tortoise not eating...

[Kristina]

Hello and welcome to the forum!

I did PM the link to my caresheet, located in the articles section - http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-The-Home-s-Hingeback-Tortoise#axzz1SrfVfSeM

I agree with the things said above. Very damp substrate, no light or heat needed this time of year, and no handling. It helps to place food in or very close to the hide. New imports are attracted to red food items, and portabella mushrooms are a favorite.

Make sure to have a water dish that is big enough for them to get all the way into, and then soaking will be unnecessary, which will cut down on the handling.

 

[SirSkinksAlot]

Ok thank you very much. Ill try the things you said. Ill keep you updated if you'd like.

Thanks
Tanner

 

[egyptiandan]

Does your basement have large windows Tanner? If not, than I would go with say a 4 foot shop light with low lumen (the amount of light the bulb produces) bulbs. Place the light up high and about 6 to 8 feet away from the enclosure. This will give them just enough light to see, but not so much that it would stress them and make them hide all the time.
Like Jacui said the 60's is a bit to cool, so try to shoot for low to high 70's with your ceramic heat emitter. Also place it in the middle of the enclosure as this will warm the whole enclosure and not just a side. Also if the basement is that cool, I'd keep the heat emitter on all the time.

Danny

 

[SirSkinksAlot]

I don't have a shop light so ill keep the CHE on all the time. Could I us a black light or red light?

 

[egyptiandan]

Are there any lights in your basement?

Danny

 

[Yvonne G]

The shop light and the CHE both serve a different purpose. Danny was saying because of being in the basement, maybe its too dark for them, so add a shop light (which doesn't heat, only lights). The CHE heats without light.

 

[SirSkinksAlot]

My basement doesn't have any windows but it has fluresant lights. I figured they'd be a bit to bright so I have my tortoises in te unfinished part where the lights are never on.

 

[Tortoise]

HI and welcome to the forum

I am learning with this species too, I have 2 male bells Hinge Backs and I have made a few observations recently as they settle in.
They were captive bred though so perhaps settled quicker due to that?
They are approx 5 and a half yrs old.

They initially pooped as a stress response when I soaked them, that seems to be better now and I soak them once a week.

They did eat right off the start and they love watermelon in particular.
I have so far seen them eat dandelion, lettuce, mushrooms, mango, strawberries(really like strawberry)I offered cacti but not seen them take any yet. Oh they eat worms and super worms too-and a few times from my fingers but I got nipped and shocked as they moved so fast for the worm in my fingers!!!
They seem to eat outside too-clover, dandelion in particular.

I have a large plastic tub for the time being and use a 100 watt heat emitter when I need to as its hotter in the days now.
they like using their hide and outside take to the shade and occasionally bask until warmed and then to the shade again.
One is more shy than the other and takes longer to get used to anything.
They breed one another daily although they are boys!

I think tortoises like the colour red too, I think I remember reading about experiments with same foods in different lights etc and they tend to be attracted to red.I am going to try tinned salmon soon too.

Well I am wishing you lots of enjoyment with your new tortoises and hope they get eating soon for you

 

[egyptiandan]

Than if the light closest to them is on, that should be enough indirect light to have them feel comfortable.

Danny

 

[Tortoise]

Hi! Sorry for the delay, I haven't had computer usage for a bit.

First off welcome to the great world of tortoises and even better one of hingebacks. I live in Nebraska, so sorta in the same general area.

Just give me a few minutes to read back over your questions and most more for you, ok?

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Hey everyone, I'm new to these forums because Saturday I bought a male and a female home's hing back tortoises. (at least that's what the lady said) They both seem to be healthy, they both feel heavy and solid and don't have bubbles coming from their eyes or noses.

Welcome Tanner! If you post pictures down the road we can perhaps help you make sure they are a pair, most likely the Homes ID will be correct. They sound good so far! Are they your first ever tortoises? Figure you may have skinks?

The reason I'm posting this is because I'm just wondering when they should start eating. I know they are very stressed right about now. The female did eat some strawberry.

Good she did eat something! These guys can be at time hard to get eating, so be prepared to celebrate small steps. However, maybe you will get lucky and yours will quickly start eating. a lot depends on how much stress they have had along the way and another biggie to me is how well kept they have been since captivity (such as high humidity and ability to soak).

First off, make sure you have them in a quieter location in your home while they are adjusting. Place their feed dish right outside their hide for them to feel even more secure. These guys tend to be more active and eat better in the early morning and later evening hours. Spraying them down (and the enclosure) just before feeding can help. If soaking them doesn't bother them too much, you could soak them first too. That's kinda a judgement call, which I would base a lot on if they are using their water dish on their own right now.

They tend to prefer low light, like you would naturally have in your home. Shop lights with the bright kitchen light bulbs are what I mainly use, when and if I feel they need them. Usually they get by without added lights.

Start with offering them the most common normal favorite foods: mushrooms, worms, cooked sweet potato, muskmelon, and papaya. They tend to like their fruit ripe, so keep that in mind. A little banana is okay, but be sure not to let them get hooked on it. Certainly also wont hurt to try some baby foods, once more the ones like sweet potato and carrots. Bright reds, oranges, and yellow foods tend to catch their eye better.

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Thanks for the replies. I can post pics but I'm positive they are home's. I live in north eastern kansas. And I have piles of leaves, I do have a basking spot light that gets to about 85. I have uvb/uva and a hide for them. I will try worms. I have a black light I put on them at night. Should I keep that on them all the time? And do I need uvb/uva? And btw I have I have kept turtles/tortoises before so I'm not a complete noob at this I just haven't been able to find a complete care sheet.

the leaves will be a nice addition for them! I keep no loghts on mine at night. You might want two hides in there, as they do use them a lot. You may even want to put those leaves into one of them. You could no doubt go without the UV. Is it a high wattage? If not, you could still use it one on end. Some of them do actually enjoy basking a little, but the key is to keep the overall level of light down. Pretty much what we have naturally in our homes (if the curtains are kept open) tends to work well for them. Good you have had tortoises before, what kind(s)? Redfoot maybe? They are fairly close to them in needs.

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Ok ill try to make it wet and humid but if there's no basking spot what sould I do for heat? A ceramic heat emitter? I just put a night crawler in there for them. They don't seem to be interested yet but ill give them some time. Also what should their diet be? More vegies less meat or more meat less vegies?

IF your temps are too low, then yes, a ceramic heat emitter works well. Often depending on your house's temps, you may need little or no outside heating especially this time of year.

I would always offer them some greens, but it often not something they tend to like to eat. I believe I recall seeing Danny gave you what would be an idea percentage amount to strive for. Right now, until they are eating good, the most important thing is getting them to eat and not worry about balancing the diet at all.

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I have a large water dish that they can easily get in and out of. its about mid 60's in my basement (where I'm kepping them) that's not to cool is it? Ill keep up with offering food. Ill work on getting another hide so they both have one.

Good, the water dish is one of the most important things for them to have. You will find they naturally go there often and soak for a considerable amount of time each day. So it needs to be deep enough to allow them to soak well along with easy in and out.

60s in a bit on the cool side. If you use your CHE (ceramic heat emitter) what temp does it get it up to? Once more use this on one end, not in the middle.

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I forgot to mention, when I gave my male a bath he defecated and it looked slimey or like mucus with green in the center. What could this be?

It could be caused from stress and his diet. It also could likely be from parasites, but I would want to get my hingebacks eating and accumulated a bit before stressing them with worming meds, if possible. It would be a good idea in the near future to have a stool check done by your Vet.

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I dd look at the link but that wasn't answering my questions. I'm only trying to provide the best care possible for them and if that means not handling them then I would like someone to tell me but not like the way you told me.

Nerd is correct, with hingebacks especially, handling them may cause more stress. I am sure tho you are keeping handling down to the basics, such as when you soaked them (if you even need to soak them).

Tanner keep in mind you haven't had them for long and they have been thru a lot. Give them time to relax. The female is eating which is a very important step, eating more and a wider variety will come. The male is just being a bit slower. Just keep trying.

If he still isn't eating in another week or two (you did said they are good weight, right?), then start using the babyfood in the soaking water.

Tanner we all want these guys to do well for you and we are all trying to help each in our own way. Be patient with us and with your tortoises.

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Jacqui do you have the German article on the hinges available-I'm not sure how to copy and paste it.
Its an interesting read in addition to the other care sheets etc .

 

[Redfoot NERD]

During 'winter' months my K. erosa are breeding and laying eggs INSIDE with no lights OVER their table. The only light they receive is from the lights given off over the redfoot tables and those are only 2' flor. AND below the walls of the erosa table.

The thread link shown earlier was from outside while it was raining and mid-60's F -- they were out moving around and eating mushrooms. Kristina and I have spoken on the phone while this occured with her K. homeona's a few weeks ago.. same basic temps.

Outside [ now 7/22/11 ] they are in the shade of the rose-of-sharon.. 5:30p CDT.. shadows starting.. flash went off to take these pics.. a late-day cool summer rain came just as I was going out -

Thermo on top of the 4' fence.. barely 80F.. no doubt a few degrees cooler ground-level. When it gets much warmer they are in the hide -- they do prefer "cooler" temps... peculiar African "swamp-forest" tortoises.. huh?

About 3' off the ground.. they seem to like this spot - must be the exact sun/shade combo they like the best -

Overhead maybe 7' off ground showing toward the top of the rose-of-sharon in their enclosure -

They have at least 15' of area where 5 shrubs are growing - where they stay in the 'dappling' sun/shade.. almost always all of the time.

About 8P I'll throw down some cut-up mushrooms thru-out.. and when I go back out around 10P [ with my flashlight ] I'll see them munching away!

Tanner get your parameters in balance.. provide their needs and stand back where they can't see you and you will see "life" in them as you watch them eat! Be patient.

Do keep us posted...

NERD

By the time I got all this posted there have been more posts [ haven't read yet ].. will read now.

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Louise from what I understand the "Bells" are somewhat different from the 'homes/erosa' - different environment almost entirely from what I've heard - once again we have to be "species-specific" with our care!

Thanks for the info.

NERD

 

[SirSkinksAlot]

Ok thanks. Ill do my best. And I think we kinda got off on the wrong foot. I'm just trying to get as much info as I can.

Thanks,
Tanner

 

[Tortoise]

During 'winter' months my K. erosa are breeding and laying eggs INSIDE with no lights OVER their table. The only light they receive is from the lights given off over the redfoot tables and those are only 2' flor. AND below the walls of the erosa table.

The thread link shown earlier was from outside while it was raining and mid-60's F -- they were out moving around and eating mushrooms. Kristina and I have spoken on the phone while this occured with her K. homeona's a few weeks ago.. same basic temps.

Outside [ now 7/22/11 ] they are in the shade of the rose-of-sharon.. 5:30p CDT.. shadows starting.. flash went off to take these pics.. a late-day cool summer rain came just as I was going out -

Thermo on top of the 4' fence.. barely 80F.. no doubt a few degrees cooler ground-level. When it gets much warmer they are in the hide -- they do prefer "cooler" temps... peculiar African "swamp-forest" tortoises.. huh?

About 3' off the ground.. they seem to like this spot - must be the exact sun/shade combo they like the best -

Overhead maybe 7' off ground showing toward the top of the rose-of-sharon in their enclosure -

They have at least 15' of area where 5 shrubs are growing - where they stay in the 'dappling' sun/shade.. almost always all of the time.

About 8P I'll throw down some cut-up mushrooms thru-out.. and when I go back out around 10P [ with my flashlight ] I'll see them munching away!

Tanner get your parameters in balance.. provide their needs and stand back where they can't see you and you will see "life" in them as you watch them eat! Be patient.

Do keep us posted...

NERD

By the time I got all this posted there have been more posts [ haven't read yet ].. will read now.

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Louise from what I understand the "Bells" are somewhat different from the 'homes/erosa' - different environment almost entirely from what I've heard - once again we have to be "species-specific" with our care!

Thanks for the info.

NERD

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Yes Thanks Terry
Yes I'm forgetting your guys need more humidity but I think that's the main difference right? Jacqui has an article on all the kinixys(from a German publication) and its really interesting-just don't know how to move a pdf file from one place to another?

Thanks Terry-I love to see your photos!
I still keep my boys humid indoors-moist substrate always have water bowl to sit in etc?

 

[jeffryslater]

Hi..
Hinge back tortoises are omnivorous and primarily insectivorous. They eat both plant and animal material. But mostly or majority of them eat insects. Most commonly they eat fruit, plants, grass, slugs etc.

If you need any further help regarding there behavior, health or any kind of information. rply me i will give you all the details..


Thank you.

 

[SirSkinksAlot]

Ok, today I tried a little cherry. The female did eat some I believe and I haven't seen the male eat any yet. I don't think the male has eaten at all, he may have though. I hope cherry is alright, I'm just trying to figure out what they like. Also, the female barfed what looked likea clear mucus. Any ideas what this could be? Btw the female seems to be coming around she's moving around the cage a lot (mostly between the hide and the water bowl) the male still needs some work but I love watching them.

Thanks,
Tanner

 

[Tortoise]

I would think cherry is ok-anything really at this point just to get them going and then you can work on the most ideal foods etc when they are settled.
I hope you see the male eat soon-its very worrying isn;t it until you notice them eating well.

Did you try mushroom yet?
How about worms?, I tried my Bells on a bit of canned salmon today one really went mad for it and the other picked but maybe some smelly food would help. Do you think they are seeing ok?
Do they look as though they notice movement and act accordingly?(disappearing into shell for protection?)
Just wondering about their eye sight and whether they are seeing normally?

Best of luck with the feeding Tanner

 

[Jacqui]

Tanner might help to show us all what you have tried. Also keep trying the more favorite items like mushrooms, cooked sweet potatoes, papaya, and muskmelon. Try some ripe banana, just don't let them get fixated on it, if they do start eating it. Also won't hurt to try a little mazuri, if you have any around .
What is your current temp situation? Do you spray them? Feeding early am and late evening? Feeding near a hide? Keeping their area quiet?

 

[SirSkinksAlot]

The temp is high 70's low 80's. Their eye sight seems to be great. When I walk into the room they go into their shell. I have tried worms, no luck. So, I've tried greens, like spinach, I've tried strawberries (the female ate that), banana, black berrie and cherry, and worms. I try and get some mushrooms for them. And yes it does worry me. Can't wait until they will eat no problem.

Thanks,
Tanner

 

[Redfoot NERD]

DO THIS - GET MUSHROOMS AND THROW THEM IN AT RANDOM - Make sure they have water.. close the door to the room they are in and leave them alone for at least 2 days! .. have NO light directly within their sight....... and leave them alone.

THEY WILL NOT STARVE THEMSELVES! You've tried everything else and it hasn't worked. I doubt seriously if it has anything to do with choice of food offered. Sometimes we try too much to make it 'work' that we make it worse!

Your hingebacks [ and most everyone elses hingebacks that are slow to eat ] are too stressed to want to eat.. I guarantee it!

There are only 2 things that stress them so they won't eat= loaded with "bugs" to the point that their system can't do anything but try to deal with the 'bugs'.. which is usually caused by stress AND/OR they are stressed from too much "activety/handling" which also puts an overload on their system.. which stresses them.

Two years ago I received a group of hingebacks.. erosa and homeona/homes at two different times. I placed them into their enclosure and made water available and had no direct lights on them. I offered them mushrooms. I did not touch them for two days. I looked in on them on day 3 and moved the ones out of the hide in front of their food and left them alone until the next day. That is the extent of the handling they ever received.

Too much handling and lights are the main things that most everyone new to 'hingebacks' does wrong.

I no longer have the homes.. I re-homed them when I had the opportunity to acquire the erosa. You can see the erosa here - http://www.turtletary.com/hingeback.htm Any questions you are welcome to call.

Terry

 

[SirSkinksAlot]

Okay, thank you. What tpe of mushrooms should I buy. Any that they have at the grocery store?

Thanks,
Tanner