Eye problem?

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Has anyone seen these eye symptoms before? Here is a photo of his underside and where he sits in his hide unless he is fully inside. He doesn't really like to hang out in the cooler side with the cork wood hide and leaves ever except to eat because that is where I place his food.

Yes, it's like "cherry eye" in cats and dogs.

Here is the similar case:

Turtle has swallen red spot near eye

My red-eared slider has some red spot near left eye. It has this spot around month. During this period nothing has changed, but I'm worrying about some potential troubles. Has someone dealt with similar case? Any help appreciates

tortoiseforum.org

I suspect you'll need a vet prescription to get the drops. Adjust nighttime temperature first and see if it helps in a 3-4 days.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

sorry here are the photos

No fungus, all clear.

 

[Bran]

Okay Thanks I will try keeping a steady temp in the mid 80s through the night and if things don't change I will go the veterinary and drops route. It's weird I have scoured the internet and have not seen another photo of a tortoise with the same problem. Thanks for all your help everyone. I will let you know how things turn out.

 

[Tom]

Okay Thanks I will try keeping a steady temp in the mid 80s through the night and if things don't change I will go the veterinary and drops route. It's weird I have scoured the internet and have not seen another photo of a tortoise with the same problem. Thanks for all your help everyone. I will let you know how things turn out.

Too cold at night can make any tortoise sick. When I say too cold, I mean too cold for that species. So a Russian tort is fine in the 40 or 50s as long as it can warm up each day. Your RF needs it over 80 at night. Eye problems are sometimes the first indication of oncoming sickness.

One or two CHEs may solve the temperature problem, but they will also dry everything out to some degree. You really need a closed chamber with all the heating and lighting inside for a RF. Once you have that type of enclosure, temperature maintenance with a CHE on a thermostat is easy, and all the heat and humidity is contained instead of escaping out the top.

 

[COmtnLady]

Good advice above.

In entry #9, where you are showing the top of your enclosure - it looks as though you have the T5 tube lamp sitting on top of the mesh top. if that is the case, the mesh blocks some of the UVB, so it is difficult to be sure what your tort has available to him. It really needs to have a clear shot at the interior. (And only needs to be on four hours a day.)
Then - the bell-housings - even though you have the larger part of the open top closed with foil, those little space around the edges of the bell-housing will lose a lot of heat and humidity. Heat rises and sort of rushes through those small spaces into the outer room. Duct tape is called "duct" because it was created to seal up heating ducts. Duct tape is your friend! Duct tape fixes everything! Seal the edges of foil and bell-housing, and every other opening with duct tape so that nothing leaks. Seriously, seal it up tight.
(Don't worry about ventilation. Each inhale-exhale cycle of your baby is decidedly under a cubic inch of air, CO2, and such. The enclosure has multiple cubic feet of air. Every time you open the enclosure to put in water or food, to take your tortoise out, or clean, or even just look in and say "Hi", causes a big influx of fresh air. Don't worry about ventilation - seal the enclosure tightly. When you first do seal it well, keep an eye on temps and humidity for a couple days. You will be surprised how much difference closing those small spaces will bring.)

I keep my RF's enclosure 84F/29C and 84% humidity, 24/7/365. RF need it like that. As said above, letting it get too cold, especially for a baby, causes stress and could be the cause of the third eyelid puffing up. Ditto on the spotlight possibly being too bright for the youngster's eyes. That bulb-space would be better used with another CHE.