My Tortoises eyes are closed

Tater tots42

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So I am new to caring for a tortoise and I have had my red footed tortoise for almost a week and noticed that its eyes are closed all the time. When I soak the tortoise its eyes open up and stay open when being soaked,but as soon as transfer the tortoise back in its enclosure. After 5 min its eyes are closed again. I was wondering if over hydration can affect the tortoise and or could something be wrong with its eyes. ( Bought from local pet store)
 

method89

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Read the care sheet. Check your lighting and temps compared to the sheet.

Post pictures of your setup.


What type of lighting are you using?
 

zovick

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So I am new to caring for a tortoise and I have had my red footed tortoise for almost a week and noticed that its eyes are closed all the time. When I soak the tortoise its eyes open up and stay open when being soaked,but as soon as transfer the tortoise back in its enclosure. After 5 min its eyes are closed again. I was wondering if over hydration can affect the tortoise and or could something be wrong with its eyes. ( Bought from local pet store)
The eyes being closed all the time could be a sign of poor health or that its eyes are being bothered by the lighting being used. It is not from over-hydration. What type of UV bulb are you using? If it is anything other than a fluorescent tube, I would get rid of it and switch to a fluorescent tube for UV such as a Reptisun 5.0 or 10.0 UVB fluorescent tube. Since you have a Redfoot, you might be OK with the 5.0 UVB since they do not require as much UV as some of the other species.

@toddrick can possibly offer you some more ideas on how to care for your new tortoise. He has very current experience with the Redfoots and I haven't had any of that species since the 1960's.
 

Tater tots42

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The lighting I am currently using is Exo Terra Repti-Glo 5.0 Compact Fluorescent Tropical Terrarium Lamp which is a 13 watt and the substrate I am using is a Eco earth. I am also using a basking bulb which is Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot Lamp (75 watt) I will post pictures of set up tomorrow

https://www.ebay.com/c/691448553
 
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Toddrickfl1

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The lighting I am currently using is Exo Terra Repti-Glo 5.0 Compact Fluorescent Tropical Terrarium Lamp which is a 13 watt and the substrate I am using is a Eco earth. I am also using a basking bulb which is Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot Lamp (75 watt) I will post pictures of set up tomorrow

https://www.ebay.com/c/691448553
Get rid of that bulb. I personally had a problem similar to yours with one of those bulbs. I would also get rid of the spot lamp. There's really no need for it with Redfoots. They prefer it shady rather than bright. Switch both out for a tube uvb.

 

ZEROPILOT

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Your bulb most likely is the culprit.
Disconnect it.
The eyes should improve dramatically in a few weeks.
CFL UVB bulbs are well known for causing blindness.
Either use a strip florescent for UVB, or provide sunlight for a few hours a week.
Unfortunately, your basking Spot lamp, is also probably too harsh for your Redfoot.
And they generally don't bask.
They need warmth. I'd use a CHE for that. It will provide warmth without light.
And I'd use a strip florescent T5 5.0 uvb.
They provide all of the uvb you need without extra bright light.
Redfoot need temps of 80 to 86ish. Over 70% humidity and they need low to medium light.
 

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Tater tots42

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Get rid of that bulb. I personally had a problem similar to yours with one of those bulbs. I would also get rid of the spot lamp. There's really no need for it with Redfoots. They prefer it shady rather than bright. Switch both out for a tube uvb.


20200620_151633.jpg

This is my tortoises setup the lamp fixture on the left is the basking bulb and the one on the right is the uvb lighting. I am using this set up because I want to let it have as much natural sunlight as possible so this just makes it easy to carry its whole enclosure outside.
 

Tater tots42

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Your bulb most likely is the culprit.
Disconnect it.
The eyes should improve dramatically in a few weeks.
CFL UVB bulbs are well known for causing blindness.
Either use a strip florescent for UVB, or provide sunlight for a few hours a week.
Unfortunately, your basking Spot lamp, is also probably too harsh for your Redfoot.
And they generally don't bask.
They need warmth. I'd use a CHE for that. It will provide warmth without light.
And I'd use a strip florescent T5 5.0 uvb.
They provide all of the uvb you need without extra bright light.
Redfoot need temps of 80 to 86ish. Over 70% humidity and they need low to medium light.
 

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Toddrickfl1

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View attachment 297968

This is my tortoises setup the lamp fixture on the left is the basking bulb and the one on the right is the uvb lighting. I am using this set up because I want to let it have as much natural sunlight as possible so this just makes it easy to carry its whole enclosure outside.
Ya that's way too bright. With no where for your Tortoise to escape it. If you take your Tortoise outside for natural sunlight you could just use a low wattage regular light bulb inside. I would definitely ditch both those bulbs.
 

Tater tots42

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Ya that's way too bright. With no where for your Tortoise to escape it. If you take your Tortoise outside for natural sunlight you could just use a low wattage regular light bulb inside. I would definitely ditch both those bulbs.

Do you recommend using a strip florescent for UVB and a ceramic heat emitter for when the weather out side is terrible to where I can not take it outside or just go with the low wattage light bulb.
 

Tom

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You will never be able to maintain the correct conditions in an open topped enclosure like that. You need a closed chamber. Inside the closed chamber you can mount a radiant heat panel or a ceramic heating element set on a thermostat and it will easily and efficiently keep your temperature where you want it all the time. Then use the tube that everyone recommended on a timer for some daytime light.

Failure to make this change will result in a pyramided tortoise.
 

Tom

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I've been warning people not to use these bulbs for 10 years. You would not believe the insults and arguments we've had over this They called me names, made fun of me, and argued that I had no evidence since scientific studies on these bulbs and the damage they cause had not been done and published in a peer reviewed journal. I kept explaining that I'd seen case after case from my vet friends and other reptile owners, and they kept trying to dismiss me and make fun of me. Where are those A-holes now???
 

Tater tots42

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You will never be able to maintain the correct conditions in an open topped enclosure like that. You need a closed chamber. Inside the closed chamber you can mount a radiant heat panel or a ceramic heating element set on a thermostat and it will easily and efficiently keep your temperature where you want it all the time. Then use the tube that everyone recommended on a timer for some daytime light.

Failure to make this change will result in a pyramided tortoise.

Do you think that moving the lights farther away would work fine. I do not have sufficient funds to purchase new lamp fixture and uvb tube as of now.
 

Tom

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Do you think that moving the lights farther away would work fine. I do not have sufficient funds to purchase new lamp fixture and uvb tube as of now.
No. The UV bulb needs to be turned off ASAP. Like right now.

They don't need constant daily UV. You don't need artificial indoor UV at all. Just skip it. If you make a secure enclosure for your tortoise outside that is mostly shade with some dappled sun coming in, and put your tortoise out there for an hour two or three times a week, its UV need will be met. If you feed some Mazuri, Purina organic layer crumbles for chickens, and use a calcium supplement with D3 added, you will never need indoor UV.

Also, tortoise store previously made D3 in their bodies, so they can go a long time with no UV and no dietary D3 supplementation before you have an issue. At the very least we are talking about weeks, and I've seen several examples of tortoises being fine for 6 months of every year, year after year, with no UV at all. UV and D3 needs are not something to be ignored forever, but they can go long periods without it while we figure out the best UV strategy, or save up some money.

Your immediate concern should be to stop burning your tortoises eyes. Right now. You can sort out UV and D3 issues later.
 

zovick

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Do you think that moving the lights farther away would work fine. I do not have sufficient funds to purchase new lamp fixture and uvb tube as of now.
Take the UV bulb out of the fixture and just use a 40 or 60 watt regular light bulb till you can get the right UV light. Redfoot tortoises don't need a bright light as others have also told you here. They are forest dwellers and only need enough light o simulate dappled sunlight coming through the trees and hitting the forest floor. Bright light makes them less happy and less active.

Also as others have said, using a ceramic heat emitter is better for Redfoot Tortoises than a basking light since they don't normally bask.
 
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So I am new to caring for a tortoise and I have had my red footed tortoise for almost a week and noticed that its eyes are closed all the time. When I soak the tortoise its eyes open up and stay open when being soaked,but as soon as transfer the tortoise back in its enclosure. After 5 min its eyes are closed again. I was wondering if over hydration can affect the tortoise and or could something be wrong with its eyes. ( Bought from local pet store)
Soak him in baby carrot food for quick dose of vitamin A! Then work on heat , humidity, and diet
 

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