Have you seen these kinds of plasteron marks before? Help! (Hermann's Tortoise)

Help!

Looking for someone who has seen these marks before...

An overview of my problem:

• These are my Hermaans hatchlings, just over 4 months old. They've been really easy to care for, no issues until now....
• I first noticed these yellow marks on 7.5.26 after a soak, looking them over.
• I added updated photos from 16.05.2026 to show progression.
• Behaviour-wise they're normal. They eat really well, all continue to put on weight, scuttle about etc. and seem to be in a good routine.
• The only thing i've noticed is "itching," - ie. where they seem to rub their plasteron on a rock or the coconut coir.
• Their substrate is just coconut coir, then I have different things like pebbles etc in there for texture.. Today I'm changing it all out for a fresh lot and I'll mix it with organic top soil.
• The marks don't look like holes exactly, but sort of indented. They are soft to push in I think (I havent really tried for fear of hurting them) but in general, their plasteron isn't yet hard, so I can't tell if that is the case or not.

From my own research I've read that it might be....

• Substrate staining: so perhaps particles getting into their umbilicus, as their plasteron isn't 100% hard yet, possibly when they breathe or move, it gets in there. I did look in there today while cleaning and found a piece in the red one. None in the others though.
• A humidity issue: we have recently added a humid hide and began spritizing the enclosure to work on this But I do think it has been dry until now. They have a water dish at all times and I spritz them randomly. Now we have the hide there too.
• Normal shell growth: the itching aspect especially, but I don't know about the colour.
• Shell rot - I read it's not common in Hermaans torts and there is no redness, smell etc.

I live in a part of the world where there are no reptile vets, so I can't just go to a clinic for help. Tortoises in general are not a common pet here, but I do have a vet I can approach for medications etc. if I think I know what is causing the issue and they need something.

Have you seen this before? Have you had this occur in a hatchling? Please let me know!


HATCHLINGS/MARKS:







ENCLOSURE:

Critter-Keeper said:

Help!

Looking for someone who has seen these marks before...

An overview of my problem:

• These are my Hermaans hatchlings, just over 4 months old. They've been really easy to care for, no issues until now....
• I first noticed these yellow marks on 7.5.26 after a soak, looking them over.
• I added updated photos from 16.05.2026 to show progression.
• Behaviour-wise they're normal. They eat really well, all continue to put on weight, scuttle about etc. and seem to be in a good routine.
• The only thing i've noticed is "itching," - ie. where they seem to rub their plasteron on a rock or the coconut coir.
• Their substrate is just coconut coir, then I have different things like pebbles etc in there for texture.. Today I'm changing it all out for a fresh lot and I'll mix it with organic top soil.
• The marks don't look like holes exactly, but sort of indented. They are soft to push in I think (I havent really tried for fear of hurting them) but in general, their plasteron isn't yet hard, so I can't tell if that is the case or not.

From my own research I've read that it might be....

• Substrate staining: so perhaps particles getting into their umbilicus, as their plasteron isn't 100% hard yet, possibly when they breathe or move, it gets in there. I did look in there today while cleaning and found a piece in the red one. None in the others though.
• A humidity issue: we have recently added a humid hide and began spritizing the enclosure to work on this But I do think it has been dry until now. They have a water dish at all times and I spritz them randomly. Now we have the hide there too.
• Normal shell growth: the itching aspect especially, but I don't know about the colour.
• Shell rot - I read it's not common in Hermaans torts and there is no redness, smell etc.

I live in a part of the world where there are no reptile vets, so I can't just go to a clinic for help. Tortoises in general are not a common pet here, but I do have a vet I can approach for medications etc. if I think I know what is causing the issue and they need something.

Have you seen this before? Have you had this occur in a hatchling? Please let me know!


HATCHLINGS/MARKS:
View attachment 400300
View attachment 400301


View attachment 400302


ENCLOSURE:

View attachment 400299

Click to expand...

While it could be staining from the substrate, I don't think that is what is happening. It appears to me that some organism is invading the seams of the plastron and causing a discoloration/mild infection.

It is not the normal appearance of shell rot which is caused by fungus, but you could try using athlete's foot cream on the areas daily for a week or ten days to see the result. If that doesn't help, then I would try Neosporin which would kill bacteria rather than fungus.

If you want to experiment to save time, use athlete's foot cream on one or two tortoises and use Neosporin on the other one or two to see which is effective, then change over after making that determination and treat all three with the one which is working.

zovick said:

While it could be staining from the substrate, I don't think that is what is happening. It appears to me that some organism is invading the seams of the plastron and causing a discoloration/mild infection.

It is not the normal appearance of shell rot which is caused by fungus, but you could try using athlete's foot cream on the areas daily for a week or ten days to see the result. If that doesn't help, then I would try Neosporin which would kill bacteria rather than fungus.

If you want to experiment to save time, use athlete's foot cream on one or two tortoises and use Neosporin on the other one or two to see which is effective, then change over after making that determination and treat all three with the one which is working.

Click to expand...

Thank you! We don’t have Neosporin here in NZ so I’ll try to find a substitute. Today I changed out their substrate and used a cotton bud to clean with some very diluted chlorhexidine. I’ll get some athletes cream too just in case. They’re so young and vulnerable, I really don’t want anything getting ahold of them. I adore these little guys.

Until you get a good result from doing what Zovick said, keep them on paper towels.
No topsoil, please, it's not recommended especially for sick tortoises.
It would be helpful if you would tell us what conditions of temperature, humidity and lighting they are kept in. Diet too.
Thanks and hoping we can get this sorted out!

Critter-Keeper said:

Thank you! We don’t have Neosporin here in NZ so I’ll try to find a substitute. Today I changed out their substrate and used a cotton bud to clean with some very diluted chlorhexidine. I’ll get some athletes cream too just in case. They’re so young and vulnerable, I really don’t want anything getting ahold of them. I adore these little guys.

Click to expand...

Any triple (or double) antibiotic ointment will do.

Here is one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Natureplex-T...l-Ointment/dp/B01AVJCS18?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

This is unusual. I agree with Zovick's assessment.

Since we don't know what is causing this problem, check out this thread for a review of all the current care info, including substrate choices. Maybe you will see something that is a little off. All of your questions are welcome.

TammyJ said:

Until you get a good result from doing what Zovick said, keep them on paper towels.
No topsoil, please, it's not recommended especially for sick tortoises.
It would be helpful if you would tell us what conditions of temperature, humidity and lighting they are kept in. Diet too.
Thanks and hoping we can get this sorted out!

Click to expand...

Thanks for your help!

Diet: they’ve only ever had weeds, no fruit or veg. Mostly what we have here so: Mallow, dandelion, plantain, chickweed, clover, puha, hawksbeard, catsear.

Temperature: 50w heat emitter. (We live in New Zealand and it’s just gone to winter here) it’s around 30 degrees ground level.

Lighting: Arcadia 24w 12% UVB + a 100w basking lamp

Humidity: unsure - not measured. Area of weakness we’ve been working on. I usually spritz the enclosure multiple times a day. But I’m thinking about just buying a humidifier so it’s easier to track too.

Substrate: was told to swap out the coconut coir (as it’s too dry and can be itchy) for top soil + coconut coir mix. Could have made them itch and given bacteria a spot to accumulate.

I paper towel over top of their whole enclosure? I still have plenty of (pure) coconut coir to re-add if you think it’ll be better for them.

zovick said:

Any triple (or double) antibiotic ointment will do.

Here is one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Natureplex-T...l-Ointment/dp/B01AVJCS18?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

Click to expand...

Ah yes, it doesn’t let me order that to ship to New Zealand either. I asled ChatGPT for alternatives available here.

Bepanthen First Aid Antiseptic Cream Minor Wounds:​

This is not a triple antibiotic cream. It is an antiseptic cream, usually containing:

• chlorhexidine
• cetrimide
• dexpanthenol (skin barrier/healing support)

That means:

• no lidocaine
• no pain-numbing agents
• generally safer for reptiles than many human “pain relief” creams
• widely available in NZ pharmacies and supermarkets

For mild superficial shell lesions, many reptile keepers/vets here use chlorhexidine cleaning followed by a thin layer of something like this.


Another NZ prescription option:
Soframycin

• Active ingredient: framycetin sulfate (an aminoglycoside antibiotic related to neomycin)
• No lidocaine
• Often used for infected skin lesions/wounds
• Usually pharmacy-only or prescription depending on formulation/availability

This is probably the closest “actual antibiotic ointment” commonly encountered in NZ.


I could ask my vet to prescribe something if we have it available in NZ.

Critter-Keeper said:

Ah yes, it doesn’t let me order that to ship to New Zealand either. I asled ChatGPT for alternatives available here.

Bepanthen First Aid Antiseptic Cream Minor Wounds:​

https://www.paknsave.co.nz/shop/product/5015909_ea_000pns?name=bepanthen-first-aid-antiseptic-cream-minor-wounds&utm_source=chatgpt.com

This is not a triple antibiotic cream. It is an antiseptic cream, usually containing:

• chlorhexidine
• cetrimide
• dexpanthenol (skin barrier/healing support)

That means:

• no lidocaine
• no pain-numbing agents
• generally safer for reptiles than many human “pain relief” creams
• widely available in NZ pharmacies and supermarkets

For mild superficial shell lesions, many reptile keepers/vets here use chlorhexidine cleaning followed by a thin layer of something like this.


Another NZ prescription option:
Soframycin

• Active ingredient: framycetin sulfate (an aminoglycoside antibiotic related to neomycin)
• No lidocaine
• Often used for infected skin lesions/wounds
• Usually pharmacy-only or prescription depending on formulation/availability

This is probably the closest “actual antibiotic ointment” commonly encountered in NZ.


I could ask my vet to prescribe something if we have it available in NZ.

Click to expand...

Of those two, I would use the Soframycin.

What about Silver Sulfadiazine?

TammyJ said:

• What about Silver Sulfadiazine?

Click to expand...

Yes, I just went ahead and ordered some of this, chatgpt said it was readily available here. I'm not sure whether they'll contact me and require a script before couriering out the cream, but lets see...

"lver sulfadiazine, or fusidic acid, better than a compounded US-style “triple antibiotic ointment.”
There are a few reasons for that: Bacitracin availability is more limited in NZ. Neomycin has a relatively high allergy/contact sensitivity rate. Triple-antibiotic ointments are more of a US human medicine norm than a reptile-vet standard here. Reptile vets often prefer silver sulfadiazine because it has broader coverage and better shell/wound penetration."


They're up and out scuttling about this morning, appetite still great, so hopefully whatever it is is v early.

I also forgot to mention, after reading the intro post tips - the soil is organic stuff I traipsed around our city to find (one place sold it). It has no nasty additives, so def not the usual garden variety you can get at normal stores. They have a mixture of this soil + coconut coir atm. I feel like the coconut coir alone is too dry and scratchy. Soil is what they'd have outside/in the wild.

I have 8yo and 9yo tortoises in addition to their hatchlings, I used this stuff in their enclosures (they are outdoors). Never raised babies before.

Second night with a little dab of chlorhexidine/water and photos. I think it already looks a little less “angry” ?

Critter-Keeper said:

Yes, I just went ahead and ordered some of this, chatgpt said it was readily available here. I'm not sure whether they'll contact me and require a script before couriering out the cream, but lets see...

"lver sulfadiazine, or fusidic acid, better than a compounded US-style “triple antibiotic ointment.”
There are a few reasons for that: Bacitracin availability is more limited in NZ. Neomycin has a relatively high allergy/contact sensitivity rate. Triple-antibiotic ointments are more of a US human medicine norm than a reptile-vet standard here. Reptile vets often prefer silver sulfadiazine because it has broader coverage and better shell/wound penetration."


They're up and out scuttling about this morning, appetite still great, so hopefully whatever it is is v early.

I also forgot to mention, after reading the intro post tips - the soil is organic stuff I traipsed around our city to find (one place sold it). It has no nasty additives, so def not the usual garden variety you can get at normal stores. They have a mixture of this soil + coconut coir atm. I feel like the coconut coir alone is too dry and scratchy. Soil is what they'd have outside/in the wild.

I have 8yo and 9yo tortoises in addition to their hatchlings, I used this stuff in their enclosures (they are outdoors). Never raised babies before.

Click to expand...

No store bought soil should be used. It is made from composted yard waste and all sorts of other weird stuff to get the right properties for plant growth. Other contaminants find their way in to the mix too, like broken bits of glass, plastic, or metal screws and such. Soil is made for growing plants. The makers and sellers don't intend for small animals to be living in or on it. The "organic" moniker doesn't change any of this. Oleander and azaleas are both highly toxic to tortoises and also 100% organic.

Soil also tends to be messy, dusty when dry, and muddy when wet. Best to skip it in favor of known safe options.

Chlorhexidine, and betadine too, are meant for one time use to disinfect. Continued use kills granulation tissue, and other new cells, and prevents healing. This is why the triple antibiotic ointment was recommended.

Check out this thread on raising hatchlings:

Tom said:

No store bought soil should be used. It is made from composted yard waste and all sorts of other weird stuff to get ....

Click to expand...

I appreciate the input. However I did specifically verify the substrate before using it to ensure it was only for animal use with no additives, fertilisers, or compost included. Of course, I do understand the concern around random store-bought soils generally, hence the care taken. I also mixed with coconut coir, with the coir making up the larger proportion.

Advice can be purely anecdotal and varies enormously depending on who you ask. What one experienced keeper considers “the only correct way” is often directly contradicted by another equally experienced keeper. I always try to collect as much information on something as I can and plan from there.

Even with this issue alone, I’ve had people recommend chlorhexidine for two days, five days, ten days, not at all, and others recommending entirely different treatments. It becomes difficult to navigate with conflicting opinions presented as absolute fact. At the moment I’m trying to take a balanced and cautious approach with the resources available to me locally.

As I've noted, Tortoises are not common pets here, we do not have a knowlegable tortoise vet handy or I'd have simply gone there. Access to products and veterinary experience is far more limited than in some other countries. That complicates things further. I can assure you I have already ordered the antibiotic ointment (substitute) recommended, on the "overnight courier" for me to collect at the chemist today. There is always a delay in obtaining anything here and I've learnt we do not have any medications that consist of 2-3 antibitoics as others can access around the world. In NZ, you can get prescribed one variety (only) on purchase, the chemists require a script.

I do appreciate you taking the time to respond and share your perspective. I’m simply trying to work through the advice as carefully and responsibly as possible. Part of the reason people reach out to forums and groups of knowlegable keepers like this is to learn from others (especially those of us who are fairly isolated from other keepers locally and do not have easy access to experienced tortoise communities or specialist vets nearby)

Most people asking questions, such as myself, are genuinely trying to do the right thing for their animals. I adore these tortoises having spent so much time and care on them. So please do remember that constructive advice is far more helpful than responses that come across dismissive or overly critical, particularly in a hobby where even experienced keepers often strongly disagree with each other. I am anxious to do what I can for them.

Critter-Keeper said:

Advice can be purely anecdotal and varies enormously depending on who you ask. What one experienced keeper considers “the only correct way” is often directly contradicted by another equally experienced keeper. I always try to collect as much information on something as I can and plan from there.

Click to expand...

This is true. Ignorance abounds and is commonly found. I've yet to figure out how to tell new people who to listen to.

In time you will also learn what is good info and from whom, and what is not. Those of us that have figured this part out learned along the way. The point of this forum is to help you learn the right stuff and avoid the mistakes we all made when we were learning the hard way over the years. I wish you good luck in your journey and hope you succeed.

Please keep us updated with the treatment and results!

Have you had a chance to read this yet? It may help us all be on the same page sooner. Some of it you will already know, but some is innovative and has a proven track record of helping captive tortoises thrive.

Update 19.05.2026 (NZ):
They’re still scuttling about as normal, eating fine etc. I think the spots have dried out and seem to be healing (v early days) I’ve attached some photos below for each hatchling.

16th and 17th May:
First photo and second photo after 2x nights of Chlorhexidine.

18th and 19th May:
Third and forth photos after beginning Silver Sulfadiazine.

Gold:


White:


Red:

Update 23.05.2026:

Significantly better for all three! They’ve been on the silver treatment for 5 days so far. Definitely was the way to go. Must’ve been a bacterial infection. How long do you think we should continue the cream?