More questions about K. Erosa

[shelledfriends]

Hello,
I have looked at most of the previous posts here about K. Erosa and along with feedback from Jacqui I believe I have most of the info together. I do have a few specific questions and then I should be set to take good care of the two I am receiving.

1. I understand the ones I am receiving are wild caught so should I try to deworm them or given that they will be alone in their own enclosure should I just let them settle in so they don't stress out further?

2. I plan to a few inches of peat moss mixed with play sand at the bottom of the enclosure and on top of that I will pile up lots of oak leaves. Now when I mist the enclosure how warm should the water be? In the 80's or in the 70's? Also should I mist just the leaves thorougly or should I move them apart and mist the peat moss substrate as well?

3. Looking at Terry's pictures it appears the water dish should be large enough and deep enough where the tortoises can get in and sit and soak. Is this right or should it be much deeper where they can swim around?

4. Diet - It appears that mushrooms and sweet potatoes are a big hit along with some fruits like melons. I also see that they might eat night crawlers. Does anyone offer any other form of animal matter? Like fish, snails, cooked chicken etc? And what sort of leafy greens or vegetables are usually preferred. I plan to add a little bit of Mazuri tortoise diet but how about Mazuri aquatic turtle diet? Do they eat pellets from their water dish?

5. Do you use any supplements with them?

Thank you.
Michael

 

[Benjamin]

Hello,
I have looked at most of the previous posts here about K. Erosa and along with feedback from Jacqui I believe I have most of the info together. I do have a few specific questions and then I should be set to take good care of the two I am receiving.

1. I understand the ones I am receiving are wild caught so should I try to deworm them or given that they will be alone in their own enclosure should I just let them settle in so they don't stress out further?

2. I plan to a few inches of peat moss mixed with play sand at the bottom of the enclosure and on top of that I will pile up lots of oak leaves. Now when I mist the enclosure how warm should the water be? In the 80's or in the 70's? Also should I mist just the leaves thorougly or should I move them apart and mist the peat moss substrate as well?

3. Looking at Terry's pictures it appears the water dish should be large enough and deep enough where the tortoises can get in and sit and soak. Is this right or should it be much deeper where they can swim around?

4. Diet - It appears that mushrooms and sweet potatoes are a big hit along with some fruits like melons. I also see that they might eat night crawlers. Does anyone offer any other form of animal matter? Like fish, snails, cooked chicken etc? And what sort of leafy greens or vegetables are usually preferred. I plan to add a little bit of Mazuri tortoise diet but how about Mazuri aquatic turtle diet? Do they eat pellets from their water dish?

5. Do you use any supplements with them?

Thank you.
Michael

Here are my answers to your questions:
1. Let them settle in to captivity. Have a vet lined up for a checkup when you may need one.
2. Just mist the leaves, moisten the peat mix prior to adding leaves. I keep my mister bottle in my turtle room, so the water is not too hot nor too cold.
3. The water bowl needn't be overly large. Most important is that the tortoises can relax and soak and that it is easy enough to remove and clean.
4. Offer cooked chicken, fish ect. and see what they like. I have known them to eat fish and chicken, also shrimp, squid, and chopped up mice/rats. You can try aquatic turtle pellets, I use them, I soak them in water then offer mixed with their food. You may just end up fouling the water putting them in the water dish.
5. I use repcal and herptevite very sparingly a few times a month. Cuttlebone chunks are always available to them.
Best of luck, kinixys have a way of causing much distress for those that keep them.

 

[Jacqui]

Going to be lazy (lack of time really), so I am just going to add on to Benjamin's answers because I pretty much agree with him. I'll be using the blue color.

Here are my answers to your questions:
1. Let them settle in to captivity. Have a vet lined up for a checkup when you may need one. I agree, unless there is a problem, why stress them?
2. Just mist the leaves, moisten the peat mix prior to adding leaves. I keep my mister bottle in my turtle room, so the water is not too hot nor too cold. Me too, but if I need fresh water, I do go for lukewarm, just like for a soak.
3. The water bowl needn't be overly large. Most important is that the tortoises can relax and soak and that it is easy enough to remove and clean. I use one big enough for them to have their entire body in and deep enough for it to be atleast where the two shells meet.
4. Offer cooked chicken, fish ect. and see what they like. I have known them to eat fish and chicken, also shrimp, squid, and chopped up mice/rats. You can try aquatic turtle pellets, I use them, I soak them in water then offer mixed with their food. You may just end up fouling the water putting them in the water dish. Mine did not like the canned snails. Outside they may be eating the live wild ones, but I have not witnessed it. Some of mine also like the butterworms. I have not tried squid, myself on any of my tortoises. Benjamin, how well did yours like them?
5. I use repcal and herptevite very sparingly a few times a month. Cuttlebone chunks are always available to them. I also use some of the TNT every so often. When I have ones not eating or eating pure junk food like bananas, then I offer the supplements/calcium more often. Benjamin, are any of yours using the cuttlebone much?
Best of luck, kinixys have a way of causing much distress for those that keep them. They can indeed be heart breakers and very frustrating, but they also give great rewards.

 

[shelledfriends]

Awesome! Thanks for the feedback guys, much appreciated.

I definitely understand that this species can be challenging and I am going to set them up right and hope for the best. Will keep you guys informed about how it goes.

Quick question, does the Spekii do better than Erosa's in captivity or are they all just about the same?

Michael

 

[Jacqui]

I think a lot of that would depend on the animals and your set up. I myself, have bad luck with the Speki compared to the Erosa. However, the sudden death thing seems to not happen in the Bells or Speki, atleast none I have heard about.

Back to the worming stress, I want to clear something up. The stress is not just stress due to the method of giving the meds, but also the stress internally from the meds. For instance, it may cause them to stop eating, which is an early sign of possible big trouble coming. Feeding pumpkin and squash is not a true worming, but may aid in keeping levels more normal. Also, I think hngebacks have a some what undeserved reputation as having huge parasite issues. I just have not found mine having problems from too many worms. Yes, they have them, but they also seem to do fine with them. Does that make sense?

 

[shelledfriends]

It does Jacqui. I am not new to wild caught animals, three years or four years ago I received a wild caught emys emys that had been in captivity for a good few years but was still loaded with worms. Went about it like I do with any others, set it up separately and used Parazap, not sure if they sell it anymore, and after about 6 months the fecal came out clean. Took time but it was worth it. I am not a huge fan of using Panacur and Flagyl to deworm, especially if the animal seems to be doing well.

As for the Spekii, in one of your posts about the Bells you mentioned they handle higher temps than Erosa's but still not very high temps. How about the Spekii? What are the high temps they can handle? Also what is the lowest temps your Erosas have been through without any issues?

Thank you. Enjoy your Sunday.
Michael

 

[Jacqui]

To me, I think of the Bells and Spekis as one group, whose care and behavior are basically identical. Same for the Homes and Erosa. I live in Nebraska and have no AC, so what the weather is outside, is what it is pretty much inside. When the temps start getting higher, the hingebacks slow down and remain more hidden. I would say starting with low 90s and up. The Erosa and Homes tend to start slowing at the upper 80s range. Once the temps drop they become more active. I see more of the nighttime eating and activity during the hotter summer months. Makes sense since that is when the temps drop.