Please advise (Lighting Question)

KG2025

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Hello! I am a new owner to a horsefield tortoise who is a year and a half. Please can someone advise me if I turn the heat lamp off at night? I’ve read that I should but also worried about temperature dropping too low? Last night I turned it off and it dropped to 20C ..is this okay? Thanks :)
 

COmtnLady

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Welcome to the Forum!

A year and a half is still pretty young and should have more like 22-25C temps. It should also have humidity around 83%, and the only way to hold those in the enclosure is if it has a top that seals them in. Without a roof on your enclosure the heat and humidity will just drift off into the rest of the room, which doesn't help your tortoise.

Your species of tortoise is a lot more flexible than some, but it is still very young and should be kept warm.

Is your light that you are asking about a Ceramic Heat Emitter (doesn't give off any visible light, just warmth)? If so, leave it on to maintain the heat.

Please read these two care sheets ~






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KG2025

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Hey, many thanks for your helpful response. They currently live in a tank type enclosure with the only opening being the sliding glass doors at the front..and the heated light gives off a dim light- when this is on the temp is between 32C-35C.
 

COmtnLady

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That actually sounds good to me. I think as long as it doesn't drop down below 18C it will be good, but I keep a different species that needs things warmer, so let's see what other members suggest.
These three should be on in a little while~
@The_Four_Toed_Edward @Alex and the Redfoot
@Littleredfootbigredheart


How many tortoises do you have?

Its a lot easier with pictures. Please post some pics of your set up and tortoise!
 

The_Four_Toed_Edward

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Welcome to the forum!

the heated light gives off a dim light- when this is on the temp is between 32C-35C.
Is that 32C to 35C measured directly under the lamp?

Tortoises need it completly dark at night. A CHE (ceramic heat emitter) COmtnLady mentioned is good for night heat as it doesn't produce any light.

I would put the light you currently have on a timer to be on a cycle, on during the day for 12 hours and off during the night for 12 hours. Once you get a CHE, put it on a thermostat to make sure that the coldest part of the enclosure doesn't drop below 18 c. Horsefield tortoises do benefit from a drop in temperatures for the night compared to the day.

What kind of other lighting do you have besides the heat lamp? Photos of the enclosure will help us provide better advice!
 

KG2025

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Thank you so much! This is how we received his tank two days ago. Happy to change according the the need of our little friend!
 

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The_Four_Toed_Edward

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Thank you so much! This is how we received his tank two days ago. Happy to change according the the need of our little friend!
I see two issues, first is the substrate needs changing. The three safest substrates are orchird fir bark, coco coir and cypress mulch. These substrates are safe in the higher humidity needed for a 1,5-year-old tortoise.

Second is the water dish. That dish could be fine for food if sunken into the substrate, but for water you want to be certain that the dish is easy to get in and out of. A shallow terracotta saucer is recommended for this purpose.

Also, keep an eye on the fake plant. Take it out if he tries to eat it.

How tall is the enclosure? I am asking because for shorter enclosures a T8 UVB tube is better. The one you have currently is a good brand but recommended to be installed at 40 to 60 cm in height.
 

KG2025

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I see two issues, first is the substrate needs changing. The three safest substrates are orchird fir bark, coco coir and cypress mulch. These substrates are safe in the higher humidity needed for a 1,5-year-old tortoise.

Second is the water dish. That dish could be fine for food if sunken into the substrate, but for water you want to be certain that the dish is easy to get in and out of. A shallow terracotta saucer is recommended for this purpose.

Also, keep an eye on the fake plant. Take it out if he tries to eat it.

How tall is the enclosure? I am asking because for shorter enclosures a T8 UVB tube is better. The one you have currently is a good brand but recommended to be installed at 40 to 60 cm in height.
Hey, it is 18 inches tall. Would you recommend a real plant? I’ve looked online and it says spider plants are best? Thanks again for your helpful advice.
 

The_Four_Toed_Edward

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Hey, it is 18 inches tall. Would you recommend a real plant? I’ve looked online and it says spider plants are best? Thanks again for your helpful advice.
With real plants there are a few things to consider: fertilizers, pesticides and the possibility of the plant getting trampled or eaten. Someone else can advise you on all these points for sure.

I have no experience with them personally but spider plants are a good choice.
 

Yvonne G

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I would like to see a picture of the tortoise. The glimpse I see of him in the corner of the new enclosure makes it look like he's older than you thought.
 

KG2025

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I would like to see a picture of the tortoise. The glimpse I see of him in the corner of the new enclosure makes it look like he's older than you thought.
 

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Littleredfootbigredheart

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Hello! Some great advice above, I’ll also add it’d be a good idea to switch that analog gauge out for a digital monitor and you want it at tortoise level, it’s currently too high to get accurate ground readings.

I can see why Yvonne wanted more pics, he’s potentially on the younger side when looking at the close ups, I don’t think he has much growing left to do though.

This thread covers correct equipment(uvb, heating bulbs, lighting etc), correct levels, importance of a closed chamber for younger tortoises(only way to maintain the humidity you need), appropriately maintaining the humidity, safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, and a really handy diet link to check out! If going with a greenhouse, the lower the ceiling height, whilst still allowing for recommended bulb height, the better! But you already have the perfect closed chamber option, I’d maybe give him another 6-12months in this set up to see if any further growth can smooth out a bit😊

This includes lots of inspiration for an adult set up both indoors and out for when he’s ready! The indoor bit has some good ideas to tackle indoor space whilst still providing the needed roaming room! Check comments too, I’m always adding to it. I know the recommended adult size is intimidating to some, especially if you’ve been lead into thinking he’ll be fine in a smaller set up(very common) but tortoises long term health really does rely on lots of roaming room. If you’re unable to go that big, go as big as you can

Lastly, this one here is probably most important to go over and keep on hand, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying😊

Hope they help! I’d make first port of call the substrate and then look into a CHE(but only if it’s needed) that’ll need running on a thermostat, Welcome to the forum🐢💚
 

KG2025

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Can I just say thank you so much for all your really helpful, informative advice! I’m a little nervous ensuring I have the perfect set up but I’m sure we’ll get there very soon :) Thanks again!
 

KG2025

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Hello! Some great advice above, I’ll also add it’d be a good idea to switch that analog gauge out for a digital monitor and you want it at tortoise level, it’s currently too high to get accurate ground readings.

I can see why Yvonne wanted more pics, he’s potentially on the younger side when looking at the close ups, I don’t think he has much growing left to do though.

This thread covers correct equipment(uvb, heating bulbs, lighting etc), correct levels, importance of a closed chamber for younger tortoises(only way to maintain the humidity you need), appropriately maintaining the humidity, safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, and a really handy diet link to check out! If going with a greenhouse, the lower the ceiling height, whilst still allowing for recommended bulb height, the better! But you already have the perfect closed chamber option, I’d maybe give him another 6-12months in this set up to see if any further growth can smooth out a bit😊

This includes lots of inspiration for an adult set up both indoors and out for when he’s ready! The indoor bit has some good ideas to tackle indoor space whilst still providing the needed roaming room! Check comments too, I’m always adding to it. I know the recommended adult size is intimidating to some, especially if you’ve been lead into thinking he’ll be fine in a smaller set up(very common) but tortoises long term health really does rely on lots of roaming room. If you’re unable to go that big, go as big as you can

Lastly, this one here is probably most important to go over and keep on hand, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying😊

Hope they help! I’d make first port of call the substrate and then look into a CHE(but only if it’s needed) that’ll need running on a thermostat, Welcome to the forum🐢💚
Sorry, me again! Please see photo - would I be able to put a heat emitter without light into this socket instead of this light? As I’ve been told he needs darkness but still heat so I need to change it asap
 

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Littleredfootbigredheart

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Sorry, me again! Please see photo - would I be able to put a heat emitter without light into this socket instead of this light? As I’ve been told he needs darkness but still heat so I need to change it asap
You should be able to yeah, But check your night temperatures first, you might not need the ceramic, I’d check with digital monitors before getting one😊
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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Sorry, me again! Please see photo - would I be able to put a heat emitter without light into this socket instead of this light? As I’ve been told he needs darkness but still heat so I need to change it asap
Hello!
I would advise against reusing the same socket for daytime heat lamp and ceramic heater at night. It's pretty easy to break the heat lamp or get burns.
Another thing that ambient heat source (ceramic heater) should be on a thermostat but a heat lamp - basically, shouldn't.

Instead of doing daily swaps of heat sources it would be better to install another socket, like the one you have, set up the thermostat and don't worry about nighttime temperature anymore.

For younger Russian tortoises in a vivarium with higher humidity you may want to keep temperature around 22-23C. Adult tortoises usually do fine in an open table and room temperatures and humidity.

What UVB lamp do you use, Forest 6% or Desert 12%?

What's the vivarium size? It looks like it's on the smaller side. Is it 90cm (3ft.) long?
 

KG2025

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Hey, thanks for your message! The previous owner actually gave me the boxes of all current equipment - would you mind if I sent you the pics of exactly what I’m using? Sorry just to be clear, the long light at the top I’ll keep on during the day and turn off at night and I’ve ordered a heat emitter to replace the lamp I currently have but I’ll need to order a digital thermostat to go with it? Finding everything a little overwhelming not going to lie - I think because it’s all new to me I’m trying to make sure I understand everything, lol! Once I’m in the swing of things I’ll be ok. Yes, it’s a 3ft tank at the moment. The previous owner also told me that they don’t hibernate? We have a huge grassy garden that I’m hoping they can use in summer to roam safely but I’m a little confused on mixed messages about hibernation, too! Soo much to take in but soo worth it, haha!
 

Tom

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Hey, thanks for your message! The previous owner actually gave me the boxes of all current equipment - would you mind if I sent you the pics of exactly what I’m using? Sorry just to be clear, the long light at the top I’ll keep on during the day and turn off at night and I’ve ordered a heat emitter to replace the lamp I currently have but I’ll need to order a digital thermostat to go with it? Finding everything a little overwhelming not going to lie - I think because it’s all new to me I’m trying to make sure I understand everything, lol! Once I’m in the swing of things I’ll be ok. Yes, it’s a 3ft tank at the moment. The previous owner also told me that they don’t hibernate? We have a huge grassy garden that I’m hoping they can use in summer to roam safely but I’m a little confused on mixed messages about hibernation, too! Soo much to take in but soo worth it, haha!
Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
More here:

 

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