New, confused and frustrated

Careym13

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Hello all- My name is Carey and I have two 5 month old Leopard tortoises. I have many different types of pets, including angora rabbits and parrots, but these are my first tortoises. I got them from a reputable breeder about two months ago. They arrived healthy and have been doing very well until about two weeks ago when I noticed that their activity level decreased drastically and they would not open their eyes or eat much. This past wednesday, a week ago, I took them to a very experienced reptile vet. The smaller tortoise, Bowser, weighed in at 38 grams and was diagnosed with a more serious respiratory infection. The wheezing was quite evident in the quite of the vet's office, but was not in my home where I have parrots. The slightly larger tort, Crush, weighed in at 39 grams and was diagnosed with a less serious RI. The vet told me that the cause was low humidity and prescribed injectable baytril and fortaz to be given at a dose of .03 cc every three days for nine doses total for each tort. Also prescribed were antibiotic eye drops to be given once a day. There was no obvious discharge or bubbles coming from either tort. At the vet's suggestion, I contacted the breeder to get his thoughts and suggestions. He told me that he does not recommend baytril for any young torts and that giving any injectable antibiotics is highly stressful for babies under 50 grams. To date, each tort has had three doses of the injectable antibiotics. For the last four nights, I have been doing soaks in baby food carrots/squash with a little bird vitamins mixed in. Starting last night, Bowser, the more ill of the two, ate some aloe vera plant and wandered around his enclosure with his eyes open. He seems much better and ate again this morning. Crush now seems worse, will not eat although he does open his eyes when he walks around or is being soaked and does take an occasional drink.

The enclosure is a 32 inch long plastic bin. Prior to going to the vet, the substrate was half cypress mulch and half spag moss. I am in Virginia so the humidity has been fairly low in my house lately. I was spraying the enclosure about twice a day and the temp on the cool end was 73 and the basking area was in the low to mid 90's. The humidity in the enclosure would go up after spraying, but went down fairly quickly. I did not have a humid hide, but a half log instead. The torts stopped sleeping in the log about a month ago. After going to the vet, I switched the enclosure to all spag moss and kept it damp. However, I could not keep the ground warm enough and it felt cool to the touch. I was using a reptisun 10.0 bulb and a CHE.

After getting advice from the breeder I switched back to cypress mulch, got a plastic shoe box and cut a hole in it for a hide and put damp spag moss under just the hide. I switched the reptisun bulb for a 100w powersun. The cool end is now at 80 and the basking area is at 100. The hide has 80-90% humidity and the temp is mid 90's. I am getting a heating mat for under the hide today.

I feel guilty for changing things around so much in the enclosure, I am inclined to stop the injectable baytril and possibly the fortaz (though what if that is what helped the first tort get better) and I plan to continue the baby food soaks. I apologize for the long post but wanted to be thorough. I am in desperate need of the opinions of those of you more experienced in dealing with young leopards. Can anyone give me their thoughts/suggestions or opinions on all of this? I am determined to get both these babies healthy again and also do not want to make again whatever mistake I made in the first place that caused them to become ill.
 

Jacqui

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First off, I have been really lucky and have no real practical experience with sick tortoises, so take my thoughts for what they are worth. Stop feeling guilty for changing things around, it sounds like those were necessary changes, not just something you did for laughs and giggles. Now for the thoughts on stopping the meds, which is a tough one, especially since it seems to have helped the first one. I am not a big fan of baytril because of it's side effects. Still I think I would stick with the med program. I do want to ask, why the aloe vera for the diet?
 

Careym13

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Thanks for your response. The aloe vera is just one of the things I had been offering on a varied bases to my torts. It seemed to be one of their favorites and its one of the few plants I've had success keeping alive indoors this winter so I just decided to offer a small dish of it rather than a mixture like I usually do. Speaking of which, I left out whatI normally feed. I feed dandelion greens, watercress, opuntia pads (and once the prickly pear fruit because my grocery store had it), aloe vera on occasion as mentioned, jade, raddichio when I can find it, wheat grass and a few other different greens when I can find them fresh. I also offer pellets a couple of times a week but have not had much luck getting either tort to eat them. They always have fresh water in their enclosure.
 

Jacqui

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My thought is to feed them whatever it is they will eat, just as long as it gets them started eating again. I just don't want you to think we are ignoring you, even if my knowledge in this area is not top notch. Soon somebody with better experience (ie @Yvonne G and @tortadise ) and give you better answers. Mainly for right now I want you to relax a bit and know your doing all you can. Let's try to help ease off a bit of that frustration, which I know how bad it can be when you feel like your helpless to really help them much and seeing the one looking like it is getting worse. *hugs*
 

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Hi Carey. Sounds like you have been working really hard for your new babies. Kudos for all of the effort and good work. By the weight it sounds like they may be younger. Have you double checked the hatch date with the breeder?

The only other thing I have to add (besides a hug) is I also would finish the antibiotic. What happens is things look better but the infection is still in there at the end almost gone. If stopped early that little bit of infection (bacteria) left can come take off again, and you're back where you started or worse.

Good luck and I'm sure someone will be here soon.
 

Careym13

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Hi Mommabear- thanks very much for your reply. The breeder told me they were hatched mid august, so that is where I came up with their age estimate.
 

Jodie

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I am very glad you increased the temps. Humid and below 80F is recipe for RI. I would bump the low to 85 until they are better. Even at night. They are small for their age, but that could have a lot to do with your previous temps as well. Keep them warm and hydrated. Hoping for the best for you.
 

Tom

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Who is the breeder? There are lots of breeders considered reputable by some people that still don't start their babies right.

73 is too cold, especially with an open top and all that evaporation. This might be the cause of the RI. Baytril and Fortaz do the same thing. Fortaz is the safer, milder on the tortoise version of Baytril. Your vet is doing both at the same time? I don't agree with treating the symptoms without finding the cause first.

Which kind of 10.0 bulb were you using? The screw in cfl type or the long tube type?

The lack of growth over five months is the biggest clue here. How often did the breeder soak them? What substrate were they on?
Take a look at this: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/hatchling-failure-syndrome.23493/
 

Yvonne G

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Some leopard tortoises are allergic to Baytril. If you notice increased lethargy or seeming paralysis of the legs, go back to the vet immediately and tell him/her that you suspect an allergic reaction to the Baytril. You can even tell him where you heard this from.

OOPS...I typed the above before I finished reading your post. I see the breeder also told you not to use the Baytril.

It sounds like you're doing the best you can. Try to keep the whole habitat above 80F. You may have to cover it to keep the warm air inside.
 

wellington

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Hello and Welcome:). Good luck with your little ones and keep us updated.
 

Careym13

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Thank you everyone for all of the responses. To answer the questions from Tom-

The breeder is tortoisesupply.com of Las Vegas.

My vet prescribed both baytril and Fortaz to be administered at the same time.

The reptisun bulb was the screw in kind, it's not coiled exactly like a cfl though I guess it would be considered cfl style. It did not give off any heat.

I do not know how often they were soaked by the breeder but I will ask.

He kept them on cypress with a humid hide.

I will go read the link on hatchling failure syndrome now.

Is it possible they are just younger than what I was told? They did great up until a month ago.... I'll cover part of the enclosure to help keep the warm air in. The cool side is sitting at 82 now (it's 9:30 pm where I am), the part under the CHE at 90 and the humid hide at 83.
 

tortadise

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Well what I'd do is set them up in a 10 or 20'gallon tank. Just to make it easy to control the temps. I'd stop the Fortas and baytril. Both are general antibiotics that won't be needed to treat this, especially as small your tortoises are. Both can extremely dehydrate the animal and stress the renal system(kidneys, liver and excrement of urine). So back to hospital tank. Keep it warm and very humid. 78-83 minimum at all times. Perhaps paper towels in the tank would be best. Add a fogger or humidifier tubed I to the tank for humidity control, feed them accordingly, soak them often, and provide some. UV in this tank. Should be rid of this in 4-7 weeks with persistent routine. But keeping them warm at temps provided is key. I do agree with the "breeder" neonates are not suitable for injectable, ingest-able, or many medications if any at all. I sure hope they make a better turn for you. Hot, humid, and simple enclosure should rid this issue for you.
 

tortdad

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How low was your night time temps? You need to ditch you UVB light. That King has been known to cause eye issues and blindness in torts, switch it for a tube type or keep the PowerSun.

80 degrees should be your low day or night. The best way to control this is with a reptile thermometer. Now that they are sick bump all temps by a good 5-8 degrees. Hope they get better.
 

Careym13

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The night temps at the far end of the enclosure got down to about 73, which was what I had the heat in my house set at. The area they slept in was usually in the high 70's. The coolest part of the enclosure is at 81 now. One tort is currently sleeping in the hide which is in the mid 80's, the other is sleeping in the doorway of which is about the same temp. I have gotten rid of the reptisun and am sticking with the powersun.
 

Yvonne G

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Tortoise supply is one of our sponsors. Tom can speak to how Tyler raises his babies, but since he's a member here, I would assume he knows about the hot/humid method.

Please re-read Tortadise's response in post #13. This is the best advice for this baby.
 

Careym13

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I've got all the temps above 80 and am setting up a hospital tank. The smaller baby is doing well and eating normally. The other one is still doing poorly. I think he may be allergic to the baytril because he went downhill as soon as I started giving it to him. I read the link Tom provided, it sounds like if they have the "hatching failure syndrome" then nothing I'm doing will make a difference anyway :(
 

Yvonne G

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But don't give up. Keep trying to get these babies well.
 

Tom

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I've got all the temps above 80 and am setting up a hospital tank. The smaller baby is doing well and eating normally. The other one is still doing poorly. I think he may be allergic to the baytril because he went downhill as soon as I started giving it to him. I read the link Tom provided, it sounds like if they have the "hatching failure syndrome" then nothing I'm doing will make a difference anyway :(

Chronic dehydration as a baby does not usually lead to respiratory infection. Cold night temps is the usual culprit there. Tyler does not start them as humid, or soak as often as I do, but it would surprise me to see one of his babies failing due to dehydration as a hatchling. I suppose anything is possible, but that is not likely in my experience dealing with him.

I can only guess from afar, but I suspect cold night temps as the culprit here. Open top, damp substrate, cool house with circulating air, evaporation... It all adds up.

Careym, I would get a closed chamber of some sort and get it nice and warm. I would not let these babies drop below 85-86 at night and keep them in the low 90s all day. I don't know how you'd do that with an open top in a 73 degree house. Here are some ideas:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/closed-chambers.32333/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/my-slightly-unorthodox-sulcata-hatchling-enclosure.110178/
http://visionproducts.us/vp12wp/
 

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