity on my 4x8' closed chamber than I am on my 40 gallon open topped glass tank! (I have little electric meters called "Kill-A-Watt EZ"). The humidity is lower directly under the heat lamp, but its as high as I want to keep it all around that area and the rest of the enclosure.
105a0qf.jpg

radxzl.jpg


In theory this all sounds reasonable, but what happens in the real world? I've gotten the best results I've ever gotten in this type of enclosure. On a lot of my glass tanks I end up covering as much of the top as I can. It seems like the more and better I cover them, the better the results I get. But I still lose all my heat and humidity out of the hole that has to be there for my light fixtures. Like this one:
1z8002.jpg


This leads me to a big problem that has come up recently with several potential new tortoise keepers. Where does one go buy a "closed tortoise chamber" for their new pet? Most conventional enclosures are too shallow to have a closed top and still allow enough room for a hanging fixture with a hot bulb in it. I like the Vision tubs, but they are too short for this purpose. My leopard enclosure is 24" tall and that just barely accommodates things safely. When I build the next one it will be around 30" tall. I have not seen a pre-made enclosure with the right dimensions. Tyler showed me this one that he is using. I can't remember which species he is housing in this.
k9hm5z.jpg


Remember we are talking about housing babies. Not adults or even juveniles. Discussion is welcome here. I'm always wanting to learn more.

in this picture why do you put some tortoise together is it possible for parda to put in a group? sorry for asking to much question but here in Indonesia we don't have much source to learn
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
63,428
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
Groups of juveniles are usually fine. Pairs are the problem.

When the male SouthAfrican leopards begin to mature at around 18 months old, they get very aggressive with each other and with any females present. I find it best to house the males all alone and introduce them for breeding once in a while.
 

mike6789

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2018
Messages
32
Location (City and/or State)
indonesia
Groups of juveniles are usually fine. Pairs are the problem.

When the male SouthAfrican leopards begin to mature at around 18 months old, they get very aggressive with each other and with any females present. I find it best to house the males all alone and introduce them for breeding once in a while.

thank you[emoji120]
 

Hai

Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2018
Messages
130
Location (City and/or State)
Tucson az
So I'm constructing my chamber. Is it better to use expanded PVC or wood? If I use wood what do I coat the bottlem so it doesnt rot. Thanks
 

tinytortoise

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
142
Location (City and/or State)
Austin, Texas
Been meaning to do this one for a while now...

Over the years I have kept a lot of reptiles in a lot of different ways. I've learned a lot of stuff about a lot of species. Since finding and joining this forum almost two years ago, I've learned a TON more. Now I'm not just stumbling around alone in the dark. Now, with the help of all the fantastic TFO members, I can see and experience everyone else's enclosures and styles too.

There are a lot of good ways to house a tortoise indoors. Tank, tub, trough, table, and... closed chamber. Different methods work best for the various species and ages. Through all of my "experiments" and sharing the vast experience of others here on the forum, I have reached my current conclusion that "closed chambers", with a basking lamp inside, are the best means of housing the babies of most species. Everyone's situation is different, and we all live in different climates... heck our torts are all from different climates too. Still, overall, I have personally experienced the best results and seen the best results from others, in this style of enclosure. Several people come to mind, but Tyler, Neal, Kristina and KBaker, have especially shown their enclosures and the results. There are lots of others too, but these members have had the biggest influence on me recently.

Only in a closed chamber can I control the humidity properly. Its very dry where I live, and its a constant battle to maintain any humidity at all in most enclosures. In a closed chamber, its a piece of cake. I've used glass tanks and various styles of tortoise tables for years to house my chelonians, but the open tops let out all that beneficial humidity and heat. By putting my heat lamps and CHEs INSIDE the closed enclosure, they do NOT dry things out AND they use a lot less power to give me the same amount of heat. Plus, once they heat everything up and the thermostat kicks them off, the heat just stays in there. I'm using less electricity on my 4x8' closed chamber than I am on my 40 gallon open topped glass tank! (I have little electric meters called "Kill-A-Watt EZ"). The humidity is lower directly under the heat lamp, but its as high as I want to keep it all around that area and the rest of the enclosure.
105a0qf.jpg

radxzl.jpg


In theory this all sounds reasonable, but what happens in the real world? I've gotten the best results I've ever gotten in this type of enclosure. On a lot of my glass tanks I end up covering as much of the top as I can. It seems like the more and better I cover them, the better the results I get. But I still lose all my heat and humidity out of the hole that has to be there for my light fixtures. Like this one:
1z8002.jpg


This leads me to a big problem that has come up recently with several potential new tortoise keepers. Where does one go buy a "closed tortoise chamber" for their new pet? Most conventional enclosures are too shallow to have a closed top and still allow enough room for a hanging fixture with a hot bulb in it. I like the Vision tubs, but they are too short for this purpose. My leopard enclosure is 24" tall and that just barely accommodates things safely. When I build the next one it will be around 30" tall. I have not seen a pre-made enclosure with the right dimensions. Tyler showed me this one that he is using. I can't remember which species he is housing in this.
k9hm5z.jpg


Remember we are talking about housing babies. Not adults or even juveniles. Discussion is welcome here. I'm always wanting to learn more.


@Tom, In the picture of the PVC lid, how do you adhere the plastic to the pipes? I'm hoping to build a similar lid for a 50 gal stock tank!
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
63,428
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
@Tom, In the picture of the PVC lid, how do you adhere the plastic to the pipes? I'm hoping to build a similar lid for a 50 gal stock tank!
That is a pic of someone else's enclosure. This thread is 7 years old and I don't remember whose that was anymore.
 

briancla

New Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2018
Messages
4
Location (City and/or State)
sacramento
Do you think 1 150w CHE will heat a 72x24x24? i have a extra 100 laying around i could possibly toss in it as well? just to keep the temps around 80. i was also going to put a 100w basking spot lamp for the day time. i have 2 t5s with arcadia tubes for my uvb. i'm getting ready to move my torts over to the new enclosure. i'm just trying to make sure that the heat will be able to keep up on my closed chamber. or do you think i should run 2 lower watt ceramics? as long as they are on a thermostat should it matter to much about the wattage?
 

surfergirl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2015
Messages
489
If you make a door for a closed chamber out of an insulated glass window, and put the exterior side of the window towards the inside of the chamber, beware that low-e glass will reflect uv rays back into the enclosure. Depending on the angle of the uv hitting the low-e glass, it can cause melting and even fire to objects in the focus point. Similar to sun on a magnifying glass. We have had people call complaining that their grass was burnt and also their vinyl siding melted due to their neighbors window reflecting rays on their property. In GA they require low-e glass to meet code, as a solution, adding a screen on the outside of the unit breaks up the rays eliminating the issue.
Not sure if this could be an issue or not. I would be sure to use non low-e insulated glass just to be on the safe side.
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
63,428
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
Do you think 1 150w CHE will heat a 72x24x24? i have a extra 100 laying around i could possibly toss in it as well? just to keep the temps around 80. i was also going to put a 100w basking spot lamp for the day time. i have 2 t5s with arcadia tubes for my uvb. i'm getting ready to move my torts over to the new enclosure. i'm just trying to make sure that the heat will be able to keep up on my closed chamber. or do you think i should run 2 lower watt ceramics? as long as they are on a thermostat should it matter to much about the wattage?
Hello and welcome to the forum.

I would use the two CHEs in something that size. The thermostat will keep them from over heating everything. Having two will spread the heat out better, and also give you some redundant safety in the event that one of them stops working for some reason.

I would not use a "spot" bulb. Those concentrate too much heat into too small of an area and greatly contribute to pyramiding due to the carapace desiccation they cause. Flood bulbs work much better, and lower wattage floods tend to be less desiccating. I normally start with a regular 65 watt flood from the hard ware store, and adjust the height to get the correct temperature under it. Let your thermometers be your guide here. Only your thermometers can tell you if you've got the right wattage heating and lighting elements.
 
Top