Sick Adult Leopard

Snow Leopard

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Sorry for the long post, but I’m trying to include all of the relevant details. I know there are some real experts on here, I appreciate if you are able to lend some of your knowledge.

We have an appointment on Tuesday with an exotics vet. I would like to know what questions I should be asking and what tests we should be running. I’m also looking for any husbandry advice, I’ll try to implement your suggestions.


My female leopard tortoise has been slowly losing her appetite. She was acting normally through the summer and fall, then about six weeks ago I noticed that she wasn’t eating as much as usual. She often slows down a bit during the winter but this was unusual. Now she is eating very little and is not as active as she should be. I bumped up the temperatures a couple of degrees about a month ago and gave her warm soaks 3x/week. She was improving, and then about a week ago she went downhill again. Previously we did soaks 1-2 times a week, often she would put herself in the bath while I’m changing her water. She has access to her bathtub all the time. She isn’t moving around much, isn’t going into her tub and isn’t greeting me when I bring food. This is not normal for her. She has always had some clear nasal discharge, it became more copious (never green) but that also improved. Now she actually looks kind of dry.


History
Binky is 19-20 years old, female. Shell length 12.5”. 11lbs-7oz. She feels light and appears to be underweight. She was a healthy body score in the past.
She is heavily pyramided, I take full blame for this. She was raised at the time of “hot and dry”, results from “hot and humid” keeping were just starting to emerge and I unfortunately chose the wrong path. She has always been a quieter tortoise, and I’ve always felt that she was not as robust as she could be. I have a second tortoise (male, housed separately) who acts like a bulldozer.

She has had a mild case of RNS almost her whole life. She has had several rounds of antibiotics at various times but it never cleared up, and honestly didn’t make much difference. Last year I had a jailbreak and the tortoises had an interlude, she laid eggs later that year. I was worried that this would cause her trouble due to the calcium demand. I increased her calcium supplement, made sure she had plenty of food, regular soaks, and she seemed to bounce back without incident.

Indoor Housing
Last year I built a new sunroom/tortoise shed/house addition. It has big windows, is heavily insulated, built in tortoise bath, hot and cold running water. She has about 11’ x 6’ of floor space. Access to water 24/7 from a 36” shower base, she can drink from or sit in.
The torts seem pretty content, I think the natural light and being able to see the sky has improved their welfare. They tend to pace if something isn’t right, dirty water, dirty bedding, too hot, too humid, don’t like the food, etc. I have seen very little pacing since the move.

Outdoor Housing
When it is warm enough she goes outside to a weedy pasture. It is about 1/2 acre but she only uses about half of that. I put her out for about an hour in the spring and gradually increase it as it warms up. Sometimes she can be out 24hrs in August If it has been really hot. I am in the BC interior it gets about 100f during the summer. She spends about four months inside 24hrs/day during the winter.

Light and Temperature
Ambient 79f - 82f
Basking 92f-102f
Top of shell temp 98f, measured 30 min ago.

Lamp is a halogen. I used mercury vapour in the past. I recently switched to Arcadia 12%. I don’t have a solar meter so I set it to the manufacturers specs, she immediately hid from it. Behaviour I had never seen her do. I raised it 6”, she still hid. I raised it another 6” and she returned to basking. So who knows if its actually doing anything.

Food
Spring, summer, fall - grass and weeds. As much as they want. I pick it for them to supplement whatever they are foraging. Occasional grated carrot and squash.
Winter, grocery store greens. I tried an experiment last year where I picked grass and froze it. Once thawed it was just like fresh and they eat it as normal. I’ve run out, but will fill a freezer this year.
They wont eat hay, soaked hay, or commercial pellets. I’ve tried and tried.
They have never had fruit.

Supplements
Calcium 2x week. Calcium +D3 very other week. Minerals every other week. Access to cuttle bones. I admit I have not been super consistent with the supplements, but I have tried to keep up with Binky’s

I’m open to any suggestions. I’ll try to post some pictures.. Thanks for reading, I’m happy to answer any questions.


Public service announcement.
Research juvenile care carefully, it has lifelong concecuences.
If you live in Canada you really shouldn’t get a leopard tortoise unless you have unlimited funds and a lot of space.
 

Tom

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Sorry for the long post, but I’m trying to include all of the relevant details. I know there are some real experts on here, I appreciate if you are able to lend some of your knowledge.

We have an appointment on Tuesday with an exotics vet. I would like to know what questions I should be asking and what tests we should be running. I’m also looking for any husbandry advice, I’ll try to implement your suggestions.


My female leopard tortoise has been slowly losing her appetite. She was acting normally through the summer and fall, then about six weeks ago I noticed that she wasn’t eating as much as usual. She often slows down a bit during the winter but this was unusual. Now she is eating very little and is not as active as she should be. I bumped up the temperatures a couple of degrees about a month ago and gave her warm soaks 3x/week. She was improving, and then about a week ago she went downhill again. Previously we did soaks 1-2 times a week, often she would put herself in the bath while I’m changing her water. She has access to her bathtub all the time. She isn’t moving around much, isn’t going into her tub and isn’t greeting me when I bring food. This is not normal for her. She has always had some clear nasal discharge, it became more copious (never green) but that also improved. Now she actually looks kind of dry.


History
Binky is 19-20 years old, female. Shell length 12.5”. 11lbs-7oz. She feels light and appears to be underweight. She was a healthy body score in the past.
She is heavily pyramided, I take full blame for this. She was raised at the time of “hot and dry”, results from “hot and humid” keeping were just starting to emerge and I unfortunately chose the wrong path. She has always been a quieter tortoise, and I’ve always felt that she was not as robust as she could be. I have a second tortoise (male, housed separately) who acts like a bulldozer.

She has had a mild case of RNS almost her whole life. She has had several rounds of antibiotics at various times but it never cleared up, and honestly didn’t make much difference. Last year I had a jailbreak and the tortoises had an interlude, she laid eggs later that year. I was worried that this would cause her trouble due to the calcium demand. I increased her calcium supplement, made sure she had plenty of food, regular soaks, and she seemed to bounce back without incident.

Indoor Housing
Last year I built a new sunroom/tortoise shed/house addition. It has big windows, is heavily insulated, built in tortoise bath, hot and cold running water. She has about 11’ x 6’ of floor space. Access to water 24/7 from a 36” shower base, she can drink from or sit in.
The torts seem pretty content, I think the natural light and being able to see the sky has improved their welfare. They tend to pace if something isn’t right, dirty water, dirty bedding, too hot, too humid, don’t like the food, etc. I have seen very little pacing since the move.

Outdoor Housing
When it is warm enough she goes outside to a weedy pasture. It is about 1/2 acre but she only uses about half of that. I put her out for about an hour in the spring and gradually increase it as it warms up. Sometimes she can be out 24hrs in August If it has been really hot. I am in the BC interior it gets about 100f during the summer. She spends about four months inside 24hrs/day during the winter.

Light and Temperature
Ambient 79f - 82f
Basking 92f-102f
Top of shell temp 98f, measured 30 min ago.

Lamp is a halogen. I used mercury vapour in the past. I recently switched to Arcadia 12%. I don’t have a solar meter so I set it to the manufacturers specs, she immediately hid from it. Behaviour I had never seen her do. I raised it 6”, she still hid. I raised it another 6” and she returned to basking. So who knows if its actually doing anything.

Food
Spring, summer, fall - grass and weeds. As much as they want. I pick it for them to supplement whatever they are foraging. Occasional grated carrot and squash.
Winter, grocery store greens. I tried an experiment last year where I picked grass and froze it. Once thawed it was just like fresh and they eat it as normal. I’ve run out, but will fill a freezer this year.
They wont eat hay, soaked hay, or commercial pellets. I’ve tried and tried.
They have never had fruit.

Supplements
Calcium 2x week. Calcium +D3 very other week. Minerals every other week. Access to cuttle bones. I admit I have not been super consistent with the supplements, but I have tried to keep up with Binky’s

I’m open to any suggestions. I’ll try to post some pictures.. Thanks for reading, I’m happy to answer any questions.


Public service announcement.
Research juvenile care carefully, it has lifelong concecuences.
If you live in Canada you really shouldn’t get a leopard tortoise unless you have unlimited funds and a lot of space.
I love your PSA at the end. This saves me from typing up the potentially annoying preachy lecture I was about to give regarding choosing a species suitable for your climate. Thank you for sharing that with other people.

So this species comes form Africa. This type of leopard evolved in the middle of Africa. It's hot, dry for part of the year, and the sunshine and UV is bight and intense year round. I'm not just referring to UV levels. I'm referring to the bright intense tropical sunshine in that part of the world.

When we keep an animal like this in an area that gets 16 hours a day of sunshine in summer and 16 hours of darkness in winter, it can really mess with their brains. Some people make it work and the tortoises do okay for a while. Other people have problems and it really just doesn't work over time. With all this in mind, I would heat it up and add more lighting. Ambient of 80 is good for night time, but think of an African day. It's hot and it's bright and sunny. Get ambient up into the low 90s during the day. Not the basking area, but the whole enclosure. I do this with babies of all the tropical species in my indoor closed chambers, and it works wonderfully. They thrive.

There is conflicting and confounding info about whether humidity helps or hurts with the respiratory problems. I've seen many cases of both. My suggestion to you would be do the opposite of what you are doing now with regard to humidity. I'd guess it is pretty humid up in BC, but maybe not in your indoor winter housing? Electric heat really dries things out, so maybe you need to add humidity. If it's humid now, try to dry it all out. If it's dry now, try to increase humidity. Your current conditions are not agreeing with the tortoise, so try the opposite. As long as it is warm day and night, and hot and sunny during the days, adding humidity or dryness should not hurt. Your soaking routine is great and will ensure hydration in dry conditions for an adult like yours. Keep the soak water warm the whole time.

If you do go to a vet, realize that vets know medical stuff, but few of them know husbandry. They will tell you all the same wrong info from all the same wrong sources that everyone else finds and learns from. There is no semester on tortoise care in vet school, but lots of time is spent on anatomy and physiology, surgery, medicine dosage and administration, wound care, etc... Do NOT let the vet do any "vitamin injections" or injectable Baytril. Both are signs of a vet that doesn't know tortoises.
 

TammyJ

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I hope that what Tom has suggested you do will help! Pictures would be good.
Let us know how the vet visit goes. Good luck!
 

Snow Leopard

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Thank you Yvonne and Tom for answering, I was hoping you would see my post.

I’ve bumped up the ambient temperature again and reduced the ventilation, this should raise the humidity. I don’t want to shut the ventilation off entirely because I worry about mould formation. There are two shower bases full f water in the space and it can get very muggy.

I live in a microclimate that is damp and snowy in the winter (current 80% humidity) And very hot and dry in the summer, lots of forest fires.
I have additional lighting in their room, 4000 lumen LED, on for about 12 hrs/day. It’s very bright, it also has large windows on thee sides. I have definitely noticed a difference with them having access to better lighting.

I’m sure she is female. It is possible that she has a retained egg, but I haven’t seen any nesting behaviour. So not really the symptoms of being egg bound. I can ask for an x-ray if it seems like a possibility.

I have worked at an animal shelter for many years and have frequent contact with vets. I know that some are good and some are not. I’m pretty good at advocating for what the animals needs when I have the correct knowledg. The baytril and the vitamin advice is very valuable.

I’ve chosen to go to a further exotics vet than the local one, after getting some very dodgy advice about a shelter reptile (maybe she’s good with birds). This vet told me that tortoises don’t have any bone in their shells and its keratin all the way through. Ooh boy. The vet clinic I’m going to is well known to our shelter and is known for being very compassionate, both tp the animal and the owner. Fingers crossed.

I agree that reptile keeping is very much about the husbandry, I’m not totally sure what I want the vet to do.

I can do more long posts about how difficult is to keep these torts in Canada. There are still people happily breeding. Once they become adults, there is no place for them to go if you cant keep them. The Leopard enclosure at the Calgary zoo less adequate than mine.

Thank you again for your help. I will keep you updated.
 

Snow Leopard

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Questions.

If she does have an infection, is there an antibiotic that has been effective?

Have you heard if tortoises can be given an appetite stimulant such as mertazapine or cerenia?
 

Kitkat45

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Yes, I had an exotic vet prescribe cerenia and
Metoclopramide with good results to increase appetite
 

zovick

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Questions.

If she does have an infection, is there an antibiotic that has been effective?

Have you heard if tortoises can be given an appetite stimulant such as mertazapine or cerenia?
Ceftazidime is a good injectable antibiotic without the side effects that Baytril causes, plus it needs to be given less frequently than Baytril: it is given every other day for severe infections and every three days for less severe infections.

Sorry, but I don't know anything about the appetite stimulants.

From reading your first post, I would guess that your tortoise is not warm enough. It probably needs to be close to 90F or even 95F throughout the enclosure much of the time, with basking area temps of 105-110F.

Additionally, chronic RNS could be due to Mycoplasma infection which will continue to come and go for life. The ceftazidime will most likely cause a remission, but tortoises with Mycoplasma are never actually completely free of the organism so it comes back periodically.
 
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Snow Leopard

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Ceftazidime is a good injectable antibiotic without the side effects that Baytril causes, plus it needs to be given less frequently than Baytril: it is given every other day for severe infections and every three days for less severe infections.

Sorry, but I don't know anything about the appetite stimulants.

From reading your first post, I would guess that your tortoise is not warm enough. It probably needs to be close to 90F or even 95F throughout the enclosure much of the time, with basking area temps of 105-110F.

Additionally, chronic RNS could be due to Mycoplasma infection which will continue to come and go for life. The ceftazidime will most likely cause a remission, but tortoises with Mycoplasma are never actually completely free of the organism so it comes back periodically.
Thanks for the information. I will suggest the ceftazidime if it comes to that.

I will increase her ambient temperature. I tried going to a 92f a while ago, she stopped basking and stayed in her hide. I figured she was too hot and lowered it. It might be different now that she is not feeling well. Would it be better for her to have a higher ambient and avoid the basking spot? Maybe too drying? At what temperature is there a risk of overheating? What are signs of overheating?
 

zovick

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Thanks for the information. I will suggest the ceftazidime if it comes to that.

I will increase her ambient temperature. I tried going to a 92f a while ago, she stopped basking and stayed in her hide. I figured she was too hot and lowered it. It might be different now that she is not feeling well. Would it be better for her to have a higher ambient and avoid the basking spot? Maybe too drying? At what temperature is there a risk of overheating? What are signs of overheating?
I think the higher ambient would be helpful. Just FYI, I kept and bred Indian Stars for many years and had 250 watt basking lights mounted about 16" to 18" above the substrate. The temps under those bulbs read about 118F with my heat gun. The Indian Stars used to pile up on top of each other under those bulbs to get closer to the heat. The shell temps of the ones on the top of the piles frequently read close to 120F.

Signs of overheating were never noted in that group of tortoises.

Signs of overheating which I have observed in tortoises outside in the sun here in GA were excessive salivation and open mouth breathing. This occurred with tortoises which had been recently acquired and were not used to my outdoor enclosures, so did not seek shade quickly enough when the sun got overhead. After a couple of these experiences, I learned not to put any new tortoises outside in the sun. I first put them in totally shaded pens until they seemed to get the idea that the sun was really hot here.
 

Snow Leopard

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So a little update. I’ve been gradually temperature, the ambient is currently about 92f. The humidity is creeping up slowly.
She showed a very slight improvement. Moved around a little bit and went into her hide. I’m doing short soaks every day, then seeing if she’ll eat afterwards. No luck on that front. I’ve managed to pick a small amount of her favourite weeds. Spring is sooo close, I’ll probably be able to stop the grocery greens this week.
She looked like she was straining to poop, or maybe an egg? I’ll ask for an X-ray tomorrow.
Only clear thin nasal discharge. Breathing seems pretty good.
I’ll report back after we see the vet tomorrow.
 

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Snow Leopard

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An update from our vet appointment.
We didn’t get any diagnosis, but we were able to rule out a number of bad things.
She doesn’t have pneumonia, retained eggs, bladder stones, blocked colon, foreign bodies or unusual masses. She doesn’t appear to have metabolic bone disease. She didn’t think that antibiotics were needed, she finds that the side effects to the GI tract can be extreme.
She thought that Binky looked somewhat dehydrated, we are going to try holding the ambient at 90f, keep raising the humidity, and give lots of warm baths.
I’ll monitor her weight, if she loses more than 10% we would need to look at critical care.
I feel somewhat hopeful. She tends to really perk up in the spring, so I’m hoping to be able to get her out for short periods.
I’ll post the X-rays when I get them.

As always, I appreciate your help.
 

TammyJ

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This is encouraging! Your vet seems like she knows her stuff. Keep it going! 👍
 

Tom

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An update from our vet appointment.
We didn’t get any diagnosis, but we were able to rule out a number of bad things.
She doesn’t have pneumonia, retained eggs, bladder stones, blocked colon, foreign bodies or unusual masses. She doesn’t appear to have metabolic bone disease. She didn’t think that antibiotics were needed, she finds that the side effects to the GI tract can be extreme.
She thought that Binky looked somewhat dehydrated, we are going to try holding the ambient at 90f, keep raising the humidity, and give lots of warm baths.
I’ll monitor her weight, if she loses more than 10% we would need to look at critical care.
I feel somewhat hopeful. She tends to really perk up in the spring, so I’m hoping to be able to get her out for short periods.
I’ll post the X-rays when I get them.

As always, I appreciate your help.
All good news. Sounds like you've got a good vet. This points us back to temperatures and lighting.
 

Snow Leopard

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Another update, unfortunately not a good one.
This afternoon she had a drop of blood from her nostril, and something smells off. She hasn’t eaten, doesn’t move much and sleeps all day. I’ve got a call into the vet, I’ll talk to them more tomorrow.
I don’t feel that I should let her go on indefinitely like this. How much is she suffering? Has anyone had success turning them around from this point. Euthanasia may be the kindest option. I don’t want to give up too soon, but I also don’t want her to spend weeks slowly dying.
I know it’s a difficult discussion, but advice is appreciated.
 

The_Four_Toed_Edward

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Another update, unfortunately not a good one.
This afternoon she had a drop of blood from her nostril, and something smells off. She hasn’t eaten, doesn’t move much and sleeps all day. I’ve got a call into the vet, I’ll talk to them more tomorrow.
I don’t feel that I should let her go on indefinitely like this. How much is she suffering? Has anyone had success turning them around from this point. Euthanasia may be the kindest option. I don’t want to give up too soon, but I also don’t want her to spend weeks slowly dying.
I know it’s a difficult discussion, but advice is appreciated.
I am not knowledgeable enough to answer this. Hopefully @zovick @Tom or @Yvonne G can weigh in.
 

Tom

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Another update, unfortunately not a good one.
This afternoon she had a drop of blood from her nostril, and something smells off. She hasn’t eaten, doesn’t move much and sleeps all day. I’ve got a call into the vet, I’ll talk to them more tomorrow.
I don’t feel that I should let her go on indefinitely like this. How much is she suffering? Has anyone had success turning them around from this point. Euthanasia may be the kindest option. I don’t want to give up too soon, but I also don’t want her to spend weeks slowly dying.
I know it’s a difficult discussion, but advice is appreciated.
Only you can make that call. They don't usually come back from this point with out some sort of major change, like moving to a more suitable climate. I used to rehab sick desert tortoises by moving them inland away from the coast. At this stage, I don't know if even that would do any good.
 

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