Tort Table

[Terp88]

Hi! I designed a CAD model using Autodesk Fusion Personal version and built this tort table using local hardware items. I build one about 15 years ago but since had to part with that tort and table and now I have kids of my own, it's time to introduce them into the great world of tortoise ownership! I'm happy to share the CAD files or discuss in messages with anyone interested in building a similar table.

Main Features: ​

I wanted this table to have three deck levels, each with a specific functional purpose. Total square footage is approximately 33 sq ft, but only takes up an area of 4'x6' (24 sq ft) in the house. This was designed for a smaller species such as Russian, RF, or Hermann's. I still don't have a tort yet to live here, so I'm open to suggestions of which type would be best suited before I select!

Top Deck: ~9 sq ft​

Basking/feeding which is a ~3'x3' area. This area has a ramp leading up to it and is generally a large square footprint. I used a larger 2"x2" square dowel as the main support column at the corner which is not supported by small steel brackets attached to the main walls.

I will lay down some slate tile here with rubber spacers to allow for a temperature sensor to be located underneath for monitoring/controlling the CHE and basking lamps at the main basking surface temperature. (pictures to follow soon!)

Mid Deck: ~16 sq ft​

Consists of 4'x4' area for roaming and is where the water dish will be located in the corner. I plan to scatter orchid bark throughout this area leading up to square 12"x12" soaking water dishes which are planter trays.

Sub-Deck (Burrow): ~8 sqft​

Overall area is ~2'x4'. Across the 2' length (actually it's more like 22"), there is a gradual drop down of 8" along the 14" (of 22" length) and bottoms with an additional 8" (of the 22" length) and at the flat bottom area I cut a hole in the plywood and installed a sheet aluminum panel large enough to adhere a small temperature controlled heating pad (BN-LINK Durable Reptile Heating Pad 6" X 8" with Digital Thermostat Under Tank Heater on Amazon). The controller sensor will come through the rear wall through a small hold. and will be positioned within the orchid bark near the panel. There will also be an upside down plastic tub with an entry cut out and a wifi connected temp/humidity sensor which is linked to an app on my phone. I can set min/max limits to send me alerts in case anything goes awry between my normal visits to the tort ("Smart Wireless Temperature/Humidity Sensor Wide Range for Freezer Fridge Monitoring Pet Cage/Tank Monitoring, App Alerts, Text/SMS, Email Alerts, Compatible with Alexa IFTTT, 2 Pack - Hub Included" on Amazon).

Some notes on construction materials:​

1. I generally used plywood/wood boards throughout the construction of the table main deck area and various bracket to support the corners.

2. I covered all walking surfaces and most walls with a Non-fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (NRP) wall paneling I found which had a nice textured surface. (NRP® 4' x 8' Pebbled White Plastic Interior Wall Panel at Menards). I then caulked the seams to essentially make it waterproof from anything that would make contact with the wood surfaces. I also added this to the underside of the mid deck as the moisture hide will be located underneath there.

3. For the railings, I used 1"x1" square dowels cut into railing posts and then screwed on an aluminum decorative sheet metal which I cut, rolled the edges, and painted. It has a nice leathered texture too. (SteelWorks 12" x 24" Gray Leather Grain Decorative Aluminum Sheet Metal at Menards)

4. The table support legs are galvanized steel flanges/pipes and other fittings which I attached roller casters to make moving the table around simple. The pipe matches the style of some other "industrial" furniture I have near the table and serves as a simple and extremely strong way to elevate the table. It also helps that you can get the pipes in various lengths easily to compensate for the burrow sub-deck height differential between the height of the mid deck.

Future Notes:​

I'll continue to add more edits/updates to the post as I finalize and test drive the equipment side of things and finally, yes finally, add a tortoise!! My girls have already selected a name, and I think we know which species we want, but open to input from all you experts based on what you see in this table from a square footage and features perspective!

 

[zovick]

Hi! I designed a CAD model using Autodesk Fusion Personal version and built this tort table using local hardware items. I build one about 15 years ago but since had to part with that tort and table and now I have kids of my own, it's time to introduce them into the great world of tortoise ownership! I'm happy to share the CAD files or discuss in messages with anyone interested in building a similar table.

Main Features: ​

I wanted this table to have three deck levels, each with a specific functional purpose. Total square footage is approximately 33 sq ft, but only takes up an area of 4'x6' (24 sq ft) in the house. This was designed for a smaller species such as Russian, RF, or Hermann's. I still don't have a tort yet to live here, so I'm open to suggestions of which type would be best suited before I select!

Top Deck: ~9 sq ft​

Basking/feeding which is a ~3'x3' area. This area has a ramp leading up to it and is generally a large square footprint. I used a larger 2"x2" square dowel as the main support column at the corner which is not supported by small steel brackets attached to the main walls.

I will lay down some slate tile here with rubber spacers to allow for a temperature sensor to be located underneath for monitoring/controlling the CHE and basking lamps at the main basking surface temperature. (pictures to follow soon!)

Mid Deck: ~16 sq ft​

Consists of 4'x4' area for roaming and is where the water dish will be located in the corner. I plan to scatter orchid bark throughout this area leading up to square 12"x12" soaking water dishes which are planter trays.

Sub-Deck (Burrow): ~8 sqft​

Overall area is ~2'x4'. Across the 2' length (actually it's more like 22"), there is a gradual drop down of 8" along the 14" (of 22" length) and bottoms with an additional 8" (of the 22" length) and at the flat bottom area I cut a hole in the plywood and installed a sheet aluminum panel large enough to adhere a small temperature controlled heating pad (BN-LINK Durable Reptile Heating Pad 6" X 8" with Digital Thermostat Under Tank Heater on Amazon). The controller sensor will come through the rear wall through a small hold. and will be positioned within the orchid bark near the panel. There will also be an upside down plastic tub with an entry cut out and a wifi connected temp/humidity sensor which is linked to an app on my phone. I can set min/max limits to send me alerts in case anything goes awry between my normal visits to the tort ("Smart Wireless Temperature/Humidity Sensor Wide Range for Freezer Fridge Monitoring Pet Cage/Tank Monitoring, App Alerts, Text/SMS, Email Alerts, Compatible with Alexa IFTTT, 2 Pack - Hub Included" on Amazon).

Some notes on construction materials:​

1. I generally used plywood/wood boards throughout the construction of the table main deck area and various bracket to support the corners.

2. I covered all walking surfaces and most walls with a Non-fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (NRP) wall paneling I found which had a nice textured surface. (NRP® 4' x 8' Pebbled White Plastic Interior Wall Panel at Menards). I then caulked the seams to essentially make it waterproof from anything that would make contact with the wood surfaces. I also added this to the underside of the mid deck as the moisture hide will be located underneath there.

3. For the railings, I used 1"x1" square dowels cut into railing posts and then screwed on an aluminum decorative sheet metal which I cut, rolled the edges, and painted. It has a nice leathered texture too. (SteelWorks 12" x 24" Gray Leather Grain Decorative Aluminum Sheet Metal at Menards)

4. The table support legs are galvanized steel flanges/pipes and other fittings which I attached roller casters to make moving the table around simple. The pipe matches the style of some other "industrial" furniture I have near the table and serves as a simple and extremely strong way to elevate the table. It also helps that you can get the pipes in various lengths easily to compensate for the burrow sub-deck height differential between the height of the mid deck.

Future Notes:​

I'll continue to add more edits/updates to the post as I finalize and test drive the equipment side of things and finally, yes finally, add a tortoise!! My girls have already selected a name, and I think we know which species we want, but open to input from all you experts based on what you see in this table from a square footage and features perspective!

It looks very nice and well built, but in reality you would be best off using a closed chamber rather than any open topped table like this one to raise any tortoise you may purchase.

 

[RandyTortoise]

Hi! I designed a CAD model using Autodesk Fusion Personal version and built this tort table using local hardware items. I build one about 15 years ago but since had to part with that tort and table and now I have kids of my own, it's time to introduce them into the great world of tortoise ownership! I'm happy to share the CAD files or discuss in messages with anyone interested in building a similar table.

Main Features: ​

I wanted this table to have three deck levels, each with a specific functional purpose. Total square footage is approximately 33 sq ft, but only takes up an area of 4'x6' (24 sq ft) in the house. This was designed for a smaller species such as Russian, RF, or Hermann's. I still don't have a tort yet to live here, so I'm open to suggestions of which type would be best suited before I select!

Top Deck: ~9 sq ft​

Basking/feeding which is a ~3'x3' area. This area has a ramp leading up to it and is generally a large square footprint. I used a larger 2"x2" square dowel as the main support column at the corner which is not supported by small steel brackets attached to the main walls.

I will lay down some slate tile here with rubber spacers to allow for a temperature sensor to be located underneath for monitoring/controlling the CHE and basking lamps at the main basking surface temperature. (pictures to follow soon!)

Mid Deck: ~16 sq ft​

Consists of 4'x4' area for roaming and is where the water dish will be located in the corner. I plan to scatter orchid bark throughout this area leading up to square 12"x12" soaking water dishes which are planter trays.

Sub-Deck (Burrow): ~8 sqft​

Overall area is ~2'x4'. Across the 2' length (actually it's more like 22"), there is a gradual drop down of 8" along the 14" (of 22" length) and bottoms with an additional 8" (of the 22" length) and at the flat bottom area I cut a hole in the plywood and installed a sheet aluminum panel large enough to adhere a small temperature controlled heating pad (BN-LINK Durable Reptile Heating Pad 6" X 8" with Digital Thermostat Under Tank Heater on Amazon). The controller sensor will come through the rear wall through a small hold. and will be positioned within the orchid bark near the panel. There will also be an upside down plastic tub with an entry cut out and a wifi connected temp/humidity sensor which is linked to an app on my phone. I can set min/max limits to send me alerts in case anything goes awry between my normal visits to the tort ("Smart Wireless Temperature/Humidity Sensor Wide Range for Freezer Fridge Monitoring Pet Cage/Tank Monitoring, App Alerts, Text/SMS, Email Alerts, Compatible with Alexa IFTTT, 2 Pack - Hub Included" on Amazon).

Some notes on construction materials:​

1. I generally used plywood/wood boards throughout the construction of the table main deck area and various bracket to support the corners.

2. I covered all walking surfaces and most walls with a Non-fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (NRP) wall paneling I found which had a nice textured surface. (NRP® 4' x 8' Pebbled White Plastic Interior Wall Panel at Menards). I then caulked the seams to essentially make it waterproof from anything that would make contact with the wood surfaces. I also added this to the underside of the mid deck as the moisture hide will be located underneath there.

3. For the railings, I used 1"x1" square dowels cut into railing posts and then screwed on an aluminum decorative sheet metal which I cut, rolled the edges, and painted. It has a nice leathered texture too. (SteelWorks 12" x 24" Gray Leather Grain Decorative Aluminum Sheet Metal at Menards)

4. The table support legs are galvanized steel flanges/pipes and other fittings which I attached roller casters to make moving the table around simple. The pipe matches the style of some other "industrial" furniture I have near the table and serves as a simple and extremely strong way to elevate the table. It also helps that you can get the pipes in various lengths easily to compensate for the burrow sub-deck height differential between the height of the mid deck.

Future Notes:​

I'll continue to add more edits/updates to the post as I finalize and test drive the equipment side of things and finally, yes finally, add a tortoise!! My girls have already selected a name, and I think we know which species we want, but open to input from all you experts based on what you see in this table from a square footage and features perspective!

That is a really cool design. Like a tortoise condo!

 

[Terp88]

It looks very nice and well built, but in reality you would be best off using a closed chamber rather than any open topped table like this one to raise any tortoise you may purchase.

Thanks for the feedback! I plan to monitor temperatures and humidity in multiple locations as I test it out (pre tort). I understand there’s some debate about enclosed vs open and I’ve been successful in the past with open. Regardless, I have a plan B which involves using sheet acrylic to built a hinged top if the data supports going enclosed in this specific environment.

Thank again for commenting!

 

[Anastasia 22]

The enclosure looks awesome! I would love to have it for my guys!

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

This is a nice creative build! Well done! It’s always cool seeing examples of multi story enclosures.

I would agree with @zovick in terms of housing a baby, if it’s a baby you’re wanting, I’d set up a separate closed chamber enclosure for the first two years, then move them into this once they’ve grown a bit.

There’s simply no way to maintain the humidity needed for a baby properly with an open top, unless you can figure out a way to cover this one over.

I also wouldn’t use the heat mat underneath, small tortoises need to receive heat from above always, they burrow down to thermoregulate, which can become dangerous if they’re getting closer to the heat source.

Hopefully you might be able to find some cover options in here, failing that hopefully you’ll find an idea for a temporary closed chamber

Visual inspiration

Hi guys! I’ve had some lovely messages complimenting me on my care sheets I made for all the visuals they include! That makes me so happy because as a visual learner myself, that was my goal🥰 I’ve recently had some requests for some more visual inspiration for set ups that can house babies/...

tortoiseforum.org

If you’re wanting to go straight for an adult(there’s always lots of Russians needing new homes) then this will work out fine, as it’s been a while since you’ve kept tortoises, I’ll include this link because a lot has changed over the years in terms of care

This covers correct equipment(uvb, heating bulbs, lighting etc), sizing(you can get away with smaller indoors if you can build a larger outdoor space when weather permits), appropriately maintaining the humidity, safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, and a really handy diet link to check out!

Housing adult Russian and Hermans indoors

Hello there! In this thread I’m going to include some information an example of an appropriate indoor set up for an older Herman/russian. As much as it’s encouraged to have tortoises in a safe outdoor enclosure, I understand being from the uk myself, that some climates make it difficult to...

tortoiseforum.org

Lastly, this one here is probably most important to go over and keep on hand, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying

Common keeping errors

Hello everyone! I’d been a long time lurker on this site long before joining just under a year ago now, over that time I’ve seen these husbandry issues come up time and time again, sometimes with dire consequences☹️ I thought this thread might serve as a good visual guide for these common...

tortoiseforum.org

I definitely wouldn’t put a red foot in here, any enclosure indoors for red foot’s need to be closed, they have very high humidity requirements, this would also be much too small for an adult red.

I’d go with either a herman or Russian

 

[Terp88]

This is a nice creative build! Well done! It’s always cool seeing examples of multi story enclosures.

I would agree with @zovick in terms of housing a baby, if it’s a baby you’re wanting, I’d set up a separate closed chamber enclosure for the first two years, then move them into this once they’ve grown a bit.

There’s simply no way to maintain the humidity needed for a baby properly with an open top, unless you can figure out a way to cover this one over.

I also wouldn’t use the heat mat underneath, small tortoises need to receive heat from above always, they burrow down to thermoregulate, which can become dangerous if they’re getting closer to the heat source.

Hopefully you might be able to find some cover options in here, failing that hopefully you’ll find an idea for a temporary closed chamber

Visual inspiration

Hi guys! I’ve had some lovely messages complimenting me on my care sheets I made for all the visuals they include! That makes me so happy because as a visual learner myself, that was my goal🥰 I’ve recently had some requests for some more visual inspiration for set ups that can house babies/...

tortoiseforum.org

If you’re wanting to go straight for an adult(there’s always lots of Russians needing new homes) then this will work out fine, as it’s been a while since you’ve kept tortoises, I’ll include this link because a lot has changed over the years in terms of care

This covers correct equipment(uvb, heating bulbs, lighting etc), sizing(you can get away with smaller indoors if you can build a larger outdoor space when weather permits), appropriately maintaining the humidity, safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, and a really handy diet link to check out!

Housing adult Russian and Hermans indoors

Hello there! In this thread I’m going to include some information an example of an appropriate indoor set up for an older Herman/russian. As much as it’s encouraged to have tortoises in a safe outdoor enclosure, I understand being from the uk myself, that some climates make it difficult to...

tortoiseforum.org

Lastly, this one here is probably most important to go over and keep on hand, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying

Common keeping errors

Hello everyone! I’d been a long time lurker on this site long before joining just under a year ago now, over that time I’ve seen these husbandry issues come up time and time again, sometimes with dire consequences☹️ I thought this thread might serve as a good visual guide for these common...

tortoiseforum.org

I definitely wouldn’t put a red foot in here, any enclosure indoors for red foot’s need to be closed, they have very high humidity requirements, this would also be much too small for an adult red.

I’d go with either a herman or Russian

Wow! Thanks for such thorough recommendations and references! I was thinking going straight to adult, so Russian seems to be a great option! I still might do enclosed eventually based on the feedback I’m getting here and I can definitely skip on the under heating pad, I guess it’s just an auxiliary option to have at this point, ha!

Thanks again for weighing in, I’m glad I’m getting this community to weigh in before I commit!

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Wow! Thanks for such thorough recommendations and references! I was thinking going straight to adult, so Russian seems to be a great option! I still might do enclosed eventually based on the feedback I’m getting here and I can definitely skip on the under heating pad, I guess it’s just an auxiliary option to have at this point, ha!

Thanks again for weighing in, I’m glad I’m getting this community to weigh in before I commit!

No problem at all

If you’re going with an adult Russian you should be fine leaving it open like thisthe only time it’ll come in handy being closed is if your house is particularly cold in winter and you choose not to brumate, a closed set up is definitely easier to control temperature wise.

Everything is looking good though! Look forward to seeing this all set up

 

[Tom]

Hi! I designed a CAD model using Autodesk Fusion Personal version and built this tort table using local hardware items. I build one about 15 years ago but since had to part with that tort and table and now I have kids of my own, it's time to introduce them into the great world of tortoise ownership! I'm happy to share the CAD files or discuss in messages with anyone interested in building a similar table.

Main Features: ​

I wanted this table to have three deck levels, each with a specific functional purpose. Total square footage is approximately 33 sq ft, but only takes up an area of 4'x6' (24 sq ft) in the house. This was designed for a smaller species such as Russian, RF, or Hermann's. I still don't have a tort yet to live here, so I'm open to suggestions of which type would be best suited before I select!

Top Deck: ~9 sq ft​

Basking/feeding which is a ~3'x3' area. This area has a ramp leading up to it and is generally a large square footprint. I used a larger 2"x2" square dowel as the main support column at the corner which is not supported by small steel brackets attached to the main walls.

I will lay down some slate tile here with rubber spacers to allow for a temperature sensor to be located underneath for monitoring/controlling the CHE and basking lamps at the main basking surface temperature. (pictures to follow soon!)

Mid Deck: ~16 sq ft​

Consists of 4'x4' area for roaming and is where the water dish will be located in the corner. I plan to scatter orchid bark throughout this area leading up to square 12"x12" soaking water dishes which are planter trays.

Sub-Deck (Burrow): ~8 sqft​

Overall area is ~2'x4'. Across the 2' length (actually it's more like 22"), there is a gradual drop down of 8" along the 14" (of 22" length) and bottoms with an additional 8" (of the 22" length) and at the flat bottom area I cut a hole in the plywood and installed a sheet aluminum panel large enough to adhere a small temperature controlled heating pad (BN-LINK Durable Reptile Heating Pad 6" X 8" with Digital Thermostat Under Tank Heater on Amazon). The controller sensor will come through the rear wall through a small hold. and will be positioned within the orchid bark near the panel. There will also be an upside down plastic tub with an entry cut out and a wifi connected temp/humidity sensor which is linked to an app on my phone. I can set min/max limits to send me alerts in case anything goes awry between my normal visits to the tort ("Smart Wireless Temperature/Humidity Sensor Wide Range for Freezer Fridge Monitoring Pet Cage/Tank Monitoring, App Alerts, Text/SMS, Email Alerts, Compatible with Alexa IFTTT, 2 Pack - Hub Included" on Amazon).

Some notes on construction materials:​

1. I generally used plywood/wood boards throughout the construction of the table main deck area and various bracket to support the corners.

2. I covered all walking surfaces and most walls with a Non-fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (NRP) wall paneling I found which had a nice textured surface. (NRP® 4' x 8' Pebbled White Plastic Interior Wall Panel at Menards). I then caulked the seams to essentially make it waterproof from anything that would make contact with the wood surfaces. I also added this to the underside of the mid deck as the moisture hide will be located underneath there.

3. For the railings, I used 1"x1" square dowels cut into railing posts and then screwed on an aluminum decorative sheet metal which I cut, rolled the edges, and painted. It has a nice leathered texture too. (SteelWorks 12" x 24" Gray Leather Grain Decorative Aluminum Sheet Metal at Menards)

4. The table support legs are galvanized steel flanges/pipes and other fittings which I attached roller casters to make moving the table around simple. The pipe matches the style of some other "industrial" furniture I have near the table and serves as a simple and extremely strong way to elevate the table. It also helps that you can get the pipes in various lengths easily to compensate for the burrow sub-deck height differential between the height of the mid deck.

Future Notes:​

I'll continue to add more edits/updates to the post as I finalize and test drive the equipment side of things and finally, yes finally, add a tortoise!! My girls have already selected a name, and I think we know which species we want, but open to input from all you experts based on what you see in this table from a square footage and features perspective!

Hello and welcome back to the tortoise world. Minus the heat pad, this set up would be fine for any adult temperate Testudo species. Way too small and too open for other species.

We had all the wrong info 15 years ago and much has changed. This thread is for people new to the forum, not necessarily new to tortoises. It will catch you up to speed on the most current and correct care info:

Info For New People. Please Read This First.

Hello and welcome to tortoiseforum.org! We are all glad you are here! There is no other forum like this anywhere. We have tens of thousands of members from all over the world ranging from kids with their first tortoise to people who have been breeding and keeping high end tortoises since the...

tortoiseforum.org

Questions are welcome.

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

For an adult Russian, you may need taller railing for the ramp and top deck.

 

[Terp88]

For an adult Russian, you may need taller railing for the ramp and top deck.

Thanks for that note. I did have a similar (actually lower) railing in the past with a Russian and never saw any issues but I’ll keep that in mind! Would a Hermanns be less likely to try to scale the railing?

 

[Terp88]

Hello and welcome back to the tortoise world. Minus the heat pad, this set up would be fine for any adult temperate Testudo species. Way too small and too open for other species.

We had all the wrong info 15 years ago and much has changed. This thread is for people new to the forum, not necessarily new to tortoises. It will catch you up to speed on the most current and correct care info:

Info For New People. Please Read This First.

Hello and welcome to tortoiseforum.org! We are all glad you are here! There is no other forum like this anywhere. We have tens of thousands of members from all over the world ranging from kids with their first tortoise to people who have been breeding and keeping high end tortoises since the...

tortoiseforum.org

Questions are welcome.

I read through that and the other posts on basic care for temperate tortoises! So helpful before actually buying the wrong things! I have been looking at this UV LED light on Amazon (which seems to have good reviews). I was going to get the UV 6.5 meter and do a thorough spatial mapping analysis myself unless you know if someone has already done this?

27-INCH LED UVB Light for Reptiles, LED Reptile Light Fixture Controller with Dimming and 4 UVI Modes, 22W Aluminum UVA UVB Lamp for Turtles, Snakes, and Bearded Dragons, 6500K

I know you said reptizoob has one, but I can’t seem to find the 18W one available, only the 9W, but perhaps that one is sufficient?

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

Thanks for that note. I did have a similar (actually lower) railing in the past with a Russian and never saw any issues but I’ll keep that in mind! Would a Hermanns be less likely to try to scale the railing?

I have no personal experience with Hermanns, but Russians are definitely more known escape artists.

The highest wall I have seen my Russian get over was a little under 4 inches (the tub I was soaking him in). I used to have shorter railings on my ramp, maybe about and inch, but my Russian would constantly try to climb over them just to fall down a few inches.

How steep and wide is the ramp? I made mine so wide that my Russian tortoise can comfortably do a U-turn on it.

What kind of surface are you planning on the ramp?

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

I read through that and the other posts on basic care for temperate tortoises! So helpful before actually buying the wrong things! I have been looking at this UV LED light on Amazon (which seems to have good reviews). I was going to get the UV 6.5 meter and do a thorough spatial mapping analysis myself unless you know if someone has already done this?

27-INCH LED UVB Light for Reptiles, LED Reptile Light Fixture Controller with Dimming and 4 UVI Modes, 22W Aluminum UVA UVB Lamp for Turtles, Snakes, and Bearded Dragons, 6500K

I know you said reptizoob has one, but I can’t seem to find the 18W one available, only the 9W, but perhaps that one is sufficient?

UVB wise it’s definitely best sticking with the Arcadia or zoo med t5’s, they’re hands down the most reliable, reptizoo has been known not to last as long and sometimes has unreliable output, the Arcadia is the best brand imo and should last you a few years

 

[Timthetortsmama]

Hi! I designed a CAD model using Autodesk Fusion Personal version and built this tort table using local hardware items. I build one about 15 years ago but since had to part with that tort and table and now I have kids of my own, it's time to introduce them into the great world of tortoise ownership! I'm happy to share the CAD files or discuss in messages with anyone interested in building a similar table.

Main Features: ​

I wanted this table to have three deck levels, each with a specific functional purpose. Total square footage is approximately 33 sq ft, but only takes up an area of 4'x6' (24 sq ft) in the house. This was designed for a smaller species such as Russian, RF, or Hermann's. I still don't have a tort yet to live here, so I'm open to suggestions of which type would be best suited before I select!

Top Deck: ~9 sq ft​

Basking/feeding which is a ~3'x3' area. This area has a ramp leading up to it and is generally a large square footprint. I used a larger 2"x2" square dowel as the main support column at the corner which is not supported by small steel brackets attached to the main walls.

I will lay down some slate tile here with rubber spacers to allow for a temperature sensor to be located underneath for monitoring/controlling the CHE and basking lamps at the main basking surface temperature. (pictures to follow soon!)

Mid Deck: ~16 sq ft​

Consists of 4'x4' area for roaming and is where the water dish will be located in the corner. I plan to scatter orchid bark throughout this area leading up to square 12"x12" soaking water dishes which are planter trays.

Sub-Deck (Burrow): ~8 sqft​

Overall area is ~2'x4'. Across the 2' length (actually it's more like 22"), there is a gradual drop down of 8" along the 14" (of 22" length) and bottoms with an additional 8" (of the 22" length) and at the flat bottom area I cut a hole in the plywood and installed a sheet aluminum panel large enough to adhere a small temperature controlled heating pad (BN-LINK Durable Reptile Heating Pad 6" X 8" with Digital Thermostat Under Tank Heater on Amazon). The controller sensor will come through the rear wall through a small hold. and will be positioned within the orchid bark near the panel. There will also be an upside down plastic tub with an entry cut out and a wifi connected temp/humidity sensor which is linked to an app on my phone. I can set min/max limits to send me alerts in case anything goes awry between my normal visits to the tort ("Smart Wireless Temperature/Humidity Sensor Wide Range for Freezer Fridge Monitoring Pet Cage/Tank Monitoring, App Alerts, Text/SMS, Email Alerts, Compatible with Alexa IFTTT, 2 Pack - Hub Included" on Amazon).

Some notes on construction materials:​

1. I generally used plywood/wood boards throughout the construction of the table main deck area and various bracket to support the corners.

2. I covered all walking surfaces and most walls with a Non-fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (NRP) wall paneling I found which had a nice textured surface. (NRP® 4' x 8' Pebbled White Plastic Interior Wall Panel at Menards). I then caulked the seams to essentially make it waterproof from anything that would make contact with the wood surfaces. I also added this to the underside of the mid deck as the moisture hide will be located underneath there.

3. For the railings, I used 1"x1" square dowels cut into railing posts and then screwed on an aluminum decorative sheet metal which I cut, rolled the edges, and painted. It has a nice leathered texture too. (SteelWorks 12" x 24" Gray Leather Grain Decorative Aluminum Sheet Metal at Menards)

4. The table support legs are galvanized steel flanges/pipes and other fittings which I attached roller casters to make moving the table around simple. The pipe matches the style of some other "industrial" furniture I have near the table and serves as a simple and extremely strong way to elevate the table. It also helps that you can get the pipes in various lengths easily to compensate for the burrow sub-deck height differential between the height of the mid deck.

Future Notes:​

I'll continue to add more edits/updates to the post as I finalize and test drive the equipment side of things and finally, yes finally, add a tortoise!! My girls have already selected a name, and I think we know which species we want, but open to input from all you experts based on what you see in this table from a square footage and features perspective!

Thank you for sharing this. I have been wanting to build a balcony in my enclosure and these instructions are so helpful!

 

[Terp88]

Thank you for sharing this. I have been wanting to build a balcony in my enclosure and these instructions are so helpful!

Feel free to reach out to me with questions! I can also export the dimensions of the cut pieces into a list with pictures if it helps!

 

[Terp88]

I have no personal experience with Hermanns, but Russians are definitely more known escape artists.

The highest wall I have seen my Russian get over was a little under 4 inches (the tub I was soaking him in). I used to have shorter railings on my ramp, maybe about and inch, but my Russian would constantly try to climb over them just to fall down a few inches.

How steep and wide is the ramp? I made mine so wide that my Russian tortoise can comfortably do a U-turn on it.

What kind of surface are you planning on the ramp?

Railings are 4” tall right now, so I’ll need to keep an eye if they end up needing more height! Ramp is sloped at 22 degrees and is 9” inches wide. So probably no full u turn capable for an adult.

 

[Tom]

I read through that and the other posts on basic care for temperate tortoises! So helpful before actually buying the wrong things! I have been looking at this UV LED light on Amazon (which seems to have good reviews). I was going to get the UV 6.5 meter and do a thorough spatial mapping analysis myself unless you know if someone has already done this?

27-INCH LED UVB Light for Reptiles, LED Reptile Light Fixture Controller with Dimming and 4 UVI Modes, 22W Aluminum UVA UVB Lamp for Turtles, Snakes, and Bearded Dragons, 6500K

I know you said reptizoob has one, but I can’t seem to find the 18W one available, only the 9W, but perhaps that one is sufficient?

We are finding so far that the spectrum of UVB coming out of the avaialbe LED types is too narrow. @Markw84 explains this far better than I do. I would stick with the tried and true Arcadia "ProT5 Kit" for safe, reliable, effective indoor UV. I would avoid Reptizoo products in general. Not the same as ZooMed, who does sell reliable products.

 

[Terp88]

Railings are 4” tall right now, so I’ll need to keep an eye if they end up needing more height! Ramp is sloped at 22 degrees and is 9” inches wide. So probably no full u turn capable for an adult.

We are finding so far that the spectrum of UVB coming out of the avaialbe LED types is too narrow. @Markw84 explains this far better than I do. I would stick with the tried and true Arcadia "ProT5 Kit" for safe, reliable, effective indoor UV. I would avoid Reptizoo products in general. Not the same as ZooMed, who does sell reliable products.

Thank you! I mixed up my brand names!

 

[Terp88]

Hi! I designed a CAD model using Autodesk Fusion Personal version and built this tort table using local hardware items. I build one about 15 years ago but since had to part with that tort and table and now I have kids of my own, it's time to introduce them into the great world of tortoise ownership! I'm happy to share the CAD files or discuss in messages with anyone interested in building a similar table.

Main Features: ​

I wanted this table to have three deck levels, each with a specific functional purpose. Total square footage is approximately 33 sq ft, but only takes up an area of 4'x6' (24 sq ft) in the house. This was designed for a smaller species such as Russian, RF, or Hermann's. I still don't have a tort yet to live here, so I'm open to suggestions of which type would be best suited before I select!

Top Deck: ~9 sq ft​

Basking/feeding which is a ~3'x3' area. This area has a ramp leading up to it and is generally a large square footprint. I used a larger 2"x2" square dowel as the main support column at the corner which is not supported by small steel brackets attached to the main walls.

I will lay down some slate tile here with rubber spacers to allow for a temperature sensor to be located underneath for monitoring/controlling the CHE and basking lamps at the main basking surface temperature. (pictures to follow soon!)

Mid Deck: ~16 sq ft​

Consists of 4'x4' area for roaming and is where the water dish will be located in the corner. I plan to scatter orchid bark throughout this area leading up to square 12"x12" soaking water dishes which are planter trays.

Sub-Deck (Burrow): ~8 sqft​

Overall area is ~2'x4'. Across the 2' length (actually it's more like 22"), there is a gradual drop down of 8" along the 14" (of 22" length) and bottoms with an additional 8" (of the 22" length) and at the flat bottom area I cut a hole in the plywood and installed a sheet aluminum panel large enough to adhere a small temperature controlled heating pad (BN-LINK Durable Reptile Heating Pad 6" X 8" with Digital Thermostat Under Tank Heater on Amazon). The controller sensor will come through the rear wall through a small hold. and will be positioned within the orchid bark near the panel. There will also be an upside down plastic tub with an entry cut out and a wifi connected temp/humidity sensor which is linked to an app on my phone. I can set min/max limits to send me alerts in case anything goes awry between my normal visits to the tort ("Smart Wireless Temperature/Humidity Sensor Wide Range for Freezer Fridge Monitoring Pet Cage/Tank Monitoring, App Alerts, Text/SMS, Email Alerts, Compatible with Alexa IFTTT, 2 Pack - Hub Included" on Amazon).

Some notes on construction materials:​

1. I generally used plywood/wood boards throughout the construction of the table main deck area and various bracket to support the corners.

2. I covered all walking surfaces and most walls with a Non-fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (NRP) wall paneling I found which had a nice textured surface. (NRP® 4' x 8' Pebbled White Plastic Interior Wall Panel at Menards). I then caulked the seams to essentially make it waterproof from anything that would make contact with the wood surfaces. I also added this to the underside of the mid deck as the moisture hide will be located underneath there.

3. For the railings, I used 1"x1" square dowels cut into railing posts and then screwed on an aluminum decorative sheet metal which I cut, rolled the edges, and painted. It has a nice leathered texture too. (SteelWorks 12" x 24" Gray Leather Grain Decorative Aluminum Sheet Metal at Menards)

4. The table support legs are galvanized steel flanges/pipes and other fittings which I attached roller casters to make moving the table around simple. The pipe matches the style of some other "industrial" furniture I have near the table and serves as a simple and extremely strong way to elevate the table. It also helps that you can get the pipes in various lengths easily to compensate for the burrow sub-deck height differential between the height of the mid deck.

Future Notes:​

I'll continue to add more edits/updates to the post as I finalize and test drive the equipment side of things and finally, yes finally, add a tortoise!! My girls have already selected a name, and I think we know which species we want, but open to input from all you experts based on what you see in this table from a square footage and features perspective!

I’m back with an upgrade thanks to feedback from @The_Four_Toed_Edward and others! I decided to boost the railing height by 3” all around with some polycarbonate, now total wall height is well over 6” so feeling better that a Russian wouldn’t be able to scale it! Got some simple 1/8” U channel rubber trim to “frame it”.

I also cut and laid 12x24 black porcelain tile on the upper deck and am using furniture pads for spacers underneath to allow me to thread the basking lamp power feedback sensor under the tile to the hottest spot. Next step is to order some extruded 2020 aluminum to make a light fixture gantry (I also got my Arcadia UVB). I’m planning to frame the entire enclosure with the 2020 aluminum so I can polycarbonate panel the entire enclosure for controlling climate better in the winter and will create a lift door with air cylinders to get inside.

I’ve identified a local reptile show to search for the tort in Sept, so still time to test drive this enclosure! I’ve tried looking at local adoption around Indy IN (where I am), but struggling to find that option or a breeder (open to recommendations).

Stay tuned!