Is this fungus or shell rot?

[redt]

the whitish grey areas look a bit odd to me, I can use my nail and scrape off the grey stuff a little which concerned me. Is this shell rot or some sort of fungus?

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Hi!
If it's fungus, probably, it should be on plastron too and in greater amounts (it usually starts from prolonged contact with wet substrate).

More likely, these are stains from hard water. Clean areas with a soft bristled toothbrush and then rinse with filtered/reverse osmosis water after soaks.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Shell rot/fungal infections are usually on the plastron not the carapace, I agree with Alex that this looks like it could water staining, or to me they also look like abrasion marks, notice how they’re mainly on the high points? Does his shell scrape any of his hides? don’t suppose we could get some housing information from you? Might help us figure out what’s going on

Don’t worry if you can’t answer all these, they aren’t all relevant but it’s still nice to get the information from new members

What are your temperatures like all over day and night?
What kind of heat bulbs are being used specifically? Packaging photos are good if you have any
Do you use indoor uv? If so what kind?
How’s humidity?
What’s his substrate?
What kind of monitoring do you have measuring temp&humidity?
What’s his diet been like with you?

A photo of the full set up would be really helpful! Welcome to the forum

 

[zovick]

the whitish grey areas look a bit odd to me, I can use my nail and scrape off the grey stuff a little which concerned me. Is this shell rot or some sort of fungus?View attachment 392883

It is not shell rot or a fungus. It is mineral deposits from hard water. When the water evaporates, the minerals stay on the shell. Nothing to worry about. You can get them off with a rag or toothbrush dipped in warm vinegar or lemon juice.

 

[redt]

You guys were right, came off easily with toothbrush. The water here is very hard so this makes sense. Heat is 75-85, 65-80 humidity, here’s the enclosure. He’s doing great, just wanted to make sure it wasn’t a bigger issue.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

You guys were right, came off easily with toothbrush. The water here is very hard so this makes sense. Heat is 75-85, 65-80 humidity, here’s the enclosure. He’s doing great, just wanted to make sure it wasn’t a bigger issue.View attachment 392889

Yay that’s good! Looks a nice set upif you can aim for no where in the enclosure dropping below 80 that’d be great. 80-86 is a good range, 82-84 perfect, that’s both day and night, no need for night drops with red foots. 75 is on the cooler side for them, which could encourage hanging around under the bulbs excessively, which doesn’t help when it comes to pyramiding. Ceramics are good for red foots 24/7 heat instead of basking bulbs, maybe that’s a led light I’m seeing in the pic.

It’s normal for lower humidity readings under the bulbs, but an ambient of 80+ humidity elsewhere is ideal for red foots, a boost wouldn’t hurt here, and might hopefully help halt the pyramiding that’s happening. Looking at the condensate on your cover, I suspect it might be higher than 80, but I wonder if it’s a bit lower at tortoise level. You don’t use humidifiers or anything do you? That’s when you can run into fugal problems. How thick would you say the substrate is?

Love the plant coverage! That’s probably really helpful humidity too

 

[Tom]

You guys were right, came off easily with toothbrush. The water here is very hard so this makes sense. Heat is 75-85, 65-80 humidity, here’s the enclosure. He’s doing great, just wanted to make sure it wasn’t a bigger issue.View attachment 392889

After soaks, rinse the tortoise with demineralized water. You can use reverse osmosis water, distilled, or collected rain water. Only use demineralize water for spraying the tortoise or enclosure. Don't use it for soaking or drinking.