Aldabra enclosures

Tom

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If you have the money, I don't think it will do harm going to the vet if you refuse unnecessary treatment. At least you will know whether or not this is a vet you would trust in an emergency.
I agree. And it would be good for them to see the tortoise and start a file. They always give you trouble if its an animal they have never seen before, but if the animal has been there once before, its magically perfectly fine to help you out.
 

TammyJ

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Don't let the vet give the tortoise any kind of injection, or in fact, any other treatment, especially without explaining what is is and why it is being prescribed. You need to act "dumb" and pretend you know nothing, and ask many questions, to see what the answers are. Usually, this is how you will know if the vet knows anything or if he or she is just using your tortoise as an opportunity to get experience....God forbid.
 

Tom

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Not in Aldabra my friend. Not a few years back anyway. Even Greg wasn't finding them as easy as he found males.
That is not because of the sex ratio at hatching. That is because people tend to keep females and re-home surplus males. Females tend to get along well in groups and it is easy to keep a whole bunch of them. For some species, you can only keep one male per enclosure, with some exceptions, but in general males are more problematic, so people are not inclined to keep them when they already have as many as they need. Females are easy to keep in larger groups and are considered much more valuable, so they are not offered for sale as much as males.

My platynota are a perfect example of this. I bought 14 incubated for "female" hatchings, and ended up with 8.6. I sold off 3 of my surplus males to other breeders that already had females and needed a male, so now I have 5.6. The thought of selling any of my females has never even occurred to me. You can find male platynota for sale regularly. Females are seldom sold unless someone is getting out of the species and selling off their whole collection of them, which almost never happens with the island giants.

I know the people Greg gets his from. They have loads of females and hatch many more every year. I now of several people here in CA that had/have herds of female Galapagos tortoises and have had trouble finding males. Years later I discovered places to get males, but the fact remains, you've seen fewer females because people don't let females go as readily. Same thing with sulcatas. Most of the re-homes we see are males, because females are easy to re-home and can live peacefully in large groups, and females are smaller and less destructive, which makes them easier to just keep.
 

wellington

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That is not because of the sex ratio at hatching. That is because people tend to keep females and re-home surplus males. Females tend to get along well in groups and it is easy to keep a whole bunch of them. For some species, you can only keep one male per enclosure, with some exceptions, but in general males are more problematic, so people are not inclined to keep them when they already have as many as they need. Females are easy to keep in larger groups and are considered much more valuable, so they are not offered for sale as much as males.

My platynota are a perfect example of this. I bought 14 incubated for "female" hatchings, and ended up with 8.6. I sold off 3 of my surplus males to other breeders that already had females and needed a male, so now I have 5.6. The thought of selling any of my females has never even occurred to me. You can find male platynota for sale regularly. Females are seldom sold unless someone is getting out of the species and selling off their whole collection of them, which almost never happens with the island giants.

I know the people Greg gets his from. They have loads of females and hatch many more every year. I now of several people here in CA that had/have herds of female Galapagos tortoises and have had trouble finding males. Years later I discovered places to get males, but the fact remains, you've seen fewer females because people don't let females go as readily. Same thing with sulcatas. Most of the re-homes we see are males, because females are easy to re-home and can live peacefully in large groups, and females are smaller and less destructive, which makes them easier to just keep.
Wow, when did you start knowing anything about Aldabras? Just a few years ago, you admittedly knew nothing about them. Lol
Whatever.
 

incognet

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Everything sounds great so far. I would not push tortoise to soak in the enclosure if it doesn't want to - Olive drinks on her own and, probably, soaks for several minutes and it's great. You can pour lukewarm water in the dish and see if she will take a longer bath.

If you are concerned about opuntia spines - you can remove them with knife. Also, cutting a pad in thin slices usually provokes them to eat it (smaller tortoises can't take a bite of older pads).
I was reluctant to handle Olive before she was fully acclimated to new habitat. Like most young Aldabras, she's rather timid. Other family members have seen her in water dish, but couldn't say how long she lingered there.

Based on feedback here, I think we're going to begin soaking her (in tub of warm h20) every other day. I'm also going to find spineless opuntia pads.
 

dd33

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Off topic in this thread but males for most tortoise species are certainly less valuable and harder to sell. This is not the case for Aldabras and Galapagos and they are a significant exception to this. Plenty of reasons for it.
1. There are probably less of them hatched due to incubation techniques.
2. They are more aggressive and more likely to flip each other and die from that.
3. They are more likely to flip or die of injury during breeding attempts.
4. Continuing on the death theme, it takes 20, probably closer to 30 years for them to get large enough to breed, and experienced enough to "catch their bus" as friend that Tom and I have likes to say. That is a long time to keep a tortoise alive for.
5. You can keep a tortoise alive for 20-30 years but if someone/somewhere along the line gave it a terrible diet or some other husbandry issue occurred you wind up with a sterile animal, or an animal that is too fat or unhealthy to breed.

So, breeding age, fertile proven males for both species are rare and unlikely to be sold. I have seen ads for Aldabras that specifically state the male is not available for sale separately.
 

Tom

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Wow, when did you start knowing anything about Aldabras? Just a few years ago, you admittedly knew nothing about them. Lol
Whatever.
I've been working with other people's Aldabras for decades Barb. I don't keep them because my climate really isn't suitable for them, but as I met and spent time with you in Chicago, I meet up with other tortoise friends around the country when the opportunity presents itself. I've met several people in Florida who deal with this species, and its a big world out there. There is a lot more to this species than the one person who posts here.

So no, I do not have first hand experience hatching and raising aldabras myself, but they are a species of interest to me, I study them, and I learn and ask questions from the people who do keep and know them. I've met people who hatch dozens of them, and I met one person whose operation and facility hatches literally 100's of them every year. Several hundred. At the time of my visit they had 676 eggs in hand, and expected to have a 1000 by the end of that laying season. I have pictures, but promised to not post them publicly, or any details about the facility or location. Prior to a few years ago, I had no idea that places like this existed. They do, and I've been to some of them now. Greg by the way, declined when I asked to come visit. I'm not mad. I totally understand. I just don't know if you understand that there are a lot of Aldabra keepers around the world, tons of them in Florida, and while Greg and his tortoises are super cool, he is not the only source of information and experience with this species.

@incognet Sorry for taking the discussion in your thread in a different direction. Suffice to say that I don't agree with Wellington's assessment that your baby is likely male. I hope this discussion about why I think that might add value to your thread. Your baby might be a male. That is possible, but I don't know of any reason to conclude that this early on. I hope you and your lovely tortoise have many happy decades together.
 

incognet

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Don't let the vet give the tortoise any kind of injection, or in fact, any other treatment, especially without explaining what is is and why it is being prescribed. You need to act "dumb" and pretend you know nothing, and ask many questions, to see what the answers are. Usually, this is how you will know if the vet knows anything or if he or she is just using your tortoise as an opportunity to get experience....God forbid.
Most definitely not... I've seen enough horror stories about "vitamin injections" on this forum! We'll ask many, many questions when the time comes.

Our herps-vet is pretty knowledgeable, but turtles/torts are not the majority of her patients. We'd have to visit state capital (Little Rock), or another metro for specialized veterinary care. I'd do this for any serious issues.
 

incognet

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Oh wow, be very careful with the vet. So many do more harm then good. They don't know much if anything about tortoises, even herp vets. Mine and many others have never seen a vet. I wouldn't let them give her anything without first researching.
Btw, you can safely assume it's a male as females are not as common as males.
Thankfully, our herps-vet didn't make any quack recommendations for my box turtle ("Sunshine"). That visit just ran especially long because she enjoyed the interaction.

My family tends to assume that our pets (even immature rescues) are female, simply because the majority have been. Not everyone understands the law of independent assortment. 🤷‍♂️
 

wellington

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Thankfully, our herps-vet didn't make any quack recommendations for my box turtle ("Sunshine"). That visit just ran especially long because she enjoyed the interaction.

My family tends to assume that our pets (even immature rescues) are female, simply because the majority have been. Not everyone understands the law of independent assortment. 🤷‍♂️
Im glad the visit went well with the boxie. If that visit went long, you can expect this one will for sure. Good luck.
 

incognet

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The vet visit is a necessary evil. The day may come when you need a vet you won't have time to figure out which one to use. Sorting it out now while the tortoise is healthy is good practice. That being said, there are few vets that know much about tortoises and a bad or inexperienced vet can do more harm than good.
We've decided to cancel Olive's appointment on Friday. I've been convinced to resume her soaks (which she had as <4.5" hatchling), and tomorrow will be the 1st day. We'll make a new appointment in a few weeks-month... whenever she adjusts to new routine. Little tort is eating & pooping like a champ, so I'd rather not do anything to jeopardize that.
 

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dd33

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We've decided to cancel Olive's appointment on Friday. I've been convinced to resume her soaks (which she had as <4.5" hatchling), and tomorrow will be the 1st day. We'll make a new appointment in a few weeks-month... whenever she adjusts to new routine. Little tort is eating & pooping like a champ, so I'd rather not do anything to jeopardize that.
I am sure you will be fine waiting. The prominent members of this forum have a tendency to be very anti-veterinarian. It comes from a good place though. Its plausible that you would be more likely to get bad advice or unnecessary treatment from a veterinarian rather than actually being helped. There are plenty of horror stories to be found in posts on this forum.

From my own personal experience, if I had not had existing relationships with some veterinarians I would have lost everything. Having your tortoise on record with a trustworthy clinic can be the difference between life and death. Not trying to scare you into rescheduling your appointment or anything. Don't be afraid of doctor shopping for a good one and don't be afraid to refuse treatment or ignore their advice.
 

incognet

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Baby sulcatas are terrified of any sort of hole in the ground or cave, presumably because what ever African animal that made the hole would like to eat them. Russians and desert tortoises, will dive into any hole or cave on day one with no hesitation. I don't know where Aldabras fall on this spectrum, but I'd guess that the same techniques would work on them. I put sulcata Babis in their humid hides after dark every night, and after a couple of weeks, they usually realize that it is "their" cave, and there are no sulcata eating monsters in there.
Olive doesn't even attempt to visit hide when something frightens her... she'll run back & forth in the habitat, even climbing over plants, but never into the Petmate shell. I may try placing her there after tomorrow's soak.

I've never had a tortoise that would eat mint. I wonder if its a different type? You need to find "spineless" opuntia pads. They are never 100% free of all spines and glochids, but the little remnants are no problem for any tortoise species of any size. I feed young pads to tiny star hatchings. If you can't find them growing near you or in any stores, you can order them online. This is a very good food for the island giants because of its lubricity. It help keep the GI tract moving along. If you aren't already doing it, it is very important to get lots of fiber into them. There are many ways to do this, but be sure you are doing it. Grazing on real grass is best, but you can add soaked horse hay pellets, chopped and soaked grass hay, ZooMed Grassland Pellets, etc... I grow grass elsewhere, hand chop it with scissors, and mix it in with greens.
Oh, that's cool... my little tort is a gourmand! But seriously, Olive absolutely loves the stuff. She's destroyed multiple plants from Soli organic. Their CS rep confirmed that plants are spearmint (safe), not peppermint (toxic).

I'll continue searching for spineless opuntia since the plants we have growing wild (and in pots) are rather spiny. The laxative effect is a definite plus. Olive does munch on the African grass mix we seeded her enclosure with, but that will eventually disappear. We're feeding her original formula Mazuri pellets (sparingly), and planned an eventual transition to Mazuri LS. Maybe we should transition sooner rather than later? I do have a pouch of Mazuri LS on-hand.

A tortoise's instincts in a foreign land will often lead to its demise. Do not trust her instincts. Manipulate the environment, and make the right things happen every step of the way. They do NOT know where is the best place to sleep, what to eat or not eat, how to avoid injury or death, etc... This concept frequently espoused about giving them "choices" is asinine and dangerous. Choices are fine if ALL the choices are good options that lead to a good outcome and work within whatever is optimal for the species. For example, letting a tortoise park outside under a bush for sleeping on a night that will be cold, instead of putting it in its heated shelter, is just stupid. They often make the wrong choice if allowed. Don't allow the tortoise to make the wrong choice.

The opportunity to self soak in a shallow dish is great. They may or may not ever make that choice. You need to be regularly and frequently soaking this baby tortoise. Its keeps them hydrated, which is critical for good health and growth, and it keeps the GI tract moving, which is not always necessary, but it is always beneficial, and it is life saving in some circumstances. Soak your tortoise for at least 30-40 minutes every day for at least a couple of weeks in a tall sided opaque tub with warm water. Keep the water warm for the entire soak, and don't worry about it if the tortoise begins walking on the "tortoise treadmill" and trying to get out. This is EXCELLENT exercise and simulation for them, and this is ESPECIALLY important for both of the Island Giant species. This should have been done upon arrival. After that two week period, you can begin skipping a day now and then, and eventually cut it to every other day for a while until the tortoise gets larger.
I'm convinced, thanks. Olive was given daily soaks until she reached 4.5" at her previous home (FL tort farm). I didn't realize there was ongoing need, especially while the humidity of her enclosure is over 90%. Hopefully this gap in soak regimen won't have any negative impacts; Olive doesn't look flaky, dry or pyramiding to me (yet). We're going to resume ~45 minute soaks tomorrow (between meal service and noon).
 

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incognet

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I agree. And it would be good for them to see the tortoise and start a file. They always give you trouble if its an animal they have never seen before, but if the animal has been there once before, its magically perfectly fine to help you out.
Physicians seem to operate by the same magical playbook. It's always fun to complete patient questionnaires during a medical emergency. We cancelled FRI appointment so Olive can adjust to daily soaks and frequent handling. I wish more vets made house-calls (à la James Herriot).
 

TammyJ

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Physicians seem to operate by the same magical playbook. It's always fun to complete patient questionnaires during a medical emergency. We cancelled FRI appointment so Olive can adjust to daily soaks and frequent handling. I wish more vets made house-calls (à la James Herriot).
Wow! Thanks for this nice memory of James Herriot! All Creatures Great and Small.
 
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